Greetings,
I'd like to investigate using my drill press to cut sideways. Google
hasn't been much help, but I gather that real router bits and drill
presses don't mix. Ok, won't go there.
In previous projects I've cut groove waste with a series of Forstner
holes, but that leaves dimples from the guide point. (Cheap Forstners.
Very cheap.) I've also used my circ saw to whittle out the bulk of long
grooves, then cleaned up with chisels.
In my most recent project, I had to do two 22 inch long 3/8 inch
wide grooves (among others). A snaggle-toothed beaver would have done a
neater job. I did the shorter grooves with a dozuki--neat as a pin.
So, I look over at the drill press. (I'm a Reformed Neander.) If not
router bits, maybe one of those drill-bit-like saw blades that go in (I
think) some kind of wall-saw?
--
"Keep your ass behind you."
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Hylourgos) wrote:
>
> Sounds like your problem in part is a conflict between wanting to
> econommize on the one hand and wanting to be in touch with your inner
> Neander on the other.
>
> To accomplish both, if the DP worked fine for you except the dimple,
> why not file off the guide point (you said they were cheap anyway)?
>
> Have you tried hand planes that cut grooves and dados? Usually these
> are more expensive than good used routers, but they keep you
> Neandering.
Today I made a plow plane that uses a 3/8 chisel for the iron. Works
like a charm. Tomorrow I'll look at making the outrigger fence. Inner
Neander is happy, inner cheapskate is happy. I used the DP to drill the
dowel holes to register the resawn face.
--
"Keep your ass behind you."
You can, however a "Australopithecus scobis" would have a hard time spinning
the DP by hand fast enough!
Dave
"Australopithecus scobis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
> I'd like to investigate using my drill press to cut sideways. Google
> hasn't been much help, but I gather that real router bits and drill
> presses don't mix. Ok, won't go there.
>
> In previous projects I've cut groove waste with a series of Forstner
> holes, but that leaves dimples from the guide point. (Cheap Forstners.
> Very cheap.) I've also used my circ saw to whittle out the bulk of long
> grooves, then cleaned up with chisels.
>
> In my most recent project, I had to do two 22 inch long 3/8 inch
> wide grooves (among others). A snaggle-toothed beaver would have done a
> neater job. I did the shorter grooves with a dozuki--neat as a pin.
>
> So, I look over at the drill press. (I'm a Reformed Neander.) If not
> router bits, maybe one of those drill-bit-like saw blades that go in (I
> think) some kind of wall-saw?
> --
> "Keep your ass behind you."
Caveat: I 'm responding to A. in my post even though heirarchically it
looks like I'm responding to Bob. For some reason A's question doesn't
come up (using web Google NG).
Sounds like your problem in part is a conflict between wanting to
econommize on the one hand and wanting to be in touch with your inner
Neander on the other.
To accomplish both, if the DP worked fine for you except the dimple,
why not file off the guide point (you said they were cheap anyway)?
Have you tried hand planes that cut grooves and dados? Usually these
are more expensive than good used routers, but they keep you
Neandering.
If you get a router, just spend $20 or so on a 1.5 hp on ebay. Or go
for Ryobi's 2hp plunge for under $100. Or HF's 3 hp plunge for $80 on
sale. These will get you started.
Thoughts for your consideration,
H
> "Australopithecus scobis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Greetings,
> > I'd like to investigate using my drill press to cut sideways. Google
> > hasn't been much help, but I gather that real router bits and drill
> > presses don't mix. Ok, won't go there.
> >
> > In previous projects I've cut groove waste with a series of Forstner
> > holes, but that leaves dimples from the guide point. (Cheap Forstners.
> > Very cheap.) I've also used my circ saw to whittle out the bulk of long
> > grooves, then cleaned up with chisels.
> >
> > In my most recent project, I had to do two 22 inch long 3/8 inch
> > wide grooves (among others). A snaggle-toothed beaver would have done a
> > neater job. I did the shorter grooves with a dozuki--neat as a pin.
> >
> > So, I look over at the drill press. (I'm a Reformed Neander.) If not
> > router bits, maybe one of those drill-bit-like saw blades that go in (I
> > think) some kind of wall-saw?
> > --
> > "Keep your ass behind you."
All I can say is that a router is so fantastically superior and easier for
what you are trying to do, that I couldn't recommend any other approach.
Once you've had the opportunity to do some of those grooves with a router,
you'll throw rocks at any other ideas. Not only is it faster, but the
finished result is outstanding.
Bob
"Australopithecus scobis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
> I'd like to investigate using my drill press to cut sideways. Google
> hasn't been much help, but I gather that real router bits and drill
> presses don't mix. Ok, won't go there.
>
> In previous projects I've cut groove waste with a series of Forstner
> holes, but that leaves dimples from the guide point. (Cheap Forstners.
> Very cheap.) I've also used my circ saw to whittle out the bulk of long
> grooves, then cleaned up with chisels.
>
> In my most recent project, I had to do two 22 inch long 3/8 inch
> wide grooves (among others). A snaggle-toothed beaver would have done a
> neater job. I did the shorter grooves with a dozuki--neat as a pin.
>
> So, I look over at the drill press. (I'm a Reformed Neander.) If not
> router bits, maybe one of those drill-bit-like saw blades that go in (I
> think) some kind of wall-saw?
> --
> "Keep your ass behind you."
I have an Atlas (circa 1940's) that came complete with a shaper fence, bits
HSS and an attachment to lock in the morse taper. The manual said to take
shallow cuts and be patient.
So maybe not designed for it but they can do it. Your tool, you do what you
want.
"DJ Delorie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Every time I've tried that, the chuck has fallen out. MT2 tapers
> aren't designed for sideways forces, and most drill presses won't have
> a drawbar.
