My oak plywood desktop is progressing. I've been trying to find more
info on which and how many biscuits to use for the solid oak face
molding. The top is 3/4" oak ply and the molding is 3/4" by 1x1/2"
solid red oak. I will let the molding overhang the bottom of the
countertop so I only have max 3/4" heigth and 3/4" deep to hold a
biscuit. My friend told me to use FF biscuits and space them about
10" apart on a 10' span. Being inquisitive, I just wanted to know
more about sizes, tolerances, spacing, quantity, etc.. Anyone have
any good places to look and\or have any tips for my project?
Thanks,
Chris
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Chris) wrote:
>My oak plywood desktop is progressing. I've been trying to find more
>info on which and how many biscuits to use for the solid oak face
>molding. The top is 3/4" oak ply and the molding is 3/4" by 1x1/2"
>solid red oak. I will let the molding overhang the bottom of the
>countertop so I only have max 3/4" heigth and 3/4" deep to hold a
>biscuit. My friend told me to use FF biscuits and space them about
>10" apart on a 10' span. Being inquisitive, I just wanted to know
>more about sizes, tolerances, spacing, quantity, etc.. Anyone have
>any good places to look and\or have any tips for my project?
>
Your friend's advice is IMO under-engineered.
FF biscuits are for assembling a face frame: they are narrow enough that the
biscuit slot will fit entirely within the width of a normal rail or stile. For
attaching the face frame to a cabinet you should use larger biscuits such as a
#10 or #20. (General rule is to use the largest biscuit that will fit, on the
theory that the more surface area you have for glue, the better off you are.)
The manual for my biscuit joiner recommends intervals of approximately 6".
Probably a 10" interval won't be a problem with a #20 biscuit, but I sure
wouldn't space those teeny-tiny FF biscuits that far apart.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
> The slots tend to stay straighter when I flip the boards over, reference
> faces down, and register off of the bottom of the tool, when appropriate.
>
> But as I said, this is really a minor thing, and certainly not something
> about which to argue.
>
> Patriarch
I'm going to have to go play with my tool now. I just cannot imagine using
it your way with accuracy. What counts though, is the final result.
Ed
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My oak plywood desktop is progressing. I've been trying to find more
> info on which and how many biscuits to use for the solid oak face
> molding. The top is 3/4" oak ply and the molding is 3/4" by 1x1/2"
> solid red oak. I will let the molding overhang the bottom of the
> countertop so I only have max 3/4" heigth and 3/4" deep to hold a
> biscuit.
I agree with the others as far as spacing and #2 biscuits.
One tip though. Cutting the slots in the plywood is going to be easy as
there is plenty of surface for the fence to sit on. Not so with the 3/4"
trim.
Stack a couple of pieces together and clamp them. Now you have a wider
surface and a more accurate cut for proper alignment. Use scrap if need be
to get the thickness enough to offer good support to the fence.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
.
"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
> So, Ed, you are suggesting registering using the fence to the edge of the
> trim piece? Why not register using the base against the benchtop or a
> bench hook? Seems to offer a more reliable means, with fewer things to
> adjust incorrectly, in my limited experience. And it puts the biscuit in
> the middle of 3/4 stock just fine, does it not?
>
> This is not a major point of contention, by any means. Thanks for your
> many reasoned, thoughtful contributions to this, and other, USENET forums.
>
> Patriarch
Do you have the plate joiner yet? If not, I can understand your question.
They are designed to be used by registering the fence on the top of the wood
and the cut is below. Like any tool, it must be checked for accuracy and
adjusted if needed. Mine needed a minor adjustment of the scale.
OK, I have a DeWalt, others may differ slightly. Lets say I have a piece
of 3/4' plywood.and want to center a biscuit. I set the scale to 3/8" (half
of 3/4) and I'm ready.
Step one it so put the two pieces together and make a pencil mark where I
want the biscuit to be when joined. Just a line across both pieces. I
set the fence on the plywood, hold it firmly, squeeze the trigger and push
in the make the cut. I can cut all along the wood and have the same spacing.
Now I do the piece to be joined, again registering from the top, and I have
a perfect alignment if I did my job correctly.
My particular tool is designed to be used that way. If I was to slide it on
a table top or bench, it would not always be perfectly parallel. Why? The
bottom of the tool is not flat and I can easily induce error. Without a
trip to the shop, I have no idea what the scale from the bottom can even be
set to.
Why is the tool designed that way? Not every joint is made on the
workbench. Let's say you are making a rectangular frame and you want to
join the four pieces. The cuts will be on the edge for one piece but the
face of the mate. Face is not easily done on a bench, nor may it be as
accurate as registration with the fence from the top.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snippage>
> One tip though. Cutting the slots in the plywood is going to be easy
> as there is plenty of surface for the fence to sit on. Not so with
> the 3/4" trim.
