Pipe Clamp Question

I bought a few set of the Sure Foot pipe clamp fixtures from Rockler and I
love them. The wide foot is really nice and they are predrilled for adding
accessories. Something I like to do when clamping up narrow panels is add
an extra half of the jaws (not the threaded one but the sliding one) to the
end of the clamp to hold the ends up

codepath wrote:


> So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
> be threaded?



There are two kinds of pipe clamp that I'm familiar with. One kind can be
used both as a clamp and a spreader. This kind of clamp does not require
the pipe to be threaded. Both end pieces of the clamp can be slid along the
pipe to any desired position. The other, cheaper, kind of pipe clamp needs
the pipe to be threaded on one end. The clamp piece with the tightening
screw is threaded onto this end of the pipe.

--
--
Steve

Oh yeah? Well I know I can curl 12 oz. cans with both hands at the same time
and I once put a 2x6 8 foot long over my head.........Top that big man!!
LMAO!

Jim


"Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I would guess that your breakage experience was an unusual thing. I'm
> leaving for the gym as soon as I post this. I bench 265lbs and squat 375.

On Sun, 01 Feb 2004 01:38:32 GMT, [email protected] (Bruce) wrote:

>As for slippage, I'm not sure how you can blame a clamp for slipping. What
>do you suppose caused it to slip that wouldn't cause a Jorgensen to slip?
>


better clutch plates.

codepath asks:

>
>Ok, time for a stupid question.
>
>Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change the
>pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
>never included.
>
>So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
>be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
>tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"

Forget cutting the pipe yourself. Go to your local plumbing supply store, or to
a borg if you don't want to do the plumbing supply dance, and you'll find all
the black pipe you want. Mostly, it comes in 20' lengths, but for a small
charge, the PS store will cut it to length and thread one end for you. You can
go to Big Orange or Might Blue and find the stuff standing vertically on
shelves in the plumbing supply area, in lengths from about 1" to whatever, in
about 6" or 1' increments, depending on the store. Usually both ends are
already threaded.

Bar clamps are great. You'll need some. Start with pipe clamps though. You're
out less than 10 bucks for a top quality 8' pipe clamp. Check out a fairly good
bar clamp price to note why pipe clamps remain popular.

Charlie Self
"All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is
sure."
Mark Twain
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html

Mike in Mystic wrote:
>
> What profession would you imagine might have a need for **steel**

Make that IRON pipe


pipe? If you
> can answer this you might realize where to look. Hint: the pipe can also
> be found at very large "all-in-one" stores, sometimes with orange or blue
> signage.
>
> "codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Ok, time for a stupid question.
> >
> > Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change the
> > pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
> > never included.
> >
> > So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
> > be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
> > tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"?
> >
> > Should I just say "fuck 'em" to the pipe clamps and get bar clamps?
> >
> >
> > codepath
> >
> >

--

Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
...........................................
My life is based on a true story.


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Charlie Self wrote:
>
> codepath asks:
>
> >
> >Ok, time for a stupid question.
> >
> >Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change the
> >pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
> >never included.
> >
> >So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
> >be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
> >tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"
>
> Forget cutting the pipe yourself. Go to your local plumbing supply store, or to
> a borg if you don't want to do the plumbing supply dance, and you'll find all
> the black pipe you want. Mostly, it comes in 20' lengths, but for a small
> charge, the PS store will cut it to length and thread one end for you. You can
> go to Big Orange or Might Blue and find the stuff standing vertically on
> shelves in the plumbing supply area, in lengths from about 1" to whatever, in
> about 6" or 1' increments, depending on the store. Usually both ends are
> already threaded.
>
> Bar clamps are great. You'll need some. Start with pipe clamps though. You're
> out less than 10 bucks for a top quality 8' pipe clamp. Check out a fairly good
> bar clamp price to note why pipe clamps remain popular.
>
> Charlie Self
> "All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is
> sure."
> Mark Twain
> http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html

Small charge? I think it depends on where you live (and
maybe your own assesment) as to whether the cutting and
threading charge is small. The first time I looked I was
shocked. Of course it is much easier to just buy the
precut length or buy long pieces and have them cut, but it
won't be cheap. If you have very many pieces to thread, you
can pick up a used threader or go to HF, buy one and have a
tool for the same price as threading. And you can alway cut
pipe with a hack saw.