Australopithecus scobis <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I'd like to investigate using my drill press to cut sideways.
Bad idea -- drill press bearings aren't built to withstand sideways forces.
What you need is a milling machine (or a router).
I think that if you do this very much you will likely damage your drill
press. The quill and bearings weren't designed for that lateral load that
this will be creating (a machinist that I work with warned me about this).
Even a cheap router will do a vastly superior job.
Tim
"Australopithecus scobis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Greetings,
> I'd like to investigate using my drill press to cut sideways. Google
> hasn't been much help, but I gather that real router bits and drill
> presses don't mix. Ok, won't go there.
>
> In previous projects I've cut groove waste with a series of Forstner
> holes, but that leaves dimples from the guide point. (Cheap Forstners.
> Very cheap.) I've also used my circ saw to whittle out the bulk of long
> grooves, then cleaned up with chisels.
>
> In my most recent project, I had to do two 22 inch long 3/8 inch
> wide grooves (among others). A snaggle-toothed beaver would have done a
> neater job. I did the shorter grooves with a dozuki--neat as a pin.
>
> So, I look over at the drill press. (I'm a Reformed Neander.) If not
> router bits, maybe one of those drill-bit-like saw blades that go in (I
> think) some kind of wall-saw?
> --
> "Keep your ass behind you."
It's a chuck attachment problem, not a bearing issue unless you try milling
steel or something.
GTO(John)
>I think that if you do this very much you will likely damage your drill
>press. The quill and bearings weren't designed for that lateral load that
>this will be creating (a machinist that I work with warned me about this).
>
>Even a cheap router will do a vastly superior job.
>
>Tim
I've used my drill press with a router bit, but to take off very small
amounts of material and not for extended periods. You could grind the
point off a Forstner bit and use that. I also use the drill press for
sanding (there's a spindle sander in my future). You can potentially
damage a drill press (quill) if too much sideways force is applied.
Like others said, get yourself a router.
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 00:20:24 -0600, Australopithecus scobis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Greetings,
> I'd like to investigate using my drill press to cut sideways. Google
>hasn't been much help, but I gather that real router bits and drill
>presses don't mix. Ok, won't go there.
>
> In previous projects I've cut groove waste with a series of Forstner
>holes, but that leaves dimples from the guide point. (Cheap Forstners.
>Very cheap.) I've also used my circ saw to whittle out the bulk of long
>grooves, then cleaned up with chisels.
>
> In my most recent project, I had to do two 22 inch long 3/8 inch
>wide grooves (among others). A snaggle-toothed beaver would have done a
>neater job. I did the shorter grooves with a dozuki--neat as a pin.
>
> So, I look over at the drill press. (I'm a Reformed Neander.) If not
>router bits, maybe one of those drill-bit-like saw blades that go in (I
>think) some kind of wall-saw?
In article <[email protected]>,
Australopithecus scobis <[email protected]> wrote:
> Greetings,
> I'd like to investigate using my drill press to cut sideways. Google
> hasn't been much help, but I gather that real router bits and drill
> presses don't mix. Ok, won't go there.
It's not the bits so much as the bearings.
The quill bearings in a drill press are not designed to carry side
loads. They are designed to carry axial loads (i.e. pushing down).
Sure, it'll work for a while, but you'll be damaging the bearings, and
it probably won't be a very accurate cut either.
Lathes, milling machines, and routers all have bearings designed to take
side loads.
This is mostly a myth. True, you don't want to do lots of heavy milling on a
DP, but the bearings in most ones made since the '50s (excluding sleeve-bearing
models like the home Rockwells) are _identical_ to those used in motors,
compressors, even actual routers.
Just standard sealed ball-bearing races like you find in everything else. They
can take any radial load reasonable in the tools I named above. But ues, for
have milling you need sturdier types like tapered roller bearings.
The biggest issue with routing or shaping with DPs is the Jacobs taper in the
check, and to a lesser degree the Morse taper on DPs that use removable arbors.
These tend to fly off under radial loads. A secondary problem is that if you
_really_ cranked sideways on a DP you could bend the spindle. But it's not very
likey unless you have an ultra-flimsy DP or put abusive loads on it.
GTO(John)
>It's not the bits so much as the bearings.
>
>The quill bearings in a drill press are not designed to carry side
>loads. They are designed to carry axial loads (i.e. pushing down).
>Sure, it'll work for a while, but you'll be damaging the bearings, and
>it probably won't be a very accurate cut either.
>
>Lathes, milling machines, and routers all have bearings designed to take
>side loads.
You can't tell by looking at them. Internal construction varies quite a bit.
"GTO69RA4" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Just standard sealed ball-bearing races like you find in everything else.
They
> can take any radial load reasonable in the tools I named above. But ues,
for
> have milling you need sturdier types like tapered roller bearings.
>You can't tell by looking at them. Internal construction varies quite a bit.
What are you talking about? You run the spec numbers on the bearings. I'm
saying that the bearings in most of the DPs I've overhauled used stock
off-the-shelf bearings. Name numbers and maker as used in zillions of other
things.
GTO(John)
Australopithecus scobis wrote:
> Greetings,
> I'd like to investigate using my drill press to cut sideways. Google
> hasn't been much help, but I gather that real router bits and drill
> presses don't mix. Ok, won't go there.
[snip]
I have chucked in a router bit into my old Craftsman DP to do some touch
up or take care of a whoopsie when the router was nicely set up for some
other facet of the job. I run the DP at top speed (8550 rpm) and take
shallow cuts to minimize quill problems. Had it for 30 years and no
runout problems.
mahalo,
jo4hn