Lr

"Leon"

21/04/2004 4:00 PM

Cheap and Effective Splitter

A couple of months ago a post was started asking about cheaper alternatives
to the Beisemeyer splitter. I was fortunate enough to have seen the post
suggesting the Micro Jig Splitter. This is a splitter made by the same
people that make the adjustable Micro Jig push block. I visited the site
and was happy to see the splitter being offered for $14.99. I ordered the
splitter and have been using it for 6 or so weeks. The splitter works as
advertised as I have had NO burn marks on any Poplar that I have been
ripping. Basically you get 2 splitters and an installation jig. Once your
holes are drilled in your zero clearance insert, installation and removal of
the splitter takes about 2 seconds. While $14.99 seems expensive for what
you get in the package, but it is CHEAP when compared to he $100.00 + Beis
Splitter.

Take a look here

http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.asp?family_id=5067&refcode=04IN04RL


This topic has 12 replies

DB

Dave Balderstone

in reply to "Leon" on 21/04/2004 4:00 PM

21/04/2004 6:52 PM

In article <[email protected]>, Leon
<[email protected]> wrote:

> Ummm don't drill the hole all the way through...

Naw, too easy.

--
Was that last sig line lame or what?

Wb

WCD

in reply to "Leon" on 21/04/2004 4:00 PM

21/04/2004 2:51 PM

Upscale wrote:
> "WCD" <bdelph@no_spam.krjda.com> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Find a steel drill bit which is exactly the same diameter as your saw
>>blade is thick. Locate it in line with your blade at the rear of the
>>throat plate and use it to drill a hole. Stick it upside down in the
>>aforementioned hole and . . .
>
>
> Ok, sounds reasonable, but what's to stop the drill bit from dropping down
> through the hole either due to it's own weight or with the added tablesaw
> vibration? With the addition of some type of support mechanism to stop that
> happening, it sounds like a viable option.


Hmmm . . .

Well, when I did it, the hole was tight enough for a snug fit and didn't
need anything else. At one point I hit the "splitter" wrong and broke
off the bit and it still didn't fall into the hole. A dab of glue would
hold it in though if needed, I think.

You could also drill the hole using a drill bit one size smaller so its
a really snug fit.

I actually own a Biesmeyer splitter but never got around to calibrating
it and now I just use the drill bit.




BA

Bay Area Dave

in reply to "Leon" on 21/04/2004 4:00 PM

21/04/2004 4:12 PM

maybe you are paying just $2.00 for the materials, and $13
for the instructions (read: plans). NOW does it seem like a
good deal? :)

dave

Toller wrote:

> Thanks, I need a splitter rather badly. $15 isn't cheap, except when you
> consider the time spend making something that doesn't work as well.
>
>

Uu

"Upscale"

in reply to "Leon" on 21/04/2004 4:00 PM

21/04/2004 6:07 PM

"WCD" <bdelph@no_spam.krjda.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Find a steel drill bit which is exactly the same diameter as your saw
> blade is thick. Locate it in line with your blade at the rear of the
> throat plate and use it to drill a hole. Stick it upside down in the
> aforementioned hole and . . .

Ok, sounds reasonable, but what's to stop the drill bit from dropping down
through the hole either due to it's own weight or with the added tablesaw
vibration? With the addition of some type of support mechanism to stop that
happening, it sounds like a viable option.

Tt

"Toller"

in reply to "Leon" on 21/04/2004 4:00 PM

21/04/2004 4:04 PM

Thanks, I need a splitter rather badly. $15 isn't cheap, except when you
consider the time spend making something that doesn't work as well.

