How to make uniform, tapered ends of stopped flutes?

I always thought a lamb's tongue was the overhanging part of a rail
where it ends. Maybe that was a goats tongue.

bs wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> What you may be looking for is a Lamb's Tongue which is usually done on
> beveled edges of legs etc. Google for Lamb's Tongue then try using a
> carving gouge to finish the flute but be sure to carve into the flute to
> prevent chip-out.
>
> Bob S.
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I gave it a quick try Tom, by manually raising the board off the router
> > table. The result is too broad due to the shape of the round nose bit.
> > I think to duplicate what I have in mind probably requires a Neander
> > approach? I've been trying to find an example on the net to show you;
> > what I saw was in a magazine at a book store.
> >
> > dave
> >
> > Tom Watson wrote:
> >
> > > On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:02:26 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >>I just picked up a 3/16 round nose bit to rout flutes. I like the look
> > >>of flutes that start and stop with finely pointed tapers. Is there a
> > >>particular type of chisel to do that? Power tool or neander, I don't
> > >>care, as long as they come out even.
> > >
> > >
> > > Dave:
> > >
> > > Put a square sub base on your router.
> > >
> > > Make a ramp in the shape of a wedge (start with a 1/12 pitch) for the
> > > router to ride up on.
> > >
> > > Clamp the ramp to the workpiece.
> > >
> > > Run the flutes normally to the point where the router sub base makes
> > > contact with the ramp.
> > >
> > > Go up the ramp.
> > >
> > >
> > > Regards, Tom
> > > Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
> > > Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
> > > http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
> >

--

Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
...........................................
It's always darkest before you step on
the cat.


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Bay Area Dave wrote:

> Andy, any idea if that is available in the US, and if so, how much is it?
>
> dave

Take a look at Jesada's "3D Router Carver Bit" on the following page:

http://iseek.com/Projects/omnicat5/index.php?cat_id=0

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Dave,

A set of hand carving tools (inexpensive ones) like here

http://www.woodworkerswarehouse.com

and search for carving tools. I think they're about $20 for a set. Your
flute is only 3/16" wide so a small gouge should work.

I tried going to the site and doing the search but RR is having a problem
tonight and you can't get there from here right now.

Bob S.

"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> i just whipped out my woodcraft catalog. there are parting tool and
> wing parting tools that have sharp V shapes. Looks like I'd need one of
> those plus another broader gouge. That could run into some serious
> money at $35 to $60 a pop. There's gotta be a cheaper solution...
>
>
> dave
>
> bs wrote:
>
> > Dave,
> >
> > What you may be looking for is a Lamb's Tongue which is usually done on
> > beveled edges of legs etc. Google for Lamb's Tongue then try using a
> > carving gouge to finish the flute but be sure to carve into the flute to
> > prevent chip-out.
> >
> > Bob S.
> >
> >
> > "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>I gave it a quick try Tom, by manually raising the board off the router
> >>table. The result is too broad due to the shape of the round nose bit.
> >> I think to duplicate what I have in mind probably requires a Neander
> >>approach? I've been trying to find an example on the net to show you;
> >>what I saw was in a magazine at a book store.
> >>
> >>dave
> >>
> >>Tom Watson wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:02:26 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
> >>>wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>I just picked up a 3/16 round nose bit to rout flutes. I like the
look
> >>>>of flutes that start and stop with finely pointed tapers. Is there a
> >>>>particular type of chisel to do that? Power tool or neander, I don't
> >>>>care, as long as they come out even.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>Dave:
> >>>
> >>>Put a square sub base on your router.
> >>>
> >>>Make a ramp in the shape of a wedge (start with a 1/12 pitch) for the
> >>>router to ride up on.
> >>>
> >>>Clamp the ramp to the workpiece.
> >>>
> >>>Run the flutes normally to the point where the router sub base makes
> >>>contact with the ramp.
> >>>
> >>>Go up the ramp.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>Regards, Tom
> >>>Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
> >>>Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
> >>>http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
> >>
> >
> >
>

i just whipped out my woodcraft catalog. there are parting tool and
wing parting tools that have sharp V shapes. Looks like I'd need one of
those plus another broader gouge. That could run into some serious
money at $35 to $60 a pop. There's gotta be a cheaper solution...


