MP

Michael Press

18/01/2004 9:38 PM

miter box stand/support system

I just got a new miter box and I need to build a stand for it. In
addition I figure I'd like a long support surface on both sides.

My typical use for a while will be 1) trimming big wood - 8' 2x4 and
2x6, and 2) mitering little wood (for picture frames)

I could just whip something together, but I'm looking for suggestions
and/or plans based on others' experience so I don't make the same
mistakes others may have made and learned from.

For example,
* What's an ideal table height? I'm leaning toward a cutting-surface
height of 40" based on my RAS table height.
* What's an ideal length of support on either side? I could vary
placement of the saw in the workshop to give it the proper distances,
but where I'm planning on putting it I've got about 6' available to
the left and 4' to the right.
* How important is it to be mobile? Is this a machine that's easily
wheeled out for occasional use or more likely to be necessary to
quicly accessible?
* How important is it to be level? Should I put bolts on the ends of
the legs (like my RAS) so each leg can be raised/lowered? Or is it
sufficient to just cut the legs to the same length?
* Should I make a single long unit (saw table and wood supports), or
make the wood supports separate so they can be changed if necessary,
and separately leveled from the table?
* What's a good material for the wood supports - MDF for the base and
fence? (I don't have planer/jointer to make true boards).
* What are some good time-saving tricks - tape measure on the fence,
adjustable stop, etc.

Thanks for any input.

Michael


This topic has 4 replies

JD

"James D Kountz"

in reply to Michael Press on 18/01/2004 9:38 PM

19/01/2004 3:06 AM

Actually I just looked at Norms site and he has two. A miter bench/station
and a portable unit as well.

Jim


"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just got a new miter box and I need to build a stand for it. In
> addition I figure I'd like a long support surface on both sides.
>
> My typical use for a while will be 1) trimming big wood - 8' 2x4 and
> 2x6, and 2) mitering little wood (for picture frames)
>
> I could just whip something together, but I'm looking for suggestions
> and/or plans based on others' experience so I don't make the same
> mistakes others may have made and learned from.
>
> For example,
> * What's an ideal table height? I'm leaning toward a cutting-surface
> height of 40" based on my RAS table height.
> * What's an ideal length of support on either side? I could vary
> placement of the saw in the workshop to give it the proper distances,
> but where I'm planning on putting it I've got about 6' available to
> the left and 4' to the right.
> * How important is it to be mobile? Is this a machine that's easily
> wheeled out for occasional use or more likely to be necessary to
> quicly accessible?
> * How important is it to be level? Should I put bolts on the ends of
> the legs (like my RAS) so each leg can be raised/lowered? Or is it
> sufficient to just cut the legs to the same length?
> * Should I make a single long unit (saw table and wood supports), or
> make the wood supports separate so they can be changed if necessary,
> and separately leveled from the table?
> * What's a good material for the wood supports - MDF for the base and
> fence? (I don't have planer/jointer to make true boards).
> * What are some good time-saving tricks - tape measure on the fence,
> adjustable stop, etc.
>
> Thanks for any input.
>
> Michael
>
>

MR

Mark

in reply to Michael Press on 18/01/2004 9:38 PM

19/01/2004 5:35 AM



Michael Press wrote:

> I just got a new miter box and I need to build a stand for it. In
> addition I figure I'd like a long support surface on both sides.



Saw horses, two long 2x4s on edge, cut 2x4s at the ends, and
vertical 2x4s on the end pieces cut to the miters bed height.

Works great. Cost $6 ( not counting horses ).

But then the Barn has to go between a general work shop, a
mechanics shop and a wood shop. Compact storage is the issue.




--

Mark

N.E. Ohio


Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart.
(S. Clemens, A.K.A. Mark Twain)

When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure
ends the suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)

Wb

"Wilson"

in reply to Michael Press on 18/01/2004 9:38 PM

19/01/2004 3:25 PM

I've got a Delta. It's strong and sturdy, but I really don't like the way
it stores.


"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just got a new miter box and I need to build a stand for it. In
> addition I figure I'd like a long support surface on both sides.
>
> My typical use for a while will be 1) trimming big wood - 8' 2x4 and
> 2x6, and 2) mitering little wood (for picture frames)
>
> I could just whip something together, but I'm looking for suggestions
> and/or plans based on others' experience so I don't make the same
> mistakes others may have made and learned from.
>
> For example,
> * What's an ideal table height? I'm leaning toward a cutting-surface
> height of 40" based on my RAS table height.
> * What's an ideal length of support on either side? I could vary
> placement of the saw in the workshop to give it the proper distances,
> but where I'm planning on putting it I've got about 6' available to
> the left and 4' to the right.
> * How important is it to be mobile? Is this a machine that's easily
> wheeled out for occasional use or more likely to be necessary to
> quicly accessible?
> * How important is it to be level? Should I put bolts on the ends of
> the legs (like my RAS) so each leg can be raised/lowered? Or is it
> sufficient to just cut the legs to the same length?
> * Should I make a single long unit (saw table and wood supports), or
> make the wood supports separate so they can be changed if necessary,
> and separately leveled from the table?
> * What's a good material for the wood supports - MDF for the base and
> fence? (I don't have planer/jointer to make true boards).
> * What are some good time-saving tricks - tape measure on the fence,
> adjustable stop, etc.
>
> Thanks for any input.
>
> Michael
>
>

JD

"James D Kountz"

in reply to Michael Press on 18/01/2004 9:38 PM

19/01/2004 3:06 AM

There are many ways of doing this and alot of what you asked is a matter of
personal preference. However I do recall seeing a plan for a miter station
over at Uncle Norms website. www.newyankee.com Im sure theres other plans
out there, butthis is just the first one that came to mind.

Jim


"Michael Press" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just got a new miter box and I need to build a stand for it. In
> addition I figure I'd like a long support surface on both sides.
>
> My typical use for a while will be 1) trimming big wood - 8' 2x4 and
> 2x6, and 2) mitering little wood (for picture frames)
>
> I could just whip something together, but I'm looking for suggestions
> and/or plans based on others' experience so I don't make the same
> mistakes others may have made and learned from.
>
> For example,
> * What's an ideal table height? I'm leaning toward a cutting-surface
> height of 40" based on my RAS table height.
> * What's an ideal length of support on either side? I could vary
> placement of the saw in the workshop to give it the proper distances,
> but where I'm planning on putting it I've got about 6' available to
> the left and 4' to the right.
> * How important is it to be mobile? Is this a machine that's easily
> wheeled out for occasional use or more likely to be necessary to
> quicly accessible?
> * How important is it to be level? Should I put bolts on the ends of
> the legs (like my RAS) so each leg can be raised/lowered? Or is it
> sufficient to just cut the legs to the same length?
> * Should I make a single long unit (saw table and wood supports), or
> make the wood supports separate so they can be changed if necessary,
> and separately leveled from the table?
> * What's a good material for the wood supports - MDF for the base and
> fence? (I don't have planer/jointer to make true boards).
> * What are some good time-saving tricks - tape measure on the fence,
> adjustable stop, etc.
>
> Thanks for any input.
>
> Michael
>
>


You’ve reached the end of replies