OK. I am 70% done with the blanket chest/toy box that I'm building from
plans off of FurniturePlans.com. Its going pretty well now that I've made a
couple of jigs. I decided it was a 'go' a few days ago and went to the borg
to buy the lumber. I chose 6 S4S pieces of poplar and clear pine and the
plywood I needed. WOW how expensive it is. Ended up spending over $60...
and how cupped, warped, twisted, and blah blah it was when I started using
it this morning!
So this leads me to the question. When you all land a score of rough wood,
I'm assuming that you get it cheaper per relative board foot than I'd get
S4S at the borg per bf. Then you mill it yourself doing the resawing, then
jointing and planing it down to the sizes that you need. When you mill it
do you just joint and plane it and start using it? The stuff I bought was
S4S which from what I know means it should be nice and square and ready for
building... but like I said it was mostly defective... and those were pieces
that I searched for at least 25 minutes to get the best ones. Was it really
S4S that I bought (it said so on the tag and 'looks' nice)? Are there
alternatives to getting 'good' S4S somewhere other than the borg?
BTW... I dont have a bandsaw, jointer, or planer so I cant 'do-it-myself'
just yet.
Thanks,
Mike
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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Mike W. <[email protected]> wrote:
> I chose 6 S4S pieces of poplar and clear pine and the
> plywood I needed. WOW how expensive it is. Ended up spending over $60...
> and how cupped, warped, twisted, and blah blah it was when I started using
> it this morning!
How did you store it?
Mike W. <[email protected]> wrote:
> There was no storing... I bought it at the borg one evening and then started
> making sawdust out of it the next morning. I have to guess there was some
> 'storing' done by the mfr.
Well, I'm far from an expert, but how you kept it overnight will make a
difference. Perhaps not with properly kiln dried hardwoods and what not,
but with pine from a borg, you lean it against a wall and it'll move.
The flip side of that is, depending on the plans, you might be able to
"persuade" the pieces into place and they'll likely stay with proper
gluing and screwing so to speak.
On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 23:26:57 GMT, "Nick Bozovich" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Mike -
>If you can stand another reply -
>
>I'm still a beginner/newbie, but I learned really quickly that the Borg or
>Lowes ISN'T the place to buy good quality wood, especially hardwood. As you
>discovered, the quality is usually poor, and it's very expensive.
>
>I don't know where you live, but try to find a hardwood lumber supplier, or
>better yet, a small mill that has a kiln. You can get rough cut, KD wood in
>my area (Pennsylvania) for 1/3 to 1/2 the price of what you'd pay at the
>Borg. I found a small mill (it's a bout a two hr drive each way, but I
>think it's worth it) that has 4/4 red & white oak for $1.80/bf (the last
>time I bought from him). It's KD, and very good quality. I also got some
>6/4 ash for $1.50/bf. Yeah, I had to haul it, and because I don't have a
>pick-up, I had to stuff it into my car (actually a "company" owned car- so I
>don't pay for gas), but he'll cut it into 9' lengths for me, no charge, so
>it would fit. He also has maple, cherry, and other stuff. There's a couple
>of hardwood lumber suppliers about 45 min away, and their 4/4 rough cut red
>& white oak is about $2.50/bf. One of these guys sells cutoffs by the
>pound, so you can get some good smaller stuff relatively cheaply. Anyway,
>it's still way cheaper than HD or Lowes. Besides I like to go to the mill
>or the hardwood supplier and enjoy them turning on their DC systems and
>really cool laser guided saws. When they turn the DC on, you can almost see
>the metal walls bow inward!!
>
>I use my 6" jointer to finish it - if I'm careful and my technique is right,
>I can finish all four sides true and square. There's some waste, but again,
>if my technique is right, I'm able to limit that. Still, it's cheaper than
>the Borg, and better quality. I'm looking for a planer now, trying to
>decide the Dewalt 735, or a 15" floor model by Yorkcraft or Bridgewood. I'm
>trying to figure out how much I'd use the 15", and would it be worth the
>extra $250 - $400 to have it over the table top.
