On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. The closest I can come
is to use the TS to cut 2 ea. 1/8" dados and then relieve the edges
CAREFULLY with a round nose bit. Then some sanding... It's very
difficult to get the traditional rounded profile of the bead. I looked
into getting a molding bit for my Sears molding cutter, but the bead bit
makes 3 beads. This isn't something I need to do often, so I don't want
to invest in another brand of molding cutter, even if they have a single
bead bit. Suggestions?
dave
In article <[email protected]>,
Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. The closest I can come
>is to use the TS to cut 2 ea. 1/8" dados and then relieve the edges
>CAREFULLY with a round nose bit. Then some sanding... It's very
>difficult to get the traditional rounded profile of the bead. I looked
>into getting a molding bit for my Sears molding cutter, but the bead bit
>makes 3 beads. This isn't something I need to do often, so I don't want
>to invest in another brand of molding cutter, even if they have a single
>bead bit. Suggestions?
>
>
>dave
>
I have cut similar beads by cutting the sawblade kerfs as you did,
then using a rabbet plane and shape the bead by eye. A #75 works
well for this (proviede the bead is parallel to the grain,
not across it) and it's probably the cheapest rabbet plane available.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Dave,
They do have a single bead cutters as shown on-line.
Sears item #00923218000 ($10.99) Craftsman Beaded Ceiling Cutter
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00923218000
Sears item #00903208000 ($9.99) Craftsman 1/4in Bead Cutter Bit
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00903208000
Bob S.
News Junky wrote:
>
> Buy the 3 bead cutter from Sears and use a sacrificial board on your rip
> fence so that only one bead is cut. Cut the face, flip the stock, and cut
> the edge.
They also make a combo cutter that does a single bead or a 1/4 rd. I
just used mine on some oak boards this past weekend.
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.
bs wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> They do have a single bead cutters as shown on-line.
>
> Sears item #00923218000 ($10.99) Craftsman Beaded Ceiling Cutter
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00923218000
>
> Sears item #00903208000 ($9.99) Craftsman 1/4in Bead Cutter Bit
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00903208000
>
> Bob S.
The 2nd one is the one I mentioned using in an earlier post. Either
would work very well.
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.
thanks, Bob! I'm gonna check with a different Sears store in my area to
see if they stock these puppies...
dave
bs wrote:
> Dave,
>
> They do have a single bead cutters as shown on-line.
>
> Sears item #00923218000 ($10.99) Craftsman Beaded Ceiling Cutter
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00923218000
>
>
> Sears item #00903208000 ($9.99) Craftsman 1/4in Bead Cutter Bit
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00903208000
>
> Bob S.
>
>
thanks, Chuck. That picture makes it clear to me (finally) how to make
a straight bead. Previous pictures I'd looked at were taken from a
different perspective making it hard for me to visualize. I have,
however, picked up the proper tool at Sears to fit my molding cutter. I
had posted here because I couldn't find my tool catalog at home and
incorrectly thought that there wasn't a ONE bead tool available. Your
method I shall hold in reserve for when I can't BUY the profile I need.
dave
Conan the Librarian wrote:
> Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>
>>On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. The closest I can come
>>is to use the TS to cut 2 ea. 1/8" dados and then relieve the edges
>>CAREFULLY with a round nose bit. Then some sanding... It's very
>>difficult to get the traditional rounded profile of the bead. I looked
>>into getting a molding bit for my Sears molding cutter, but the bead bit
>>makes 3 beads. This isn't something I need to do often, so I don't want
>>to invest in another brand of molding cutter, even if they have a single
>>bead bit. Suggestions?
>
>
> Count me in the scratch stock camp. You can make one from an old
> wooden marking gage and some scraper stock. Back out the pin and cut
> a vertical kerf in the end of the beam of the gage.
