My wife bought me a used BS for Father's day (you gotta love 'em.... the
wife... and the tools too!)
The table has some rust spots on it. I was wondering if it is worth
getting the table resurfaced (surface ground or sanded). I could use a
stone and oil then recoat. I got some Boeshield rust remover at a
woodworking show, and could try that.
I just thought a resurfacing would eliminate any "bumps".
If so, where can I get it redone?
Thanks
Frank
Raleigh nc
OOps JET
> My wife bought me a used BS for Father's day (you gotta love 'em.... the
> wife... and the tools too!)
> The table has some rust spots on it. I was wondering if it is worth
> getting the table resurfaced (surface ground or sanded). I could use a
> stone and oil then recoat. I got some Boeshield rust remover at a
> woodworking show, and could try that.
> I just thought a resurfacing would eliminate any "bumps".
> If so, where can I get it redone?
>
> Thanks
> Frank
> Raleigh nc
Thanks
I have the rust remover from Boeshiels (I got the rest remover T9 and gum
remover at Charlotte NC Show.
I guess I'll try a stone to remove the "bumps" and use the topcoat.
Just picky...
Thanks
[email protected] wrote:
> My wife bought me a used BS for Father's day (you gotta love 'em.... the
> wife... and the tools too!)
> The table has some rust spots on it. I was wondering if it is worth
> getting the table resurfaced (surface ground or sanded). I could use a
> stone and oil then recoat. I got some Boeshield rust remover at a
> woodworking show, and could try that.
> I just thought a resurfacing would eliminate any "bumps".
> If so, where can I get it redone?
>
> Thanks
> Frank
> Raleigh nc
Ron,
I am trying to email you, I might be interested.
Frank
Ron Magen wrote:
> Frank,
> Did the Fence and Miter Gage come with it ?
>
> I ask because I have a 'set' of those items, NEW - in their UNOPENED boxes.
> Yes, they are for the 14inch Open Stand saw.
>
> All I want is what I spent for them . . . Amazon cheap prices. . . but I'm
> open to negotiation. I'll probably be needing/wanting a 6 inch Riser kit
> and good Re-Saw blades, so I figure here's a way to get them before the
> URGENT 'requirement' comes up.
>
> I know the 'kit' you are talking about . . . got the same items. I tend to
> have highly corrosive sweat . . . stuff is always rusting up on me. Get a
> supply of 'Medium' 3-M pads {the 'non-metallic' steel wool} in the 4x9 inch
> size. Get a 'chunk' of that 'non-slip' cloth and cut a piece about the same
> size, and a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 ply, or MDF. Make a a pile . . .3-M pad -
> 'non-slip' - ply. Spray the 'cleaner' liberally on the table, then apply the
> 'pile' using both hands and a straight back&forth motion . . . like
> Holystoning a deck. Wipe with a dry paper towel. If some rust remains . . .
> wet it and do it again. You can use the same 'arrangement' with a strip of
> 340 or 400 grit Carbide paper to check for flatness . . . or courser then
> progressively finer grits to actually flatten it yourself. Use the edge of a
> piece of ply {THINNER then the miter slot} with a piece of the 3-M folded
> around it . . . make sure to get the inside corners.
>
> Now here is the KEY . . . That 'remover' is Oxalic Acid {just like Teak
> cleaner}. The metal table will now be ACTIVE and VERY prone to rust. BEFORE
> you apply the cleaner, make a solution of water and a little Baking Soda.
> NOW apply that solution to the table to neutralize any acid which will be in
> the PORES of the cast iron. Wipe dry, and rinse with ALCOHOL - to remove any
> residual water. Now spray with the Boeshield and wipe dry. Wait about an
> hour or two . . . then spray again, only this time gently wipe it . . . more
> of a smear than a removal.
>
> Except for the waiting, the entire process shouldn't take more than about
> 30-minutes. The important thing is it LASTS. I found out the hard way, the
> rust starts in the pores and WILL keep coming back.
