One of the side rails on my bed gave up the ghost. It seems to be made of
4/4 baltic birch plywood. The metal rail hangers simply twisted the plys
open.
I'm replacing the rail with a good hardwood - probably red oak. The
question is this: What is the best way to mill the slot at the ends of the
rail to accept the metal hanger? It is a blind slot and looks less than
1/8" wide.
Walter
I've done it with a plunge router and edge guide.. Bed rails are long,
though, so I clamped the stock vertically and had to stand on a step stool
to reach the long ends. Also clamp extra stock flush to the ends to give
the router extra support.
Brian.
"Walter T Briggs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> One of the side rails on my bed gave up the ghost. It seems to be made of
> 4/4 baltic birch plywood. The metal rail hangers simply twisted the plys
> open.
>
> I'm replacing the rail with a good hardwood - probably red oak. The
> question is this: What is the best way to mill the slot at the ends of
the
> rail to accept the metal hanger? It is a blind slot and looks less than
> 1/8" wide.
>
> Walter
>
>
True.
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Or you can sneak it inside by routing a stopped trim from the face.
>
> Unless you're below or inside the mattress, you'll never know.
>
> "Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I've done it with a plunge router and edge guide.. Bed rails are long,
> > though, so I clamped the stock vertically and had to stand on a step
stool
> > to reach the long ends. Also clamp extra stock flush to the ends to
give
> > the router extra support.
> >
> > Brian.
> >
> >
> > "Walter T Briggs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > One of the side rails on my bed gave up the ghost. It seems to be
made
> of
> > > 4/4 baltic birch plywood. The metal rail hangers simply twisted the
> plys
> > > open.
> > >
> > > I'm replacing the rail with a good hardwood - probably red oak. The
> > > question is this: What is the best way to mill the slot at the ends
of
> > the
> > > rail to accept the metal hanger? It is a blind slot and looks less
than
> > > 1/8" wide.
> > >
> > > Walter
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Or you can sneak it inside by routing a stopped trim from the face.
Unless you're below or inside the mattress, you'll never know.
"Brian" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've done it with a plunge router and edge guide.. Bed rails are long,
> though, so I clamped the stock vertically and had to stand on a step stool
> to reach the long ends. Also clamp extra stock flush to the ends to give
> the router extra support.
>
> Brian.
>
>
> "Walter T Briggs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > One of the side rails on my bed gave up the ghost. It seems to be made
of
> > 4/4 baltic birch plywood. The metal rail hangers simply twisted the
plys
> > open.
> >
> > I'm replacing the rail with a good hardwood - probably red oak. The
> > question is this: What is the best way to mill the slot at the ends of
> the
> > rail to accept the metal hanger? It is a blind slot and looks less than
> > 1/8" wide.
> >
> > Walter
> >
> >
>
>
"Walter T Briggs" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> One of the side rails on my bed gave up the ghost. It seems to be
> made of 4/4 baltic birch plywood. The metal rail hangers simply
> twisted the plys open.
>
> I'm replacing the rail with a good hardwood - probably red oak. The
> question is this: What is the best way to mill the slot at the ends
> of the rail to accept the metal hanger? It is a blind slot and looks
> less than 1/8" wide.
>
> Walter
>
>
You are only going to make 4 slots. Get out your chisels (you know, the
cutters without electrical cords) and cut them by hand. It will be just as
fast, plus will be quieter and the sawdust won't be all over the shop.
Also, less chance of making a fatal mistake and ruining an expensive board.
--
John Snow
"If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
Hitch <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> "Walter T Briggs" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> One of the side rails on my bed gave up the ghost. It seems to be
>> made of 4/4 baltic birch plywood. The metal rail hangers simply
>> twisted the plys open.
>>
>> I'm replacing the rail with a good hardwood - probably red oak. The
>> question is this: What is the best way to mill the slot at the ends
>> of the rail to accept the metal hanger? It is a blind slot and looks
>> less than 1/8" wide.
>>
>> Walter
>>
>>
>
> You are only going to make 4 slots. Get out your chisels (you know,
> the cutters without electrical cords) and cut them by hand. It will
> be just as fast, plus will be quieter and the sawdust won't be all
> over the shop. Also, less chance of making a fatal mistake and
> ruining an expensive board.
>
And, if you MUST use a tailed tool, use an electric drill to hog out the
bulk of the material, pre-chisel.
Please don't restart the thread on what type of chisel is most appropriate
to use here! ;-)
Patriarch