>
>Bottom line, you need to at least get a jointer if you're going to do much
>ww (get the largest and best one you can afford - an 8" with a 72" bed would
>be better, but I got a good deal on a 6" Jet at an estate auction). By
>using your TS correctly, along with the jointer, you can also square up your
>boards, so a planer isn't critical, but it will sure help.
>
>Just my $.02.....
>
>Nick B
Hope that helps you, Mike.
To further your skills, I saw on the wreck recently a good list of ww
books. You might want to pick them up instead of going to Lowes all
the time
Couldn't resist. ;-)
S4S is not a grade of wood, just that it's been planed or surfaced on 4
sides. I've had pretty good luck picking through the offering at Lowe's
or the Borg. It depends on how many have picked through it before you.
"Mike W." wrote:
>
> OK. I am 70% done with the blanket chest/toy box that I'm building from
> plans off of FurniturePlans.com. Its going pretty well now that I've made a
> couple of jigs. I decided it was a 'go' a few days ago and went to the borg
> to buy the lumber. I chose 6 S4S pieces of poplar and clear pine and the
> plywood I needed. WOW how expensive it is. Ended up spending over $60...
> and how cupped, warped, twisted, and blah blah it was when I started using
> it this morning!
>
> So this leads me to the question. When you all land a score of rough wood,
> I'm assuming that you get it cheaper per relative board foot than I'd get
> S4S at the borg per bf. Then you mill it yourself doing the resawing, then
> jointing and planing it down to the sizes that you need. When you mill it
> do you just joint and plane it and start using it? The stuff I bought was
> S4S which from what I know means it should be nice and square and ready for
> building... but like I said it was mostly defective... and those were pieces
> that I searched for at least 25 minutes to get the best ones. Was it really
> S4S that I bought (it said so on the tag and 'looks' nice)? Are there
> alternatives to getting 'good' S4S somewhere other than the borg?
>
> BTW... I dont have a bandsaw, jointer, or planer so I cant 'do-it-myself'
> just yet.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.571 / Virus Database: 361 - Release Date: 1/26/2004
--
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Cochran, GA
...........................................
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You buy lumber by the following grades:
http://www.awi-wa.com/_hidden/nhla.htm
Then you surface and join as required. Gaining the capability to do so is a
great benefit - your boards are all the same thickness as long as you finish
them on the same pass., edges square and fresh-ready to glue, and if you
want 7/8" instead of 3/4, you can usually get it.
The fact that you can be paid for this great benefit in cheaper acquisition
costs is just gravy....
"Mike W." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> So this leads me to the question. When you all land a score of rough
wood,
> I'm assuming that you get it cheaper per relative board foot than I'd get
> S4S at the borg per bf. Then you mill it yourself doing the resawing,
then
> jointing and planing it down to the sizes that you need. When you mill it
> do you just joint and plane it and start using it? The stuff I bought was
> S4S which from what I know means it should be nice and square and ready
for
> building... but like I said it was mostly defective... and those were
pieces
> that I searched for at least 25 minutes to get the best ones. Was it
really
> S4S that I bought (it said so on the tag and 'looks' nice)? Are there
> alternatives to getting 'good' S4S somewhere other than the borg?
>
> BTW... I dont have a bandsaw, jointer, or planer so I cant 'do-it-myself'
> just yet.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.571 / Virus Database: 361 - Release Date: 1/26/2004
>
>
Wrong approach. What you tell her is woodworking is cheaper than
drinking....
"Mike W." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Now... one of the things I've touted to SWMBO about WWing is that I could
> build things a heck of a lot cheaper than buying them... with the cost of
> this wood I'm gonna have a hard time convincing her of that. After
hardware
> I'm gonna end up spending $90 - $100 on a toy box. Granted it kept me out
> of her hair for 8-10 hours, but thats not much savings on one of them
> RubberMaid jobbies she was ready to buy before I convinced her to let me
> build a 'nice' one.
