Greetings,
Thought I'd post something about WW. I've recently completed a
turning saw and a frame resaw.
Started a turning saw a while back, based on the "bug saw" plans at
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/bowsaw.html (plan at
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/bug_saw.pdf ).
Used an old oak table leg. I pried apart the lamination to yield a
3.5 x 1.5 inch chunk. I resawed that with a CS. (Posted here regarding
that cut.) OK, stock prepared.
Moved the pdf file into Adobe Illustrator and created my own outline
art. Printed that and rubber-cemented the cut-outs to the stock. (Viz
another thread.) Cut with a coping saw (cuz I didn't have a turning saw,
natch), #63 spokeshave, and a half-round file. (#49 patternmaker's rasp
is on my wishlist.)
Shaved and turned the handles on my drill press. (Posted about that,
too.) The pins are a couple of decapitated lag screws, hacksawed and
filed to shape. Cut leather washers from the same belt that provided my
bench strop. [Can you believe what the catalogs charge for a chunk of
leather glued to a board!]
Waited over a month for the backordered blade to arrive from
woodworker.com. Then I cut the crossbar and put in the tenons. Smart,
huh?
Scraped with a Clifton 0.8 mm scraper. Finished by rubbing orange
shellac. I used canned Bull's Eye. I'm new to shellac, started with a
small can before someday taking the plunge for a bag of flakes.
Was too cheap to pay 5 bucks shipping for a 2.50 roll of waxed linen
sailmaker's cord. Popped the recycling twine. Found a spare pack of
bootlaces. Perfect. Threw clove hitches around the lace instead of the
handle because the lace, at 60", is a wee bit shorter than I'd like.
Nevertheless, it works like a charm.
The Resaw: I was inspired by the plans at
http://www.hyperkitten.com/woodworking/frame_saw.php3 .
Some insensitive clod bought the piece of hickory I wanted at
Woodcraft, so I settled for a chunk of ash from Rockler up the road. It
looked mostly straight in the store. Oh my. Anyway, it had a 30" long
straight place, so I was in business. I got two of the frame saw blades
from Woodcraft: the stagger tooth and the tenon. Someday I might get a
bandsaw blade to cut down...
The long dimension was determined by the blade; I sized the short
dimension to make a Golden Rectangle. Traced my hands onto the frame and
shaved and filed to fit. The feel of a custom handle is just
unbelievable. Finished this one with rubbed shellac too. Waiting a few
days before waxing, but it works just fine. Not as narrow a kerf as
might be possible, but it feels fine.
The "Should I build this" thread reminded me of my old Jr High
footstool. It's gotten pretty beaten up in 26 years. Yesterday and today
I whipped out a copy. No power tools. Better tolerances, too. Just for
grins I used my #62 folding ruler and a couple of old rosewood squares
for layout. (Ebay is $o much fun to brow$e.)
Have fun, and...
--
"Keep your ass behind you."
> I used my #62 folding ruler and a couple of old rosewood squares
>for layout. (Ebay is $o much fun to brow$e.)
>
> Have fun, and...
>--
>"Keep your ass behind you."
>
>
This guy's got all the nomenclature. What the heck's a #49 patternmaker's rasp,
besides a rasp, anyway? Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....
On 03 May 2004 07:29:06 GMT, [email protected] (Tom) wrote:
>What the heck's a #49 patternmaker's rasp,
>besides a rasp, anyway?
Not much. If you're going to spend serious money on a rasp (which is
worth it, first time you make a cabriole leg), then go for the Italian
ones. They leave a better finish than the old Stanley ones.
A rasp is a chunk of steel with teeth raised on it by punching. It's
vital that all teeth are formed to an identical height, if the finish
isn't to have grooves. If you want to avoid ridges, then a
pseudo-random layout of teeth is better than a regular grid.
A modern substitute for a rasp is a Microplane. Good finish, but they
do have a tendency to flatten curved work.
--
Smert' spamionam
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Tom) wrote:
> This guy's got all the nomenclature. What the heck's a #49 patternmaker's
> rasp,
> besides a rasp, anyway? Tom
Originally used by patternmakers, who needed a rasp that would remove
material quickly, but leave a smooth finish. The teeth are
pseudo-randomly placed. IFAIK, they are machine-made. There used to be
zillions, or at least dozens, of different patternmaker rasps and files.
The #49 and #50 are the most popular, and are still being made. They
cost less than hand-cut rasps, but more than rougher standard rasps.
--
"Keep your ass behind you."