dave

bs wrote:

> Dave,
>
> What you may be looking for is a Lamb's Tongue which is usually done on
> beveled edges of legs etc. Google for Lamb's Tongue then try using a
> carving gouge to finish the flute but be sure to carve into the flute to
> prevent chip-out.
>
> Bob S.
>
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I gave it a quick try Tom, by manually raising the board off the router
>>table. The result is too broad due to the shape of the round nose bit.
>> I think to duplicate what I have in mind probably requires a Neander
>>approach? I've been trying to find an example on the net to show you;
>>what I saw was in a magazine at a book store.
>>
>>dave
>>
>>Tom Watson wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:02:26 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>I just picked up a 3/16 round nose bit to rout flutes. I like the look
>>>>of flutes that start and stop with finely pointed tapers. Is there a
>>>>particular type of chisel to do that? Power tool or neander, I don't
>>>>care, as long as they come out even.
>>>
>>>
>>>Dave:
>>>
>>>Put a square sub base on your router.
>>>
>>>Make a ramp in the shape of a wedge (start with a 1/12 pitch) for the
>>>router to ride up on.
>>>
>>>Clamp the ramp to the workpiece.
>>>
>>>Run the flutes normally to the point where the router sub base makes
>>>contact with the ramp.
>>>
>>>Go up the ramp.
>>>
>>>
>>>Regards, Tom
>>>Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
>>>Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
>>>http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
>>
>
>

I gave it a quick try Tom, by manually raising the board off the router
table. The result is too broad due to the shape of the round nose bit.
I think to duplicate what I have in mind probably requires a Neander
approach? I've been trying to find an example on the net to show you;
what I saw was in a magazine at a book store.

dave

Tom Watson wrote:

> On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:02:26 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I just picked up a 3/16 round nose bit to rout flutes. I like the look
>>of flutes that start and stop with finely pointed tapers. Is there a
>>particular type of chisel to do that? Power tool or neander, I don't
>>care, as long as they come out even.
>
>
> Dave:
>
> Put a square sub base on your router.
>
> Make a ramp in the shape of a wedge (start with a 1/12 pitch) for the
> router to ride up on.
>
> Clamp the ramp to the workpiece.
>
> Run the flutes normally to the point where the router sub base makes
> contact with the ramp.
>
> Go up the ramp.
>
>
> Regards, Tom
> Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
> Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
> http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

Carving sets

http://tinyurl.com/rz2y

would ONE gouge be enough to get the narrow taper near the surface and
also clean out the section down in the flute area, or would I need 2 or
three different gouges? Do they have names or do I just look at shapes
and get what looks appropriate?

dave

bs wrote:

> Dave,
>
> What you may be looking for is a Lamb's Tongue which is usually done on
> beveled edges of legs etc. Google for Lamb's Tongue then try using a
> carving gouge to finish the flute but be sure to carve into the flute to
> prevent chip-out.
>
> Bob S.
>
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I gave it a quick try Tom, by manually raising the board off the router
>>table. The result is too broad due to the shape of the round nose bit.
>> I think to duplicate what I have in mind probably requires a Neander
>>approach? I've been trying to find an example on the net to show you;
>>what I saw was in a magazine at a book store.
>>
>>dave
>>
>>Tom Watson wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:02:26 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>I just picked up a 3/16 round nose bit to rout flutes. I like the look
>>>>of flutes that start and stop with finely pointed tapers. Is there a
>>>>particular type of chisel to do that? Power tool or neander, I don't
>>>>care, as long as they come out even.
>>>
>>>
>>>Dave:
>>>
>>>Put a square sub base on your router.
>>>
>>>Make a ramp in the shape of a wedge (start with a 1/12 pitch) for the
>>>router to ride up on.
>>>
>>>Clamp the ramp to the workpiece.
>>>
>>>Run the flutes normally to the point where the router sub base makes
>>>contact with the ramp.
>>>
>>>Go up the ramp.
>>>
>>>
>>>Regards, Tom
>>>Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
>>>Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
>>>http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
>>
>
>

Andy, any idea if that is available in the US, and if so, how much is it?

dave

Andy Dingley wrote:

> On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 15:47:08 -0400, Gerald Ross
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I always thought a lamb's tongue was the overhanging part of a rail
>>where it ends. Maybe that was a goats tongue.
>
>
> A lamb's tongue is just a tapered wiggle shape. You can have a rail
> end that's a lamb's tongue, or you can equally well have a stopped
> chamfer with a lamb's tongue. But I can't see how you could have one
> in a flat surface.
>
> Best gadget I've seen for tapered grooves is the sign cutter and
> engraving set from Trend. You use a plunge router, ideally with their
> plunge bar, and a special cutter with a sharp vee nose and a tapered
> guide bearing. It's then guided in a grooved template, with varying
> groove width. Keeping some plunge pressure on, and the tapered
> bearing, means that cutter depth tracks the template groove width.
>
> I know some people have used the ramped guide, but it never worked for
> me. maybe worth trying if your router is a fixed base.
>
>
> --
> Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Bob,

Thanks again! I searched that page and expanded the picture of the
$34.99 set. Those look like a great choice for me, because of the price
and assortment. For occasional use, I wouldn't want to drop $30 - $60
for just one gouge.

dave

bs wrote:

> Carving sets
>
> http://tinyurl.com/rz2y
>
>
>
>

On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 15:47:08 -0400, Gerald Ross
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I always thought a lamb's tongue was the overhanging part of a rail
>where it ends. Maybe that was a goats tongue.

A lamb's tongue is just a tapered wiggle shape. You can have a rail
end that's a lamb's tongue, or you can equally well have a stopped
chamfer with a lamb's tongue. But I can't see how you could have one
in a flat surface.

Best gadget I've seen for tapered grooves is the sign cutter and
engraving set from Trend. You use a plunge router, ideally with their
plunge bar, and a special cutter with a sharp vee nose and a tapered
guide bearing. It's then guided in a grooved template, with varying
groove width. Keeping some plunge pressure on, and the tapered
bearing, means that cutter depth tracks the template groove width.

I know some people have used the ramped guide, but it never worked for
me. maybe worth trying if your router is a fixed base.


--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:02:26 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I just picked up a 3/16 round nose bit to rout flutes. I like the look
>of flutes that start and stop with finely pointed tapers. Is there a
>particular type of chisel to do that? Power tool or neander, I don't
>care, as long as they come out even.

Dave:

Put a square sub base on your router.

Make a ramp in the shape of a wedge (start with a 1/12 pitch) for the
router to ride up on.

Clamp the ramp to the workpiece.

Run the flutes normally to the point where the router sub base makes
contact with the ramp.

Go up the ramp.


Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

Dave,

What you may be looking for is a Lamb's Tongue which is usually done on
beveled edges of legs etc. Google for Lamb's Tongue then try using a
carving gouge to finish the flute but be sure to carve into the flute to
prevent chip-out.

Bob S.


"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I gave it a quick try Tom, by manually raising the board off the router
> table. The result is too broad due to the shape of the round nose bit.
> I think to duplicate what I have in mind probably requires a Neander
> approach? I've been trying to find an example on the net to show you;
> what I saw was in a magazine at a book store.
>
> dave
>
> Tom Watson wrote:
>
> > On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:02:26 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >
> >
> >>I just picked up a 3/16 round nose bit to rout flutes. I like the look
> >>of flutes that start and stop with finely pointed tapers. Is there a
> >>particular type of chisel to do that? Power tool or neander, I don't
> >>care, as long as they come out even.
> >
> >
> > Dave:
> >
> > Put a square sub base on your router.
> >
> > Make a ramp in the shape of a wedge (start with a 1/12 pitch) for the
> > router to ride up on.
> >
> > Clamp the ramp to the workpiece.
> >
> > Run the flutes normally to the point where the router sub base makes
> > contact with the ramp.
> >
> > Go up the ramp.
> >
> >
> > Regards, Tom
> > Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
> > Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
> > http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
>