Hi Gang
I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
extreme.
Cheers
Joe
Tom wrote:
> 1) The sealant should not need to set overnight to work.
> 2) HD's black pipe is just fine. 3) Apply enough
> torque necessary to achieve a seal.
> Just gonna have to tear back to the failed joints, re-apply thread sealant, and
> maybe cap off just after to pressure check before piping any further. I feel
> your pain...Tom
> Joe wrote:>Hi Gang
>
>>I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
>>fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
>>two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
>>and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
>>
>>1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
>>sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
>>
>>2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
>>made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
>>
>>3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
>>pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
>>
>>Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
>>have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
>>extreme.
>>
>>Cheers
>>Joe
>
>
> Someday, it'll all be over....
You should use rector seal #9 for the sealing compound, depending on the
pipe (say up to 1") size you are using you should be able to tighten the
threads 3 to 4 turns for a hand tight fit, if less than 3 turns your
threads wont seal! if more than 4 to 5 turns the pipe will screw in too
far and possibly bottom out and not seal depending on the type of
fitting it is going into. You should use sharp pipe dies to cut the
threads if they are not sharp the threads will not be sharp and true you
must use an ample amount of cutting oil when cutting the threads. You
should only use pipe couplings that are steel with a designated as taper
tap/ most couplings sold in hardware stores have straight pipe threads
and don't seal as easy and taper tap couplings
1) The sealant should not need to set overnight to work.
2) HD's black pipe is just fine. 3) Apply enough
torque necessary to achieve a seal.
Just gonna have to tear back to the failed joints, re-apply thread sealant, and
maybe cap off just after to pressure check before piping any further. I feel
your pain...Tom
Joe wrote:>Hi Gang
>
>I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
>fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
>two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
>and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
>
>1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
>sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
>
>2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
>made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
>
>3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
>pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
>
>Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
>have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
>extreme.
>
>Cheers
>Joe
Someday, it'll all be over....
On 19 Jan 2004 15:25:26 -0800, [email protected] (BIG JOE) wrote:
Are you sure the system isn't leaking at your quick release fittings?
These are the obvious leakers in any air system, and there is an
enormous difference between good quick release fittings and cheap
ones.
>Hi Gang
>
>I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
>fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
>two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
>and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
>
>1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
>sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
>
>2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
>made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
>
>3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
>pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
>
>Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
>have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
>extreme.
>
>Cheers
>Joe
Tim Carver
[email protected]
Just out of curiosity .. .. is there anything wrong with using BOTH Teflon tape
and flexible pipe dope sealant ?? ?? ?? I know a guy who swears by this
method and uses it a;; the time !! !! !!
James D Kountz wrote:
> I dont know is this is right or not but I used 2-3 wraps of teflon tape on
> my fittings and I only had one leak and that one was a nipple on my brad
> nailer. I either got really lucky or the tape works alot better than the
> goo. Something to think on.
>
> Jim
>
> "Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Greetings and Salutations.
> >
> > On 19 Jan 2004 15:25:26 -0800, [email protected] (BIG JOE) wrote:
> >
> > >Hi Gang
> > >
> > >I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
> > >fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
> > >two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
> > >and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
> > >
> > Smart move. Leaks are a continual problem, and, having
> > some flexibility to get rid of them is a good thing.
> >
> > >1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
> > >sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
> > >
> > I assume you mean pipe dope (the putty stuff?). It has been
> > my experience that it should both stay flexible "forever" and if it is
> > going to seal the pipe it should do it when the pipe is tightened up
> > the first time.
> >
> > >2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
> > >made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
> > >
> > I have seen some variation in connectors from the BORG.
> > I doubt it is a problem with the pipe, as that seems ok. There is
> > a decent chance that the fitting has been threaded too far, though.
> >
> > >3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
> > >pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
> > >
> > Well, it is possible to overtighten, I suppose, although
> > I have really only split a PVC fitting by overtightening. Metal
> > pipe is pretty tough. I screw it in hand tight, then, crank
> > another turn or so with a wrench.
> >
> > >Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
> > >have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
> > >extreme.
> > >
> > >Cheers
> > >Joe
> > Yea...that is "iffy". I would suggest, first off, swapping
> > out the leaking fitting for a new one. Kind of a hassle, but,
> > might be easiest in the long run. Alternatively, you could switch
> > over to teflon tape....
