Recommendations For Glue Line Ripping on TS?

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 22:51:49 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:

> Besides, NOT using the WWII is kinda like
>putting plastic wrap on your sofa. :)

That's an interesting way to put it, and I agree. I bought GOOD tools
to _use_. <G>

Barry

>I'm doing a lot of ripping of maple flooring scraps on my TS using a
>combination blade. The scraps are edge joined to make larger panels,
>but I currently need to run the ripped pieces through the planer to
>get the ripped edges clean enough for gluing.
<snip>

With respect to you...
How do you run rippings through your PLANER?

Tales of a Boatbuilder Apprentice
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/djf3rd/

Ed Bailen asks:

>I'm doing a lot of ripping of maple flooring scraps on my TS using a
>combination blade. The scraps are edge joined to make larger panels,
>but I currently need to run the ripped pieces through the planer to
>get the ripped edges clean enough for gluing. I'm ready to spring for
>a good ripping blade, but there are so many choices. Freud alone must
>have 6 or 8 blades they recommend for glue line ripping.

I've got a Freud 30 tooth finish rip blade that does a marvelous job. IIRC<
DeWalt has recently come out with a 40 tooth rip blade, but I've not used it.
Any good 24 or 30 tooth 10" rip blade should work just fine.

Charlie Self
"To create man was a quaint and original idea, but to add the sheep was
tautology." Mark Twain's Notebook

http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html

Blade's as good as your saw in a lot of ways.

More teeth make better cuts if you have a good fence and a good arbor - and
lots of power. Geometry of the much-revered Woodworker II or the
less-touted Freud and Oldham (and others I haven't tried) is normally about
50 teeth. Should do 3/4 maple on a 1.5 HP saw, all things being equal.
I'm such a dinosaur I automatically join a fresh edge, though the days of my
30-tooth all steel rip blade are long past. Still have one of the old steel
hollow-ground blades, and it's top-notch, but getting tough to find
sharpening service.

"Ed Bailen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm doing a lot of ripping of maple flooring scraps on my TS using a
> combination blade. The scraps are edge joined to make larger panels,
> but I currently need to run the ripped pieces through the planer to
> get the ripped edges clean enough for gluing. I'm ready to spring for
> a good ripping blade, but there are so many choices. Freud alone must
> have 6 or 8 blades they recommend for glue line ripping.
>
> I searched the web and Fine Woodworking for rip saw blade reviews, but
> I didn't find anything. If you have nay personal recommendations for
> or against a particular blade, I'd love to hear them.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed

Hi,
I have the LM74R and it gives me a better edge when ripping than my WWll.
Cheers, JG

Jim Ray wrote:

> Ed,
>
> We sell the Freud line of blades, so you can take this for what it is worth.
>
> The Freud LM74 Anti-Vibe Glue Line rip blade is as fine a rip blade as you
> are likely to find. Freud's anti-vibe technology and solid understanding of
> the cutting geometry required to obtain perfect cuts has made this my first
> choice. Rip blades have deep gullets and fewer teeth than cross cut blades
> so that the long stringy chips created don't end up getting cut and recut,
> or plugging in shallower gullets.
>
> I haven't tried it myself, but Freud's demonstration of this blade involved
> ripping 1/8" thick strips off the edge of an oak board, then reassembling
> them. I was difficult to see where one piece started and the next one ended.
>
> Feel free to talk to my Technical Director, Darin Lawrence at 1-800-443-7937
> for additioal information.
>
> Jim Ray, President
> McFeely's Square Drive Screws
> www.mcfeelys.com
>
> --
> email SPAM countermeasures require removal of allnails to reply
> "Ed Bailen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm doing a lot of ripping of maple flooring scraps on my TS using a
> > combination blade. The scraps are edge joined to make larger panels,
> > but I currently need to run the ripped pieces through the planer to
> > get the ripped edges clean enough for gluing. I'm ready to spring for
> > a good ripping blade, but there are so many choices. Freud alone must
> > have 6 or 8 blades they recommend for glue line ripping.
> >
> > I searched the web and Fine Woodworking for rip saw blade reviews, but
> > I didn't find anything. If you have nay personal recommendations for
> > or against a particular blade, I'd love to hear them.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ed

Here I thought the surface was all about finer scratches.

You certainly have a unique view.