Thanks for the quick response folks. (I rolled up the tips below)

Pipe Clamp Tips:
1. DOH! (on the where, told you it was a stupid question)
2. Add 6"
3. Thread one end

Thanks again,

codepath




"codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, time for a stupid question.
>
> Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change the
> pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
> never included.
>
> So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
> be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
> tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"?
>
> Should I just say "fuck 'em" to the pipe clamps and get bar clamps?
>
>
> codepath
>
>

Seems like a kind of silly design to require you to have to thread the end
when they could just close the end of the clamp to fit over the pipe like a
cap.

Of well.

Thanks,

codepath


"Steve Dunbar" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> codepath wrote:
>
>
> > So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need
to
> > be threaded?
>
>
>
> There are two kinds of pipe clamp that I'm familiar with. One kind can be
> used both as a clamp and a spreader. This kind of clamp does not require
> the pipe to be threaded. Both end pieces of the clamp can be slid along
the
> pipe to any desired position. The other, cheaper, kind of pipe clamp needs
> the pipe to be threaded on one end. The clamp piece with the tightening
> screw is threaded onto this end of the pipe.
>
> --
> --
> Steve

In rec.woodworking
"James D Kountz" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Hey Charlie, care to share where one can get an 8' pipe clamp for less than
>$10??

Jim,

I just built a new workbench:

http://home.swbell.net/snaphook/Pics/workbench.jpg

and when I needed to clamp the table top glueup, I didn't have a clamp that
would reach that far and I needed 8 of them. I went to Harbor Freight and
got me 8 of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37056

1/2" Pipe clamps. They were on sale for $1.99 2 weeks ago. I then went to
the Borg and got 8 60" prethreaded 1/2" pipe nipples and went home and
scrwed it all together. They worked like a charm.

8 - $1.99 = $15.92
8 - $4.86 = $38.88 (price from memory but close)
+ sales tax = $59.32

$60 for 8 good 60" clamps is a bargain any way you slice it.

Bruce

In rec.woodworking
"James D Kountz" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Sorry Bruce, but while your math is correct your assumption of quality is
>not. Those things pale in comparison to Jorgensen's.

Jim,

I'm satisfied with the clamps. I wouldn't debate that they are inferior to
Jorgensens because I've never used them and I am aware that there are
better quality items out there.

But let me attempt to give you a lesson. Everything in this world is a
compromise. These clamps to exactly what I want them to and they do it
without failing, with no undue difficulties. That defines quality for me.
I would consider myself an idiot to spend 5X as much for a Jorgensen clamp
that will not fundamentally do anything this one won't. Anything above the
basic requirements may be nice but you can't logically argue that it is
necessary.

Tell me you're not an engineer please? Or if you are, I'll bet you work
for the government.

In rec.woodworking
"James D Kountz" <[email protected]> wrote:

>That said, I can now say that for me they pale in comparison and
>DID NOT do the job intended so therefore I would NOT be an idiot for
>spending more money to get better clamps to get MY job done. Make sense to
>you? The lesson learned? What works for one doesn't always work for the
>masses. Mine slipped and one even broke under moderate reasonable pressure.
>I wasn't even cranking hard on it when it broke. So there you are a simple
>case where we learned something. Didn't we?

James,

I understand what you are saying. You will not see me cheerleading
everything that HF sells because they sell a lot of real crap. I do not
believe the HF 1/2" pipe clamps fall into the crap category.

As to your actual experiences, if one broke it must have been a poor
casting. I would agree that you are less likely to get a poor casting from
Jorgensen. Of course, at 1/5 the price you could break 4 and still come
out ahead.

I would guess that your breakage experience was an unusual thing. I'm
leaving for the gym as soon as I post this. I bench 265lbs and squat 375.
My point being, I would be surprised if you could tighten your clamps any
tighter than I tightened mine. I tightened my 8 clamps when building my
bench, to glue the top and to glue the legs mortise/tenon joints. When I
did, I turned them until I couldn't turn them any more. None of them
cracked or broke. There was also some bowing in the pipe. This has
nothing to do with the clamps though, a Jorgensen would have bowed
identically, and in fact, it illustrates how hard the clamp is pulling.
The real problem was that 60" is about the limit for 1/2" pipe and had I
used 3/4", it would be fine.

One of them was harder to tighten than the others, but it did work. What
happened was that the body twisted a bit due to the pipe hole not being
tapped perfectly straight. I would not expect to see this with a
Jorgensen. Again, if I shitcan that one, I'm still about $6 ahead.

As for slippage, I'm not sure how you can blame a clamp for slipping. What
do you suppose caused it to slip that wouldn't cause a Jorgensen to slip?