>
> I've had fun building it so far... and when she saw the carcass that I
have
> made at this point she actually exclaimed 'WOW... you did that?'. That
was
> worth another $50 or so right there. :-)
>
Mike -
If you can stand another reply -
I'm still a beginner/newbie, but I learned really quickly that the Borg or
Lowes ISN'T the place to buy good quality wood, especially hardwood. As you
discovered, the quality is usually poor, and it's very expensive.
I don't know where you live, but try to find a hardwood lumber supplier, or
better yet, a small mill that has a kiln. You can get rough cut, KD wood in
my area (Pennsylvania) for 1/3 to 1/2 the price of what you'd pay at the
Borg. I found a small mill (it's a bout a two hr drive each way, but I
think it's worth it) that has 4/4 red & white oak for $1.80/bf (the last
time I bought from him). It's KD, and very good quality. I also got some
6/4 ash for $1.50/bf. Yeah, I had to haul it, and because I don't have a
pick-up, I had to stuff it into my car (actually a "company" owned car- so I
don't pay for gas), but he'll cut it into 9' lengths for me, no charge, so
it would fit. He also has maple, cherry, and other stuff. There's a couple
of hardwood lumber suppliers about 45 min away, and their 4/4 rough cut red
& white oak is about $2.50/bf. One of these guys sells cutoffs by the
pound, so you can get some good smaller stuff relatively cheaply. Anyway,
it's still way cheaper than HD or Lowes. Besides I like to go to the mill
or the hardwood supplier and enjoy them turning on their DC systems and
really cool laser guided saws. When they turn the DC on, you can almost see
the metal walls bow inward!!
I use my 6" jointer to finish it - if I'm careful and my technique is right,
I can finish all four sides true and square. There's some waste, but again,
if my technique is right, I'm able to limit that. Still, it's cheaper than
the Borg, and better quality. I'm looking for a planer now, trying to
decide the Dewalt 735, or a 15" floor model by Yorkcraft or Bridgewood. I'm
trying to figure out how much I'd use the 15", and would it be worth the
extra $250 - $400 to have it over the table top.
Bottom line, you need to at least get a jointer if you're going to do much
ww (get the largest and best one you can afford - an 8" with a 72" bed would
be better, but I got a good deal on a 6" Jet at an estate auction). By
using your TS correctly, along with the jointer, you can also square up your
boards, so a planer isn't critical, but it will sure help.
Just my $.02.....
Nick B
"acronym" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 15:51:40 +0000, Toller wrote:
>
> > I think you are shopping the wrong place. I only used pine once for my
> > son's Eagle project, but two lumberyards donated about $300 worth of
lumber
> > and it was all straight and flat.
> > (I suppose I should give a plug to Lowes and Matthews & Fields at this
point
> > in gratitude)
>
> Just out of curiosity, since the closest lumberyard is almost 30 miles
> away - I just picked out some decent oak at HD to finish a bed, paid
> pretty much $6.00 bf for 2x4 s4s. How much do you guys pay for 8/4 red
> oak? Is it really worth the hassle? Can't belive it is THAT much
cheaper, especially near Boston.
>
On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 23:06:55 GMT, "Mike W."
<[email protected]> wrote:
>OK. I am 70% done with the blanket chest/toy box that I'm building from
>plans off of FurniturePlans.com. Its going pretty well now that I've made a
>couple of jigs. I decided it was a 'go' a few days ago and went to the borg
>to buy the lumber. I chose 6 S4S pieces of poplar and clear pine and the
>plywood I needed. WOW how expensive it is. Ended up spending over $60...
>and how cupped, warped, twisted, and blah blah it was when I started using
>it this morning!
===================
I think the previous posts explained that lumber S4S is NOT really
"square"... I think Ed's explanation was pretty clear....
My comments have to do with you spending 60 bucks...
A toy box or blanket chest is NOT the smallest things in the world and
I am curious how you actually got out of the "borg" with only spending
60 bucks... 4x 8 sheet of crap plywood has to cost 30 bucks and 5
bucks a board for poplar also sounds cheap... What did you buy (size
wise)...?