"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> George wrote:
> >More teeth make better cuts if you have a good fence and a good arbor -
and
> >lots of power.
>
>
> Eh? More teeth would make it a good cross cut (miter/mitre
> David) blade. From all I've come to know and respect a good
> glue line rip blade is way down on number of teeth embedded
> in the wood at one time.

I note that, as in the jointer thread, some seem to reference the blade,
some the end-to-end deflection of the fence.

Try 1/32 (limit of precision on my 16ths rule) difference from the front to
rear of the fence. Note that degree of blade exposure will cause the
difference to vary if you use the blade as a reference.

Oh yes, as my blade is set parallel to the miter groove, I use it as my
reference.

"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I believe that Forrest recommends .005" if the fence is tight and 1/64th
if
> there is any slop. When I moved my WWII from the contractors saw to the
new
> cabinet saw I went with a measured .005" and it works fine.
>

<el sniperino>
>
>>Best blade you can buy is none too good.
>>Lietz, Leuco, Guido, are my favourites.
>
>Guido???
Oh I dunno Gudeo Guedo Geudo some such name and I have had several
fingers of Rum so don't pin me arse to the blackboard for mispelling
the blasted name.
<insert big silly grin here>
< Ayup blame it on Demon Rum, throw a nickle on the drum save
< another drunken shipwright! :-))))))) >

PAX

Tales of a Boatbuilder Apprentice
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/djf3rd/

Actually, Luigi, since the ripped pieces are about 1x2, I just gang a
bunch of them face to face as you described and run them through
without clamps.

For planks with a higher aspect ratio, I made a sled out of MDF with a
vertical riser dadoed in at a precise 90-degree angle. I clamp the
thinner planks to the riser to clean up the riped face.

Ed

On Thu, 29 Jan 2004 23:56:02 -0800, Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 16:39:56 -0800, Dave Fleming <> scribbled:
>
>>>I'm doing a lot of ripping of maple flooring scraps on my TS using a
>>>combination blade. The scraps are edge joined to make larger panels,
>>>but I currently need to run the ripped pieces through the planer to
>>>get the ripped edges clean enough for gluing.
>><snip>
>>
>>With respect to you...
>>How do you run rippings through your PLANER?
>
>BTDT. Clamp a bunch of them together face to face. Make sure the
>clamps are shorter than the planer is wide, and that there's no chance
>of the blades hitting the clamps
>
>Luigi
>Note the new email address.
>Please adjust your krillfiles (tmAD) accordingly
>Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

Ed,

We sell the Freud line of blades, so you can take this for what it is worth.

The Freud LM74 Anti-Vibe Glue Line rip blade is as fine a rip blade as you
are likely to find. Freud's anti-vibe technology and solid understanding of
the cutting geometry required to obtain perfect cuts has made this my first
choice. Rip blades have deep gullets and fewer teeth than cross cut blades
so that the long stringy chips created don't end up getting cut and recut,
or plugging in shallower gullets.

I haven't tried it myself, but Freud's demonstration of this blade involved
ripping 1/8" thick strips off the edge of an oak board, then reassembling
them. I was difficult to see where one piece started and the next one ended.

Feel free to talk to my Technical Director, Darin Lawrence at 1-800-443-7937
for additioal information.

Jim Ray, President
McFeely's Square Drive Screws
www.mcfeelys.com


--
email SPAM countermeasures require removal of allnails to reply
"Ed Bailen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm doing a lot of ripping of maple flooring scraps on my TS using a
> combination blade. The scraps are edge joined to make larger panels,
> but I currently need to run the ripped pieces through the planer to
> get the ripped edges clean enough for gluing. I'm ready to spring for
> a good ripping blade, but there are so many choices. Freud alone must
> have 6 or 8 blades they recommend for glue line ripping.
>
> I searched the web and Fine Woodworking for rip saw blade reviews, but
> I didn't find anything. If you have nay personal recommendations for
> or against a particular blade, I'd love to hear them.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed

CMT general blade very good. Tenryu general purpose outstanding. These
blades have a lot of teeth for ripping; I like a dedicated rip blade
with more like 20 teeth; cheaper to sharpen as well as low feed
pressure with a 15 to 20 degree hook. Freud "glue line rip" good.Howe

Eric, I must be a lot more lazy than you because I had every intention
of putting in the WWII for the "special" cuts. No way can I do that; it
stays in the TS unless I cut melamine and then I put in the Freud double
sided melamine blade to avoid ALL chip out. I don't have the patience
to keep changing blades. Besides, NOT using the WWII is kinda like
putting plastic wrap on your sofa. :)

dave

Eric Johnson wrote:

> I've had great luck with CMT sawblades. They have a 10" 60 tooth
> "cabinetmakers" blade that I get great performance from for general use and
> has been to the sharpening shop twice and comes back for more. I have no
> reservation recommending it for glue joints. I do also have a Woodworker II
> but it's so expensive I tend to save it for only the most critical cuts,
> hands down the best blade I've got in the 10" collection. Here is also a
> review from shopnotes I found.
>
>
> http://www.woodnet.net/toolreviews/blad_rev.html
>
>

That's not a unique view, it is an accurate one and I would wager one that
*most* have.