>
> Then drill two holes; one all the way through the beam for bolting
> the kerf closed at the end of the arm, and the other for inserting a
> flat-bottomed machine screw to hold the stock in place (this hole only
> goes as far as the depth of the kerf).
>
> The stock is made from a hand scraper blade drilled, cut and filed
> to the desired profile. (Chainsaw files work well for fairing the
> profile.) You can make up any profile that your heart desires. Also,
> because the fence on the gage, you have a lot more flexibility than
> some of the fixed scratch stocks I've seen.
>
> (A picture of the one I made is at:
> http://www.swt.edu/~cv01/gage.gif)
>
>
> Chuck Vance
Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. The closest I can come
> is to use the TS to cut 2 ea. 1/8" dados and then relieve the edges
> CAREFULLY with a round nose bit. Then some sanding... It's very
> difficult to get the traditional rounded profile of the bead. I looked
> into getting a molding bit for my Sears molding cutter, but the bead bit
> makes 3 beads. This isn't something I need to do often, so I don't want
> to invest in another brand of molding cutter, even if they have a single
> bead bit. Suggestions?
Count me in the scratch stock camp. You can make one from an old
wooden marking gage and some scraper stock. Back out the pin and cut
a vertical kerf in the end of the beam of the gage.
Then drill two holes; one all the way through the beam for bolting
the kerf closed at the end of the arm, and the other for inserting a
flat-bottomed machine screw to hold the stock in place (this hole only
goes as far as the depth of the kerf).
The stock is made from a hand scraper blade drilled, cut and filed
to the desired profile. (Chainsaw files work well for fairing the
profile.) You can make up any profile that your heart desires. Also,
because the fence on the gage, you have a lot more flexibility than
some of the fixed scratch stocks I've seen.
(A picture of the one I made is at:
http://www.swt.edu/~cv01/gage.gif)
Chuck Vance
There is some scratch stock info here. Practice on scraps of the same
species of wood first.
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/scratch.html
Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Tom, thanks for that idea. I searched Google for instructions and
> found only links to video instructions.<snip>
Wed, Oct 22, 2003, 4:10pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (Bay=A0Area=A0Dave)
laments:
On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. <snip>
No prob Dave. You can make as many, or as little, as you want with
this method.
http://www.sacredspiral.com/crafts/stiks/twigbds.html
Google works every time.
JOAT
Make my shorts. Eat my day.
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 21 Oct 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
Scratch stock is the surest way to get it authentic.
The quickest might be to use a steep 'V" bit in a router and route two
shallow "v"'s , side by side, the correct distance apart, then round the
intervening edges with sand paper or a scraper.
I've also used a Dremel tool and one of Dremel's little bits to do the same
thing on more than one occasion.
A kludge, but It looks like a bead when you're done ... at least it
satisfied SWMBO the last time I did it (.. route a bead that is.)
Another method for a raised bead is some 1/8" stock with one edge rounded
over, then sandwiched between two wider boards. Once the glue is dry, rip
the piece to width.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03
"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
> Can't do that for this project. The bead centered on a 1 1/8" board.
Bob, thank you, thank you, thank you!! I went across town to Sears and
got the single and 3 bead molding bits. I just installed the single and
ran a piece of wood through it. It's PERFECT! Exactly the profile I
wanted and a great quality of cut! Thanks SO much for your help!
And thanks to the lady at Sears who didn't give up searching the aisles
for a tool that she had a hard time finding. In fact when I got there,
she had stepped out for a few minutes so I roamed the aisles to find the
section with the various molding bits, and gave up. Right after I paid
for the one that she put aside, she showed up and showed me where she
found them. So here is a gal, not completely familiar with what she was
looking for, who found them (it's a BIG tool dept), and I couldn't.
dave
bs wrote:
> Dave,
>
> They do have a single bead cutters as shown on-line.
>
> Sears item #00923218000 ($10.99) Craftsman Beaded Ceiling Cutter
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00923218000
>
>
> Sears item #00903208000 ($9.99) Craftsman 1/4in Bead Cutter Bit
> http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00903208000
>
> Bob S.