On your other question I do buy 95 percent of my lumber in the rough..
and honestly I sometimes think I just should buy it already S4S ...
for 2 reasons....
It takes a long time (Ok I am retired so I do have the
time) to process rough lumber into nice "square" S4S lumber...
and the second reason is that I usually still have way too much
waste.... even before I screw up a cut or two... so I am processing
much more lumber then I really need....
You will notice that someone said they plained the lumber within a 1/8
of an inch then "stickered" it for a few weeks BEFORE USING it...
That statement is extremely important ... until I learned that leason
I had lots of problems with keeping things square ...
Bob Griffiths...
I think the other 'bout covered it. My advice is that until you get all
the other equipment that you find a lumber dealer who really caters to
woodworkers
and will take care of your joining and planing needs. My lumber supplier
charges an extra $0.30bft for S2S and $0.80bft for S4S which is still a hell
of a
lot cheaper and Lowes or Home Depot and his stuff can be joined w/ no probs.
Joey in Chesapeake
"Mike W." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK. I am 70% done with the blanket chest/toy box that I'm building from
> plans off of FurniturePlans.com. Its going pretty well now that I've made
a
> couple of jigs. I decided it was a 'go' a few days ago and went to the
borg
> to buy the lumber. I chose 6 S4S pieces of poplar and clear pine and the
> plywood I needed. WOW how expensive it is. Ended up spending over $60...
> and how cupped, warped, twisted, and blah blah it was when I started using
> it this morning!
>
> So this leads me to the question. When you all land a score of rough
wood,
> I'm assuming that you get it cheaper per relative board foot than I'd get
> S4S at the borg per bf. Then you mill it yourself doing the resawing,
then
> jointing and planing it down to the sizes that you need. When you mill it
> do you just joint and plane it and start using it? The stuff I bought was
> S4S which from what I know means it should be nice and square and ready
for
> building... but like I said it was mostly defective... and those were
pieces
> that I searched for at least 25 minutes to get the best ones. Was it
really
> S4S that I bought (it said so on the tag and 'looks' nice)? Are there
> alternatives to getting 'good' S4S somewhere other than the borg?
>
> BTW... I dont have a bandsaw, jointer, or planer so I cant 'do-it-myself'
> just yet.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.571 / Virus Database: 361 - Release Date: 1/26/2004
>
>
Especially near Boston is exactly where I do my buying and if you could find
8/4 oak at HD or Lowes, which you can't) it would still be twice the price
of rough cut oak from a supplier.
I can sympathize though, if it is a small job I have to do I always try to
rationalize the cost of getting the stock at Lowes rather then head out on
the highway. Most of the time it has to be a really small job before I can
justify it.
I'm in the process of pricing just such a job right now and I really really
don't want to get out in the cold.
Take care
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"acronym" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 15:51:40 +0000, Toller wrote:
>
> > I think you are shopping the wrong place. I only used pine once for my
> > son's Eagle project, but two lumberyards donated about $300 worth of
lumber
> > and it was all straight and flat.
> > (I suppose I should give a plug to Lowes and Matthews & Fields at this
point
> > in gratitude)
>
> Just out of curiosity, since the closest lumberyard is almost 30 miles
> away - I just picked out some decent oak at HD to finish a bed, paid
> pretty much $6.00 bf for 2x4 s4s. How much do you guys pay for 8/4 red
> oak? Is it really worth the hassle? Can't belive it is THAT much
cheaper, especially near Boston.
>
Mike W. wrote:
>
> BTW... I dont have a bandsaw, jointer, or planer so I cant 'do-it-
> myself' just yet.
You will, Mike. If you have a serous interest in woodworking, you will buy
some of those tools soon. The frustration of using junk wood at high prices
soon leads you to the inevitable.
Some hardwood dealer will surface and joint the boards for you. Worth a few
phone calls to see if they have minimum charges, etc. The place I use has a
minimum of a full board, 8" long and they will plane it to the thickness you
want. . Heck of a deal a pretty good prices. .