"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Here I thought the surface was all about finer scratches.
>
> You certainly have a unique view.
>
> "Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > George wrote:
> > >More teeth make better cuts if you have a good fence and a good arbor -
> and
> > >lots of power.
> >
> >
> > Eh? More teeth would make it a good cross cut (miter/mitre
> > David) blade. From all I've come to know and respect a good
> > glue line rip blade is way down on number of teeth embedded
> > in the wood at one time.
>
>

"Tom Watson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:38:04 -0800, Dave Fleming <> wrote:
>
> >Good advice ***if** using a powered feeder but, for hand feeding I
> >have been sucessful with using the thickness of a Bicycle playing card
> >approx. .010 to .011 of an inch, as a guage for the distance away
> >from the blade at rear of fence.
>
> This is a hell of a lot more reasonable than the amount that I've seen
> expressed.
>
>
> >And no matter what ,if you even think there might be some deflection
> >from either way....Backup that rear clamp as best you can!!!!!!!
>
> Amen Brother. I have a Delta GooneyFence, and, when I use the stock
> feeder, I clamp that bad boy down as tight as I can get it.
>

I believe that Forrest recommends .005" if the fence is tight and 1/64th if
there is any slop. When I moved my WWII from the contractors saw to the new
cabinet saw I went with a measured .005" and it works fine.

John

John

I've had great luck with CMT sawblades. They have a 10" 60 tooth
"cabinetmakers" blade that I get great performance from for general use and
has been to the sharpening shop twice and comes back for more. I have no
reservation recommending it for glue joints. I do also have a Woodworker II
but it's so expensive I tend to save it for only the most critical cuts,
hands down the best blade I've got in the 10" collection. Here is also a
review from shopnotes I found.


http://www.woodnet.net/toolreviews/blad_rev.html

No doubt, I love it. Lock and key for 2 reasons.
I have several thousand Bd ft of reclaimed walnut in the storage shed that
came from an old barn that most of my projects have been made from lately. I
do my best with the metal detector but...
I have one of the more well equiped shops around and have frequent "can I
quick do this" types stopping in. You know the folks I mean, the ones when
the works done and equipment is shut down you hand 'em a bud light and
save the Moosehead for yourself .
EJ

"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Eric, I must be a lot more lazy than you because I had every intention
> of putting in the WWII for the "special" cuts. No way can I do that; it
> stays in the TS unless I cut melamine and then I put in the Freud double
> sided melamine blade to avoid ALL chip out. I don't have the patience
> to keep changing blades. Besides, NOT using the WWII is kinda like
> putting plastic wrap on your sofa. :)
>
> dave
>
> Eric Johnson wrote:
>
> > I've had great luck with CMT sawblades. They have a 10" 60 tooth
> > "cabinetmakers" blade that I get great performance from for general use
and
> > has been to the sharpening shop twice and comes back for more. I have no
> > reservation recommending it for glue joints. I do also have a Woodworker
II
> > but it's so expensive I tend to save it for only the most critical cuts,
> > hands down the best blade I've got in the 10" collection. Here is also a
> > review from shopnotes I found.
> >
> >
> > http://www.woodnet.net/toolreviews/blad_rev.html
> >
> >
>

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 15:48:28 -0600, Ed Bailen <[email protected]> wrote:

>I'm doing a lot of ripping of maple flooring scraps on my TS using a
>combination blade. The scraps are edge joined to make larger panels,
>but I currently need to run the ripped pieces through the planer to
>get the ripped edges clean enough for gluing. I'm ready to spring for
>a good ripping blade, but there are so many choices. Freud alone must
>have 6 or 8 blades they recommend for glue line ripping.
>
>I searched the web and Fine Woodworking for rip saw blade reviews, but
>I didn't find anything. If you have nay personal recommendations for
>or against a particular blade, I'd love to hear them.
>
>Thanks,
>Ed


Read up on glue line ripping by doing a Google search. It's worth the
time.

