Rockler is running a sale on a Jet Cabinet Saw right now. Good price, but
it is a Right Tilt Saw. What are the pros and cons of having either. I'm
running a Royobi BT-3000 right now and want to upgrade to a better saw. The
$700 is right in my price range, but I want to get the most for my money. I
use the saw mainly for furniture and home improvement projects. Any input
and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Steve
Steve,
Here is my subliminal message {look at the Grizzly 1023 before you by the
Jet supersaw}. Right versus left is your preference.
Montyhp
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I won't try to tell you about the right-tilt vs. left tilt {subliminal
> message: get a right tilt get a right tilt). There are so many arguments
> that have been documented on this issue {get a right tilt get a right
tilt}
> and if you DAGS you will find much to sway you {don't listen to the
doofuses
> that think a left-tilt is "safer" - you can cut off your thumb on either
saw
> just as easily - get a right tilt get a right tilt}. What I will tell you
> is that, even on sale, a $700 saw is very unlikely to be a cabinet saw
{even
> if it isn't get a right tilt get a right tilt}. You're probably talking
> about the Jet Supersaw, which is more of a hybrid between a cabinet and
> contractor saw, but the power level, IMO, puts it on the "wuss" side of
> cabinets or the "balls out" side of contractors {get a right tilt get a
> right tilt}.
>
> Anyway, I'm sorry I can't tell you what my opinion about the right vs.
left
> issue is, it's just too controversial.
>
> Mike
> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:CTwXb.38617$uV3.65418@attbi_s51...
> > Rockler is running a sale on a Jet Cabinet Saw right now. Good price,
but
> > it is a Right Tilt Saw. What are the pros and cons of having either.
I'm
> > running a Royobi BT-3000 right now and want to upgrade to a better saw.
> The
> > $700 is right in my price range, but I want to get the most for my
money.
> I
> > use the saw mainly for furniture and home improvement projects. Any
input
> > and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Steve
> >
> >
> >
>
>
It was this same text Leon posted around a year ago and I made my decision
based on it based on being a right hander. I got the left tilt and am
getting more used to it all the time. My first saw was right tilt and this
one seemed odd for awhile. The only thing I didn't consider that I really
don't like is that the miter slot on the left side of the blade is further
away than with a right tilt and I'm not as comfortable with it.
Don
Leon <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:rJxXb.22003$%[email protected]...
> ;~) The single most asked question in this group that I paste this rubber
> stamp answer to.
>
> Both saws will make all the same cuts. Some easier on the left tilt, some
> easier on the right tilt. Strictly personal preference. But if you need to
> be steered one way or the other,
>
> Advantages:
>
> Are you right handed?
>
> Get the left tilt.
>
> 1. Left tilt has the bevel wheel on the right side and is easily turned
with
> your Right hand.
>
> 2. Left tilt can rip a narrow bevel with out having to move the fence to
the
> left side of the blade.
>
> 3. Left tilt allows the blade arbor nut to be removed with your right
hand.
>
> 4. Left tilt allows your to remove the arbor nut and turn it in the
> direction that you would expect.
>
> 5. With a Left tilt, when both edges of a board are beveled, the sharp
point
> of the
> bevel is up on the fence when cutting the second bevel as opposed to the
> bottom of the fence where it might slip under.
>
> 6. RIGHT tilt if you are left handed. The bevel wheel is on the left side
of
> the saw.
>
> 7. RIGHT tilt if you "must" use the fence distance indicator when using a
> stacked dado blade set. The blades stack left, away from the fence. The
> indicator remains accurate. On the left tilt, the blades stack towards the
> fence and makes the indicator inaccurate. In this case use a tape measure
to
> set the fence distance.
>
> 8. RIGHT tilt allows you to remove the arbor nut with your left hand but
the
> nut must be turned clockwise to loosen. Bassackwards to normalcy.
>
> If considering a cabinet saw, with wide 50" rip capacity.
>
> The Left tilt will most often afford you the most storage room under the
> right table extension. The RIGHT tilt has an access door in that location
> that will demand room to open. The left tilt allows you to have access to
> the motor and or the insides of the cabinet from the more open left side
of
> the saw with out having to crawl under the right extension table. Very
nice
> if you ever happen to drop the arbor nut inside the cabinet.