> > Regards
> > Dave Mundt
> >
--
I AM NOT PARANOID .. .. .. but EVERYONE thinks I am !! !! !!
<<<__ Bob __>>>
I went with dope alone and the only leaks I have are at the quick disconnect
couplers. (I chased them for a week or two)
I did crank the pipe joints down to 1 1/2 - 2 threads showing per an old
plumbing book I have. That took 24" pipe wrenches.
I assembled as much as I could on the ground and made the last few joints in
place with unions..
I agree with Tom. The joints will have to be tightened until there is very
little of the cut thread left exposed. If they are tightened enough the air
leaks will stop - even the minute ones that cause the system to leak down
over a period of several hours.
"Tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 1) The sealant should not need to set overnight to work.
> 2) HD's black pipe is just fine. 3) Apply
enough
> torque necessary to achieve a seal.
> Just gonna have to tear back to the failed joints, re-apply thread
sealant, and
> maybe cap off just after to pressure check before piping any further. I
feel
> your pain...Tom
> Joe wrote:>Hi Gang
> >
> >I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
> >fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
> >two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
> >and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
> >
> >1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
> >sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
> >
> >2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
> >made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
> >
> >3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
> >pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
> >
> >Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
> >have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
> >extreme.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Joe
>
> Someday, it'll all be over....
Greetings and Salutations.
On 19 Jan 2004 15:25:26 -0800, [email protected] (BIG JOE) wrote:
>Hi Gang
>
>I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
>fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
>two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
>and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
>
Smart move. Leaks are a continual problem, and, having
some flexibility to get rid of them is a good thing.
>1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
>sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
>
I assume you mean pipe dope (the putty stuff?). It has been
my experience that it should both stay flexible "forever" and if it is
going to seal the pipe it should do it when the pipe is tightened up
the first time.
>2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
>made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
>
I have seen some variation in connectors from the BORG.
I doubt it is a problem with the pipe, as that seems ok. There is
a decent chance that the fitting has been threaded too far, though.
>3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
>pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
>
Well, it is possible to overtighten, I suppose, although
I have really only split a PVC fitting by overtightening. Metal
pipe is pretty tough. I screw it in hand tight, then, crank
another turn or so with a wrench.
>Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
>have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
>extreme.
>
>Cheers
>Joe
Yea...that is "iffy". I would suggest, first off, swapping
out the leaking fitting for a new one. Kind of a hassle, but,
might be easiest in the long run. Alternatively, you could switch
over to teflon tape....
Regards
Dave Mundt
On Mon, 19 Jan 2004 18:30:36 -0600, John Crea <[email protected]> wrote:
>Probably should have used teflon tape instead of thread compound
>
>John
>
>On 19 Jan 2004 15:25:26 -0800, [email protected] (BIG JOE) wrote:
>
>>Hi Gang
>>
>>I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
>>fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
>>two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
>>and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
>>
>>1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
>>sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
>>
>>2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
>>made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
>>
>>3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
>>pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
>>
>>Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
>>have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
>>extreme.
>>
>>Cheers
>>Joe
>
IME, Teflon tape is not good for gas lines. I put one in my
house using black pipe and Teflon tape; I couldn't get the
joints to seal, even when I applied enough force with a
pipe wrench to make the pipe egg-shaped.
I had to take the line apart and use pipe dope. That
worked like a charm.
Bob S
>IME, Teflon tape is not good for gas lines. I put one in my
>house using black pipe and Teflon tape; I couldn't get the
>joints to seal, even when I applied enough force with a
>pipe wrench to make the pipe egg-shaped.
>
>I had to take the line apart and use pipe dope. That
>worked like a charm.
>
>Bob S
Was this gas, an in natural gas? There's a special yellow Teflon tape for that.
GTO(John)
I use teflon tape to seal threads in 100+ psi lines. water isn't
necessary for the tape to work, Bob.
dave
Bob Summers wrote:
> On 21 Jan 2004 02:22:33 GMT, [email protected] (GTO69RA4) wrote:
>
>
>>>IME, Teflon tape is not good for gas lines. I put one in my
>>>house using black pipe and Teflon tape; I couldn't get the
>>>joints to seal, even when I applied enough force with a
>>>pipe wrench to make the pipe egg-shaped.
>>>
>>>I had to take the line apart and use pipe dope. That
>>>worked like a charm.
