I just completed cutting an intarsia pattern of a hummingbird and flowers. I
was using 25 tpi blades that the package said were for extra sharp turns and
marquetry in soft woods up to 3/4". In the process of cutting out the pattern,
I broke 6 blades (3/4" pine). Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
They were craftsman pin-end blades.
Are there better blades out there? I have plain end adapters for the scroll
saw (older Dremel 16" 2 spd).
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Kevin Daly
"Kevin Daly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just completed cutting an intarsia pattern of a hummingbird and flowers.
I
> was using 25 tpi blades that the package said were for extra sharp turns
and
> marquetry in soft woods up to 3/4". In the process of cutting out the
pattern,
> I broke 6 blades (3/4" pine). Is this normal or am I doing something
wrong?
> They were craftsman pin-end blades.
> Are there better blades out there? I have plain end adapters for the
scroll
> saw (older Dremel 16" 2 spd).
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Kevin Daly
IMHO I think that is far too many teeth for that thickness of wood, the
problem you face is you can't get the waste out efficiently so most of the
teeth just clog. As a matter of interest take a short cut of say an 1" and
then feel how hot the blade is; it gets too hot and it loses its temper.
The other thing you need to watch is how much pressure you are putting on
the blade, those type of blades can't take much pressure.
In your position I would do some experimenting, first try much thinner wood
and gradually work up in thickness, also try different tpi.
Bernard R
Best answer. And a lot fewer teeth may be the case at faster speeds. Pine
is also a bit resinous at times, which puts an additional drag on the blade.
As to breaking, the most common cause I see with the kids at school is they
are turning without feeding. Even with the narrowest of blades, that's a
recipe for disaster. Anticipate direction changes and lead them for best
cut and least strain on the blade.
"Bernard Randall" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Kevin Daly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> IMHO I think that is far too many teeth for that thickness of wood, the
> problem you face is you can't get the waste out efficiently so most of the
> teeth just clog. As a matter of interest take a short cut of say an 1"
and
> then feel how hot the blade is; it gets too hot and it loses its temper.
> The other thing you need to watch is how much pressure you are putting on
> the blade, those type of blades can't take much pressure.
>
> In your position I would do some experimenting, first try much thinner
wood
> and gradually work up in thickness, also try different tpi.
>
> Bernard R
>
>
macyver wrote:
> Don't know if this helps But I too am breaking an inordinate amount of
> blades. I use American vermont blades. One thing that I did to slow the
Me three. I seem to break six blades on every piddly little project, and
I'm already feeding the work really slowly, with the motor dialed down to
its lowest speed, being careful not to crowd it, and making sure the blade
is only just twangy tight.
I feel like I'd break fewer blades and be able to cut two or three times
faster with a coping saw. My crawl saw is my least favorite machine by
far.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Slow down, it takes practice.
After a while you'll be able to select the appropriate blade for the job
based on experience. Check your blade allignment, it should go straight up
and down (from the side and from the front). If the blade has an angular
movement, you are likely to break more blades. Slow the motor down too (if
you can). Generally speaking, good plain end blades are better than pin end.
Start with courser blades and work toward finer blades as your experience
increases. You'll know you're there when you wear out more blades than you
break.
Yes it is normal for the blade to cut straight at about 11 o'clock. The
blades are machine cut with a burr on that side - better quality blades have
a smaller bur or none at all.
"macyver" <@NOSPAMverizon.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Don't know if this helps But I too am breaking an inordinate amount of
> blades. I use American vermont blades. One thing that I did to slow the
> blade breaking process was to check the tension of the blade and control
my
> feed rate better. This seemed to help a good bit. I also use the thinnest
> blades for intricate turns. Spiral blades are great for tight turns but if
> your not careful you can mar your stock. And if anyone out there is
reading
> this, why does it seem that my scroller blade always want to twist? It
seems
> well it is that I am having to push to the 11 Oclock position to stay
> straight?
>
> I hope we both get the help
>
> Rich
> "Kevin Daly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I just completed cutting an intarsia pattern of a hummingbird and
flowers.
> I
> > was using 25 tpi blades that the package said were for extra sharp turns
> and
> > marquetry in soft woods up to 3/4". In the process of cutting out the
> pattern,
> > I broke 6 blades (3/4" pine). Is this normal or am I doing something
> wrong?
> > They were craftsman pin-end blades.
> > Are there better blades out there? I have plain end adapters for the
> scroll
> > saw (older Dremel 16" 2 spd).
