I need to re-finish a walnut table; the surface had been damaged by someone
placing a wet plant container on it. I stripped the table, leafs, and legs.
The top, leafs, and skirt boards are all appear to be made from a solid core
plywood with veneer that is about 1/16 inch thick (unheard of today).
My intent is to apply some golden oak dye(pores are already filled from the
first finish job), seal with amber shellac, and then use 5 or 6 coats of lacquer
for a topcoat. However, there are still blotches and slight variations in the
color after stripping the table. Do I (can I) do anything to get rid of these
color variations before I start again, or do I ignore them and hope the dye and
shellac will even things out.
Len
Len,
I would follow the recommendation to use a glaze. I recently built
a piece of furniture and used walnut that had some sap wood ... had to
do the same. I actually mixed a stain using the formula below with
burnt / raw umber artist oils. The artist oil pigments are smaller
than the average stain off the shelf and will give better clarity. I
feel that this will blend the variations well. In addition, I used
garnet shellac as a sealer.
http://www.thewoodworkingcatalog.com/magazine/nov96/oilstain.html
Also, on recommendation from woodfinishing supplies ... I tried for
the first time .. Waterlox. I was very pleased with the finish and was
terribly easy to apply.
Actually, the best bet would be to go to woodfinishingsupplies.com
and get on their finishing forum, post your situation and they will
get back with a recommendation within 24 hours. I have been quite
impressed with these people.
Good Luck
Steve
On Mon, 19 Jan 2004 13:42:18 -0600, lopez <[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to re-finish a walnut table; the surface had been damaged by someone
>placing a wet plant container on it. I stripped the table, leafs, and legs.
>The top, leafs, and skirt boards are all appear to be made from a solid core
>plywood with veneer that is about 1/16 inch thick (unheard of today).
>
>My intent is to apply some golden oak dye(pores are already filled from the
>first finish job), seal with amber shellac, and then use 5 or 6 coats of lacquer
>for a topcoat. However, there are still blotches and slight variations in the
>color after stripping the table. Do I (can I) do anything to get rid of these
>color variations before I start again, or do I ignore them and hope the dye and
>shellac will even things out.
>
>Len
>
If the veneer is thick enough, perhaps you can sand it until there is an
even color. If not, your last resort is to bleach the wood with a
combination of laundry bleach, a two part wood bleach, and/or oxalic acid.
The problem is, you lose the color of the wood and you will need to stain it
to regain the original feel of the wood.
If you need more information, check out a finishing book, such as, "The New
Wood Finishing Book", by Michael Dresdner.
Preston
"lopez" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I need to re-finish a walnut table; the surface had been damaged by
someone
> placing a wet plant container on it. I stripped the table, leafs, and
legs.
> The top, leafs, and skirt boards are all appear to be made from a solid
core
> plywood with veneer that is about 1/16 inch thick (unheard of today).
>
> My intent is to apply some golden oak dye(pores are already filled from
the
> first finish job), seal with amber shellac, and then use 5 or 6 coats of
lacquer
> for a topcoat. However, there are still blotches and slight variations in
the
> color after stripping the table. Do I (can I) do anything to get rid of
these
> color variations before I start again, or do I ignore them and hope the
dye and
> shellac will even things out.
>
> Len
>
You could go with a glaze or toner rather then trying to stain the wood.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"lopez" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I need to re-finish a walnut table; the surface had been damaged by
someone
> placing a wet plant container on it. I stripped the table, leafs, and
legs.
> The top, leafs, and skirt boards are all appear to be made from a solid
core
> plywood with veneer that is about 1/16 inch thick (unheard of today).
>
> My intent is to apply some golden oak dye(pores are already filled from
the
> first finish job), seal with amber shellac, and then use 5 or 6 coats of
lacquer
> for a topcoat. However, there are still blotches and slight variations in
the
> color after stripping the table. Do I (can I) do anything to get rid of
these
> color variations before I start again, or do I ignore them and hope the
dye and
> shellac will even things out.
>
> Len
>