In rec.woodworking
Bridger <[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sun, 01 Feb 2004 01:38:32 GMT, [email protected] (Bruce) wrote:
>
>>As for slippage, I'm not sure how you can blame a clamp for slipping. What
>>do you suppose caused it to slip that wouldn't cause a Jorgensen to slip?
>>
>better clutch plates.

I misunderstood what he was saying slipped. I agree that the ones with the
cam locking mechanism from HF slip as I originally bought some of those.
The heavy duty ones have 3 tabs and I assure you they do not slip at all
and instantly lock up.

In rec.woodworking
"James D Kountz" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Oh yeah? Well I know I can curl 12 oz. cans with both hands at the same time
>and I once put a 2x6 8 foot long over my head.........Top that big man!!
>LMAO!

I prefer to curl a 24oz Fosters oil can myself.

Another tip to consider is using galvanized pipe. Threads on just the same
and you don't get that black shit all over your workpiece. I have a couple
of these and would eventually like to upgrade all of my pipe clamps to gal.

Jim


"ahood" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My opinion is to thread both ends and get a threaded PVC cap to go on the
> far end. This is a cheap way to protect the threads from a hostile world,
> and to protect your work when you are swinging the clamp around the shop.
>
>
> "codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Ok, time for a stupid question.
> >
> > Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change
the
> > pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
> > never included.
> >
> > So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need
to
> > be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
> > tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"?
> >
> > Should I just say "fuck 'em" to the pipe clamps and get bar clamps?
> >
> >
> > codepath
> >
> >
>
>

Codepath,

Mike is right: look for them at a plumbing supply store. Costs about
half what you'll pay at HD and Lowes. Here's what I did and my
rationale:

Go for 3/4" black pipe. 1/2" works too, but will bow on longer jobs.
Galv. works too, but both surfaces will rub off and the Galv. is worse
(DAGS for past discussion of this. With either one you'll want to wipe
off the oil, run it through a grinder-wire brush, then wax it
lightly). At the local plumbing stores, it comes in 21' sections. I
bought 2, and cut them into 3 equal 7' sections at the store. They
were more than willing to let me use their outlet outdoors so I could
plug in my Sawzall with a bi-metal blade. Quick and easy, and the 7'
sections easily fit in my little truck.

You can use a hacksaw too, but it'll take a little longer. Bring a
clamping table or vise to hold them while cutting. Some supply stores
will cut/thread them for you at a reasonable rate, but most make you
do it yourself. That's the only benefit I see to the Borgs' system:
they'll cut and thread (for free, if I remember correctly) but the
cost is still higher.

Once home I cut each section into 4' and 3' sections, file the ends
down smooth and level, then I thread one end of each with a cheapo
import threader (Homier sells one for $20 that's worked fine for me).
Probably takes me about 5-10 min. per pipe, so having a store with an
electric threader do it would definitely be easier, but I enjoy doing
that sort of thing.

OK, now I have the pipe for (6) 4' sections and (6) 3' sections, the
combination of which suits most of my clamping needs. Buy a handful of
couplers at the supply store and you can combine those pipes into very
lengthy clamps if needed. You'll need to have two ends threaded for
this (another reason to have the threader around), and I like the idea
elsewhere in the thread to keep these ends clean with a PVC cap when
not in use.

On to clamps: I bought (8) 3/4" pipe clamps from HF for about $3.50
ea, then I got (4) 3/4" long neck (7") pipe clamps for heavy or deep
clamping projects. I got mine used, but Jet sells them for $12, and HF
has them on sale regularly for $8.

If you think Pony (the standard for pipe clamps) is worth it, then
spring for the $12 ea. for them. But HF sells them both, so you can
compare them firsthand as I have. I don't see any significant
difference between them.

For smaller clamps, HF's Pittsburgh clamps are fine in the 6", 12" and
24" lengths. Any longer than 2' and I see too much flex for comfort;
besides, my 3' pipe clamps are perfect for that length and their
strength is overkill.

Good luck,
H

"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<97CSb.2243$%[email protected]>...
> What profession would you imagine might have a need for steel pipe? If you
> can answer this you might realize where to look. Hint: the pipe can also
> be found at very large "all-in-one" stores, sometimes with orange or blue
> signage.
>
>
> "codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Ok, time for a stupid question.
> >
> > Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change the
> > pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
> > never included.
> >
> > So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
> > be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
> > tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"?
> >
> > Should I just say "fuck 'em" to the pipe clamps and get bar clamps?
> >
> >
> > codepath
> >
> >

Great idea, Howard, I'll do that from now on. Why Naptha rather than other solvents?