I use a Leuco Glue Line Blade (been using the same blade for ten years
and never needed to do more than a tune up with a diamond hone) and,
when doing repetitive cuts, I move the stock feeder from it's normal
position on the shaper to the tablesaw, so as to eliminate the feed
rate/direction/holddown variable.

It's important to set the blade up dead parallel to the fence and it's
more important that the fence not move or flex under feed pressure.

Experiment with blade heights before doing your production run. The
blade height/angle of attack has a lot to do with the result.

Once you are set up it is easy to get nearly jointer quality rips out
of the tablesaur, providing that you ignore the people who say that
the fence should be kicked out 1/64" (a huge amount) from front to
back.

The fence shoulf be as parallel to the cutting plane of the blade as
is humanly possible and your stock prep should have already taken care
of bows and bellies.

Hoadley is good on the understanding of joint edge quality in relation
to gluing. I don't have his current version but the old one is very
informative on this.

Good Luck.
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 23:23:45 -0500, Tom Watson wrote:


> Well, I'm hoping 'tis goodish Rum. In my Rum drinking days I drank a
> nice dark Myers Rum, with a bit of Rose's Lime Juice and a piece of
> some kind of garbage, that was usually identified as a citrus of some
> sort - but it really didn't matter.
>
> These were usually consumed in the shade of the mains'l, when the sun
> was over the yardarm - and all that good shit.
>
> Given the fact that my largest sailing vessel is a board boat of
> indeterminate and unremarkable length, in theses dark and married
> days, and that I've no current use for gimballed drink holders, much
> to my regret, the whole friggin' thing don't serve no more than to
> make me cast a wondering eye onto what might have been - had I stayed
> single, and thus rich.

Awww, Tawmmy, Tawmmy - Yee know as well as I that yee would'n have the
k'board ta complain on if'n it had'n be'n for the fortuitous intersection
of the Old Boiler and Yee resultin' in your handsome state of current
prosperity.

BTDT,

-Doug

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 16:39:56 -0800, Dave Fleming <> scribbled:

>>I'm doing a lot of ripping of maple flooring scraps on my TS using a
>>combination blade. The scraps are edge joined to make larger panels,
>>but I currently need to run the ripped pieces through the planer to
>>get the ripped edges clean enough for gluing.
><snip>
>
>With respect to you...
>How do you run rippings through your PLANER?

BTDT. Clamp a bunch of them together face to face. Make sure the
clamps are shorter than the planer is wide, and that there's no chance
of the blades hitting the clamps

Luigi
Note the new email address.
Please adjust your krillfiles (tmAD) accordingly
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

<severe snip>
>Once you are set up it is easy to get nearly jointer quality rips out
>of the tablesaur, providing that you ignore the people who say that
>the fence should be kicked out 1/64" (a huge amount) from front to
>back.
>
<'nuther severe snip>

Good advice ***if** using a powered feeder but, for hand feeding I
have been sucessful with using the thickness of a Bicycle playing card
approx. .010 to .011 of an inch, as a guage for the distance away
from the blade at rear of fence.
And no matter what ,if you even think there might be some deflection
from either way....Backup that rear clamp as best you can!!!!!!!
Best blade you can buy is none too good.
Lietz, Leuco, Guido, are my favourites.
Had an old North American Carbide that was ACES but somehow it took a
walk one fine day and hasn't come back, sigh.
Tales of a Boatbuilder Apprentice
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/djf3rd/

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 22:36:05 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:

>both the Forrest WWII and the Freud double melamine blades do super
>smooth cuts.

For lots of ripping of hardwoods, I prefer a Freud Industrial or
Systematic rip blade over my WWII.

The WWII rips fine, with a very occasional burn, usually due to me
swapping hands or stopping for some other reason. I find the
dedicated rip blades faster and easier to use if I've got a lot to do.

Just a couple to do? I leave the WWII on the saw.