>
>
No, I don't regret the decision for a number of reasons. The main one being
that I do all blade changes from the front of the saw and it seems correct
now. I'll get used to the miter slot being further away from the blade. I
thought something was different and couldn't really put my finger on it
until I put my tennoning jig in the slot and it didn't reach the blade.
Read the directions and sure enough, there were instructions on how to
change the bar assembly for left tilt saws. I'm sure it's just as accurate,
it's just in my head that the further from the blade the slot is, the less
stability exists in that distance. My Osborne EB-3 adjusts the difference
without a problem.
Don
Leon <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "V.E. Dorn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > It was this same text Leon posted around a year ago and I made my
decision
> > based on it based on being a right hander. I got the left tilt and am
> > getting more used to it all the time. My first saw was right tilt and
> this
> > one seemed odd for awhile. The only thing I didn't consider that I
really
> > don't like is that the miter slot on the left side of the blade is
further
> > away than with a right tilt and I'm not as comfortable with it.
>
>
> Well I hope you are not unhappy with your decision. I was not aware that
> the slots differed between the right tilt and left tilt as both of my TS's
> have been left tilt. But since you have mention this I will add this to
the
> things to consider in my rubber stamp reply.
>
>
>Normal people get a right tilt.
powermatic (ever heard of them?) got it right the first time. left
tilt.
>
>I had a BT3000. Then I got a Cabinet saw. What a change. I wished I did
>it right the first time. The challenge is to sell your 3k, with a
>straight face.
I kept my BT. it makes a pretty good jobsite saw. hauling the
powermatic 65 around isn't something I want to try....
Hey Steve,
There is some pretty good posts about your question. I've got a General 650
Left Tilt. My only reason for the left tilt, was easy access to the motor
(actually, all components)and dust chute. The access door is located on the
opposite side of the extension table, which means, no crawling under the
extension table....for adjustments or clearing a clogged dust chute.
Cheers,
Andy
On Sat, 14 Feb 2004 22:00:02 GMT, "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Rockler is running a sale on a Jet Cabinet Saw right now. Good price, but
>it is a Right Tilt Saw. What are the pros and cons of having either. I'm
>running a Royobi BT-3000 right now and want to upgrade to a better saw. The
>$700 is right in my price range, but I want to get the most for my money. I
>use the saw mainly for furniture and home improvement projects. Any input
>and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
>Steve
>
>===========================================================
I have not yet read any of the replies to your question...I will do
that later ... BUT I happen to own and use 2 Table saws One is right
tilt the other is left tilt...
The difference...absolutely none !!!!! <<<<<<<<<<<<< This is from
a retired guy who has been a serious woodworker for 40 or so years !!!
The so called saftey issue is (left being safer) is just a big pile
of crap...(no other way for me to say this )...
I will however recommend the left tilt saw IF you plan on using a lot
of sheet goodls like plywood to build cabinets and have the need to
make plenty of bevel rip cuts that will be visible on the finished
cabinet... THE ONLY REASON is that when using a left tilt saw the GOOD
side of the plywood would be cut facing up on the saw...thus avoiding
the problem of chip out .... however you can swap the fence to the
left of the blade on a Rigfht Tilt saw and have the exact same setup
and avoid the problem....
I happen to change blades a lot...and use a stacked dado blade a lot
and the right tilt allows me to switch blades without playing with the
cursor on the rip scale on my Fence... So a right tilt just saves me
time...
Others will mention the position of the clean out box and thje
location of the hand wheels to raise and lower or tilt the blade...
Again since I own both types of saws I honestly see no big difference
in actual use...
I am however Curious on just what model of the Jet Cabinet Saw is on
sale for 700 bucks... Just sounds like a completely unrealistic price
for any Cabinet saw...even the Grizley Cabinet saw is sold for 800 or
so ....
Bob G.
On Sat, 14 Feb 2004 21:58:29 GMT, "Mike in Mystic"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>{get a right tilt get a right tilt}
>
>Anyway, I'm sorry I can't tell you what my opinion about the right vs. left
>issue is, it's just too controversial.
>
>Mike
Very wise of you to not inject yourself into the left tilt/right tilt
debate.