Regards,
H.

"Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Hylourgos" wrote ...
> > Go for 3/4" black pipe. 1/2" works too, but will bow on longer jobs.
> > Galv. works too, but both surfaces will rub off and the Galv. is worse
> > (DAGS for past discussion of this. With either one you'll want to wipe
> > off the oil, run it through a grinder-wire brush, then wax it
> > lightly). <snip for brevity>
>
> I wipe my black pipe down using a rag dampened with Naphtha then give it a
> coat of shellac. No more marks.

In article <[email protected]>, "codepath" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Seems like a kind of silly design to require you to have to thread the end
>when they could just close the end of the clamp to fit over the pipe like a
>cap.
>
The threads are to hold the clamp head on the pipe. If it just slipped over
the end, it would slip off again when you tried to tighten the clamp.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

"Hylourgos" wrote ...
> Go for 3/4" black pipe. 1/2" works too, but will bow on longer jobs.
> Galv. works too, but both surfaces will rub off and the Galv. is worse
> (DAGS for past discussion of this. With either one you'll want to wipe
> off the oil, run it through a grinder-wire brush, then wax it
> lightly). <snip for brevity>

I wipe my black pipe down using a rag dampened with Naphtha then give it a
coat of shellac. No more marks.

--

Cheers,
Howard

----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org

What profession would you imagine might have a need for steel pipe? If you
can answer this you might realize where to look. Hint: the pipe can also
be found at very large "all-in-one" stores, sometimes with orange or blue
signage.


"codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, time for a stupid question.
>
> Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change the
> pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
> never included.
>
> So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
> be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
> tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"?
>
> Should I just say "fuck 'em" to the pipe clamps and get bar clamps?
>
>
> codepath
>
>

Take at look at any hardware store or home center and go to the plumbing
section. I preferred the 3/4" over the 1/2" pipes as they were much more
rigid.
Eventually you will graduate up to bar clamps. The pipe clamps are OK but
tend to be very heavy and hard on your hands.

"codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, time for a stupid question.
>
> Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change the
> pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
> never included.
>
> So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
> be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
> tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"?
>
> Should I just say "fuck 'em" to the pipe clamps and get bar clamps?
>
>
> codepath
>
>

My 2 cents -
Stay with Pony - I tried some cheap knock-offs a couple of years ago and
ended up giving them away. The particular ones I had tried used a single
locking bar gizmo instead of the nice spring loaded multi-plate setup the
Ponies have.
I personally use 3/4" only - but I'm not sure why - either someone more
experienced once told me too or some other reason I can't remember. (man,
that's a poor justification isn't it).
I've keep threatening to try a few of those aluminum box shaped bar clamps
just to see - but the people that make them are just to proud of them - too
pricey IMHO.

jim bailey

"codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, time for a stupid question.
>
> Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change the
> pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
> never included.
>
> So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
> be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
> tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"?
>
> Should I just say "fuck 'em" to the pipe clamps and get bar clamps?
>
>
> codepath
>
>
>

Hey Charlie, care to share where one can get an 8' pipe clamp for less than
$10??

Jim


"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> codepath asks:
>
> >
>
> Bar clamps are great. You'll need some. Start with pipe clamps though.
You're
> out less than 10 bucks for a top quality 8' pipe clamp. Check out a fairly
good
> bar clamp price to note why pipe clamps remain popular.
>
> Charlie Self
> "All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success
is
> sure."
> Mark Twain
> http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html

My 2 cents

!) Go with 3/4" Pony (about $12 ea, sometimes on sale but pretty rare
lately)
2) Buy pipe threaded both ends and then cut in the middle (you only need
threads on one end to make this thing work...back end doesn't need (or like)
threads. It prefers to go naked)... Take a piece of 10' (Borg sells it) and
make two 5 footers, a 6 footer and a 4 footer, a 7 footer and a 3 footer
...you get the idea. Pipe is cheap so have some fun. Buy lots of pipe and
inter-change a few clamps as needed.
3) Don't drop one of those suckers on your big toe (don't ask how I know
that).

"DJ Delorie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> writes:
> > Pipe clamps come in handy for heavy duty clamping they also can be made
to
> > any length or, using a coupler, extended.
>
> I ahve a pair of couplers for longer lengths (my longest single pipe
> is 8'). While building our shed I had a use for three lengths
> together (8-5-8). I forget why now, but that was a *heavy* clamp!