>
>
thanks, Charles.
I took a look at that link and saved it. That appears to be a
serviceable, albeit "last resort" method, huh? I had envisioned a much
simpler tool just dragging along the stock...
I just picked up the single bead bit that I couldn't spot in the Sears
catalog. Bob S. found the part number for me (bless his soul) and I
just got back from Sears with it and ran a piece of stock through it
with PERFECTO results.
dave
Charles Erskine wrote:
> There is some scratch stock info here. Practice on scraps of the same
> species of wood first.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/plybench/scratch.html
>
> Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>>Tom, thanks for that idea. I searched Google for instructions and
>>found only links to video instructions.<snip>
I'll keep your method in mind. :)
dave
T. wrote:
> Wed, Oct 22, 2003, 4:10pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (Bay Area Dave)
> laments:
> On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. <snip>
>
> No prob Dave. You can make as many, or as little, as you want with
> this method.
> http://www.sacredspiral.com/crafts/stiks/twigbds.html
>
> Google works every time.
>
> JOAT
> Make my shorts. Eat my day.
>
> Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
> Web Page Update 21 Oct 2003.
> Some tunes I like.
> http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
>
elegant solution! I was envisioning spending lots of time with a round
file! :)
dave
Andy Dingley wrote:
snip
>
>
> To make a single bead cutter, start by drilling one or three round
> holes, then cutting the edge back to expose them. It's easier than
> trying to grind a semi-circle into the edge.
>
> --
> Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
I haven't followed this thread from the start so ignore this if
it has already been said.
Cut a dado in the face of the board and glue in a dowel.
Art
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can't do that for this project. The bead centered on a 1 1/8" board.
>
> Secret Squirrel wrote:
>
> > "bs" <[email protected]> wrote in
> > news:UUylb.18058$%[email protected]:
> >
> >
> >>Dave,
> >>
> >>Get the Sears cutter bead cutter set ($11) and grind down the outer
> >>edges leaving a single bead. Be sure to take the edges off fairly
> >>evenly so things aren't to far out of balance. I had a set that I
> >>ground down after making beaded door panels for my SIL (remember that
> >>thread?).
> >>
> >>I found it to be the most economical and efficient method for me - but
> >>I was making 40+ panels too.
> >>
> >>Bob S.
> >>
> >>"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >>>On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. The closest I can
> >>>come is to use the TS to cut 2 ea. 1/8" dados and then relieve the
> >>>edges CAREFULLY with a round nose bit. Then some sanding... It's very
> >>>difficult to get the traditional rounded profile of the bead. I
> >>>looked into getting a molding bit for my Sears molding cutter, but
> >>>the bead bit makes 3 beads. This isn't something I need to do often,
> >>>so I don't want to invest in another brand of molding cutter, even if
> >>>they have a single bead bit. Suggestions?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>dave
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Even easier is to use the three bead profile and bury two of the three
> > inside a sacrifical fence. Only allow the portion you need outside of the
> > fence wih no need to modify the cutters
>
Dave,
Get the Sears cutter bead cutter set ($11) and grind down the outer edges
leaving a single bead. Be sure to take the edges off fairly evenly so
things aren't to far out of balance. I had a set that I ground down after
making beaded door panels for my SIL (remember that thread?).
I found it to be the most economical and efficient method for me - but I was
making 40+ panels too.
Bob S.
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. The closest I can come
> is to use the TS to cut 2 ea. 1/8" dados and then relieve the edges
> CAREFULLY with a round nose bit. Then some sanding... It's very
> difficult to get the traditional rounded profile of the bead. I looked
> into getting a molding bit for my Sears molding cutter, but the bead bit
> makes 3 beads. This isn't something I need to do often, so I don't want
> to invest in another brand of molding cutter, even if they have a single
> bead bit. Suggestions?