>>>
>>>Bob S
>>
>>Was this gas, an in natural gas? There's a special yellow Teflon tape for that.
>>
>>GTO(John)
>
>
> It was natural gas. I was using the wrong kind of Teflon tape. But ...
> if it won't seal air (used for the pressure test) at 15 psi, how
> well does it really seal. Does Teflon tape depend on the surface
> tension of water to seal?
>
> Bob S
>
On 21 Jan 2004 02:22:33 GMT, [email protected] (GTO69RA4) wrote:
>>IME, Teflon tape is not good for gas lines. I put one in my
>>house using black pipe and Teflon tape; I couldn't get the
>>joints to seal, even when I applied enough force with a
>>pipe wrench to make the pipe egg-shaped.
>>
>>I had to take the line apart and use pipe dope. That
>>worked like a charm.
>>
>>Bob S
>
>Was this gas, an in natural gas? There's a special yellow Teflon tape for that.
>
>GTO(John)
It was natural gas. I was using the wrong kind of Teflon tape. But ...
if it won't seal air (used for the pressure test) at 15 psi, how
well does it really seal. Does Teflon tape depend on the surface
tension of water to seal?
Bob S
Sounds like your joints were bad or you weren't using enough tape. I've used it
for my 120+ PSI air systems for years. So has everyone else I know.
GTO(John)
>It was natural gas. I was using the wrong kind of Teflon tape. But ...
>if it won't seal air (used for the pressure test) at 15 psi, how
>well does it really seal. Does Teflon tape depend on the surface
>tension of water to seal?
>
>Bob S
I use Gasoila soft set with PTFE:
http://www.gasoila.com/gasoila/
It's the blue can, works on about everything.
I elbowed and extended the drain valve in my 175 psi
compressor, occasionally I will twist the elbow in the
bottom of the tank when turning the drain valve, apparently
it's not very tight. It has yet to spring a leak.
--
--
Mark
N.E. Ohio
Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart.
(S. Clemens, A.K.A. Mark Twain)
When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure
ends the suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)
I haven't worked with that much air since working on F-106's
dave
John Crea wrote:
> Dave
>
> I use teflon tape on HP lines (3000psi and above) and they seal just
> fine.
>
> John
>
> On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 21:39:10 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I use teflon tape to seal threads in 100+ psi lines. water isn't
>>necessary for the tape to work, Bob.
>>
>>dave
>>
>>Bob Summers wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On 21 Jan 2004 02:22:33 GMT, [email protected] (GTO69RA4) wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>IME, Teflon tape is not good for gas lines. I put one in my
>>>>>house using black pipe and Teflon tape; I couldn't get the
>>>>>joints to seal, even when I applied enough force with a
>>>>>pipe wrench to make the pipe egg-shaped.
>>>>>
>>>>>I had to take the line apart and use pipe dope. That
>>>>>worked like a charm.
>>>>>
>>>>>Bob S
>>>>
>>>>Was this gas, an in natural gas? There's a special yellow Teflon tape for that.
>>>>
>>>>GTO(John)
>>>
>>>
>>>It was natural gas. I was using the wrong kind of Teflon tape. But ...
>>>if it won't seal air (used for the pressure test) at 15 psi, how
>>>well does it really seal. Does Teflon tape depend on the surface
>>>tension of water to seal?
>>>
>>>Bob S
>>>
>
>
Dave
I use teflon tape on HP lines (3000psi and above) and they seal just
fine.
John
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 21:39:10 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>I use teflon tape to seal threads in 100+ psi lines. water isn't
>necessary for the tape to work, Bob.
>
>dave
>
>Bob Summers wrote:
>
>> On 21 Jan 2004 02:22:33 GMT, [email protected] (GTO69RA4) wrote:
>>
>>
>>>>IME, Teflon tape is not good for gas lines. I put one in my
>>>>house using black pipe and Teflon tape; I couldn't get the
>>>>joints to seal, even when I applied enough force with a
>>>>pipe wrench to make the pipe egg-shaped.
>>>>
>>>>I had to take the line apart and use pipe dope. That
>>>>worked like a charm.
>>>>
>>>>Bob S
>>>
>>>Was this gas, an in natural gas? There's a special yellow Teflon tape for that.
>>>
>>>GTO(John)
>>
>>
>> It was natural gas. I was using the wrong kind of Teflon tape. But ...