Sorry Bruce, but while your math is correct your assumption of quality is
not. Those things pale in comparison to Jorgensen's.

Jim

And yes I have used both so I do know what Im talking about before anyone
jumps on that one.


"Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> 8 - $1.99 = $15.92
> 8 - $4.86 = $38.88 (price from memory but close)
> + sales tax = $59.32
>
> $60 for 8 good 60" clamps is a bargain any way you slice it.
>
> Bruce

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Bar clamps are great. You'll need some. Start with pipe clamps though. You're
> out less than 10 bucks for a top quality 8' pipe clamp. Check out a fairly good
> bar clamp price to note why pipe clamps remain popular.
>
For an 8 footer, that's for sure :-). But up to 30"-36" the cheap
Pittsburgh ones from Harbor Freight work pretty good.

Codepath, if you're not aware of it, HF has them on "half price" sale
several times a year. 6" for $1.99, 12" for $2.49, etc.. But make sure
they're Pittsburgh. HF has another brand and they're junk.

--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
> Sorry Bruce, but while your math is correct your assumption of quality is
> not. Those things pale in comparison to Jorgensen's.
>
But just like their bar clamps, HF has 2 kinds of pipe clamps. I didin't
goof and buy the 1/2", but I did buy some of their ordinary 3/4" ones.
They hit the trash pile after only a few uses. Then I bought some of
their 3/4" "heavy-duty" ones when they were on sale. They've worked
great for several years now.

No, I have no financial interest in HF :-). Some of their stuff is junk.
None of it is Jorgenson quality. Some of it works well enough for any
normal use. It may cost you some bucks to find out which is which :-).

BTW, I'm currently teaching a beginners course in model railroading. I
told the students to buy cheap needle files at HF. If they bought good
ones, they'd be reluctant to toss them when they got dull. With the HF
ones, they can toss them when dull with no pangs in the pocketbook :-).

--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?

Jim Bailey wrote:
>My 2 cents -
>Stay with Pony

Ditto.

>I personally use 3/4" only

I use the 1/2" onna 'count of they will perform good enough
for wooddorking "and", the big "and" a glued up panel
doesn't weigh near as much as a panel loaded up with 3/4"
pipes.

>I've keep threatening to try a few of those aluminum box shaped bar clamps
>just to see - but the people that make them are just to proud of them - too
>pricey IMHO.

A'yup. For the price of a single Bessy I can (I do) have
three pipe clamps and I'm not limited to, or stuck with, a
certain size.

UA100

Ok Bruce that's fine, now its my turn to give you something to ponder. As I
stated I own and have used both types of clamps. The cheap HF and the Jorgs.
Ok? Now then I'm glad you didn't experience any bad things when using your
HF clamps. Here's your lesson. Others have, myself included. I don't know
what you clamp, I don't know what you do with yours, I only know what I do
with mine. That said, I can now say that for me they pale in comparison and
DID NOT do the job intended so therefore I would NOT be an idiot for
spending more money to get better clamps to get MY job done. Make sense to
you? The lesson learned? What works for one doesn't always work for the
masses. Mine slipped and one even broke under moderate reasonable pressure.
I wasn't even cranking hard on it when it broke. So there you are a simple
case where we learned something. Didn't we?

Jim


"Bruce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> But let me attempt to give you a lesson. Everything in this world is a
> compromise. These clamps to exactly what I want them to and they do it
> without failing, with no undue difficulties. That defines quality for me.
> I would consider myself an idiot to spend 5X as much for a Jorgensen clamp
> that will not fundamentally do anything this one won't. Anything above
the
> basic requirements may be nice but you can't logically argue that it is
> necessary.
>
> Tell me you're not an engineer please? Or if you are, I'll bet you work
> for the government.

"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Pipe clamps come in handy for heavy duty clamping they also can be made to
> any length or, using a coupler, extended.
>
> Any hardware store or plumber supply house should have black pipe which
they
> will cut and tread for you. For a price of course. Both Lowes and HD carry
> it in set lengths.
>
> Get some pipe clamps and bar clamps. You are not always going to need the
> clamping power of pipe clamps and they are heavy and awkward for doing,
> say, a jewelry box.
>
> Get 3/4" pipe clamps. They come with a better tightening handle and 1/2
can
> be prone to bow if you really have to put the pressure on and the pipe is
> long.
>
>

Clamping power of pipe clamps? How about the clamping power of something
like the Record T-bar clamp, or cramp. Two tonnes of clamping pressure, a
rigid, smooth, adjustable pinned stop on the other end, hard to beat. Best
clamp around IMO, hard, real hard to go back to pipe clamps after using
these. Unfortuantly they're not availible in North America anymore, but
worth a trip to the UK.