>
>
> dave
>
Tom, thanks for that idea. I searched Google for instructions and
found only links to video instructions. Could you enlighten me further?
I presume I could use a putty knife? Do I cut the two kerfs on my TS
first, and then drag the profiled knife down the center, over and over
to get it to conform to the round bead shape? Do I grind a bevel on the
tool?
Cluelessly, Dave
Tom Watson wrote:
> On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:10:58 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. The closest I can come
>>is to use the TS to cut 2 ea. 1/8" dados and then relieve the edges
>>CAREFULLY with a round nose bit. Then some sanding... It's very
>>difficult to get the traditional rounded profile of the bead. I looked
>>into getting a molding bit for my Sears molding cutter, but the bead bit
>>makes 3 beads. This isn't something I need to do often, so I don't want
>>to invest in another brand of molding cutter, even if they have a single
>>bead bit. Suggestions?
>
>
>
> Dave:
>
> Make a scratchstock.
>
>
>
> Regards, Tom
> Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
> Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
> http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
"bs" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:UUylb.18058$%[email protected]:
> Dave,
>
> Get the Sears cutter bead cutter set ($11) and grind down the outer
> edges leaving a single bead. Be sure to take the edges off fairly
> evenly so things aren't to far out of balance. I had a set that I
> ground down after making beaded door panels for my SIL (remember that
> thread?).
>
> I found it to be the most economical and efficient method for me - but
> I was making 40+ panels too.
>
> Bob S.
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. The closest I can
>> come is to use the TS to cut 2 ea. 1/8" dados and then relieve the
>> edges CAREFULLY with a round nose bit. Then some sanding... It's very
>> difficult to get the traditional rounded profile of the bead. I
>> looked into getting a molding bit for my Sears molding cutter, but
>> the bead bit makes 3 beads. This isn't something I need to do often,
>> so I don't want to invest in another brand of molding cutter, even if
>> they have a single bead bit. Suggestions?
>>
>>
>> dave
>>
>
>
Even easier is to use the three bead profile and bury two of the three
inside a sacrifical fence. Only allow the portion you need outside of the
fence wih no need to modify the cutters
Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote in news:m_xlb.2709$1K1.1651
@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com:
> On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead.
Lie-Nielsen #66 hand beader. It's made for just that task.
Or, like Tom suggests, make a scratch stock.
You'll be surprised how fast & easy it is to cut a bead by hand.
I did a mess of them for some T & G panels for the back of a
cabinet a while back, and only spent about 15 minutes on it.
John
On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:10:58 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. The closest I can come
>is to use the TS to cut 2 ea. 1/8" dados and then relieve the edges
>CAREFULLY with a round nose bit. Then some sanding... It's very
>difficult to get the traditional rounded profile of the bead. I looked
>into getting a molding bit for my Sears molding cutter, but the bead bit
>makes 3 beads. This isn't something I need to do often, so I don't want
>to invest in another brand of molding cutter, even if they have a single
>bead bit. Suggestions?
Dave:
Make a scratchstock.
Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:10:58 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead.
Buy a single bead router cutter
Buy an antique moulding plane
Buy a #66 and make a cutter. Old Stanleys are fairly common and can be
quite cheap, if they're not pristine or have lost cutters / fences.
They should have two fences; one straight, one curved, and it's worth
having both. Cutters are consumables - L-N sell plain stock for
making more, if you can't find your own source.
Make a scratch stock. I think the Garrett Hack plane book has good
instructions. This works, but personally I prefer the #66 - it's
easier to keep the cutter aligned vertically.
To make a single bead cutter, start by drilling one or three round
holes, then cutting the edge back to expose them. It's easier than
trying to grind a semi-circle into the edge.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
Can't do that for this project. The bead centered on a 1 1/8" board.