>> if it won't seal air (used for the pressure test) at 15 psi, how
>> well does it really seal. Does Teflon tape depend on the surface
>> tension of water to seal?
>>
>> Bob S
>>
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (BIG JOE) wrote:
>Hi Gang
>
>I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
>fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
>two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
>and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
>
>1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
>sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
If you are depending on pipe dope to keep the joints from leaking, then you
haven't made the joints tight enough.
>
>2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
>made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
Most stuff made in Communist China is crap. And even though it's pretty hard
to screw up black pipe, you're still more likely to get pipe with the threads
cut and tapered properly if you buy pipe that was made in a country with a
capitalist economy.
>
>3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
>pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
Yes, it's possible to overtighten a joint so much that the fitting will crack.
It takes a *lot* of force to tighten black pipe that much, though. Much more
likely IMO that your joints are not tight enough, or that some of them are
cross-threaded.
>
>Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
>have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
>extreme.
>
Squirt a little bit of liquid dish detergent or soap in a cup of water and
stir it in well. Then use a paintbrush, or even your fingertip, to coat all of
the joints with the soapy water. Pressurize the system, and you will see
bubbles forming every place there's a leak. (BTW, this is the standard method
of checking for gas leaks too.) Once you find out where the leaks are, you'll
probably figure out why they're leaking too.
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
Plumbers mix this gray powder with water and apply that to threads
before screwing together. I don't know what max pressures it will
support, but I fixed my black pipe garage compressed air system using
this. I remember how disappointed I was after final joint was
completed and hearing the hiss. But that was nothing compared to my
amazement at how #$!%*@ up some of the cut threads were. I mean holes
between threads. Until now, I never paid that kind of attention to
threads. I kinda remember about $4 at any plumbing shop. Also, its
organic, but don't breath it. Dries in about an hour, 24 for full
cure; its only the water that needs to evaporate. Good luck, Tom.
[email protected] (BIG JOE) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hi Gang
>
> I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
> fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
> two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
> and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
>
> 1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
> sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
>
> 2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
> made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
>
> 3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
> pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
>
> Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
> have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
> extreme.
>
> Cheers
> Joe
I've worked with black pipe, PVC, and copper. For air lines, copper is
king! :) Seriously, copper is light and easy to assemble leak free with
a Mapp gas torch.
dave
BIG JOE wrote:
> Hi Gang
>
> I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
> fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
> two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
> and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
>
> 1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
> sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
>
> 2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
> made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
>
> 3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
> pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
>
> Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
> have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
> extreme.
>
> Cheers
> Joe
I dont know is this is right or not but I used 2-3 wraps of teflon tape on
my fittings and I only had one leak and that one was a nipple on my brad
nailer. I either got really lucky or the tape works alot better than the
goo. Something to think on.
Jim
"Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings and Salutations.
>
> On 19 Jan 2004 15:25:26 -0800, [email protected] (BIG JOE) wrote:
>
> >Hi Gang
> >
> >I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
> >fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
> >two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
> >and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
> >
> Smart move. Leaks are a continual problem, and, having
> some flexibility to get rid of them is a good thing.
>
> >1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
> >sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
> >
> I assume you mean pipe dope (the putty stuff?). It has been
> my experience that it should both stay flexible "forever" and if it is
> going to seal the pipe it should do it when the pipe is tightened up
> the first time.
>
> >2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
> >made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
> >
> I have seen some variation in connectors from the BORG.
> I doubt it is a problem with the pipe, as that seems ok. There is
> a decent chance that the fitting has been threaded too far, though.
>
> >3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
> >pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
> >
> Well, it is possible to overtighten, I suppose, although
> I have really only split a PVC fitting by overtightening. Metal
> pipe is pretty tough. I screw it in hand tight, then, crank
> another turn or so with a wrench.
>
> >Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
> >have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
> >extreme.
> >
> >Cheers
> >Joe
> Yea...that is "iffy". I would suggest, first off, swapping
> out the leaking fitting for a new one. Kind of a hassle, but,
> might be easiest in the long run. Alternatively, you could switch
> over to teflon tape....
> Regards
> Dave Mundt
>
A combination of non hardening Permatex and teflon makes a very durable
joint sealant.
