As

Australopithecus scobis

26/01/2004 12:26 AM

Grain direction on plane tote?

Greetings,
I'd like to whittle custom wood totes (and knobs) for my new planes.
I can't afford the lovely rosewood sets sold everywhere. Besides, I
want to do it myself. (And save my pennies for Hock blades...)

So would someone who owns a plane with a wood tote kindly tell me
which way the grain runs? Fore and aft? Up and down? (Yeah, make one
each way and find out for myself!)
--
"Keep your ass behind you."


This topic has 7 replies

jJ

[email protected] (J Pagona aka Y.B.)

in reply to Australopithecus scobis on 26/01/2004 12:26 AM

26/01/2004 10:21 AM

Front to back.
David

remove the key to email me.

Gs

"George"

in reply to Australopithecus scobis on 26/01/2004 12:26 AM

26/01/2004 6:57 AM

If you're doing it yourself, find wood which makes the turn on its own, so
you can have a broad enough base to attach without the long grain running
across the narrow portion.

Web is full of pictures showing fore-to-aft pattern.

Get the A2.

"Australopithecus scobis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
> I'd like to whittle custom wood totes (and knobs) for my new planes.
> I can't afford the lovely rosewood sets sold everywhere. Besides, I
> want to do it myself. (And save my pennies for Hock blades...)
>
> So would someone who owns a plane with a wood tote kindly tell me
> which way the grain runs? Fore and aft? Up and down? (Yeah, make one
> each way and find out for myself!)
> --
> "Keep your ass behind you."

d

in reply to Australopithecus scobis on 26/01/2004 12:26 AM

26/01/2004 5:49 PM

Australopithecus scobis wrote:
> I'd like to whittle custom wood totes (and knobs) for my new planes.
> I can't afford the lovely rosewood sets sold everywhere. Besides, I
> want to do it myself. (And save my pennies for Hock blades...)
> So would someone who owns a plane with a wood tote kindly tell me
> which way the grain runs? Fore and aft? Up and down? (Yeah, make one
> each way and find out for myself!)

I don't want to start a flame war here, but I'm going to fly in the face
of conventional wisdom. I make my replacements slightly differently
than the originals. If see lots of toats that break along the grain
line about half way up the shaft of the tote. what I do is make the
grain go vertically rather than horizontally, and dado the base of the
tote so that it has "shoulders" that fit down around the foot that a
tote would normally sit on. This gives increased lateral support as
well as increased fore-aft strength. Since my handls a re bigger than
some, the extra size of the tote makes it more comfortable as well. Try
making one each way and see what works best for you. If you want I'll
re-post a pic that you can use aas a template for cutting your blanks.
I start on a bandsaw, clean up the edges on a router, and then cut the
dado with bandsaw and chisels.

Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/

jJ

[email protected] (J Pagona aka Y.B.)

in reply to [email protected] on 26/01/2004 5:49 PM

27/01/2004 12:22 AM

> I make my replacements slightly differently
>than the originals. If see lots of toats that break along the grain
>line about half way up the shaft of the tote. what I do is make the
>grain go vertically rather than horizontally, and dado the base of the
>tote so that it has "shoulders" that fit down around the foot that a
>tote would normally sit on. This gives increased lateral support as
>well as increased fore-aft strength. Since my handls a re bigger than
>some, the extra size of the tote makes it more comfortable as well.
>
>

Is this on wooden planes or metal planes. On wooden planes, I can see this
working. I've done it that way myself on a panel raiser I made. On metal
planes, particularly of the Stanley Bailey or Bedrock variety, the bottom of
the tote would be too thin and would be more likely to break. Also, a bigger
tote would interfere with the lateral adjuster. It seemed to me that the OP
was asking about metal planes, although I could have just assumed wrongly.


David

remove the key to email me.

d

in reply to [email protected] on 26/01/2004 5:49 PM

27/01/2004 1:14 AM

"J Pagona aka Y.B." wrote:
> Is this on wooden planes or metal planes. On wooden planes, I can see this
> working. I've done it that way myself on a panel raiser I made. On metal
> planes, particularly of the Stanley Bailey or Bedrock variety, the bottom of
> the tote would be too thin and would be more likely to break. Also, a bigger
> tote would interfere with the lateral adjuster. It seemed to me that the OP
> was asking about metal planes, although I could have just assumed wrongly.

I'm tallking about metal planes, and the height of the tote doesn't need
to be any higher than on the usual tote. Just make the base slightly
thicker and dado out the difference. Works fine. I think that you
were thinker the tote would be higher than it really is. If that isn't
clear enough, e-mail me off-line rather than burn bandwidth and I'll try
to make more sense out of it.

Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/

jJ

[email protected] (J Pagona aka Y.B.)

in reply to [email protected] on 27/01/2004 1:14 AM

27/01/2004 10:03 AM

>From: [email protected]

> Just make the base slightly
>thicker and dado out the difference.

Gotcha.

> If that isn't
>clear enough, e-mail me off-line rather than burn bandwidth and I'll try
>to make more sense out of it.

Who's burning bandwidth? This seems pretty relevant and on topic to me.

David

remove the key to email me.

jj

jo4hn

in reply to Australopithecus scobis on 26/01/2004 12:26 AM

26/01/2004 4:00 PM

Australopithecus scobis wrote:

Just a note to say I like your nom de web. Scobis from scobiform
(sawdust). :-)
mahalo,
jo4hn


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