Secret Squirrel wrote:
> "bs" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:UUylb.18058$%[email protected]:
>
>
>>Dave,
>>
>>Get the Sears cutter bead cutter set ($11) and grind down the outer
>>edges leaving a single bead. Be sure to take the edges off fairly
>>evenly so things aren't to far out of balance. I had a set that I
>>ground down after making beaded door panels for my SIL (remember that
>>thread?).
>>
>>I found it to be the most economical and efficient method for me - but
>>I was making 40+ panels too.
>>
>>Bob S.
>>
>>"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. The closest I can
>>>come is to use the TS to cut 2 ea. 1/8" dados and then relieve the
>>>edges CAREFULLY with a round nose bit. Then some sanding... It's very
>>>difficult to get the traditional rounded profile of the bead. I
>>>looked into getting a molding bit for my Sears molding cutter, but
>>>the bead bit makes 3 beads. This isn't something I need to do often,
>>>so I don't want to invest in another brand of molding cutter, even if
>>>they have a single bead bit. Suggestions?
>>>
>>>
>>>dave
>>>
>>
>>
>
> Even easier is to use the three bead profile and bury two of the three
> inside a sacrifical fence. Only allow the portion you need outside of the
> fence wih no need to modify the cutters
part number 3208 is what I got for one bead. works great!
dave
Scott Brownell wrote:
> bs wrote:
>
>>Dave,
>>
>>They do have a single bead cutters as shown on-line.
>>
>>Sears item #00923218000 ($10.99) Craftsman Beaded Ceiling Cutter
>>http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00923218000
>>
>>Sears item #00903208000 ($9.99) Craftsman 1/4in Bead Cutter Bit
>>http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00903208000
>>
>>Bob S.
>
>
>
> The 2nd one is the one I mentioned using in an earlier post. Either
> would work very well.
>
> Scott
Thanks for your ideas. Yesterday, in one store that had many more
Dremel bits than HD, I thought about getting one of those little
roundovers, but I don't want to use my Revolution instead of my router
table. By any chance, is there an 1/8 to 1/4 adapter to put into a 1/4
PC7518 collet?
dave
Swingman wrote:
> Scratch stock is the surest way to get it authentic.
>
> The quickest might be to use a steep 'V" bit in a router and route two
> shallow "v"'s , side by side, the correct distance apart, then round the
> intervening edges with sand paper or a scraper.
>
> I've also used a Dremel tool and one of Dremel's little bits to do the same
> thing on more than one occasion.
>
> A kludge, but It looks like a bead when you're done ... at least it
> satisfied SWMBO the last time I did it (.. route a bead that is.)
>
> Another method for a raised bead is some 1/8" stock with one edge rounded
> over, then sandwiched between two wider boards. Once the glue is dry, rip
> the piece to width.
>
that's a good idea, that crossed my mind last night at Sears. The
immediate problem is they didn't have any in stock. I think if I can
get Tom's idea implemented I'll give the scratch stock a try, otherwise
I'll order the Sears cutter. Thanks!
dave
bs wrote:
> Dave,
>
> Get the Sears cutter bead cutter set ($11) and grind down the outer edges
> leaving a single bead. Be sure to take the edges off fairly evenly so
> things aren't to far out of balance. I had a set that I ground down after
> making beaded door panels for my SIL (remember that thread?).
>
> I found it to be the most economical and efficient method for me - but I was
> making 40+ panels too.
>
> Bob S.
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>On the face of a 1 1/4" board I want ONE bead. The closest I can come
>>is to use the TS to cut 2 ea. 1/8" dados and then relieve the edges
>>CAREFULLY with a round nose bit. Then some sanding... It's very
>>difficult to get the traditional rounded profile of the bead. I looked
>>into getting a molding bit for my Sears molding cutter, but the bead bit
>>makes 3 beads. This isn't something I need to do often, so I don't want
>>to invest in another brand of molding cutter, even if they have a single
>>bead bit. Suggestions?
>>
>>
>>dave
>>
>
>
>