>
> Another thing . . . keep 'regular air' away from the saw table. Fortunately
> I got my hands on some HUGH Vapor Inhibitor bags {actually taller than the
> saw !!}. I pull one over the saw when it is not in use, and do the same with
> my Grizzly Drill Press. For smaller equipment {or if I didn't have these
> bags} I use clear, plastic trash bags . . . and a couple of 'chips' of Vapor
> Inhibiting material. The same stuff is sold in perforated 'tins', etc. under
> the 'Bullfrog' and other brand names.
>
> Regards & Good Luck,
>
> Regards & Thanks,
> Ron Magen
> Backyard Boatshop
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > My wife bought me a used BS for Father's day (you gotta love 'em.... the
> > wife... and the tools too!)
> > The table has some rust spots on it. I was wondering if it is worth
> > getting the table resurfaced (surface ground or sanded). I could use a
> > stone and oil then recoat. I got some Boeshield rust remover at a
> > woodworking show, and could try that.
> > I just thought a resurfacing would eliminate any "bumps".
> > If so, where can I get it redone?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Frank
> > Raleigh nc
> >
Frank,
Did the Fence and Miter Gage come with it ?
I ask because I have a 'set' of those items, NEW - in their UNOPENED boxes.
Yes, they are for the 14inch Open Stand saw.
All I want is what I spent for them . . . Amazon cheap prices. . . but I'm
open to negotiation. I'll probably be needing/wanting a 6 inch Riser kit
and good Re-Saw blades, so I figure here's a way to get them before the
URGENT 'requirement' comes up.
I know the 'kit' you are talking about . . . got the same items. I tend to
have highly corrosive sweat . . . stuff is always rusting up on me. Get a
supply of 'Medium' 3-M pads {the 'non-metallic' steel wool} in the 4x9 inch
size. Get a 'chunk' of that 'non-slip' cloth and cut a piece about the same
size, and a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 ply, or MDF. Make a a pile . . .3-M pad -
'non-slip' - ply. Spray the 'cleaner' liberally on the table, then apply the
'pile' using both hands and a straight back&forth motion . . . like
Holystoning a deck. Wipe with a dry paper towel. If some rust remains . . .
wet it and do it again. You can use the same 'arrangement' with a strip of
340 or 400 grit Carbide paper to check for flatness . . . or courser then
progressively finer grits to actually flatten it yourself. Use the edge of a
piece of ply {THINNER then the miter slot} with a piece of the 3-M folded
around it . . . make sure to get the inside corners.
Now here is the KEY . . . That 'remover' is Oxalic Acid {just like Teak
cleaner}. The metal table will now be ACTIVE and VERY prone to rust. BEFORE
you apply the cleaner, make a solution of water and a little Baking Soda.
NOW apply that solution to the table to neutralize any acid which will be in
the PORES of the cast iron. Wipe dry, and rinse with ALCOHOL - to remove any
residual water. Now spray with the Boeshield and wipe dry. Wait about an
hour or two . . . then spray again, only this time gently wipe it . . . more
of a smear than a removal.
Except for the waiting, the entire process shouldn't take more than about
30-minutes. The important thing is it LASTS. I found out the hard way, the
rust starts in the pores and WILL keep coming back.
Another thing . . . keep 'regular air' away from the saw table. Fortunately
I got my hands on some HUGH Vapor Inhibitor bags {actually taller than the
saw !!}. I pull one over the saw when it is not in use, and do the same with
my Grizzly Drill Press. For smaller equipment {or if I didn't have these
bags} I use clear, plastic trash bags . . . and a couple of 'chips' of Vapor
Inhibiting material. The same stuff is sold in perforated 'tins', etc. under
the 'Bullfrog' and other brand names.
Regards & Good Luck,
Regards & Thanks,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My wife bought me a used BS for Father's day (you gotta love 'em.... the
> wife... and the tools too!)
> The table has some rust spots on it. I was wondering if it is worth
> getting the table resurfaced (surface ground or sanded). I could use a
> stone and oil then recoat. I got some Boeshield rust remover at a
> woodworking show, and could try that.
> I just thought a resurfacing would eliminate any "bumps".
> If so, where can I get it redone?
>
> Thanks
> Frank
> Raleigh nc
>
[email protected] wrote:
> My wife bought me a used BS for Father's day (you gotta love 'em.... the
> wife... and the tools too!)
> The table has some rust spots on it. I was wondering if it is worth
> getting the table resurfaced (surface ground or sanded). I could use a
> stone and oil then recoat. I got some Boeshield rust remover at a
> woodworking show, and could try that.
> I just thought a resurfacing would eliminate any "bumps".
> If so, where can I get it redone?
I've used a combination of 0000 steel wool, WD-40, and Barkeeper's Friend to
clean off rust spots on my table saw. Sure brightened it up! Follow up with
either Johnson's Paste Wax or Boeshield.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
[email protected]
http://www.mortimerschnerd.com
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My wife bought me a used BS for Father's day (you gotta love 'em.... the
> wife... and the tools too!)
> The table has some rust spots on it. I was wondering if it is worth
> getting the table resurfaced (surface ground or sanded). I could use a
> stone and oil then recoat. I got some Boeshield rust remover at a
> woodworking show, and could try that.
> I just thought a resurfacing would eliminate any "bumps".
> If so, where can I get it redone?
>
> Thanks
> Frank
> Raleigh nc
>
Boeshield is good for rust prevention, not removal. Top Saver is great for
rust removal. It is about $20 for a kit. You get the spray, a couple of
scrubbie things, wiping rag, plastic gloves. You can get Top Saver from
Woodcraft and probably many other places.
Just spray it on, let it sit a few minutes and take the scrubbing thing to
it and you'll be amazed at how it comes out. Once cleaned, protect it with
periodic treatments of Boeshield.
Ed
[email protected] wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Thanks
> I have the rust remover from Boeshiels (I got the rest remover T9 and gum
> remover at Charlotte NC Show.
> I guess I'll try a stone to remove the "bumps" and use the topcoat.
> Just picky...
Like Bridger said, it's a BANDSAW. You're still going to have to use at
least one other tool to clean things up after you cut stock with this,
probably more than one.
Clean it. Wax it. Put a new, sharp blade in it. Enjoy it. Make some
sawdust. That's why your wife bought it for you, I suppose. Unless she
just wanted to get you out of the house for the evening ;-)
Patriarch
[email protected] wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Thanks
> I have the rust remover from Boeshiels (I got the rest remover T9 and gum
> remover at Charlotte NC Show.
> I guess I'll try a stone to remove the "bumps" and use the topcoat.
> Just picky...
Like Bridger said, it's a BANDSAW. You're still going to have to use at
least one other tool to clean things up after you cut stock with this,
probably more than one.
Clean it. Wax it. Put a new, sharp blade in it. Enjoy it. Make some
sawdust. That's why your wife bought it for you, I suppose. Unless she
just wanted to get you out of the house for the evening ;-)
Patriarch
On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 10:09:04 -0400, [email protected]
wrote:
>My wife bought me a used BS for Father's day (you gotta love 'em.... the
>wife... and the tools too!)
>The table has some rust spots on it. I was wondering if it is worth
>getting the table resurfaced (surface ground or sanded). I could use a
>stone and oil then recoat. I got some Boeshield rust remover at a
>woodworking show, and could try that.
>I just thought a resurfacing would eliminate any "bumps".
>If so, where can I get it redone?
>
>Thanks
>Frank
>Raleigh nc
dude, it's a tool not a piece of furniture.
take a wad of steel wool and a squirt of wd40 and get the surface rust
off. coat it with boeshield or wax or whatever and cut some wood.
no matter *what* you use on it the iron will darken with age. it's not
a bad thing.
if the table is warped getting it ground makes sense.