If used car finishes on furniture, and I've also sprayed a dozen cars
with lacquer. The general principle is that the "hottest" finish cannot
be on top.
Lacquer (and Lacq thinner) are the hottest finishes around and will
"lift" compounds under it if they are less volatile.
One way around this is to spray a sealer first, let dry thoroughly, and
then use the lacquer. I would try this on a piece of scap wood.
Incompatible finishes might look OK for weeks and then begin to checker
or peel.
Gary Curtis
<tdevery> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> I would like to spray nitrocellulose lacquer over Oil stain. Any
compatability
> issues?
> The stain is now 24 hrs dry. Thanks
>
No problems. Most high end guitars are finished exactly this way. Just
know that nitro does not harden for a really long time and can "rub up" a
little bit with use. It's not a problem in any way, but don't be alarmed if
you encounter it. I had an electric guitar custom made a while ago and it
was nitro finished. I used to get a little gumming on the neck after
playing it for a while. The gumming rubbed off with a dry rag and all was
well, but it is a characteristic of nitro. After a while this went away, as
the nitro cured completely.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
<tdevery> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> I would like to spray nitrocellulose lacquer over Oil stain. Any
> compatability issues?
> The stain is now 24 hrs dry. Thanks
I wouldn't think that you would have a problem with stain, but you may want
to try a test piece first. Today I sprayed lacquer on a walnut picture
frame that I had coated last week with Medium Walnut Watco oil (I like the
color it gives). No problems at all.
-G
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If used car finishes on furniture, and I've also sprayed a dozen cars
> with lacquer. The general principle is that the "hottest" finish cannot
> be on top.
>
> Lacquer (and Lacq thinner) are the hottest finishes around and will
> "lift" compounds under it if they are less volatile.
>
> One way around this is to spray a sealer first, let dry thoroughly, and
> then use the lacquer. I would try this on a piece of scap wood.
>
> Incompatible finishes might look OK for weeks and then begin to checker
> or peel.
>
> Gary Curtis
>
If you have prolems with the above try using shellac instead of a laquer
sealer ,then the laquer finish coats .
In article <[email protected]>, <tdevery> wrote:
>
> I would like to spray nitrocellulose lacquer over Oil stain. Any
> compatability
> issues?
> The stain is now 24 hrs dry. Thanks
Whadday mean 'oil' stain?
I have sprayed bezillions of gallons of lacquer on stains like
Minwax and such... they're oil based. Not a problem.
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>In article <[email protected]>, <tdevery> wrote:
>
>>
>> I would like to spray nitrocellulose lacquer over Oil stain. Any
>> compatability
>> issues?
>> The stain is now 24 hrs dry. Thanks
>
>Whadday mean 'oil' stain?
>
>I have sprayed bezillions of gallons of lacquer on stains like
>Minwax and such... they're oil based. Not a problem.
Sorry for the term "oil stain"
I am a Hardwood floor refinisher, and we call it oil stain.
It is Pittsburg paints Gunstock stain. I use it to match hardwood floor stains.
It is highly pigmented. I put this into sanding sealer for the first wash coat.
Then sanded it with 220 grit. It is over ASH.
Then stained with Gunstock. Dried two days by now.
Ba r r y <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 24 Dec 2005 18:46:42 -0600, <tdevery> wrote:
>
>>
>>I would like to spray nitrocellulose lacquer over Oil stain. Any
>>compatability
>>issues?
>
>A barrier coat of Seal Coat couldn't hurt.
>
>Barry
Barry:
Sealcoat is something I am VERY familiar with. I use it on flooring work.
Love that I can apply waterborne or oil poly over it.
I guess one very thin brushed on coat, then lightly scuff with a maroon scotch
brite pad. Then spray on lacquer