On Sat, 14 Feb 2004 22:00:02 GMT, "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Rockler is running a sale on a Jet Cabinet Saw right now. Good price, but
>it is a Right Tilt Saw. What are the pros and cons of having either. I'm
>running a Royobi BT-3000 right now and want to upgrade to a better saw. The
>$700 is right in my price range, but I want to get the most for my money. I
>use the saw mainly for furniture and home improvement projects. Any input
>and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
>Steve
>
>
There is a slight advantage to a left tilt. With most cabinet saws
the fence can be moved more to the right of the blade. Having the
blade top tilt away from the fence prevents binding better than if it
were tilted toward the fence. So if you are ripping a panel with a
bevel, that's where the left tilt is better. This situation is
probably not too common.
Leon wrote:
> Bob, Jet makes a smaller 110 volt cabinet saw. That is the one on sale at
> Rockler.
I've looked at the saw before I bought my JTAS-10. The JWCS-10A is a hybrid,
more like a contractor's saw in a box. The trunnion assembly is similar to
that of a contractor's saw. If you've noticed Jet's model numbers the
contractor saws have a "CS" designation and the cabinet saws use "AS".
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
I've owned both, current saw is a left tilt.
Left tilt:
Pros - Better bevel ripping, tilt wheel is on right side (I'm right
handed), more storage under right side of saw, I find it easier to
tighten arbor nut.
Cons - Rip fence scale changes with different blade and dado
thicknesses, motor cover may interfere with sliding table, compound
miter cuts should be made with right slot.
Right tilt:
Pros - rip cursor doesn't change when blade does, motor cover dosen't
interfere with sliding table installation.
Cons - funky bevel rips, tilt wheel on left side, arbor nut on wrong
side for me, less storage under table board, due to motor cover and
possibly DC connection.
You'll learn to work with either! <G>
Barry
On Sat, 14 Feb 2004 22:00:02 GMT, "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Rockler is running a sale on a Jet Cabinet Saw right now. Good price, but
>it is a Right Tilt Saw.
The reason the price is so low is that the saw you're talking about is
NOT a Jet cabinet saw. Jet should be shot for calling that thing a
cabinet saw. It is a toy compared to their real cabinet saws. The
only similarity it has with a true cabinet saw is that it has an
enclosed base. It is a 2HP saw, rather than the 3HP or more that is
typical for a modern cab saw. It has the typical contractor saw
construction, with the trunnion suspended from the top of the saw,
rather than from the top of the enclosure as is the practice with true
cabinet saws. It has nowhere near the weight and stability of their
regular cabinet saw. The fence is much less beefy than those
typically found on cabinet saws.
The real Jet cabinet saw (JTAS-10) is an excellent saw, but you aren't
going to find it new for $700.
Tim Carver
[email protected]
I won't try to tell you about the right-tilt vs. left tilt {subliminal
message: get a right tilt get a right tilt). There are so many arguments
that have been documented on this issue {get a right tilt get a right tilt}
and if you DAGS you will find much to sway you {don't listen to the doofuses
that think a left-tilt is "safer" - you can cut off your thumb on either saw
just as easily - get a right tilt get a right tilt}. What I will tell you
is that, even on sale, a $700 saw is very unlikely to be a cabinet saw {even
if it isn't get a right tilt get a right tilt}. You're probably talking
about the Jet Supersaw, which is more of a hybrid between a cabinet and
contractor saw, but the power level, IMO, puts it on the "wuss" side of
cabinets or the "balls out" side of contractors {get a right tilt get a
right tilt}.
Anyway, I'm sorry I can't tell you what my opinion about the right vs. left
issue is, it's just too controversial.
Mike
"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:CTwXb.38617$uV3.65418@attbi_s51...
> Rockler is running a sale on a Jet Cabinet Saw right now. Good price, but
> it is a Right Tilt Saw. What are the pros and cons of having either. I'm
> running a Royobi BT-3000 right now and want to upgrade to a better saw.
The
> $700 is right in my price range, but I want to get the most for my money.
I
> use the saw mainly for furniture and home improvement projects. Any input
> and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Steve
>
>
>
Normal people get a right tilt.