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
> I don't know where you live, but try to find a hardwood lumber
> supplier, or better yet, a small mill that has a kiln. You can get
> rough cut, KD wood in my area (Pennsylvania) for 1/3 to 1/2 the
price
I live about 30 miles south of pittsburgh. are any of these close to
me ??? If not does anyone know any good lumber suppliers near me. I
get some stuff at west elizabeth lumber(the only place i have found
for exotic) but i need a cheep alternative for the hardwoods ( oak
and such). I am gonna spend the money on a planer when the income tax
check comes in so i need to find a good supplier. any help greatly
appreciated.
Mojo asks:
> I don't know where you live, but try to find a hardwood lumber
>> supplier, or better yet, a small mill that has a kiln. You can get
>> rough cut, KD wood in my area (Pennsylvania) for 1/3 to 1/2 the
>price
>
>I live about 30 miles south of pittsburgh. are any of these close to
>me ??? If not does anyone know any good lumber suppliers near me. I
>get some stuff at west elizabeth lumber(the only place i have found
>for exotic) but i need a cheep alternative for the hardwoods ( oak
>and such). I am gonna spend the money on a planer when the income tax
>check comes in so i need to find a good supplier. any help greatly
>appreciated.
try woodfinder. www.woodfinder.com
They have a ZIP code search box. I don't know Pittsurgh's ZIP--any of them--but
if you're close by, it should be easily findable.
Or type in the wood species.
They don't have anywhere near all the dealers, but it's a great starting point.
Charlie Self
"We're 269 days from the election, and that's several political lifetimes."
TERRY HOLT, Bush campaign spokesman.
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
In article <[email protected]>, "Mike W." <[email protected]> wrote:
>OK. I am 70% done with the blanket chest/toy box that I'm building from
>plans off of FurniturePlans.com. Its going pretty well now that I've made a
>couple of jigs. I decided it was a 'go' a few days ago and went to the borg
>to buy the lumber. I chose 6 S4S pieces of poplar and clear pine and the
>plywood I needed. WOW how expensive it is. Ended up spending over $60...
>and how cupped, warped, twisted, and blah blah it was when I started using
>it this morning!
>
>So this leads me to the question. When you all land a score of rough wood,
>I'm assuming that you get it cheaper per relative board foot than I'd get
>S4S at the borg per bf.
Yep. A *lot* cheaper.
>Then you mill it yourself doing the resawing, then
>jointing and planing it down to the sizes that you need. When you mill it
>do you just joint and plane it and start using it?
No. I joint and plane to about 1/16 to 1/8 oversize, then stack and sticker it
for at least a week.
>The stuff I bought was
>S4S which from what I know means it should be nice and square and ready for
>building
Not really. All the S4S designation means is that it's Surfaced 4 Sides. This
is usually done commercially by planing both faces, and straight-line
ripsawing both edges. This results in boards with approximately parallel faces
and edges, with faces and edges approximately square to each other. It does
*not* guarantee that the faces are *flat*, however. When you feed a rough
bowed or twisted board into a planer, a smooth bowed or twisted board comes
out. Planers only make opposite sides parallel. They don't make them straight.
>... but like I said it was mostly defective... and those were pieces
>that I searched for at least 25 minutes to get the best ones. Was it really
>S4S that I bought (it said so on the tag and 'looks' nice)?
If it was smooth on all four sides, it was S4S. *All* that means is that it's
been surfaced. It does *not* mean it was surfaced *properly*. It also does not
mean that the wood was *dried* properly before being surfaced, and, given
where you bought it, it seems that might not have been the case.
> Are there
>alternatives to getting 'good' S4S somewhere other than the borg?
Look in the Yellow Pages under "Lumber" for dealers who advertise that they
sell hardwood. Or try www.woodfinder.com, but know that woodfinder is unaware
of approximately half to two thirds of the lumber sources listed in the Yellow
Pages.
>
>BTW... I dont have a bandsaw, jointer, or planer so I cant 'do-it-myself'
>just yet.
