HI,
I am setting up an air compressor in my shop. I have a line on the wall
going all the way around my shop with chucks every 15'. Is there a strategic
way of placing an air filter in this setup to do a better job of trapping
water? I've heard that there was but I'm not sure how to go about it. Maybe
it was all BS and I should just put the filter right at the compressor
tank............if anyone is an expert on this I'd appreciate any info.
Regards. -Guy
Guy LaRochelle wrote:
>
> HI,
>
> I am setting up an air compressor in my shop. I have a line on the wall
> going all the way around my shop with chucks every 15'. Is there a strategic
> way of placing an air filter in this setup to do a better job of trapping
> water?
The two are separate issues, air filtration and water separation, even
though both
functions often are combined into one device 8^)
The best point for water collection/drying is at the lowest point in the
plumbing
and at the furthest point from the compressor tank where the air is the
coolest (water
has condensed the most).
Obviously #2 is impractical since you want the outlets downstream from
the dryer,
but it is still best to put it as far away from the hot compressed air
exiting the compressor
tank as possible.
A filter can go anywhere before the first outlet that you want filtered
for particles.
I have a unit that filters the air through a porous substance and dries
it via centrifugal
cyclone action. It has three connections, one "in" and two "out". I
have it installed at the
lowest point of the distribution pipe and have a quick connect on one of
the "outs" with the rest of
the distribution piping feeding off the other "out". Keep in mind that
sometimes you will need
a source of full pressure/volume airflow where you don't care about
filtered/dry (think getting
maximum torque from an impact wrench). Filter/dryers and long lengths of
pipe have high air resistance
which is counter productive to this so you might want to install one
outlet directly at the compressor
for use where max airflow is needed.
Since you still have to install the pipe, I'd run the line from your
compressor more or less
directly to the filter/dryer with no dips or other low points in the
piping except for at the
ends. You will need to drain water at both the filter/dryer and your
compressor tank.
Next connect your distribution trunk line to the filter/dryer such that
it slopes back towards
the unit at about 1/8" to 1/4" per foot. If it slopes the other way you
will need some drain
mechanism at the low end of the distribution trunk line.
-Bruce
> I've heard that there was but I'm not sure how to go about it. Maybe
> it was all BS and I should just put the filter right at the compressor
> tank............if anyone is an expert on this I'd appreciate any info.
> Regards. -Guy
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On Mon, 5 Jan 2004 16:16:57 -0600, "Guy LaRochelle"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>HI,
>
>I am setting up an air compressor in my shop. I have a line on the wall
>going all the way around my shop with chucks every 15'. Is there a strategic
>way of placing an air filter in this setup to do a better job of trapping
>water? I've heard that there was but I'm not sure how to go about it. Maybe
>it was all BS and I should just put the filter right at the compressor
>tank............if anyone is an expert on this I'd appreciate any info.
>Regards. -Guy
>
>
Hello Guy...
Congratulations on your air compressor setup project. It will
provide you with a handy and efficient means to perform many task. My
compressor is on the first floor and my shop is on the second. The
filter I installed is between the compressor and the first nozzle. I
also installed a trap with a drain plug (similar to your kitchen sink)
before the first nozzle.
Works like a champ...(But always lubricate your pnumatic tools
as recommeded by the manufacturer) A lil oil will make a world of
difference.
Growing Trees Takes Time...So should woodworking...
TJB
I have a small finned radiator that is supposed to be good for a couple hundred
PSI and I was thinking about putting that right before my water trap. Any
thoughts?
BTW this piping thing got pretty expensive. I am well over $100 in galvanized
pipe, fittings and such.
Sure hope they were right about not using PVC ;-)
"Greg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a small finned radiator that is supposed to be good for a couple
hundred
> PSI and I was thinking about putting that right before my water trap. Any
> thoughts?
>
> BTW this piping thing got pretty expensive. I am well over $100 in
galvanized
> pipe, fittings and such.
> Sure hope they were right about not using PVC ;-)
>
Do not use galvanized pipe for air, black is the ticket. We have many
hundreds of feet of air line, some up to 3" dia., and an air compressor
capable of 200+ cfm @ 150 psi. Rust is not a problem, the galvanizing
flaking off and getting into the works is something you want to avoid. Some
other things others have not mentioned, when taking air off a line use a tee
pointed up and a street ell to put your female coupler on. At the end of the
line, put a tee (if taking air, pointed up and down-up for air, down for
condensate) or elbow pointed down with a drop of about 2 feet and a ball
valve at the end to drain condensate. As others have stated, all pipe should
pitch slightly back to the tank.
Steve
Where I am rust IS a problem. I will take my chances with the flakes. I have
some inline filters. I did do the dips for the couplers with drain cocks. Now
if I just remember to drain them.
All those fittings are how I got over $100 so fast.
That is why I wanted a real trap up stream. I figure if I get the air close to
ambient temperature the water will condense out right then.
Do they make an automatic drain valve that senses water, pisses it out and
stops when the bowl is dry?
I don't want to reinvent the wheel but I have some ideas.
"Greg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> -----------------------8<-----------snipped
> Do they make an automatic drain valve that senses water, pisses it out and
> stops when the bowl is dry?
Check this out. http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor/
One of our new piston compressors, bought about March 2003, has an automatic
tank drain of a sort that every once in a while it will begin to vent slowly
and build up and then snap shut. This drains the tank of condensate. I don't
know how it works, since there is no timer on the device. Starting about two
months ago, the time of venting/draining has increased to the point of
annoyance. We think it's crudded up and needs to be cleaned, someone,
someday will take care of this. On another compressor, a Kaeser rotary
screw, a refrigerated dryer works with a very complicated and expensive
system that takes care of filtering and removing water and oil from the
line, our setup needs only one additional type of filter to provide
breathable air, very clean and dry.
> I don't want to reinvent the wheel but I have some ideas.
Steve
On Mon, 5 Jan 2004 16:16:57 -0600, "Guy LaRochelle"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>HI,
>
>I am setting up an air compressor in my shop. I have a line on the wall
>going all the way around my shop with chucks every 15'. Is there a strategic
>way of placing an air filter in this setup to do a better job of trapping
>water? I've heard that there was but I'm not sure how to go about it. Maybe
>it was all BS and I should just put the filter right at the compressor
>tank............if anyone is an expert on this I'd appreciate any info.
>Regards. -Guy
>
>
get 4 short pipes and 4 elbows to form a [u] broken at the bottom. put
your filter separater in that space. place it in a convenient spot so
you can drain it easily. most of the moisture should stay in your tank
at the compressor but a little more will collect in the pipe. gravity
will bring it to your filter. from there i would pitch the overhead
pipe up a little as it travels around the shop. thats just MHO though.
skeez