I recently ran into a pretty good deal on varying widths and lengths of UHMW
plastic (actually, a really good deal -- a cabinet shop gave it to me for
the bubble). I'd like to use it to make things like zero-clearance fences
and throat plates for my table saw and such.
I know that I can cut it and rout it, but does anyone know if I can plane it
without damaging the blades on my nice Dewalt 735?
TIA
George M. Kazaka wrote:
> I have not planed it but have run a dovetail router bit thru it
> I do not see a problem with planing it,
> it mills rather well
> What i could not do is get epoxy to stick to it,
> so much for the saying that epoxy will hold anything to anything
>
> Not true with this stuff
Be prepared to have a LOT of fluffy shavings, don't try to use a dust
collector with this stuff, it makes strings that will tie the fan up.
There might be a solvent to weld it to itself, but otherwise you have to
use mechanical fasteners.
Turning it is fun too.
Stuart
>If you're needing to machine a lot of it, consider using HDPE instead.
>It has nearly all of the advantages of UHMW, but the extra surface
>hardness means that it wears better in use and it's easier to machine
>with power tools.
>.
That depends on the advantages you are looking for. HDPE has a higher
coefficient of friction and doesn't wear as well. Not bad stuff but
not in the same class as UHMW.
>What i could not do is get epoxy to stick to it,
>so much for the saying that epoxy will hold anything to anything
>
>Not true with this stuff
Unless something has changed in the last couple of years there is no
way to chemically bond this stuff and many good companies have tried.
It is virtually chemically inert so nothing can dissolve it to the
point of bonding and it's so slick that nothing can bond to it. It is
also virtually impossible to weld since you can't melt it. You can
heat it and flow some HDPE into it but it would be more for appearance
as it will have no structural integrity.
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 21:21:42 -0500, "Harvey Levin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I know that I can cut it and rout it, but does anyone know if I can plane it
>without damaging the blades on my nice Dewalt 735?
It won't hurt, but neither does it give a good surface finish
particularly easily. Sharp planer knives, and check the height on the
outfeed table. The surface is soft and so it's prone to "scalloping"
I tend to go for hand tools with it - low angle planes, hone the iron
before you use it.
If you're needing to machine a lot of it, consider using HDPE instead.
It has nearly all of the advantages of UHMW, but the extra surface
hardness means that it wears better in use and it's easier to machine
with power tools.
.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
On 19-Jan-2004, Stuart Wheaton <[email protected]> wrote:
> There might be a solvent to weld it to itself, but otherwise you have to
> use mechanical fasteners.
There are glues made for low surface energy plastics. They are very
expensive. 3M Scotch-Weld DP-8005 Structural Plastic Adhesive
35 ml C$35.00 - from a local shop catalogue (note that 35ml is 1.25 oz.
for ~US$27).
Locktite makes one as well for around the same price.
I saw something on the Discovery Channel recently about the strength
of mussels when they bond to rock, piers etc. They can stick to
Teflon. They hope to use the knowledge of the chemical structure of
the mussel goop to create a new range of superglues.
Mike
On 19-Jan-2004, [email protected] (Tom) wrote:
> Unless something has changed in the last couple of years there is no
> way to chemically bond this stuff and many good companies have tried.
How do they get ski bases to stick to skis?
Mike
I have not planed it but have run a dovetail router bit thru it
I do not see a problem with planing it,
it mills rather well
What i could not do is get epoxy to stick to it,
so much for the saying that epoxy will hold anything to anything
Not true with this stuff
Good Luck, George
"Harvey Levin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:TaHOb.4035$_H5.3120@lakeread06...
> I recently ran into a pretty good deal on varying widths and lengths of
UHMW
> plastic (actually, a really good deal -- a cabinet shop gave it to me for
> the bubble). I'd like to use it to make things like zero-clearance fences
> and throat plates for my table saw and such.
>
> I know that I can cut it and rout it, but does anyone know if I can plane
it
> without damaging the blades on my nice Dewalt 735?
