I've got a pair of library bookcases to finish. They are constructed of ps
white oak ply and solid stock. The finish will be alcohol dissolved
Transtint dye in a mission oak color with tung oil afterwards. My question
is: does the dye interfere with a glue bond (like pigment stains that
include a varnish binder) or can I precolor, assemble and oil?
Works great. I do it all the time.
--
Ross
www.myoldtools.com
"Eric Ryder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got a pair of library bookcases to finish. They are constructed of
ps
> white oak ply and solid stock. The finish will be alcohol dissolved
> Transtint dye in a mission oak color with tung oil afterwards. My
question
> is: does the dye interfere with a glue bond (like pigment stains that
> include a varnish binder) or can I precolor, assemble and oil?
>
>
Second the easy part using the primary colors! IIRC Jeff Jewitt
responded to this question in one of his forums that dye alone, no
binder used, would not hinder gluing. Search
www.homesteadfinishing.com for topic.
On Thu, 17 Jun 2004 01:10:50 -0400, "Eric Ryder"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> "Eric Ryder" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>> > I've got a pair of library bookcases to finish. They are constructed
>> > of ps white oak ply and solid stock. The finish will be alcohol
>> > dissolved Transtint dye in a mission oak color with tung oil
>> > afterwards. My question is: does the dye interfere with a glue bond
>> > (like pigment stains that include a varnish binder) or can I precolor,
>> > assemble and oil?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> It worked well for me, but you probably will want to try some on your
>> scraps. What glue you use may make a difference. I used Original
>> Titebond, with decent results, but it was on a small desktop box. I
>wasn't
>> worried about 400 lbs of books.
>>
>> What blend of Transtint colors are you using for your 'mission oak'?
>>
>> Patriarch
>
>I have to colormatch some existing work - pretty easy if you have the
>primaries, that's the best thing about the dyes IMO.
>
Thanks Larry.
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 15 Jun 2004 17:16:09 -0400, "Eric Ryder"
> <[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>
> >I've got a pair of library bookcases to finish. They are constructed of
ps
> >white oak ply and solid stock. The finish will be alcohol dissolved
> >Transtint dye in a mission oak color with tung oil afterwards. My
question
> >is: does the dye interfere with a glue bond (like pigment stains that
> >include a varnish binder) or can I precolor, assemble and oil?
>
> Well, you have the dyes, you have scraps of the same
> wood , and you have the glue. Dye some pieces, let
> them dry, glue and clamp them one night and see if
> they can be pulled apart in the morning. You'll easily
> see if the joint fails. (I doubt it for water or alc-
> based, though an oil-based stain would surely screw
> things up.)
>
> --
> Don't forget the 7 P's:
> Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss-Poor Performance
> ----------------------------------------------------
> http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
>
"Eric Ryder" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I've got a pair of library bookcases to finish. They are constructed
> of ps white oak ply and solid stock. The finish will be alcohol
> dissolved Transtint dye in a mission oak color with tung oil
> afterwards. My question is: does the dye interfere with a glue bond
> (like pigment stains that include a varnish binder) or can I precolor,
> assemble and oil?
>
>
>
It worked well for me, but you probably will want to try some on your
scraps. What glue you use may make a difference. I used Original
Titebond, with decent results, but it was on a small desktop box. I wasn't
worried about 400 lbs of books.
What blend of Transtint colors are you using for your 'mission oak'?
Patriarch
On Tue, 15 Jun 2004 17:16:09 -0400, "Eric Ryder"
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>I've got a pair of library bookcases to finish. They are constructed of ps
>white oak ply and solid stock. The finish will be alcohol dissolved
>Transtint dye in a mission oak color with tung oil afterwards. My question
>is: does the dye interfere with a glue bond (like pigment stains that
>include a varnish binder) or can I precolor, assemble and oil?
Well, you have the dyes, you have scraps of the same
wood , and you have the glue. Dye some pieces, let
them dry, glue and clamp them one night and see if
they can be pulled apart in the morning. You'll easily
see if the joint fails. (I doubt it for water or alc-
based, though an oil-based stain would surely screw
things up.)
--
Don't forget the 7 P's:
Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss-Poor Performance
----------------------------------------------------
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
"patriarch [email protected]>" <<patriarch> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Eric Ryder" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > I've got a pair of library bookcases to finish. They are constructed
> > of ps white oak ply and solid stock. The finish will be alcohol
> > dissolved Transtint dye in a mission oak color with tung oil
> > afterwards. My question is: does the dye interfere with a glue bond
> > (like pigment stains that include a varnish binder) or can I precolor,
> > assemble and oil?
> >
> >
> >
>
> It worked well for me, but you probably will want to try some on your
> scraps. What glue you use may make a difference. I used Original
> Titebond, with decent results, but it was on a small desktop box. I
wasn't
> worried about 400 lbs of books.
>
> What blend of Transtint colors are you using for your 'mission oak'?
>
> Patriarch
I have to colormatch some existing work - pretty easy if you have the
primaries, that's the best thing about the dyes IMO.