Tim
<<<___ Bob ___>>> wrote:
> Just out of curiosity .. .. is there anything wrong with using BOTH Teflon tape
> and flexible pipe dope sealant ?? ?? ?? I know a guy who swears by this
> method and uses it a;; the time !! !! !!
>
> James D Kountz wrote:
>
>
>>I dont know is this is right or not but I used 2-3 wraps of teflon tape on
>>my fittings and I only had one leak and that one was a nipple on my brad
>>nailer. I either got really lucky or the tape works alot better than the
>>goo. Something to think on.
>>
>>Jim
>>
>>"Dave Mundt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Greetings and Salutations.
>>>
>>>On 19 Jan 2004 15:25:26 -0800, [email protected] (BIG JOE) wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hi Gang
>>>>
>>>>I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
>>>>fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
>>>>two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
>>>>and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
>>>>
>>>
>>>Smart move. Leaks are a continual problem, and, having
>>>some flexibility to get rid of them is a good thing.
>>>
>>>
>>>>1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
>>>>sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
>>>>
>>>
>>>I assume you mean pipe dope (the putty stuff?). It has been
>>>my experience that it should both stay flexible "forever" and if it is
>>>going to seal the pipe it should do it when the pipe is tightened up
>>>the first time.
>>>
>>>
>>>>2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
>>>>made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
>>>>
>>>
>>>I have seen some variation in connectors from the BORG.
>>>I doubt it is a problem with the pipe, as that seems ok. There is
>>>a decent chance that the fitting has been threaded too far, though.
>>>
>>>
>>>>3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
>>>>pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
>>>>
>>>
>>>Well, it is possible to overtighten, I suppose, although
>>>I have really only split a PVC fitting by overtightening. Metal
>>>pipe is pretty tough. I screw it in hand tight, then, crank
>>>another turn or so with a wrench.
>>>
>>>
>>>>Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
>>>>have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
>>>>extreme.
>>>>
>>>>Cheers
>>>>Joe
>>>
>>>Yea...that is "iffy". I would suggest, first off, swapping
>>>out the leaking fitting for a new one. Kind of a hassle, but,
>>>might be easiest in the long run. Alternatively, you could switch
>>>over to teflon tape....
>>>Regards
>>>Dave Mundt
>>>
>
>
> --
> I AM NOT PARANOID .. .. .. but EVERYONE thinks I am !! !! !!
>
> <<<__ Bob __>>>
>
>
--
No BoomBoom for me! - [email protected]
Tim Carver wrote ...
>
> Are you sure the system isn't leaking at your quick release fittings?
> These are the obvious leakers in any air system, and there is an
> enormous difference between good quick release fittings and cheap
> ones.
>
Well, the audible leaks are at an end cap (for future expansion to
garage), and the one and only normal coupling (i.e., not a union) in
the system. I bought my quick release fittings at the best hardware
store in town (UA100 will attest to that), because I'm aware of the
quality issues with BORG stuff. They appear to be leak free.
Joe
Ralph Roseburg suggested... You should use rector seal #9 for the
sealing compound, depending on the
> pipe (say up to 1") size you are using you should be able to tighten the
> threads 3 to 4 turns for a hand tight fit, if less than 3 turns your
> threads wont seal! if more than 4 to 5 turns the pipe will screw in too
> far and possibly bottom out and not seal depending on the type of
> fitting it is going into. You should use sharp pipe dies to cut the
> threads if they are not sharp the threads will not be sharp and true you
> must use an ample amount of cutting oil when cutting the threads. You
> should only use pipe couplings that are steel with a designated as taper
> tap/ most couplings sold in hardware stores have straight pipe threads
> and don't seal as easy and taper tap couplings
Funny you should mention that. After finishing up, I remembered I had
some other pipe dope laying around, and sure enough, it's the rector
stuff I'd used on some garden hose fittings and never had a problem.
The stuff I used on the black pipe was greyish and of an inconsistent
texture.
I will break down and clean the problem connections and use the rector
stuff and maybe teflon tape as well as suggested hear by others. I
probably need a bigger pipe wrench as well, mine is only about 15
inches long. When needing two wrenches, I substituted a vise-grip,
which never slipped on me, but doesn't give me much leverage.
Joe
Bob suggested ...
> Just out of curiosity .. .. is there anything wrong with using BOTH Teflon tape
> and flexible pipe dope sealant ?? ?? ?? I know a guy who swears by this
> method and uses it a;; the time !! !! !!