>
> Stack a couple of pieces together and clamp them. Now you have a
> wider surface and a more accurate cut for proper alignment. Use scrap
> if need be to get the thickness enough to offer good support to the
> fence. Ed
So, Ed, you are suggesting registering using the fence to the edge of the
trim piece? Why not register using the base against the benchtop or a
bench hook? Seems to offer a more reliable means, with fewer things to
adjust incorrectly, in my limited experience. And it puts the biscuit in
the middle of 3/4 stock just fine, does it not?
This is not a major point of contention, by any means. Thanks for your
many reasoned, thoughtful contributions to this, and other, USENET forums.
Patriarch
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> "patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in
> message
>
>> So, Ed, you are suggesting registering using the fence to the edge of
>> the trim piece? Why not register using the base against the benchtop
>> or a bench hook? Seems to offer a more reliable means, with fewer
>> things to adjust incorrectly, in my limited experience. And it puts
>> the biscuit in the middle of 3/4 stock just fine, does it not?
>>
>> This is not a major point of contention, by any means. Thanks for
>> your many reasoned, thoughtful contributions to this, and other,
>> USENET forums.
>>
>> Patriarch
>
> Do you have the plate joiner yet? If not, I can understand your
> question. They are designed to be used by registering the fence on the
> top of the wood and the cut is below. Like any tool, it must be
> checked for accuracy and adjusted if needed. Mine needed a minor
> adjustment of the scale.
>
> OK, I have a DeWalt, others may differ slightly. Lets say I have a
> piece of 3/4' plywood.and want to center a biscuit. I set the scale
> to 3/8" (half of 3/4) and I'm ready.
>
> Step one it so put the two pieces together and make a pencil mark
> where I want the biscuit to be when joined. Just a line across both
> pieces. I set the fence on the plywood, hold it firmly, squeeze the
> trigger and push in the make the cut. I can cut all along the wood and
> have the same spacing. Now I do the piece to be joined, again
> registering from the top, and I have a perfect alignment if I did my
> job correctly.
>
> My particular tool is designed to be used that way. If I was to slide
> it on a table top or bench, it would not always be perfectly parallel.
> Why? The bottom of the tool is not flat and I can easily induce
> error. Without a trip to the shop, I have no idea what the scale
> from the bottom can even be set to.
> Why is the tool designed that way? Not every joint is made on the
> workbench. Let's say you are making a rectangular frame and you want
> to join the four pieces. The cuts will be on the edge for one piece
> but the face of the mate. Face is not easily done on a bench, nor may
> it be as accurate as registration with the fence from the top.
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
> .
>
>
>
I have the same tool, about 18 months now. We differ on the easiest, most
accurate procedure.
The slots tend to stay straighter when I flip the boards over, reference
faces down, and register off of the bottom of the tool, when appropriate.
But as I said, this is really a minor thing, and certainly not something
about which to argue.
Patriarch
On 2 May 2004 15:26:45 -0700, [email protected] (Chris) wrote:
>My oak plywood desktop is progressing. I've been trying to find more
>info on which and how many biscuits to use for the solid oak face
>molding. The top is 3/4" oak ply and the molding is 3/4" by 1x1/2"
>solid red oak. I will let the molding overhang the bottom of the
>countertop so I only have max 3/4" heigth and 3/4" deep to hold a
>biscuit. My friend told me to use FF biscuits and space them about
>10" apart on a 10' span. Being inquisitive, I just wanted to know
>more about sizes, tolerances, spacing, quantity, etc.. Anyone have
>any good places to look and\or have any tips for my project?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chris
The 10" is about right. I use #20 biscuits for most things. Be
careful about cutting the slots too close to the surface as the
biscuits can swell and produce a small hump on your ply. Try to cut
the slots along the center. Use clamps. A "dry run" can save a big
headache; ie, put the facing on with biscuits and clamps without
glue--that way everything will be within reach when you apply the glue
without any surprises and reduces the chance of a panic attack.
I use #20 biscuits about 10" or so apart. When I glue the molding on, I put
a thicker board between my clamp faces and the molding. That way, the
clamping pressure is better spread across the molding and there is a tighter
fit between the molding and the ply.
Preston
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My oak plywood desktop is progressing. I've been trying to find more
> info on which and how many biscuits to use for the solid oak face
> molding. The top is 3/4" oak ply and the molding is 3/4" by 1x1/2"
> solid red oak. I will let the molding overhang the bottom of the
> countertop so I only have max 3/4" heigth and 3/4" deep to hold a
> biscuit. My friend told me to use FF biscuits and space them about
> 10" apart on a 10' span. Being inquisitive, I just wanted to know
> more about sizes, tolerances, spacing, quantity, etc.. Anyone have
> any good places to look and\or have any tips for my project?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris