Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto 3/4 MDF. I've
never done this before and want to know which is the best method. I've read
everything from using contact cement (think I want to avoid this one) to PVA
and light wood glue. Do I lay the veneer down and roll it out from the
center with a roller or what? I'm thinking once I get it glued down flat, I
can lay another piece of MDF on it and stack a lot of weight on it, since I
have no type of press. Will this work?
Thanks in advance
Todd L <--- rookie woodworker
Maybe yes, maybe no. Depends on wood thickness, size, etc.
Of course, if you just set the frame down on something flat and leave it
there you've got little better then a fifty fifty chance it could straighten
itself out.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Todd L" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have another question if you please. I built a frame for a cabinet door
> out of curly maple that came out very slightly warped after unclamping. It
> is square, just a little twisted. I did not clamp the boards down, as I
now
> know I should have. I learn as I go. When layed on a falt surface, one end
> sticks up about 1/4". Will gluing in 3/4 MDF into a rabbet cut on the back
> and pressured in so it seats good into the rabbet keep this frame
straight?
> Or do I need to build it over. All my other frames came out good except
for
> the one.
>
> TIA,
>
> Todd L
>
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > It depends on the surface area of course but with enough veneer is still
> > wood and wood will move no matter what you do. It's either going to
flex
> > the MDF or hurt itself trying.
> >
> > --
> > Mike G.
> > [email protected]
> > Heirloom Woods
> > www.heirloom-woods.net
> > "mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.
> > > >
> > >
> > > Even on 3/4" MDF???
> > >
> > > [ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the
> > message
> > > "Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't
> > really
> > > need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2"
MDF
> > and
> > > up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Todd wrote:>Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto 3/4
MDF. I've
>never done this before and want to know which is the best method. I've read
>everything from using contact cement (think I want to avoid this one) to PVA
>and light wood glue. Do I lay the veneer down and roll it out from the
>center with a roller or what? I'm thinking once I get it glued down flat, I
>can lay another piece of MDF on it and stack a lot of weight on it, since I
>have no type of press. Will this work?
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Todd L <--- rookie woodworker
>
With no press, you could go with wood glue, cauls and some clamps. But the
contact cement won't need any clamping. Just a good rolling-out after careful
adhering. There's a neat trick to avoiding the air pockets that might occur.
Wanna learn it? Why avoid Contact cement? Fire hazard? Odor? There's a low VOC
water-based adhesive out there, if that helps. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....
Oh, I forgot, what's the 'trick' to avoid air pockets?
Todd L
"Tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Todd wrote:>Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto
3/4
> MDF. I've
> >never done this before and want to know which is the best method. I've
read
> >everything from using contact cement (think I want to avoid this one) to
PVA
> >and light wood glue. Do I lay the veneer down and roll it out from the
> >center with a roller or what? I'm thinking once I get it glued down flat,
I
> >can lay another piece of MDF on it and stack a lot of weight on it, since
I
> >have no type of press. Will this work?
> >
> >Thanks in advance
> >
> >Todd L <--- rookie woodworker
> >
> With no press, you could go with wood glue, cauls and some clamps. But the
> contact cement won't need any clamping. Just a good rolling-out after
careful
> adhering. There's a neat trick to avoiding the air pockets that might
occur.
> Wanna learn it? Why avoid Contact cement? Fire hazard? Odor? There's a
low VOC
> water-based adhesive out there, if that helps. Tom
> Someday, it'll all be over....
I read somewhere you should veneer the back also, but it ain't gonna happen,
at least not with this veneer. Check out this wild veneer, ebay item
3808987329. It looks even better in person.
Todd L
"mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> >
> > Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.
> >
>
> Even on 3/4" MDF???
>
> [ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the
message
> "Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't
really
> need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2" MDF
and
> up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]
>
>
Note; The unseen veneer need not be of the same quality or price of your
face veneer.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Todd L" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I read somewhere you should veneer the back also, but it ain't gonna
happen,
> at least not with this veneer. Check out this wild veneer, ebay item
> 3808987329. It looks even better in person.
>
> Todd L
>
It depends on the surface area of course but with enough veneer is still
wood and wood will move no matter what you do. It's either going to flex
the MDF or hurt itself trying.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> >
> > Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.
> >
>
> Even on 3/4" MDF???
>
> [ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the
message
> "Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't
really
> need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2" MDF
and
> up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]
>
>
Thanks Frank, good advice that I'll try. Hate to glue it in and not have it
turn out.
Todd L
"Frank McVey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hard to say, Todd. If the panel is thick enough and the frame thin
enough,
> you might get away with it. It's never worked for me and on the odd
> occasion when I have cocked up, I've had to re-do the door.
>
> You might try just lightly pinning the panel into the rebate and see how
it
> goes. Don't drive the pins fully home, so you can pull them out again
> easily.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Frank
>
>
> "Todd L" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have another question if you please. I built a frame for a cabinet
door
> > out of curly maple that came out very slightly warped after unclamping.
It
> > is square, just a little twisted. I did not clamp the boards down, as I
> now
> > know I should have. I learn as I go. When layed on a falt surface, one
end
> > sticks up about 1/4". Will gluing in 3/4 MDF into a rabbet cut on the
back
> > and pressured in so it seats good into the rabbet keep this frame
> straight?
> > Or do I need to build it over. All my other frames came out good except
> for
> > the one.
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > Todd L
> >
> > "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > It depends on the surface area of course but with enough veneer is
still
> > > wood and wood will move no matter what you do. It's either going to
> flex
> > > the MDF or hurt itself trying.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Mike G.
> > > [email protected]
> > > Heirloom Woods
> > > www.heirloom-woods.net
> > > "mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > >
> > > > "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > > news:[email protected]...
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > Even on 3/4" MDF???
> > > >
> > > > [ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the
> > > message
> > > > "Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you
wouldn't
> > > really
> > > > need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2"
> MDF
> > > and
> > > > up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.665 / Virus Database: 428 - Release Date: 21/04/2004
>
>
Pardon my ignorance, but what's a caul?
Todd L
"Tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Todd wrote:>Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto
3/4
> MDF. I've
> >never done this before and want to know which is the best method. I've
read
> >everything from using contact cement (think I want to avoid this one) to
PVA
> >and light wood glue. Do I lay the veneer down and roll it out from the
> >center with a roller or what? I'm thinking once I get it glued down flat,
I
> >can lay another piece of MDF on it and stack a lot of weight on it, since
I
> >have no type of press. Will this work?
> >
> >Thanks in advance
> >
> >Todd L <--- rookie woodworker
> >
> With no press, you could go with wood glue, cauls and some clamps. But the
> contact cement won't need any clamping. Just a good rolling-out after
careful
> adhering. There's a neat trick to avoiding the air pockets that might
occur.
> Wanna learn it? Why avoid Contact cement? Fire hazard? Odor? There's a
low VOC
> water-based adhesive out there, if that helps. Tom
> Someday, it'll all be over....
>Pardon my ignorance, but what's a caul?
>
>Todd L
A caul is a piece of scrap, slightly bowed/crooked to allow the center to press
first upon the workpiece, then as you tighten the clamps, the outer edges press
down. Too much pressure will bow it the other way, and then you'll get voids.
Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....
Hard to say, Todd. If the panel is thick enough and the frame thin enough,
you might get away with it. It's never worked for me and on the odd
occasion when I have cocked up, I've had to re-do the door.
You might try just lightly pinning the panel into the rebate and see how it
goes. Don't drive the pins fully home, so you can pull them out again
easily.
Cheers,
Frank
"Todd L" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have another question if you please. I built a frame for a cabinet door
> out of curly maple that came out very slightly warped after unclamping. It
> is square, just a little twisted. I did not clamp the boards down, as I
now
> know I should have. I learn as I go. When layed on a falt surface, one end
> sticks up about 1/4". Will gluing in 3/4 MDF into a rabbet cut on the back
> and pressured in so it seats good into the rabbet keep this frame
straight?
> Or do I need to build it over. All my other frames came out good except
for
> the one.
>
> TIA,
>
> Todd L
>
> "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > It depends on the surface area of course but with enough veneer is still
> > wood and wood will move no matter what you do. It's either going to
flex
> > the MDF or hurt itself trying.
> >
> > --
> > Mike G.
> > [email protected]
> > Heirloom Woods
> > www.heirloom-woods.net
> > "mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > news:[email protected]...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.
> > > >
> > >
> > > Even on 3/4" MDF???
> > >
> > > [ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the
> > message
> > > "Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't
> > really
> > > need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2"
MDF
> > and
> > > up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.665 / Virus Database: 428 - Release Date: 21/04/2004
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.
>
Even on 3/4" MDF???
[ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the message
"Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't really
need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2" MDF and
up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]
I have another question if you please. I built a frame for a cabinet door
out of curly maple that came out very slightly warped after unclamping. It
is square, just a little twisted. I did not clamp the boards down, as I now
know I should have. I learn as I go. When layed on a falt surface, one end
sticks up about 1/4". Will gluing in 3/4 MDF into a rabbet cut on the back
and pressured in so it seats good into the rabbet keep this frame straight?
Or do I need to build it over. All my other frames came out good except for
the one.
TIA,
Todd L
"Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It depends on the surface area of course but with enough veneer is still
> wood and wood will move no matter what you do. It's either going to flex
> the MDF or hurt itself trying.
>
> --
> Mike G.
> [email protected]
> Heirloom Woods
> www.heirloom-woods.net
> "mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Mike G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > >
> > > Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.
> > >
> >
> > Even on 3/4" MDF???
> >
> > [ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the
> message
> > "Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't
> really
> > need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2" MDF
> and
> > up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]
> >
> >
>
>
Don't forget to veneer the bottom side also.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Todd L" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto 3/4 MDF. I've
> never done this before and want to know which is the best method. I've
read
> everything from using contact cement (think I want to avoid this one) to
PVA
> and light wood glue. Do I lay the veneer down and roll it out from the
> center with a roller or what? I'm thinking once I get it glued down flat,
I
> can lay another piece of MDF on it and stack a lot of weight on it, since
I
> have no type of press. Will this work?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Todd L <--- rookie woodworker
>
>
"Todd L" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Oh, I forgot, what's the 'trick' to avoid air pockets?
>
> Todd L
>
One answer to that question [there is more than one] is wax paper -- put it
between the verneer and the underlayment and only withdraw it slowly a
section at a time as you roll it out from the center.
Norm