Time to get them. :-)
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
Here's what I bought (prices are approximate to what I remember)... granted
that I had a few scaps to use beforehand:
1x4x8 Select Pine @ $6.50 x 4 $26.00
1x6x6 Select Pine @ $10.00 x 1 $10.00
1x3x6 Select Pine @ $4.50 x 1 $4.50
2x4 Birch Ply @ $12.50 x 2 $25.00
Approximate Total Being: $65.50
Now... one of the things I've touted to SWMBO about WWing is that I could
build things a heck of a lot cheaper than buying them... with the cost of
this wood I'm gonna have a hard time convincing her of that. After hardware
I'm gonna end up spending $90 - $100 on a toy box. Granted it kept me out
of her hair for 8-10 hours, but thats not much savings on one of them
RubberMaid jobbies she was ready to buy before I convinced her to let me
build a 'nice' one.
I've had fun building it so far... and when she saw the carcass that I have
made at this point she actually exclaimed 'WOW... you did that?'. That was
worth another $50 or so right there. :-)
Mike W.
"grif" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 23:06:55 GMT, "Mike W."
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >OK. I am 70% done with the blanket chest/toy box that I'm building from
> >plans off of FurniturePlans.com. Its going pretty well now that I've
made a
> >couple of jigs. I decided it was a 'go' a few days ago and went to the
borg
> >to buy the lumber. I chose 6 S4S pieces of poplar and clear pine and the
> >plywood I needed. WOW how expensive it is. Ended up spending over
$60...
> >and how cupped, warped, twisted, and blah blah it was when I started
using
> >it this morning!
>
> ===================
> I think the previous posts explained that lumber S4S is NOT really
> "square"... I think Ed's explanation was pretty clear....
>
> My comments have to do with you spending 60 bucks...
>
> A toy box or blanket chest is NOT the smallest things in the world and
> I am curious how you actually got out of the "borg" with only spending
> 60 bucks... 4x 8 sheet of crap plywood has to cost 30 bucks and 5
> bucks a board for poplar also sounds cheap... What did you buy (size
> wise)...?
>
> On your other question I do buy 95 percent of my lumber in the rough..
> and honestly I sometimes think I just should buy it already S4S ...
> for 2 reasons....
> It takes a long time (Ok I am retired so I do have the
> time) to process rough lumber into nice "square" S4S lumber...
> and the second reason is that I usually still have way too much
> waste.... even before I screw up a cut or two... so I am processing
> much more lumber then I really need....
>
> You will notice that someone said they plained the lumber within a 1/8
> of an inch then "stickered" it for a few weeks BEFORE USING it...
>
> That statement is extremely important ... until I learned that leason
> I had lots of problems with keeping things square ...
>
> Bob Griffiths...
>
>
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.571 / Virus Database: 361 - Release Date: 1/26/2004
place I get my s3s sells the rough stuff for only $.30 less per board foot.
--
http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland
"Mike W." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK. I am 70% done with the blanket chest/toy box that I'm building from
> plans off of FurniturePlans.com. Its going pretty well now that I've made
a
> couple of jigs. I decided it was a 'go' a few days ago and went to the
borg
> to buy the lumber. I chose 6 S4S pieces of poplar and clear pine and the
> plywood I needed. WOW how expensive it is. Ended up spending over $60...
> and how cupped, warped, twisted, and blah blah it was when I started using
> it this morning!
>
> So this leads me to the question. When you all land a score of rough
wood,
> I'm assuming that you get it cheaper per relative board foot than I'd get
> S4S at the borg per bf. Then you mill it yourself doing the resawing,
then
> jointing and planing it down to the sizes that you need. When you mill it
> do you just joint and plane it and start using it? The stuff I bought was
> S4S which from what I know means it should be nice and square and ready
for
> building... but like I said it was mostly defective... and those were
pieces
> that I searched for at least 25 minutes to get the best ones. Was it
really
> S4S that I bought (it said so on the tag and 'looks' nice)? Are there
> alternatives to getting 'good' S4S somewhere other than the borg?