>
> TIA
>
>
I ran it through my old planer, did not hurt the blades any.
Tony D.
"John Crea" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Harvey
>
> It is softer than most woods, so it shouldn't HURT you planer
>
> John
>
> On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 21:21:42 -0500, "Harvey Levin"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I recently ran into a pretty good deal on varying widths and lengths of
UHMW
> >plastic (actually, a really good deal -- a cabinet shop gave it to me for
> >the bubble). I'd like to use it to make things like zero-clearance
fences
> >and throat plates for my table saw and such.
> >
> >I know that I can cut it and rout it, but does anyone know if I can plane
it
> >without damaging the blades on my nice Dewalt 735?
> >
> >TIA
> >
>
"Harvey Levin" writes:
>I recently ran into a pretty good deal on varying widths and lengths of
UHMW
>plastic (actually, a really good deal -- a cabinet shop gave it to me for
>the bubble). I'd like to use it to make things like zero-clearance fences
>and throat plates for my table saw and such.
>
>I know that I can cut it and rout it, but does anyone know if I can plane
it
>without damaging the blades on my nice Dewalt 735?
You can certainly machine UHMWPE; however, a word of caution.
It has a relatively high coefficient of thermal expansion.
You need to take very light cuts and allow the piece to cool before taking
measurements.
I used this stuff to make sleeve bearings for the rudder of the sailboat I'm
building so lathe work was involved.
Personally, I'd probably not use it for zero clearance inserts, it would be
a waste, even if you got it free.
When it comes to UHMWPE, think bearing surfaces.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
On Tue, 20 Jan 2004 21:08:04 GMT, [email protected] (Tom)
wrote:
>
>>How do they get ski bases to stick to skis?
>...Which part is UHMW?
The slippery part? ;-)
Harvey
It is softer than most woods, so it shouldn't HURT you planer
John
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 21:21:42 -0500, "Harvey Levin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I recently ran into a pretty good deal on varying widths and lengths of UHMW
>plastic (actually, a really good deal -- a cabinet shop gave it to me for
>the bubble). I'd like to use it to make things like zero-clearance fences
>and throat plates for my table saw and such.
>
>I know that I can cut it and rout it, but does anyone know if I can plane it
>without damaging the blades on my nice Dewalt 735?
>
>TIA
>
your cutting blades may gum up from the heat, but other than that i
would think it could be done.
however i wonder if when it first touches the blades if it may
splinter???? DON'T KNOW THAT PART EITHER.
just make sure you weare your saftey glasses when trying this and i
think we all would like to know the results.
On Sun, 18 Jan 2004 21:21:42 -0500, "Harvey Levin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I recently ran into a pretty good deal on varying widths and lengths of UHMW
>plastic (actually, a really good deal -- a cabinet shop gave it to me for
>the bubble). I'd like to use it to make things like zero-clearance fences
>and throat plates for my table saw and such.
>
>I know that I can cut it and rout it, but does anyone know if I can plane it
>without damaging the blades on my nice Dewalt 735?
You can plane it, but there are some issues. I have run it through
my stationary planer. I haven't tried it in my portable..
1.) It makes long, stringy shavings that essentially try to form
slick ropes that will choke your DC and will completely gum things up
inside your planer if not attended to. I would suggest disconnecting
the DC, and cleaning out the shavings by hand on each pass. This is
less of a problem with small pieces, of course.
2) This stuff often has a lot of curl in it, and you need to resist
any impulse to hope the planer will somehow make this better. Choose
a reasonably flat piece to work with. In particular, if you feed it
through with as curl facing up, you're going to get a nasty bang when
the material hits the blades. If you have curl, you need to eliminate
it first, hopefully by just cutting the curled part out.
3) Don't expect a mirror smooth surface. It will have a machined
look, with some surface variation, but it will be pretty good.
>
>TIA
>
Tim Carver
[email protected]