I am making a pair of thimble cabinets to match several others that already
exist for a friend for his mother. The originals are 300 miles away, so I am
working form photographs and a rough sketch. The material is white pine.
The woodworking phase is done and I am pleased with that part of the project.
Getting the stained finish dark enough is another story. I choose Minwax Dark
Walnut because I wanted a dark brown color. I followed the directions for
prepping the wood with the Minwax sealer. Within the specified time period, I
applied the stain, waited about fifteen minutes and wiped the pieces down.
Problem #1, the color was much to light.
Problem #2, the project took three days to feel dry.
I over coated the stain today and things got a little darker and seemed to dry
much more quickly. Some pieces, however, seemed to get a little blotchy.
My question is: how many coats of stain will I need to make the wood dark, real
dark, kind of like old furniture dark? The color I am looking for is like the
stain when it goes on wet. I said, "dark". Can I reapply the stain within the 4
to 6 hour time frame indicated on the can, even if the surface does not feel
bone dry to me?
The cabinets will be top coated with shellac, which will darken things a
little, but I don't want to even think about this until I am a lot closer to
the hue that I am looking for.
TIA.
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA
[email protected]
I used to use Jacobean when it had to be really dark. Two coats usually
enough. You might want to let it cure fully, so it won't be dissolved by
the next coat.
Was the pine KD and resin set? Air-dried has a tendency to reject stain a
bit more.
"Bill Waller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making a pair of thimble cabinets to match several others that
already
> exist for a friend for his mother. The originals are 300 miles away, so I
am
> working form photographs and a rough sketch. The material is white pine.
>
> The woodworking phase is done and I am pleased with that part of the
project.
> Getting the stained finish dark enough is another story. I choose Minwax
Dark
> Walnut because I wanted a dark brown color. I followed the directions for
> prepping the wood with the Minwax sealer. Within the specified time
period, I
> applied the stain, waited about fifteen minutes and wiped the pieces down.
>
> Problem #1, the color was much to light.
> Problem #2, the project took three days to feel dry.
>
> I over coated the stain today and things got a little darker and seemed to
dry
> much more quickly. Some pieces, however, seemed to get a little blotchy.
>
> My question is: how many coats of stain will I need to make the wood dark,
real
> dark, kind of like old furniture dark? The color I am looking for is like
the
> stain when it goes on wet. I said, "dark". Can I reapply the stain within
the 4
> to 6 hour time frame indicated on the can, even if the surface does not
feel
> bone dry to me?
>
> The cabinets will be top coated with shellac, which will darken things a
> little, but I don't want to even think about this until I am a lot closer
to
> the hue that I am looking for.
>
> TIA.
>
>
> Bill Waller
> New Eagle, PA
>
> [email protected]
I use white pine for all my projects and staining as always been an
issue. I recently used Varathane Gel stain and I'm very pleased with
the results. I find it easier to apply than Minwax and the stain
being in a gel form can be applied to obtain a darker uniform color.
I also found it easier to fix areas that were lighter in color.
Minwax is like water and some areas will absorb the stain to fast.
The only problem I have now is finding protective gloves that will
resist. I like to apply stain by hand with a cloth.
Bill Waller <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I am making a pair of thimble cabinets to match several others that already
> exist for a friend for his mother. The originals are 300 miles away, so I am
> working form photographs and a rough sketch. The material is white pine.
>
> The woodworking phase is done and I am pleased with that part of the project.
> Getting the stained finish dark enough is another story. I choose Minwax Dark
> Walnut because I wanted a dark brown color. I followed the directions for
> prepping the wood with the Minwax sealer. Within the specified time period, I
> applied the stain, waited about fifteen minutes and wiped the pieces down.
>
> Problem #1, the color was much to light.
> Problem #2, the project took three days to feel dry.
>
> I over coated the stain today and things got a little darker and seemed to dry
> much more quickly. Some pieces, however, seemed to get a little blotchy.