Barry

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:56:35 -0800, Dave Fleming <> wrote:

><el sniperino>
>>
>>>Best blade you can buy is none too good.
>>>Lietz, Leuco, Guido, are my favourites.
>>
>>Guido???
>Oh I dunno Gudeo Guedo Geudo some such name and I have had several
>fingers of Rum so don't pin me arse to the blackboard for mispelling
>the blasted name.
> <insert big silly grin here>
> < Ayup blame it on Demon Rum, throw a nickle on the drum save
> < another drunken shipwright! :-))))))) >
>
>PAX
>
>Tales of a Boatbuilder Apprentice
>http://pages.sbcglobal.net/djf3rd/


Well, I'm hoping 'tis goodish Rum. In my Rum drinking days I drank a
nice dark Myers Rum, with a bit of Rose's Lime Juice and a piece of
some kind of garbage, that was usually identified as a citrus of some
sort - but it really didn't matter.

These were usually consumed in the shade of the mains'l, when the sun
was over the yardarm - and all that good shit.

Given the fact that my largest sailing vessel is a board boat of
indeterminate and unremarkable length, in theses dark and married
days, and that I've no current use for gimballed drink holders, much
to my regret, the whole friggin' thing don't serve no more than to
make me cast a wondering eye onto what might have been - had I stayed
single, and thus rich.

Ah well.

OBWW - I was just looking for a cheap sawblade to use in the place of
these gottdamned 'spensive ones.



Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

both the Forrest WWII and the Freud double melamine blades do super
smooth cuts. those are the only two I can vouch for. I'm willing to
bet there are a whole lot more blades out there up to the task. Since
those 2 blades work so well for me, I'm not gonna try any others, at
this point.

dave

Ed Bailen wrote:

> I'm doing a lot of ripping of maple flooring scraps on my TS using a
> combination blade. The scraps are edge joined to make larger panels,
> but I currently need to run the ripped pieces through the planer to
> get the ripped edges clean enough for gluing. I'm ready to spring for
> a good ripping blade, but there are so many choices. Freud alone must
> have 6 or 8 blades they recommend for glue line ripping.
>
> I searched the web and Fine Woodworking for rip saw blade reviews, but
> I didn't find anything. If you have nay personal recommendations for
> or against a particular blade, I'd love to hear them.
>
> Thanks,
> Ed

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:56:35 -0800, Dave Fleming <> brought forth from
the murky depths:

><el sniperino>
>>
>>>Best blade you can buy is none too good.
>>>Lietz, Leuco, Guido, are my favourites.
>>
>>Guido???
>Oh I dunno Gudeo Guedo Geudo some such name and I have had several
>fingers of Rum so don't pin me arse to the blackboard for mispelling
>the blasted name.
> <insert big silly grin here>
> < Ayup blame it on Demon Rum, throw a nickle on the drum save
> < another drunken shipwright! :-))))))) >
>
>PAX

Iffen you want somethin' ta set yer sails on fire, get
with the Lemonhart 151 Demerara rum. It saved me during
an auto wreck (I was a loose passenger) one eve.

Public Service Message: Don't Grog and Drive machinery.


----------------------------------------------
CAUTION: Driver Legally B l o n d (e)
http://www.diversify.com Web Database Development
=======================================================

On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:38:04 -0800, Dave Fleming <> wrote:

>Good advice ***if** using a powered feeder but, for hand feeding I
>have been sucessful with using the thickness of a Bicycle playing card
>approx. .010 to .011 of an inch, as a guage for the distance away
>from the blade at rear of fence.

This is a hell of a lot more reasonable than the amount that I've seen
expressed.


>And no matter what ,if you even think there might be some deflection
>from either way....Backup that rear clamp as best you can!!!!!!!

Amen Brother. I have a Delta GooneyFence, and, when I use the stock
feeder, I clamp that bad boy down as tight as I can get it.


>Best blade you can buy is none too good.
>Lietz, Leuco, Guido, are my favourites.

Guido???


Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

Tom Watson wrote:
> Experiment with blade heights before doing your production run. The
> blade height/angle of attack has a lot to do with the result.
>> Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)

Makes sense. Do you find much difference with different blades and wood? Or
thickness?
--
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

George wrote:
>More teeth make better cuts if you have a good fence and a good arbor - and
>lots of power.


Eh? More teeth would make it a good cross cut (miter/mitre
David) blade. From all I've come to know and respect a good
glue line rip blade is way down on number of teeth embedded
in the wood at one time.

More teeth = slow feed rate while ripping and burning.

You are right about more teeth requiring more power.

Of course I could be wrong but given the myths stated here
(PVC dust collection starts fires/band saw wheels and
coplanar/tipping your rip fence out away from the back edge
of the blade) lately I'm thinking maybe we should get back
to quoting the text and not passing along links to The
Lumber Car.

UA100