Jeffo

I use both 1/2" and 3/4", work about the same to me.

also saw a guy once put two sets of pipe clamps on one pipe, one on each
end. Used them to clamp up his cope and stick doors, when he stood them up
in the corner they only took up half the space.

--

http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland


"codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, time for a stupid question.
>
> Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change the
> pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
> never included.
>
> So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
> be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
> tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"?
>
> Should I just say "fuck 'em" to the pipe clamps and get bar clamps?
>
>
> codepath
>
>

My opinion is to thread both ends and get a threaded PVC cap to go on the
far end. This is a cheap way to protect the threads from a hostile world,
and to protect your work when you are swinging the clamp around the shop.


"codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, time for a stupid question.
>
> Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change the
> pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
> never included.
>
> So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
> be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
> tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"?
>
> Should I just say "fuck 'em" to the pipe clamps and get bar clamps?
>
>
> codepath
>
>

"Hylourgos" wrote ...
> Great idea, Howard, I'll do that from now on. Why Naptha rather than other
solvents?

I use naphtha because it is a really effective solvent. Who knows who has
been handling that pipe and with what. Naphtha will remove grease, oil,
wax, dirt, an whatever else is on the pipe. And it dries really fast. That
way I can get to shellacking the bugger right away as I'm an impatient SOB.

--

Cheers,
Howard

----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 15:45:44 -0800, "codepath" <[email protected]>
brought forth from the murky depths:

>Ok, time for a stupid question.
>
>Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change the
>pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
>never included.
>
>So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
>be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
>tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"?
>
>Should I just say "fuck 'em" to the pipe clamps and get bar clamps?

Yes, and they're on sale at HFT today. The 36" bar clamps are
-cheaper- than the Pony pipers, and the 6-inchers are only
2 bucks apiece. Get the Pittsburgh clamps with the lifetime
warranty.

www.harborfreight.com/
#34387, 5975, 5976, 34389, 34388
6, 12, 24, 30, 36"
$1.99 to $4.49 thru 2/16/04



============================================================
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http://www.diversify.com/stees.html Hilarious T-shirts online
============================================================

Pipe clamps come in handy for heavy duty clamping they also can be made to
any length or, using a coupler, extended.

Any hardware store or plumber supply house should have black pipe which they
will cut and tread for you. For a price of course. Both Lowes and HD carry
it in set lengths.

Get some pipe clamps and bar clamps. You are not always going to need the
clamping power of pipe clamps and they are heavy and awkward for doing,
say, a jewelry box.

Get 3/4" pipe clamps. They come with a better tightening handle and 1/2 can
be prone to bow if you really have to put the pressure on and the pipe is
long.


--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ok, time for a stupid question.
>
> Pipe clamps are cheaper than bar clamps, more versatile (simply change the
> pipe to change the length), and available everywhere. But, the pipes are
> never included.
>
> So where do I get the pipes? Are the cut to length and do the ends need to
> be threaded? Do I have to do that myself? If I have to do it, how? What
> tools do I need? Which is needed more commonly in WWing, 3/4" or 1/2"?
>
> Should I just say "fuck 'em" to the pipe clamps and get bar clamps?
>
>
> codepath
>
>

"codepath" <[email protected]> writes:
> So where do I get the pipes?

IIRC I saw some at our local Home Depot, but the easiest place to get
them is a plumbing supply store (or your local plumber) - they're used
for natural gas piping in homes. My wife happens to work at a water
filter & pump company, so I get mine from her (it's cheaper that way,
and they cut and thread to whatever specs I need :)

You want the 3/4" pipe, which is actually 1" outside diameter. Cut
the pipes about 6" longer than the intended maximum clamp range.
I.e. an 18" pipe makes a 12" clamp.

"Mike G" <[email protected]> writes:
> Pipe clamps come in handy for heavy duty clamping they also can be made to
> any length or, using a coupler, extended.

I ahve a pair of couplers for longer lengths (my longest single pipe
is 8'). While building our shed I had a use for three lengths
together (8-5-8). I forget why now, but that was a *heavy* clamp!