I had a BT3000. Then I got a Cabinet saw. What a change. I wished I did
it right the first time. The challenge is to sell your 3k, with a
straight face.
John
Steve wrote:
>Rockler is running a sale on a Jet Cabinet Saw right now. Good price, but
>it is a Right Tilt Saw. What are the pros and cons of having either. I'm
>running a Royobi BT-3000 right now and want to upgrade to a better saw. The
>$700 is right in my price range, but I want to get the most for my money. I
>use the saw mainly for furniture and home improvement projects. Any input
>and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
>Steve
>
>
>
>
>
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Bob, Jet makes a smaller 110 volt cabinet saw. That is the one on
> sale at Rockler.
>
>
>
I happen to have the Jet catalog here, and was curious....
This saw ISN'T the Supersaw, nor the JTAS-style saw. It appears to be the
708436K, but with a different fence. Something that the Jet folks put
together for the Rockler event, maybe? Like Leaon said, it is a 110V saw,
capable of dual voltage, if I got the model right. The pictures match the
Rockler flyer, at least. I didn't find it on the Rockler website in my
exhaustive, 2 minute search, however. ;-)
to the OP: Good hunting!
Patriarch
"patriarch" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This saw ISN'T the Supersaw, nor the JTAS-style saw. It appears to be the
> 708436K, but with a different fence. Something that the Jet folks put
> together for the Rockler event, maybe? Like Leaon said, it is a 110V saw,
> capable of dual voltage, if I got the model right. The pictures match the
> Rockler flyer, at least. I didn't find it on the Rockler website in my
> exhaustive, 2 minute search, however. ;-)
>
> to the OP: Good hunting!
>
Actually that Jet saw has probably been around 10+ years.. IIRC Delta has
one also. The Rockler sales add that comes in the mail had the sale on the
saw.
"Eddie Munster" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Normal people get a right tilt.
As opposed to those that know better? ;~)
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>
> > Bob, Jet makes a smaller 110 volt cabinet saw. That is the one on sale
at
> > Rockler.
>
> I've looked at the saw before I bought my JTAS-10. The JWCS-10A is a
hybrid,
> more like a contractor's saw in a box. The trunnion assembly is similar
to
> that of a contractor's saw. If you've noticed Jet's model numbers the
> contractor saws have a "CS" designation and the cabinet saws use "AS".
Yeah the only thing that makes the saw something like a cabinet saw is the
fact that it has a cabinet base. All other similarities are closer to a
contractors saw like you indicated.
I think the slot orientation is one of those subtle differences that falls
in my group of why or why not to get a particular tilt saw. My list focuses
more on the way a saw may fit you personally vs. its ability to do what it
is suppose to do.
I will say though, and this has been brought up in the past, perhaps by you.
The left tilts tend to be better when ripping bevels with the same
orientation on opposite sides of a board as the wide side of the bevel is up
off the table vs. laying on the table surface. With the long side of the
bevel up off the top, the point of the bevel presses against the fence
rather than trying to slide under the fence. This is assuming that the
piece you are cutting is to wide to be cut on the left side of a right tilt
saw.
"Bob G." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 15 Feb 2004 03:35:52 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >"V.E. Dorn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> It was this same text Leon posted around a year ago and I made my
decision
> >> based on it based on being a right hander. I got the left tilt and am
> >> getting more used to it all the time. My first saw was right tilt and
> >this
> >> one seemed odd for awhile. The only thing I didn't consider that I
really
> >> don't like is that the miter slot on the left side of the blade is
further
> >> away than with a right tilt and I'm not as comfortable with it.
> >
> >
> >Well I hope you are not unhappy with your decision. I was not aware that
> >the slots differed between the right tilt and left tilt as both of my
TS's
> >have been left tilt. But since you have mention this I will add this to
the
> >things to consider in my rubber stamp reply.
> >
> ===========================================================
> I honestly had to get off my "arse" and walk out to the shop and
> actually check for myself ..... As I said in my first reply I own
> both a right and a left tilt saws...
>
> At least on my two saws (Jet and Delta) the original poster is correct
> the miter slot closer to the blade in both cases is away fromt he
> direction the blade tilts.... The left slot is closer on a right tilt
> saw and the right slot is closer on the left tilt saw...
