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"anthony diodati"

19/12/2003 5:32 AM

Wood Plug Trim Saw

I thought this weeks tip from WoodworkingTips.com , (woodsmith) was a
pretty good Idea, So I thought I'd pass it along.

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip031219sn.html


This topic has 8 replies

Pn

Phisherman

in reply to "anthony diodati" on 19/12/2003 5:32 AM

19/12/2003 3:45 PM

On Fri, 19 Dec 2003 05:32:50 -0500, "anthony diodati"
<[email protected]> wrote:

> I thought this weeks tip from WoodworkingTips.com , (woodsmith) was a
>pretty good Idea, So I thought I'd pass it along.
>
>http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip031219sn.html
>


I looked at that--don't need it. I bought an inexpensive Japanese
flush-cut saw from Harbour Freight that makes cutting off plugs a
snap. After I bought it, I wondered why I didn't buy one long ago.

GG

Gregg Germain

in reply to "anthony diodati" on 19/12/2003 5:32 AM

22/12/2003 12:41 PM

anthony diodati <[email protected]> wrote:
: I thought this weeks tip from WoodworkingTips.com , (woodsmith) was a
: pretty good Idea, So I thought I'd pass it along.

: http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip031219sn.html

Thanks for posting the tip.

I, myself, prefer to use a chisel. Making sure it slices and doesn't
break the plug. On a boat that's 28 feet longI have hundreds of these
to do and it's pretty simple to get it down to a minimal sand/plane
level with a chisel.

--- Gregg

My woodworking projects:


Replicas of 15th-19th century nautical navigational instruments:

http://home.comcast.net/~saville/backstaffhome.html

Restoration of my 82 year old Herreshoff S-Boat sailboat:

http://home.comcast.net/~saville/SBOATrestore.htm

Steambending FAQ with photos:

http://home.comcast.net/~saville/Steambend.htm



"Improvise, adapt, overcome."
[email protected]
Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics
Phone: (617) 496-1558

dD

[email protected] (Dick Durbin)

in reply to "anthony diodati" on 19/12/2003 5:32 AM

19/12/2003 4:13 PM

Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I looked at that--don't need it. I bought an inexpensive Japanese
> flush-cut saw from Harbour Freight that makes cutting off plugs a
> snap. After I bought it, I wondered why I didn't buy one long ago.

I have one from Lee Valley that has proven itself to be invaluable.
Each Adirondack chair I make has more than 30 plugs.

Dick Durbin

cC

[email protected] (Conan the Librarian)

in reply to "anthony diodati" on 19/12/2003 5:32 AM

22/12/2003 4:05 PM

Gregg Germain <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

> I, myself, prefer to use a chisel. Making sure it slices and doesn't
> break the plug.

Yep, I tend to start off by taping around the plug with some of the
blue "painter's tape", and then I take a flushcut saw and get it
close. After that, it's just a few slicing motions approaching the
plug from the outside towards the middle and you're good to go.

The tape prevents scratches; if you're paying attention, you catch
yourself as soon as you nick the tape rather than contacting the wood.
Also, a crank-neck chisel is nice to have. You can keep the chisel
from diving even when you're working in the middle of a wide piece.
There the handle on a standard chisel tends to interfere with keeping
the back flush to the work.


Chuck Vance

rr

in reply to "anthony diodati" on 19/12/2003 5:32 AM

22/12/2003 7:07 AM

Rhe pull saw is great for trimming plugs an dowels. Used alone,
you will most likely scratch adjacent surfaces. I made a very
servicable "guard" out of "hobby" sheet brass (0.10") I found at
my local Ace Hardware. Sandwich the brass between wood scraps,
drill appropriate-sized holes for the plugs, drop over the plug
and saw away. I keep mine in a CD case to keep it flat when
taking to jobsite. The brass sheet won't harm the pill saw teeth.
Try it, works for me.

Roger
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
[email protected] (Mike at American Sycamore) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "anthony diodati" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > I thought this weeks tip from WoodworkingTips.com , (woodsmith) was a
> > pretty good Idea, So I thought I'd pass it along.
> >
> > http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip031219sn.html
>
> Great tip...thanks for taking the time to share it with us.
> Happy woodworking
> thanks,
> Mike from American Sycamore

aM

[email protected] (Mike at American Sycamore)

in reply to "anthony diodati" on 19/12/2003 5:32 AM

19/12/2003 1:53 PM

"anthony diodati" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I thought this weeks tip from WoodworkingTips.com , (woodsmith) was a
> pretty good Idea, So I thought I'd pass it along.
>
> http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip031219sn.html

Great tip...thanks for taking the time to share it with us.
Happy woodworking
thanks,
Mike from American Sycamore

DF

Dave Fleming <>

in reply to "anthony diodati" on 19/12/2003 5:32 AM

22/12/2003 4:18 PM

>Gregg Germain <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>> I, myself, prefer to use a chisel. Making sure it slices and doesn't
>> break the plug.
>
> Yep, I tend to start off by taping around the plug with some of the
>blue "painter's tape", and then I take a flushcut saw and get it
>close. After that, it's just a few slicing motions approaching the
>plug from the outside towards the middle and you're good to go.
>
> The tape prevents scratches; if you're paying attention, you catch
>yourself as soon as you nick the tape rather than contacting the wood.
> Also, a crank-neck chisel is nice to have. You can keep the chisel
>from diving even when you're working in the middle of a wide piece.
>There the handle on a standard chisel tends to interfere with keeping
>the back flush to the work.
>
>
> Chuck Vance
I cannot guess at the number of plugs or bungs if you are on the East
Coast of the US., that I have 'slicked off'
Have a 2 inch socket firmer chisel, a Greenlee. that is just for that
purpose. Slight radius to cutting edge and first cuts are taken with
'BEVEL DOWN' not 'UP' as is usual practice.
This prevents grain tearout or the cut following a downward tending
grain pattern in the plug. I was taught a slight oblique angle of
attack if at all possible with a bit of a slicing motion.
Usually takes but 3 'slicks' to remove plug flush to surface of deck
or plank. I do believe that a wide blade does better at this than a
narrower one.
Tales of a Boatbuilder Apprentice
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/djf3rd/

DP

"Dan Parrell"

in reply to "anthony diodati" on 19/12/2003 5:32 AM

20/12/2003 10:43 PM

I bought one of those as well,a piece of tape pevents any scratches from the
Stanley pull saw
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 19 Dec 2003 05:32:50 -0500, "anthony diodati"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I thought this weeks tip from WoodworkingTips.com , (woodsmith) was a
> >pretty good Idea, So I thought I'd pass it along.
> >
> >http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip031219sn.html
> >
>
>
> I looked at that--don't need it. I bought an inexpensive Japanese
> flush-cut saw from Harbour Freight that makes cutting off plugs a
> snap. After I bought it, I wondered why I didn't buy one long ago.


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