Shop wiring question

Hi Nick,

For some reason, it looks as if my post was bolted on to an old post.
Here is something to consider. My friend is an electrician and he
suggested running a split duplex circuit. The idea is that two
circuits run through the same plug. You can plug in a saw or a drill
into the same outlet.

Keith

Keith -
Thought I'd replied to this last night, but I don't see it - I probably
replied to the wrong post -

John's answer (above) is right - You can get a product at the Borg or Lowes
called "Liquid Nails". It comes in a tube like caulking, fits into a
standard size caulking gun. I used it to anchor the floor/sill plates on a
build-out I did in a basement. I framed in a family room, hall, and two
bedrooms with closets using this stuff to anchor the frame. It holds like
iron. The only way you'll get the wall to move is to chop it down.

Put it on the bare concrete - paint after you've anchored the bottom plate.
I just framed them up like an exterior wall, applied a bead line or two, and
tilted the wall up, and nailed off the top plate to the ceiling joists.

As far as the electric goes, I'm no electrician, but my choice in my garage
shop is 4-plug outlet boxes. I'm going to put them on the outside of the
walls in flexible conduit so I can move them if I need to.

Hope it works out for you -

Nick B

"Keith Bozek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am in a newly built home in Western New York. I just bought the new
> Rigid table saw from Home Depot - not a Powermatic but good enough for
> me. I have two questions:
>
> STUD PLATE:
> I need to wire a small shop. I have single outlet at the panel. I
> will need walls to attach wires (see errata below for reasons). I
> want to glue the P.T. stud plate. I saw a message thread that talked
> about gluing the stud plate to the floor rather than nailing it(I have
> used a Hilti gun and it obliterates the concrete). How much and what
> type of glue is needed. I am also planning to paint the floor before
> affixing stud plate.
>
> OUTLET TYPE:
> Should I use box outlets or should I use a strip?
>
> ERRATA:
> As per code here - I have an insulated vapor barrier down 75% of the
> wall. It extends out approximately three inches from the wall. I
> also have a floating slab meaning there is a two inch gap between the
> wall and the slab that allows for drainage all flowing into the sump.
> The shop has the sump - bummer. I like the idea of a 4x4 notched
> plate.

Can't help with specifics from here in UK but don't paint the floor before
gluing the wall timber down otherwise you just glue to the paint which can
then lift. You want to glue directly to the concrete.
Our product is called "No Nails" and it works well for this application. I
think yours is called construction adhesive but check with others first.

John

"Keith Bozek" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am in a newly built home in Western New York. I just bought the new
> Rigid table saw from Home Depot - not a Powermatic but good enough for
> me. I have two questions:
>
> STUD PLATE:
> I need to wire a small shop. I have single outlet at the panel. I
> will need walls to attach wires (see errata below for reasons). I
> want to glue the P.T. stud plate. I saw a message thread that talked
> about gluing the stud plate to the floor rather than nailing it(I have
> used a Hilti gun and it obliterates the concrete). How much and what
> type of glue is needed. I am also planning to paint the floor before
> affixing stud plate.
>
> OUTLET TYPE:
> Should I use box outlets or should I use a strip?
>
> ERRATA:
> As per code here - I have an insulated vapor barrier down 75% of the
> wall. It extends out approximately three inches from the wall. I
> also have a floating slab meaning there is a two inch gap between the
> wall and the slab that allows for drainage all flowing into the sump.
> The shop has the sump - bummer. I like the idea of a 4x4 notched
> plate.