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Kevin Daly
>
>
Don't know if this helps But I too am breaking an inordinate amount of
blades. I use American vermont blades. One thing that I did to slow the
blade breaking process was to check the tension of the blade and control my
feed rate better. This seemed to help a good bit. I also use the thinnest
blades for intricate turns. Spiral blades are great for tight turns but if
your not careful you can mar your stock. And if anyone out there is reading
this, why does it seem that my scroller blade always want to twist? It seems
well it is that I am having to push to the 11 Oclock position to stay
straight?
I hope we both get the help
Rich
"Kevin Daly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just completed cutting an intarsia pattern of a hummingbird and flowers.
I
> was using 25 tpi blades that the package said were for extra sharp turns
and
> marquetry in soft woods up to 3/4". In the process of cutting out the
pattern,
> I broke 6 blades (3/4" pine). Is this normal or am I doing something
wrong?
> They were craftsman pin-end blades.
> Are there better blades out there? I have plain end adapters for the
scroll
> saw (older Dremel 16" 2 spd).
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Kevin Daly
Kevin,
Same reply as the others who have gone through this before. Slow down! Let
the blade do the cutting. The blade needs to cut the stock you cannot push
the blade through the stock. The more you push the more the blade heats up
from friction that weakens the metal. Finer blades are good but they need
longer to cut through thick pieces of wood. The reason they said that that
blade was good for marquetry is that they are talking about the blade going
through thin pieces of stacked wood. The finer blade would cut the edges
cleaner (smoother). But you are going through 3/4" solid pine. You could use
another blade and do better such as a reverse skip tooth with fewer teeth
per inch. Just remember the fewer the teeth the coarser the cut. So you
don't want to go to few of teeth.
Roy
"Kevin Daly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just completed cutting an intarsia pattern of a hummingbird and flowers.
I
> was using 25 tpi blades that the package said were for extra sharp turns
and
> marquetry in soft woods up to 3/4". In the process of cutting out the
pattern,
> I broke 6 blades (3/4" pine). Is this normal or am I doing something
wrong?
> They were craftsman pin-end blades.
> Are there better blades out there? I have plain end adapters for the
scroll
> saw (older Dremel 16" 2 spd).
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Kevin Daly
"macyver" <@NOSPAMverizon.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Don't know if this helps But I too am breaking an inordinate amount of
> blades. I use American vermont blades. One thing that I did to slow the
> blade breaking process was to check the tension of the blade and control
my
> feed rate better. This seemed to help a good bit. I also use the thinnest
> blades for intricate turns. Spiral blades are great for tight turns but if
> your not careful you can mar your stock. And if anyone out there is
reading
> this, why does it seem that my scroller blade always want to twist? It
seems
> well it is that I am having to push to the 11 Oclock position to stay
> straight?
>
> I hope we both get the help
>
> Rich
>
Rich,
This is caused by two problems. One is the saw the other is the tension. It
sounds like you have experimented with tension already so it may be the saw.
Less expensive saws present the saw at an angle to the stock. That is the
blade does not travel straight up and down. So what happens is the leading
edge that has the pressure on it from you pushing against it will deflect to
one side causing it to not cut straight. See if you can make any adjustments
to compensate for the blade travel. If not you will have to really slow down
the cut. More agressive blades may help a little too.
Roy
One other thing I've found that works for me, especially in hard woods, is
to use packing tape on top of the pattern ( even if you've already used some
kind of contact cement to hold the pattern down ). Sometimes, I even put
tape on both sides of the wood. The tape helps lubricate the blade a little
bit, but it will not help with chip/dust removal.
I've had a lot of luck using this method on similar projects. Look at the
very bottom of the page at http://www.woodenschu.com/scroll_work.htm. Both
of those were cut from 3/4" ash.
Good Luck,
tms
"Kevin Daly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just completed cutting an intarsia pattern of a hummingbird and flowers.
I
> was using 25 tpi blades that the package said were for extra sharp turns
and
> marquetry in soft woods up to 3/4". In the process of cutting out the
pattern,
> I broke 6 blades (3/4" pine). Is this normal or am I doing something
wrong?
> They were craftsman pin-end blades.
> Are there better blades out there? I have plain end adapters for the
scroll
> saw (older Dremel 16" 2 spd).
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Kevin Daly
...
> Yes it is normal for the blade to cut straight at about 11 o'clock. The
> blades are machine cut with a burr on that side - better quality blades
have
> a smaller bur or none at all.
>
...
Well, I'll be danged! I thought it was just me! :-{} I never considered
asking anyone about it - just figured it was either my fault of the saw was
screwy somehow. You won't believe how many times I've tried to see if the
blade was straight, twisted, out of alignment, dirt in the holders, etc etc
etc..
Learned something: Guess I can go back to bed now!
Pop