i have the same planer and when i got snipe it was because i was trying to
take too light of a cut
im not sure how much your taking off but try a little heaver cut see if
that helps also how thin of a
board are you cutting ?
<jditto> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Anyone know how to adjust this unit for snipe? The book has nothing on
> an adjustment. I ran a 2 foot long, 6" wide piece of pine thru it so
> support is not a problem and still get about 3" on each end.
thats`what i was doing, try a heavier cut thats what solved my problem
<jditto> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> 13/16" thick, was trying to take it down 1/32"
>
> On Wed, 7 Apr 2004 08:41:36 -0700, "trimax" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >i have the same planer and when i got snipe it was because i was trying
to
> >take too light of a cut
> >im not sure how much your taking off but try a little heaver cut see if
> >that helps also how thin of a
> >board are you cutting ?
> >
> ><jditto> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >> Anyone know how to adjust this unit for snipe? The book has nothing on
> >> an adjustment. I ran a 2 foot long, 6" wide piece of pine thru it so
> >> support is not a problem and still get about 3" on each end.
> >
>
In article <[email protected]>, "Mark Howell" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
><jditto> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Anyone know how to adjust this unit for snipe? The book has nothing on
>> an adjustment. I ran a 2 foot long, 6" wide piece of pine thru it so
>> support is not a problem and still get about 3" on each end.
>
>The optional feed tables, correctly set up, are supposed to help, but I
>was still getting a little snipe. I wanted zero snipe, so I shimmed the
>feed rollers, and now snipe is nonexistant. I wish they had an adjustment
>for the rollers, but they don't.
>
Please post details of how/where you shimmed, shim size, etc. I'm not having
snipe problems on my 735, but I'd like to know what to do should they appear.
TIA...
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
On Thu, 08 Apr 2004 03:54:22 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>
>Please post details of how/where you shimmed, shim size, etc. I'm not having
>snipe problems on my 735, but I'd like to know what to do should they appear.
>
>TIA...
I second this request, details please. I was able to adjust the
optional tables to mostly eliminate the snipe, but would like to see
if there is a better way. Thanks,
Zeke
13/16" thick, was trying to take it down 1/32"
On Wed, 7 Apr 2004 08:41:36 -0700, "trimax" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>i have the same planer and when i got snipe it was because i was trying to
>take too light of a cut
>im not sure how much your taking off but try a little heaver cut see if
>that helps also how thin of a
>board are you cutting ?
>
><jditto> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> Anyone know how to adjust this unit for snipe? The book has nothing on
>> an adjustment. I ran a 2 foot long, 6" wide piece of pine thru it so
>> support is not a problem and still get about 3" on each end.
>
"Zeke" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 08 Apr 2004 03:54:22 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
> wrote:
> >
> >Please post details of how/where you shimmed, shim size, etc. I'm not having
> >snipe problems on my 735, but I'd like to know what to do should they appear.
> >
> >TIA...
>
> I second this request, details please. I was able to adjust the
> optional tables to mostly eliminate the snipe, but would like to see
> if there is a better way. Thanks,
>
> Zeke
O.K., if you raise the heightof the cutter unit all the way up and look
at the roller ends, you'll see that the roller bearing blocks are held
in with a bracket and two screws. The bracket sorta looks like this:
|--------------------|
| | <------ Bearing block
|_______________|
-------------\___________/--------------- <------- Bracket
The bracket has a dip in the middle, and the bearing block only
makes contact with this bracket at the ends of the dip. Those
contact points are what I wanted to shim, to raise the rollers up
a little bit. Why? I figured that if your making light cuts, the pressure
of the deflecting roller rubber is enough to pull the wood through;
you don't need the springs with their high pressure distorting the base
and causing snipe. The shims work really great and of course if you're
taking deeper cuts the spring come into play.
Alright, nothing was taken apart, and I did one roller at a time.
Crank the cutter head all the way up, and put blocks of wood
underneath the center of one roller. Lower the cutterhead and watch
the bearing blocks lift off the retaining bracket. When they seem to
"top out", stop lowering. You can now shim the two rollerblocks.
I had .020 sheet aluminum laying around that I bought from the borg,
so I used that. I cut out small rectangles that fit the width of the
bearing block. Then with a pair of needlenose pliers, bend a 90 tab
at one end, making sure the tab is small enough to slide between the
bearing block and retaining bracket. Then bend a 45 tab at the other
end, making sure that the remaining shim is slightly wider than the
retaining bracket. Insert the shim, 90 tab first, and let it lay on the
bracket. Then do the other bracket. Now raise the cutterhead, and
the shims will be sandwiched between the bearing block and bracket.
Now bend the 45 to a 90 with a screwdriver.
Repeat for the other roller.
Yes, the shims aren't held in that well when the bearing block loses
contact with them (when taking deep cuts), but mine haven't fallen
out yet. If someone can suggest a more elegant idea, let us know!
Mark
<jditto> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> Anyone know how to adjust this unit for snipe? The book has nothing on
> an adjustment. I ran a 2 foot long, 6" wide piece of pine thru it so
> support is not a problem and still get about 3" on each end.
The optional feed tables, correctly set up, are supposed to help, but I
was still getting a little snipe. I wanted zero snipe, so I shimmed the
feed rollers, and now snipe is nonexistant. I wish they had an adjustment
for the rollers, but they don't.
Thanks for the tip Mark. I would guess that a dab of silicone would
hold the shims in place.
On Thu, 08 Apr 2004 17:31:55 GMT, "Mark Howell"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Zeke" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> On Thu, 08 Apr 2004 03:54:22 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
>> wrote:
>> >
>> >Please post details of how/where you shimmed, shim size, etc. I'm not having
>> >snipe problems on my 735, but I'd like to know what to do should they appear.
>> >
>> >TIA...
>>
>> I second this request, details please. I was able to adjust the
>> optional tables to mostly eliminate the snipe, but would like to see
>> if there is a better way. Thanks,
>>
>> Zeke
>
>
>O.K., if you raise the heightof the cutter unit all the way up and look
>at the roller ends, you'll see that the roller bearing blocks are held
>in with a bracket and two screws. The bracket sorta looks like this:
>
> |--------------------|
> | | <------ Bearing block
> |_______________|
>-------------\___________/--------------- <------- Bracket
>
>
>The bracket has a dip in the middle, and the bearing block only
>makes contact with this bracket at the ends of the dip. Those
>contact points are what I wanted to shim, to raise the rollers up
>a little bit. Why? I figured that if your making light cuts, the pressure
>of the deflecting roller rubber is enough to pull the wood through;
>you don't need the springs with their high pressure distorting the base
>and causing snipe. The shims work really great and of course if you're
>taking deeper cuts the spring come into play.
>
>Alright, nothing was taken apart, and I did one roller at a time.
>Crank the cutter head all the way up, and put blocks of wood
>underneath the center of one roller. Lower the cutterhead and watch
>the bearing blocks lift off the retaining bracket. When they seem to
>"top out", stop lowering. You can now shim the two rollerblocks.
>I had .020 sheet aluminum laying around that I bought from the borg,
>so I used that. I cut out small rectangles that fit the width of the
>bearing block. Then with a pair of needlenose pliers, bend a 90 tab
>at one end, making sure the tab is small enough to slide between the
>bearing block and retaining bracket. Then bend a 45 tab at the other
>end, making sure that the remaining shim is slightly wider than the
>retaining bracket. Insert the shim, 90 tab first, and let it lay on the
>bracket. Then do the other bracket. Now raise the cutterhead, and
>the shims will be sandwiched between the bearing block and bracket.
>Now bend the 45 to a 90 with a screwdriver.
> Repeat for the other roller.
>
>Yes, the shims aren't held in that well when the bearing block loses
>contact with them (when taking deep cuts), but mine haven't fallen
>out yet. If someone can suggest a more elegant idea, let us know!
>
>Mark
>
>