da

"danh"

08/01/2004 1:45 AM

Cutting mitersin curved moulding

I am confused as to the best way to figure out the best miter with curved
moulding. I have 3 windows with elliptical tops. I have thought that maybe
I could somehow mount the moulding on some kind of base so that I can keep a
consistant line against the fence.

Here is a picture of the windows.

http://www.holoski.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album01&id=PC010031&op=modload&name=Home-Addition&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Danh


This topic has 9 replies

EM

Eddie Munster

in reply to "danh" on 08/01/2004 1:45 AM

16/01/2004 11:23 AM

Tom you are right but I think going a little bit further. .... Place the
vertical moulding on the wall up through the area of intersection and
trace down a real fin pencil line.. Then place the curved moulding in
place and mark the two "cut points" on each side of the moulding.

John

Tom Watson wrote:

>On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 01:45:59 GMT, "danh"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>>I am confused as to the best way to figure out the best miter with curved
>>moulding.
>>
>>
>
>Lay one profile over the other in the configuration that it will have
>when complete and cut on a line from the outside intersection to the
>inside intersection.
>
>
>Thomas J. Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
>(Real Email is tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet)
>http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/
>
>

TW

Tom Watson

in reply to "danh" on 08/01/2004 1:45 AM

08/01/2004 9:38 PM

On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 01:45:59 GMT, "danh"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I am confused as to the best way to figure out the best miter with curved
>moulding.

Lay one profile over the other in the configuration that it will have
when complete and cut on a line from the outside intersection to the
inside intersection.


Thomas J. Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
(Real Email is tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

GM

"George M. Kazaka"

in reply to "danh" on 08/01/2004 1:45 AM

07/01/2004 9:50 PM

Lets see if I can explain this that is easy to understand, if not I will
have to resort to a drawing.
what you do is layout the curve piece and trace it on a large paper or cheap
wood whatever.
Say the moulding is 2-1/2" wide, now draw the up and down lines that
represent the up & down moulding
drawer these two line which is also 2-1/2" wide past the curved lines Now
draw a line across the outer point to the inner point and that gives you the
angles Use an angle gauge to transfer the straight moulding angle to your
miter saw.

to cut the mitre on the curved molding get the angled line you have drawn
transferred to the mould cut this line a 1/4" big any way you want and set
the inner arch against the miter box fence and adjust the angle to the line
with your eye once set all the angle will be the same as long as the arch is
a section of a radius.

If my explanation is not clear enough let me know and I'll do a sketch or
two so it will be

Good Luck,
George

"danh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, there are two problems
>
> 1. How to figure the correct angle. It would be easy with 2 straight
> pieces, but with one curved it will be tougher. I plan to make some
> templates from scrap MDF to get the angle just right
>
> 2. How to hold a curved piece of moulding against a straight fence of
say,
> my SCMS so that I am assured of the proper angle for each cut
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> "George M. Kazaka" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Dan explain a little better what your looking for
> > How to cut the miter or what would the angle be
> >
> > George
> > "danh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I am confused as to the best way to figure out the best miter with
> curved
> > > moulding. I have 3 windows with elliptical tops. I have thought that
> > maybe
> > > I could somehow mount the moulding on some kind of base so that I can
> keep
> > a
> > > consistant line against the fence.
> > >
> > > Here is a picture of the windows.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.holoski.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album01&id=PC010031&op=modload&name=Home-Addition&file=index&include=view_photo.php
> > >
> > > Any thoughts?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Danh
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

da

"danh"

in reply to "danh" on 08/01/2004 1:45 AM

08/01/2004 3:51 AM

Well, there are two problems

1. How to figure the correct angle. It would be easy with 2 straight
pieces, but with one curved it will be tougher. I plan to make some
templates from scrap MDF to get the angle just right

2. How to hold a curved piece of moulding against a straight fence of say,
my SCMS so that I am assured of the proper angle for each cut

Dan



"George M. Kazaka" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dan explain a little better what your looking for
> How to cut the miter or what would the angle be
>
> George
> "danh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I am confused as to the best way to figure out the best miter with
curved
> > moulding. I have 3 windows with elliptical tops. I have thought that
> maybe
> > I could somehow mount the moulding on some kind of base so that I can
keep
> a
> > consistant line against the fence.
> >
> > Here is a picture of the windows.
> >
> >
>
http://www.holoski.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album01&id=PC010031&op=modload&name=Home-Addition&file=index&include=view_photo.php
> >
> > Any thoughts?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Danh
> >
> >
>
>

GM

"George M. Kazaka"

in reply to "danh" on 08/01/2004 1:45 AM

08/01/2004 7:29 PM

Lets see if I can explain this that is easy to understand, if not I will
have to resort to a drawing.
what you do is layout the curve piece and trace it on a large paper or cheap
wood whatever.
Say the moulding is 2-1/2" wide, now draw the up and down lines that
represent the up & down moulding
drawer these two line which is also 2-1/2" wide past the curved lines Now
draw a line across the outer point to the inner point and that gives you the
angles Use an angle gauge to transfer the straight moulding angle to your
miter saw.

to cut the mitre on the curved molding get the angled line you have drawn
transferred to the mould cut this line a 1/4" big any way you want and set
the inner arch against the miter box fence and adjust the angle to the line
with your eye once set all the angle will be the same as long as the arch is
a section of a radius.