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to "Leon" on 21/04/2004 4:00 PM

21/04/2004 4:21 PM


"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> maybe you are paying just $2.00 for the materials, and $13
> for the instructions (read: plans). NOW does it seem like a
> good deal? :)
>



Yes even with $2 for materials and $13 for instructions it is much cheaper
than the Beismeyer that essentially charges $3 for materials and $100+ for
plans.

pp

patriarch

in reply to "Leon" on 21/04/2004 4:00 PM

21/04/2004 5:38 PM

"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> maybe you are paying just $2.00 for the materials, and $13
>> for the instructions (read: plans). NOW does it seem like a
>> good deal? :)
>>
>
>
>
> Yes even with $2 for materials and $13 for instructions it is much
> cheaper than the Beismeyer that essentially charges $3 for materials
> and $100+ for plans.
>
>

Well, maybe $3 for materials, $12 for plans, $50 for dealer markup and
marketing channel costs, and the balance for product liability
reserves...:-{

The $28 I spent on the Delta Removeable Splitter, as a service part, with
antikickback pawls, still seems like a good deal.

Most importantly, though, I use it. Almost any of these designs is
adequate, unless they are shoved in a box on a dusty shelf.

Patriarch

dR

[email protected] (Rossmoor Don)

in reply to "Leon" on 21/04/2004 4:00 PM

21/04/2004 4:19 PM

Here's one that's only $7.95 and comes with pins for both regular kerf
and narrow kerf blades.

http://www.grip-tite.com/splitter.html

I just installed it last weekend and love it. Took all of 1/2 hour to
install.

aA

in reply to "Leon" on 21/04/2004 4:00 PM

21/04/2004 10:03 PM

I also bought the splitter and was able to install in about 1.5 hours.
I do love the little bugger and as soon as I get rid of a few more
habits, perhaps I can too cut without burns.

Alan

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to "Leon" on 21/04/2004 4:00 PM

21/04/2004 6:34 PM


"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "WCD" <bdelph@no_spam.krjda.com> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Find a steel drill bit which is exactly the same diameter as your saw
> > blade is thick. Locate it in line with your blade at the rear of the
> > throat plate and use it to drill a hole. Stick it upside down in the
> > aforementioned hole and . . .
>
> Ok, sounds reasonable, but what's to stop the drill bit from dropping down
> through the hole either due to it's own weight or with the added tablesaw
> vibration? With the addition of some type of support mechanism to stop
that
> happening, it sounds like a viable option.
>
Ummm don't drill the hole all the way through...

Wb

WCD

in reply to "Leon" on 21/04/2004 4:00 PM

21/04/2004 12:38 PM

Another woodworker turned me on to this . . .
(I can't take credit for it)


Find a steel drill bit which is exactly the same diameter as your saw
blade is thick. Locate it in line with your blade at the rear of the
throat plate and use it to drill a hole. Stick it upside down in the
aforementioned hole and . . .

VIOLA!!


Sheer perfection!!

BH

"Bernie Hunt"

in reply to "Leon" on 21/04/2004 4:00 PM

21/04/2004 9:33 PM

Leon,

I have the same setup and think it's great and also a whole lot cheaper than
the alternative. I also love their Gripper push blocks.
http://www.microjig.com/GRR-Ripper.htm

More info on the splitter here; http://www.microjig.com/MJ%20Splitter.htm
Bernie


"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A couple of months ago a post was started asking about cheaper
alternatives
> to the Beisemeyer splitter. I was fortunate enough to have seen the post
> suggesting the Micro Jig Splitter. This is a splitter made by the same
> people that make the adjustable Micro Jig push block. I visited the site
> and was happy to see the splitter being offered for $14.99. I ordered the
> splitter and have been using it for 6 or so weeks. The splitter works as
> advertised as I have had NO burn marks on any Poplar that I have been
> ripping. Basically you get 2 splitters and an installation jig. Once
your
> holes are drilled in your zero clearance insert, installation and removal
of
> the splitter takes about 2 seconds. While $14.99 seems expensive for what
> you get in the package, but it is CHEAP when compared to he $100.00 + Beis
> Splitter.
>
> Take a look here
>
>
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.asp?family_id=5067&refcode=04IN04RL
>
>


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