My 4.5amp SKIL 3/8" keyless-chuck drill burned-up last night while I
was trying to drill some 3/16" holes in masonry. (Yes... I was using a
masonry bit). The drill is about two years old, but I only use it on
weekends -- and usually only on soft wood. I'll be doing more work
this year, though, and I'd like something that is heavy-duty-enough to
handle work in hardwoods and soft metals -- with the occasional
excursion into masonry and thin steel. My thanks for your
recommendations.
You really need a "hammer" drill if you are going to do much
masonry drilling since that is how the bits are designed to work.
I have done my share of hole drilling without the hammer drill (up to
1/2")
but burned out a lot of bits. I now have a Milwaukee 3/8" drill that can
switch from hammer drill mode to non-hammer mode and it works soooo much
better.
I expect I have more than saved the extra cost for the hammer option by
not
buying and burning as many bits. It's up to you to decide the economy of
burned bits versus the hammer option. Quality drills are all over $100
but it's one of those cry once now or cry later when you have to replace
a
cheaper drill....
-Bruce
hdmundt wrote:
>
> My 4.5amp SKIL 3/8" keyless-chuck drill burned-up last night while I
> was trying to drill some 3/16" holes in masonry. (Yes... I was using a
> masonry bit). The drill is about two years old, but I only use it on
> weekends -- and usually only on soft wood. I'll be doing more work
> this year, though, and I'd like something that is heavy-duty-enough to
> handle work in hardwoods and soft metals -- with the occasional
> excursion into masonry and thin steel. My thanks for your
> recommendations.
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> I'm also in the market for a replacement of my 30 year-old Skil. Hoever,
> $150 is a bit steep for me. What would be the best in the $90-100 range?
Makita makes a 1/2" hammer-drill for about $90 available at home centers.
If overloaded and damaged, it's not worth repairing.
However, it's fairly light, can be switched between hammer and drill mode,
and comes with a plastic case.
I recently used it to substitute for a 7/8" rotary hammer when it conked out
on a job.
Bridger <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 5 Jan 2004 19:16:43 -0800, [email protected] (hdmundt) wrote:
>
>>My 4.5amp SKIL 3/8" keyless-chuck drill burned-up last night while I
>>was trying to drill some 3/16" holes in masonry. (Yes... I was using a
>>masonry bit). The drill is about two years old, but I only use it on
>>weekends -- and usually only on soft wood. I'll be doing more work
>>this year, though, and I'd like something that is heavy-duty-enough to
>>handle work in hardwoods and soft metals -- with the occasional
>>excursion into masonry and thin steel. My thanks for your
>>recommendations.
>
>
>
>
> https://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/met/html/ima
> ges/largeprod/5397-6-lg.jpg
>
I'm also in the market for a replacement of my 30 year-old Skil. Hoever,
$150 is a bit steep for me. What would be the best in the $90-100 range?
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
[email protected] (Tom Kendrick) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>> I'm also in the market for a replacement of my 30 year-old Skil.
>> Hoever, $150 is a bit steep for me. What would be the best in the
>> $90-100 range?
>
> Makita makes a 1/2" hammer-drill for about $90 available at home
> centers. If overloaded and damaged, it's not worth repairing.
>
> However, it's fairly light, can be switched between hammer and drill
> mode, and comes with a plastic case.
>
> I recently used it to substitute for a 7/8" rotary hammer when it
> conked out on a job.
Thanks Tom!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On 5 Jan 2004 19:16:43 -0800, [email protected] (hdmundt) wrote:
>My 4.5amp SKIL 3/8" keyless-chuck drill burned-up last night while I
>was trying to drill some 3/16" holes in masonry. (Yes... I was using a
>masonry bit). The drill is about two years old, but I only use it on
>weekends -- and usually only on soft wood. I'll be doing more work
>this year, though, and I'd like something that is heavy-duty-enough to
>handle work in hardwoods and soft metals -- with the occasional
>excursion into masonry and thin steel. My thanks for your
>recommendations.
https://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/met/html/images/largeprod/5397-6-lg.jpg
Get a 1/2 inch drill for heavy duty stuff Get GOOD 3/8 inch drills,
and avoid the really cheap stuff at places like HD or Lowes no matter
what the amp rating
3/8 inch is lighter in weight and the low end 3/8 drills just are not
up to drilling masonry. My PC 3/8 is also rated at 4.5a but my 1/2
Milwaukee is rated at 7.5a
John
On 5 Jan 2004 19:16:43 -0800, [email protected] (hdmundt) wrote:
>My 4.5amp SKIL 3/8" keyless-chuck drill burned-up last night while I
>was trying to drill some 3/16" holes in masonry. (Yes... I was using a
>masonry bit). The drill is about two years old, but I only use it on
>weekends -- and usually only on soft wood. I'll be doing more work
>this year, though, and I'd like something that is heavy-duty-enough to
>handle work in hardwoods and soft metals -- with the occasional
>excursion into masonry and thin steel. My thanks for your
>recommendations.