>
> BTW... I dont have a bandsaw, jointer, or planer so I cant 'do-it-myself'
> just yet.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>
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>
p_j wrote:
> Mike W. <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I chose 6 S4S pieces of poplar and clear pine and the
>> plywood I needed. WOW how expensive it is. Ended up spending over
>> $60... and how cupped, warped, twisted, and blah blah it was when I
>> started using it this morning!
>
> How did you store it?
What's the proper way to store it? Is there a rec.w faq for beginners?
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>p_j wrote:
>
>> Mike W. <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> I chose 6 S4S pieces of poplar and clear pine and the
>>> plywood I needed. WOW how expensive it is. Ended up spending over
>>> $60... and how cupped, warped, twisted, and blah blah it was when I
>>> started using it this morning!
>>
>> How did you store it?
>
>What's the proper way to store it? Is there a rec.w faq for beginners?
>
The proper way to store it is "stacked and stickered". Do a Google Groups
search for that phrase, or for "stickers" alone, in this group; I believe
there was an excellent discussion sometime last summer or fall on just that
subject.
Or find yourself a copy of "Fine Woodworking on Wood and How to Dry It".
--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?
There was no storing... I bought it at the borg one evening and then started
making sawdust out of it the next morning. I have to guess there was some
'storing' done by the mfr.
Thanks,
Mike W.
"p_j" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1g8e0fc.1w8a76s4cn400N%[email protected]...
> Mike W. <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I chose 6 S4S pieces of poplar and clear pine and the
> > plywood I needed. WOW how expensive it is. Ended up spending over
$60...
> > and how cupped, warped, twisted, and blah blah it was when I started
using
> > it this morning!
>
> How did you store it?
---
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On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 15:51:40 +0000, Toller wrote:
> I think you are shopping the wrong place. I only used pine once for my
> son's Eagle project, but two lumberyards donated about $300 worth of lumber
> and it was all straight and flat.
> (I suppose I should give a plug to Lowes and Matthews & Fields at this point
> in gratitude)
Just out of curiosity, since the closest lumberyard is almost 30 miles
away - I just picked out some decent oak at HD to finish a bed, paid
pretty much $6.00 bf for 2x4 s4s. How much do you guys pay for 8/4 red
oak? Is it really worth the hassle? Can't belive it is THAT much cheaper, especially near Boston.
It won't be necessary for me to make this a long post since Doug M. pretty
well covered the questions, so I'll just add a little FYI.
Occasionally I'll have a job small enough that making the trip to my
closest supplier in the Titanic plus time milling the stock equals out too
just getting it at Lowes, so I do track the price difference between the
rough cut I get from my supplier and what Lowes has to offer.
The difference is invariably twice the cost for the wood from Lowes.
Needless to say it has to be a very small , a couple or five board feet,
job. Anything more and I fire up the Titanic.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Mike W." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK. I am 70% done with the blanket chest/toy box that I'm building from
> plans off of FurniturePlans.com. Its going pretty well now that I've made
a
> couple of jigs. I decided it was a 'go' a few days ago and went to the
borg
> to buy the lumber. I chose 6 S4S pieces of poplar and clear pine and the
> plywood I needed. WOW how expensive it is. Ended up spending over $60...
> and how cupped, warped, twisted, and blah blah it was when I started using
> it this morning!
>
> So this leads me to the question. When you all land a score of rough
wood,
> I'm assuming that you get it cheaper per relative board foot than I'd get
> S4S at the borg per bf. Then you mill it yourself doing the resawing,
then
> jointing and planing it down to the sizes that you need. When you mill it
> do you just joint and plane it and start using it? The stuff I bought was
> S4S which from what I know means it should be nice and square and ready
for
> building... but like I said it was mostly defective... and those were
pieces
> that I searched for at least 25 minutes to get the best ones. Was it
really
> S4S that I bought (it said so on the tag and 'looks' nice)? Are there
> alternatives to getting 'good' S4S somewhere other than the borg?
>
> BTW... I dont have a bandsaw, jointer, or planer so I cant 'do-it-myself'
> just yet.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.571 / Virus Database: 361 - Release Date: 1/26/2004
>
>