depends on the filler and depends on the look. filler that doesn't stain as
well as the wood creates a grain highlight.
--
"JGS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jack, as an aside, what would happen if you used your filler on say oak
and then
> stained the piece. Does it take the stain? Thanks, JG
>
> Nova wrote:
>
> > ShakasCaregiver wrote:
> >
> > > Project is a small table top of walnut. First time to finish
walnut. The
> > > test pieces look like they are full of pores when verathane is
applied. Not
> > > smooth. The man at the paint store wanted to sell white filler.
Doesn't seem
> > > right, but I don't know. Any suggestions appreciated. Scott
> >
> > Do you know what the "white filler" was? I use "FFFF" pumice along with
shellac
> > to fill walnut. By itself pumice is white. It turns translucent when
applied
> > with the shellac.
> >
> > --
> > Jack Novak
> > Buffalo, NY - USA
> > (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
>
Try this link, thanks to Charlie Self, the author:
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/assets/html/fillers.asp?mscssid=21F24A90FB4C4DDB99D26EAB533CEAD2
Mike
p.s. don't buy anything from this shameless, corporate-minded beast of a
company (at least not on the website hehe)
"ShakasCaregiver" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Project is a small table top of walnut. First time to finish walnut.
The
> test pieces look like they are full of pores when verathane is applied.
Not
> smooth. The man at the paint store wanted to sell white filler. Doesn't
seem
> right, but I don't know. Any suggestions appreciated. Scott
ShakasCaregiver wrote:
> Project is a small table top of walnut. First time to finish walnut. The
> test pieces look like they are full of pores when verathane is applied. Not
> smooth. The man at the paint store wanted to sell white filler. Doesn't seem
> right, but I don't know. Any suggestions appreciated. Scott
Do you know what the "white filler" was? I use "FFFF" pumice along with shellac
to fill walnut. By itself pumice is white. It turns translucent when applied
with the shellac.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Jack, as an aside, what would happen if you used your filler on say oak and then
stained the piece. Does it take the stain? Thanks, JG
Nova wrote:
> ShakasCaregiver wrote:
>
> > Project is a small table top of walnut. First time to finish walnut. The
> > test pieces look like they are full of pores when verathane is applied. Not
> > smooth. The man at the paint store wanted to sell white filler. Doesn't seem
> > right, but I don't know. Any suggestions appreciated. Scott
>
> Do you know what the "white filler" was? I use "FFFF" pumice along with shellac
> to fill walnut. By itself pumice is white. It turns translucent when applied
> with the shellac.
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
JGS wrote:
> Jack, as an aside, what would happen if you used your filler on say oak and then
> stained the piece. Does it take the stain? Thanks, JG
I haven't tried using it on oak. If I were to use it I think I'd rub the
shellac/pumice mixture into the pores and then sand the surface back to bare wood,
leaving the filler in the pores, before staining.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
I believe he means he filled the open pores too concealed them.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "markm" <[email protected]> wrote in
> message news:kPiUb.181339$nt4.781551@attbi_s51...
>
> > ...it took 8 coats and there is no grain
> > showing.
>
> Why would you want to conceal the grain of a walnut table?
>
>
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in news:9PudnfA198oBwL_dRVn-
[email protected]:
> I believe he means he filled the open pores too concealed them.
>
Don't be too sure. Almost all of the trim and door in our 100+ year old
house are made of walnut and many of them are painted. For the record the
ugly lime green paint seems to stick the best...at least it resists the
stripper the best.
jim
You can keep adding coats of finish and cutting them back till the pores are
filled level with the rest of the wood or use a pore filler. There are pore
fillers that come in various colors but I like the Crystalac clear drying
pore filler. It looks a bit like the glue you would find in a kindergarten
but does dry clear.
One source would be McFeeley's. They do have an online site.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"ShakasCaregiver" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Project is a small table top of walnut. First time to finish walnut.
The
> test pieces look like they are full of pores when verathane is applied.
Not
> smooth. The man at the paint store wanted to sell white filler. Doesn't
seem
> right, but I don't know. Any suggestions appreciated. Scott
Jim <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in news:9PudnfA198oBwL_dRVn-
> [email protected]:
> > I believe he means he filled the open pores too concealed them.
> Don't be too sure. Almost all of the trim and door in our 100+ year old
> house are made of walnut and many of them are painted. For the record the
> ugly lime green paint seems to stick the best...at least it resists the
> stripper the best.
Yeah, and it's probably lead based too . . .
Bill Ranck
Blacksburg, Va.
With Varathane I just wet sand afer each couple of coats. Just finished a
walnut table with Varathane and it took 8 coats and there is no grain
showing. I've done the same with lacquer.
Another thing that worked well for me was with cracks and holes that I
didn't see before the first coat. I've found that I can spot aply finish
with a toothpick and dry it real fast with a head gun. I do this over and
over until it builds up, then wait till it really dries and wet sand it
flat.
mark
"ShakasCaregiver" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Project is a small table top of walnut. First time to finish walnut.
The
> test pieces look like they are full of pores when verathane is applied.
Not
> smooth. The man at the paint store wanted to sell white filler. Doesn't
seem
> right, but I don't know. Any suggestions appreciated. Scott
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> You can keep adding coats of finish and cutting them back till the
> pores are filled level with the rest of the wood or use a pore filler.
> There are pore fillers that come in various colors but I like the
> Crystalac clear drying pore filler. It looks a bit like the glue you
> would find in a kindergarten but does dry clear.
>
> One source would be McFeeley's. They do have an online site.
>
I did just that on a small piece I made for xmas. It only took a couple
of coats fo shelac to fill in all the pores. The nice thing about the
clear shellac is that it doesn't NEED to take stain since it is basically
clear.
I don't know what your top coat is going to be, but do a test on the back
side to make sure it looks ok with the shellac only in the "pits" and
grain area. On a light colored wood project I just finished I found I
needed to put finish up with a 1 lbs cut of shellac as a cover coat
before I finished with varnish. Without the thin covercoat the areas the
shellac filled were a slightly different sheen.
Jim
Mike G wrote:
> I believe he means he filled the open pores too concealed them.
I think "level" might be more in order here, unless I misunderstand the OP.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
"markm" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:kPiUb.181339$nt4.781551@attbi_s51...
> ...it took 8 coats and there is no grain
> showing.
Why would you want to conceal the grain of a walnut table?