>
That's what I ended up doing. I probably redid 80% of the joints by
the time I was done, and all appears to be leak free. Whatever pipe
sealant they sold my at Home Depot you can wipe your arse with.
Now that the system is up and running, it's time to shop for nailers.
Joe
Gee Bob, maybe because the Home Depot employee grabbed it off the
f*cking shelf and handed it to me. "This will work for what you're
doing."
BTW: Many Ridgid items are sold elsewhere.
Joe
>
> Out of nowhere comes another useless Home Depot dig. Since HD does
> not have store brand items (except for Ridgid) the pipe sealant is
> probably sold in thousands of other stores and plumbing suppliers.
> Why pick on HD?
"Scott Brownell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >> Anyone that says they get a perfect seal every time with just dope is
blowing
> smoke up your ass because they haven't done much of it, if any.
>
Excuse me?
I run allot of black gas pipe from time to time for my job. We use
Rectorseal with teflon. Before that we just used plain ol' Rectorseal. Sure,
I get a leak from time to time, but for the many thousands of feet of gas
pipe I have threaded I assure you you can get a good seal with just pipe
dope. We are not allowed to use teflon tape, it is against mechanical code
in our area.
I did a job a while back that feed 8 differant heating units, total load was
around 2 million BTU. Ran about 300 feet of 2" black pipe, and about 150
feet of 1" pipe, plus 3/4" and 1/2" to connect the equipment. Put a pressure
test on it at 2 pm Friday, and on Monday it was still holding, no loss in
pressure at all.
From what I see if someone gets a leak, the pipe was not tight enough! Sure,
you can get a bad thread or fitting once in a while, but if I find a leak, 9
times out of ten it just needs another turn or two. 2" pipe for example I
tighten with 24" pipe wrenches untill I can not turn it any more. Give it a
few minutes and I can usually give it one more turn.
Greg
>From: [email protected] (BIG JOE)
>Date: 1/26/04 1:37 PM Eastern Standard Time
>Message-id: <[email protected]>
>
>Gee Bob, maybe because the Home Depot employee grabbed it off the
>f*cking shelf and handed it to me. "This will work for what you're
>doing."
>
>BTW: Many Ridgid items are sold elsewhere.
>
>Joe
>
>
>
>
>>
>> Out of nowhere comes another useless Home Depot dig. Since HD does
>> not have store brand items (except for Ridgid) the pipe sealant is
>> probably sold in thousands of other stores and plumbing suppliers.
>> Why pick on HD?
>
I'm not Bob but I can tell you that I've had the exact same problem with pipe
dope I've picked up at my plumbing supplier. The stuff you purchased is fine,
nothing wrong with it. It's the treads of the fittings and/or pipe. Please
trust me for a second on this, the fittings from even the most trusted supplier
can be suspect. Pipe threads can vary just because of the amount of wear on the
cutters at the time they were cut, let alone where they might be made now,
Tiawan is a big producer as well as others. I'm not a plumber (am a contractor)
but the other 3 male members of my family are so I learned years ago to use 2-3
wraps of teflon tape with a dose of pipe dope added to insure a good seal.
Anyone that says they get a perfect seal every time with just dope is blowing
smoke up your ass because they haven't done much of it, if any.
BTW, Ridgid woodworking tools are only sold at HD. Their line of plumbing tools
(great products) are sold in many places.
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms up later,
the damage remains.
Nail Bender wrote:
> Ok. Time for my two-cents worth on this topic. Coming in from the
> Industrial side of the fence, the first thing you learn is that to
> design a leak-free system, you do not use NPT threads, the kinds you
> find at the Borg (as you call them) and Lowes and such. It's
> everywhere!
Ok, so what kind of threads do you use, and where do you get 'em?
-- Mark
Ok. Time for my two-cents worth on this topic. Coming in from the
Industrial side of the fence, the first thing you learn is that to design a
leak-free system, you do not use NPT threads, the kinds you find at the Borg
(as you call them) and Lowes and such. It's everywhere!
Teflon tape is a great sealant, if used properly, and the only kind you
need. The Teflon dope is a good lubricant and sealant, but I see no need to
use both. If you wrap the pipe starting from the opening end back with a
couple of wraps as Scott suggests, you'll be fine. If you come from the
school of thought "if a couple is good, then four must be great!", you stand
the risk of cracking the pipe while tightening it. Seen it happen.