If my explanation is not clear enough let me know and I'll do a sketch or
two so it will be

Good Luck,

"danh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, there are two problems
>
> 1. How to figure the correct angle. It would be easy with 2 straight
> pieces, but with one curved it will be tougher. I plan to make some
> templates from scrap MDF to get the angle just right
>
> 2. How to hold a curved piece of moulding against a straight fence of
say,
> my SCMS so that I am assured of the proper angle for each cut
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> "George M. Kazaka" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Dan explain a little better what your looking for
> > How to cut the miter or what would the angle be
> >
> > George
> > "danh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I am confused as to the best way to figure out the best miter with
> curved
> > > moulding. I have 3 windows with elliptical tops. I have thought that
> > maybe
> > > I could somehow mount the moulding on some kind of base so that I can
> keep
> > a
> > > consistant line against the fence.
> > >
> > > Here is a picture of the windows.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.holoski.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album01&id=PC010031&op=modload&name=Home-Addition&file=index&include=view_photo.php
> > >
> > > Any thoughts?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Danh
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

RM

Rodney Myrvaagnes

in reply to "danh" on 08/01/2004 1:45 AM

08/01/2004 2:32 PM

On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 01:45:59 GMT, "danh"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I am confused as to the best way to figure out the best miter with curved
>moulding. I have 3 windows with elliptical tops. I have thought that maybe
>I could somehow mount the moulding on some kind of base so that I can keep a
>consistant line against the fence.
>
>Here is a picture of the windows.
>
>http://www.holoski.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album01&id=PC010031&op=modload&name=Home-Addition&file=index&include=view_photo.php
>
Do you have to curve the moldings before joining up?

I remember an eliptical face-plate lathe for making mirror frames at
the old Schwamb Mill in Arlington, MA. I am sure it isn't the only
one, but even if it is the priciple is there.

The faceplate had a track on it with a sliding frame on which the work
was fixed. A crank on the end of the fixed axle connected to the
sliding member with a connecting rod. The lathe was belt-driven and
the oscillation determined the eccentricity of the ellipse.

An ellipse jig could move a router around a wood frame clamped to the
bench with similar results.

In either case, you could join up the wood with approximate miter
angles and cut the ends to fit after the molding is done.

I hope this makes sense in words. I don't have a web site to put a
sketch on.



>Any thoughts?
>
>Thanks
>
>Danh
>



Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a


Does one child rape really change Strom Thurmond's lifetime record?
For better or worse?

ER

"Eric Ryder"

in reply to "danh" on 08/01/2004 1:45 AM

08/01/2004 9:26 PM


"danh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am confused as to the best way to figure out the best miter with curved
> moulding. I have 3 windows with elliptical tops. I have thought that
maybe
> I could somehow mount the moulding on some kind of base so that I can keep
a
> consistant line against the fence.
>
> Here is a picture of the windows.
>
>
http://www.holoski.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album01&id=PC010031&op=modload&name=Home-Addition&file=index&include=view_photo.php
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks
>
> Danh
>
>

Windows like this are often trimmed with rosette blocks at the corners.
That said, if you want to miter the moulding (and assuming only a couple of
windows), hold up the overlong pieces and mark inner and outer intersections
on the wall and jambs. Then position the head casing and transfer the marks
and cut. I do these with a SCMS and don't use a full contact fence - just
the one point of contact. A sharp blade and gentle touch will get you
through it without having it snatched away. Cut the side casings overlong
and plane the miter for final fit. Fit the bottom last if picture framed

GM

"George M. Kazaka"

in reply to "danh" on 08/01/2004 1:45 AM

07/01/2004 8:43 PM

Dan explain a little better what your looking for
How to cut the miter or what would the angle be

George
"danh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am confused as to the best way to figure out the best miter with curved
> moulding. I have 3 windows with elliptical tops. I have thought that
maybe
> I could somehow mount the moulding on some kind of base so that I can keep
a
> consistant line against the fence.
>
> Here is a picture of the windows.
>
>
http://www.holoski.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album01&id=PC010031&op=modload&name=Home-Addition&file=index&include=view_photo.php
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks
>
> Danh
>
>

da

"danh"

in reply to "danh" on 08/01/2004 1:45 AM

09/01/2004 12:32 AM

Yes the moulding was manufactured curved

danh


"Rodney Myrvaagnes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 01:45:59 GMT, "danh"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I am confused as to the best way to figure out the best miter with curved
> >moulding. I have 3 windows with elliptical tops. I have thought that
maybe
> >I could somehow mount the moulding on some kind of base so that I can
keep a
> >consistant line against the fence.
> >
> >Here is a picture of the windows.
> >
>
>http://www.holoski.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album01&id=PC010031&op=mod
load&name=Home-Addition&file=index&include=view_photo.php
> >
> Do you have to curve the moldings before joining up?
>
> I remember an eliptical face-plate lathe for making mirror frames at
> the old Schwamb Mill in Arlington, MA. I am sure it isn't the only
> one, but even if it is the priciple is there.
>
> The faceplate had a track on it with a sliding frame on which the work
> was fixed. A crank on the end of the fixed axle connected to the
> sliding member with a connecting rod. The lathe was belt-driven and
> the oscillation determined the eccentricity of the ellipse.
>
> An ellipse jig could move a router around a wood frame clamped to the
> bench with similar results.
>
> In either case, you could join up the wood with approximate miter
> angles and cut the ends to fit after the molding is done.
>
> I hope this makes sense in words. I don't have a web site to put a
> sketch on.
>
>
>
> >Any thoughts?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Danh
> >
>
>
>
> Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a
>
>
> Does one child rape really change Strom Thurmond's lifetime record?
> For better or worse?


You’ve reached the end of replies