>
> Had to laugh at myself however because the newer of the saws is over
> 10 years old now...and I NEVER noticed the difference ..Honest I never
> did.
>
> So I guess for some it would make a difference...Personally since I
> never noticed (or if I did notice it sure never reqistered in my
> brain) It does not make a difference...
>
> When I use a miter gauge I tend to use the gauge in the slot to the
> right of the blade... on either saw... just never noticed that
> difference...
>
> Bob Griffiths
>
;~) The single most asked question in this group that I paste this rubber
stamp answer to.
Both saws will make all the same cuts. Some easier on the left tilt, some
easier on the right tilt. Strictly personal preference. But if you need to
be steered one way or the other,
Advantages:
Are you right handed?
Get the left tilt.
1. Left tilt has the bevel wheel on the right side and is easily turned with
your Right hand.
2. Left tilt can rip a narrow bevel with out having to move the fence to the
left side of the blade.
3. Left tilt allows the blade arbor nut to be removed with your right hand.
4. Left tilt allows your to remove the arbor nut and turn it in the
direction that you would expect.
5. With a Left tilt, when both edges of a board are beveled, the sharp point
of the
bevel is up on the fence when cutting the second bevel as opposed to the
bottom of the fence where it might slip under.
6. RIGHT tilt if you are left handed. The bevel wheel is on the left side of
the saw.
7. RIGHT tilt if you "must" use the fence distance indicator when using a
stacked dado blade set. The blades stack left, away from the fence. The
indicator remains accurate. On the left tilt, the blades stack towards the
fence and makes the indicator inaccurate. In this case use a tape measure to
set the fence distance.
8. RIGHT tilt allows you to remove the arbor nut with your left hand but the
nut must be turned clockwise to loosen. Bassackwards to normalcy.
If considering a cabinet saw, with wide 50" rip capacity.
The Left tilt will most often afford you the most storage room under the
right table extension. The RIGHT tilt has an access door in that location
that will demand room to open. The left tilt allows you to have access to
the motor and or the insides of the cabinet from the more open left side of
the saw with out having to crawl under the right extension table. Very nice
if you ever happen to drop the arbor nut inside the cabinet.
"V.E. Dorn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It was this same text Leon posted around a year ago and I made my decision
> based on it based on being a right hander. I got the left tilt and am
> getting more used to it all the time. My first saw was right tilt and
this
> one seemed odd for awhile. The only thing I didn't consider that I really
> don't like is that the miter slot on the left side of the blade is further
> away than with a right tilt and I'm not as comfortable with it.
Well I hope you are not unhappy with your decision. I was not aware that
the slots differed between the right tilt and left tilt as both of my TS's
have been left tilt. But since you have mention this I will add this to the
things to consider in my rubber stamp reply.
On Sun, 15 Feb 2004 03:35:52 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"V.E. Dorn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> It was this same text Leon posted around a year ago and I made my decision
>> based on it based on being a right hander. I got the left tilt and am
>> getting more used to it all the time. My first saw was right tilt and
>this
>> one seemed odd for awhile. The only thing I didn't consider that I really
>> don't like is that the miter slot on the left side of the blade is further
>> away than with a right tilt and I'm not as comfortable with it.
>
>
>Well I hope you are not unhappy with your decision. I was not aware that
>the slots differed between the right tilt and left tilt as both of my TS's
>have been left tilt. But since you have mention this I will add this to the
>things to consider in my rubber stamp reply.
>
===========================================================
I honestly had to get off my "arse" and walk out to the shop and
actually check for myself ..... As I said in my first reply I own
both a right and a left tilt saws...
At least on my two saws (Jet and Delta) the original poster is correct
the miter slot closer to the blade in both cases is away fromt he
direction the blade tilts.... The left slot is closer on a right tilt
saw and the right slot is closer on the left tilt saw...
Had to laugh at myself however because the newer of the saws is over
10 years old now...and I NEVER noticed the difference ..Honest I never
did.
So I guess for some it would make a difference...Personally since I
never noticed (or if I did notice it sure never reqistered in my
brain) It does not make a difference...
When I use a miter gauge I tend to use the gauge in the slot to the
right of the blade... on either saw... just never noticed that
difference...
Bob Griffiths