>
> My question is: how many coats of stain will I need to make the wood dark, real
> dark, kind of like old furniture dark? The color I am looking for is like the
> stain when it goes on wet. I said, "dark". Can I reapply the stain within the 4
> to 6 hour time frame indicated on the can, even if the surface does not feel
> bone dry to me?
>
> The cabinets will be top coated with shellac, which will darken things a
> little, but I don't want to even think about this until I am a lot closer to
> the hue that I am looking for.
>
> TIA.
>
>
> Bill Waller
> New Eagle, PA
>
> [email protected]
Thanks for the tip on Ebony from Minwax. It did what I was looking for.
On Wed, 26 May 2004 22:33:21 GMT, "cjrost" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Minwax makes an ebony stain if you can find it in stock. Its basically
>"black" in tone. For a really black look, try a black or brown tint dye
>first and then cover with the regular stain. This worked out well for me on
>4 book-cases that sat on either side of a black entertainment center. Good
>luck.
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA
[email protected]
To achieve a darker color, meaning more intense, you will need to apply
toner coats. Since you intend to use shellac, this is quite easy. You can
try applying a naturally darker shellac such as Garnet or you can make a
toner yourself. The easiest way is to add a few drops of the appropriate
color TransTint, available from many catalogs and on-line suppliers, to some
shellac. I would seal in your stained wood first with some uncolored
shellac in case you make a mistake. It will be easier to completely remove
the toner.
Many coats of any film finish are not used to make furniture darker. A
coat or two of toner is what manufacturers and professional refinishers use.
Take some scrap and do your full finish schedule on it. Applying the
shellac topcoats will be necessary to determine how it will really look.
Some wood dyes can appear dead until a topcoat is applied.
As for the three days to feel dry, did you wipe down the stained board
several times before the drying time started? Minwax is an oil based
pigment and dye stain. It is very important to wipe off all the excess
before allowing it to dry. Do not try to make the piece darker by leaving
excess stain on the wood. You can always apply a second coat after the
first one dries.
The blotchiness is not unusual with pine. It is just easier to see
after a film finish is applied. You are on the right track with the
prestain. You may need to go to something, on a fresh piece, stronger such
as a spit coat of shellac.
Good Luck.
"Bill Waller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making a pair of thimble cabinets to match several others that
already
> exist for a friend for his mother. The originals are 300 miles away, so I
am
> working form photographs and a rough sketch. The material is white pine.
>
> The woodworking phase is done and I am pleased with that part of the
project.
> Getting the stained finish dark enough is another story. I choose Minwax
Dark
> Walnut because I wanted a dark brown color. I followed the directions for
> prepping the wood with the Minwax sealer. Within the specified time
period, I
> applied the stain, waited about fifteen minutes and wiped the pieces down.
>
> Problem #1, the color was much to light.
> Problem #2, the project took three days to feel dry.
>
> I over coated the stain today and things got a little darker and seemed to
dry
> much more quickly. Some pieces, however, seemed to get a little blotchy.
>
> My question is: how many coats of stain will I need to make the wood dark,
real
> dark, kind of like old furniture dark? The color I am looking for is like
the
> stain when it goes on wet. I said, "dark". Can I reapply the stain within
the 4
> to 6 hour time frame indicated on the can, even if the surface does not
feel
> bone dry to me?
>
> The cabinets will be top coated with shellac, which will darken things a
> little, but I don't want to even think about this until I am a lot closer
to
> the hue that I am looking for.
>
> TIA.
>
>
> Bill Waller
> New Eagle, PA
>
> [email protected]
"Bill Waller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Problem #1, the color was much to light.
> Problem #2, the project took three days to feel dry.
Light and dark is subjective. IMO, the walnut is too dark. They also have a
stain called "Special Walnut" that may or may not be suitable.
>
> My question is: how many coats of stain will I need to make the wood dark,
real
> dark, kind of like old furniture dark?
I don't have a clue.
> The color I am looking for is like the
> stain when it goes on wet. I said, "dark". Can I reapply the stain within
the 4
> to 6 hour time frame indicated on the can, even if the surface does not
feel
> bone dry to me?
Yes
Ed