In industry, beware of poor wrapping practices with teflon tape because
pieces of the tape can get into valves and such and foul them. Imagine the
same is true with nailers and other air tools.
Nailbender
"Scott Brownell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >From: [email protected] (BIG JOE)
> >Date: 1/26/04 1:37 PM Eastern Standard Time
> >Message-id: <[email protected]>
> >
> >Gee Bob, maybe because the Home Depot employee grabbed it off the
> >f*cking shelf and handed it to me. "This will work for what you're
> >doing."
> >
> >BTW: Many Ridgid items are sold elsewhere.
> >
> >Joe
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Out of nowhere comes another useless Home Depot dig. Since HD does
> >> not have store brand items (except for Ridgid) the pipe sealant is
> >> probably sold in thousands of other stores and plumbing suppliers.
> >> Why pick on HD?
> >
>
> I'm not Bob but I can tell you that I've had the exact same problem with
pipe
> dope I've picked up at my plumbing supplier. The stuff you purchased is
fine,
> nothing wrong with it. It's the treads of the fittings and/or pipe. Please
> trust me for a second on this, the fittings from even the most trusted
supplier
> can be suspect. Pipe threads can vary just because of the amount of wear
on the
> cutters at the time they were cut, let alone where they might be made now,
> Tiawan is a big producer as well as others. I'm not a plumber (am a
contractor)
> but the other 3 male members of my family are so I learned years ago to
use 2-3
> wraps of teflon tape with a dose of pipe dope added to insure a good seal.
> Anyone that says they get a perfect seal every time with just dope is
blowing
> smoke up your ass because they haven't done much of it, if any.
>
> BTW, Ridgid woodworking tools are only sold at HD. Their line of plumbing
tools
> (great products) are sold in many places.
>
> Scott
>
>
> --
> An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms up
later,
> the damage remains.
On 20 Jan 2004 07:18:17 -0800, [email protected] (BIG JOE) wrote:
>>
>Well, the audible leaks are at an end cap (for future expansion to
>garage), and the one and only normal coupling (i.e., not a union) in
>the system. I bought my quick release fittings at the best hardware
>store in town (UA100 will attest to that), because I'm aware of the
>quality issues with BORG stuff. They appear to be leak free.
>
This makes sense. These can be much harder than unions to get tight,
since you often can't use a vise. Why not replace the coupling with a
union, and replace the end cap with a union+nipple+endcap made up in
a vise (so it will be nice and tight)? Seems like having your endcap
on a stub+union would be better for future expansion anyway, you could
just replace the capped stub with your new pipe later.
Tim Carver
[email protected]
On 25 Jan 2004 21:20:11 -0800, [email protected] (BIG JOE) wrote:
>Bob suggested ...
>> Just out of curiosity .. .. is there anything wrong with using BOTH Teflon tape
>> and flexible pipe dope sealant ?? ?? ?? I know a guy who swears by this
>> method and uses it a;; the time !! !! !!
>
>>
>That's what I ended up doing. I probably redid 80% of the joints by
>the time I was done, and all appears to be leak free. Whatever pipe
>sealant they sold my at Home Depot you can wipe your arse with
Out of nowhere comes another useless Home Depot dig. Since HD does
not have store brand items (except for Ridgid) the pipe sealant is
probably sold in thousands of other stores and plumbing suppliers.
Why pick on HD?
Probably should have used teflon tape instead of thread compound
John
On 19 Jan 2004 15:25:26 -0800, [email protected] (BIG JOE) wrote:
>Hi Gang
>
>I've nearly completed my stationary compressor system, and I go to
>fill it with air and am greeted with a hissing sound from (at least)
>two locations. Luckily, I added enough unions to allow me to tighten
>and such, but my first attempts at tightening have done little good.
>
>1.) Should I not have pressurized the lines until allowing the pipe
>sealant to firm up overnight. (does it even firm up?)
>
>2.) Should I not have bought the pipe at Home Depot? It's probably
>made in China, and a poster warned me about that.
>
>3.) How much torque is necessary to seal the joints? I cranked
>pretty hard on most of the joints. Is it possible to overtighten?
>
>Any suggestions would be helpful. I guess as a last resort I could
>have a buddy come by and weld the problem joints, but that seems
>extreme.
>
>Cheers
>Joe