Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
the group, but need to ask a question now.
I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
pushing down too hard or what?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Dave in Northern Colorado
Where in Northern CO? I'm in Loveland
Dave wrote:
>
> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>
> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>
> I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
> still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
> pushing down too hard or what?
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>
> Dave in Northern Colorado
I would only use that type of push stick for a TS. Once there is enough of
the board on the outfeed table that is where you provided the locomotion. JG
Toller wrote:
> > The
> > little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> > work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
> >
> Like someone said, you don't have to push down; you have to push across.
> You should have push blocks that grab the back end of the piece.
> http://shopping.capelinks.com/amazon/asinsearch_B0000223V6.html
>
> I am not recommending this particular pushblock or the company; I just
> wanted an illustration of what you should be using.
Dave wrote:
> Tom,
>
> I followed the destructions that came with the jointer for aligning
> the tables, and on shorter pieces it seems to work ok. The problems I
> am having is when I try to face an 8 or 9 foot piece of red oak. From
> some of the other posts, I think I have "seen the light"
Does the project you have planned require 8' to 9' long stock? I cut the stock
to slightly longer than required before surfacing. It makes things much easier.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Bob,
Write some woodworking books please -
Respectfully,
jbd
"Bob S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dave,
>
> All the posts I've read so far offered some excellent suggestions - now
all
> you need to do is practice. 1/32nd of an inch may be a to an aggressive
cut
> for you right now since you haven't learned the technique just yet. I
have
> my jointer set to take off .015 (15 thou / ~1/64th") is all and I leave it
> there. I've milled a lot of rough sawn hardwood at that setting and
> although I have to take some extra swipes to get any cupping out, it works
> for me and I reduce tearout.
>
> Get a 8', 2x4 from the borg and cut 2ea 2' sections leaving a 4' section
to
> practice on. Try to find one that doesn't have big knots which may nick
your
> knives but one that has some cupping, bowing, twisting will help you
master
> the technique.
>
> Once you have the 2x4 cut up, look at the grain direction. You want the
> cathedrals on the grain pointing away from the knives (see below). Place
> the test board (2' section) with the grain as shown and any cupping with
the
> concave side facing down. Any twist or bow will slowly be worked out as
you
> joint the board flat. I can't explain every situation but as you do the
> following basic steps it will become intuitive on what you need to do to
> make one side of a board flat and one edge perpendicular to that.
>
> Using the push blocks to hold the wood down flat to the infeed table and
you
> standing to the side (left foot forward of the right foot) and using only
> the slightest amount of downward pressure on the push blocks while they're
> on the infeed side, push the board forward slowly but evenly into the
> knives. As the first push block goes over the knives - DO NOT - exert any
> more downward pressure. Only after the pushblock has gone past the knives
> do you apply moderately more pressure.
>
> With the one push block now past the blades - push down on that block
> (moderately) to keep that end of the board flat against the outfeed table.
> Now move the right hand block up and place it just behind the left hand
> block (all this happens in one fluid motion - keeping pressure on the
> outfeed side as well as keeping the board moving). It's now hand over
hand,
> keeping one push block always on the board just past the knives on the
> outfeed side.
>
> Keep the moderate pressure steady and the forward movement consistent.
Mark
> some long pencil marks on the length of the board near the edges to use as
a
> reference. After making a few passes, you will see where the pencil marks
> remain indicating the low spots on the board.
>
> To joint one edge - turn the board so the flat side is up against the
fence
> and joint as above. The technique is the same for a longer piece so use
the
> 4' section to practice on after you're comfortable with the 2' sections.
> Get a rhythm going, stand comfortably and relax and you'll soon find that
> it's harder to describe how to do it than actually doing it.
>
> There are more tips and tricks to learn on how to make the best of a lousy
> board but ask for those once you get the basics down.
>
> 1. No you cannot make the sides or edges of a board parallel to their mate
> on a jointer - unless you're real good!
> 2. The board will begin to get a taper on it and it's the reason behind #1
> above.
> 3. If you have a hard time figuring out which way the grain is primarily
> running on a board from the visual clues - think of petting a cat or dog.
> Run your hand in one direction along the board, if it feels rough - you're
> going against the grain, smoother is with the grain. You do not want the
> knives cutting into the rough direction. See below
>
> Grain cathedrals on board >>>>, Direction you push the board <-------
>
>
> ( board laying on jointer)
> |---------------------------------------------------|
> |>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>| Grain
> |---------------------------------------------------|
> <------- you push right to left
>
> If the grain is reversed above, the knives will lift the grain, causing
> tearout.
>
> If none of this makes any sense.... dial 1-800-God-Help
>
> Bob S.
>
>
> "Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
> > the group, but need to ask a question now.
> >
> > I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
> > the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
> > on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
> > little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> > work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
> >
> > I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
> > still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
> > pushing down too hard or what?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> >
> > Dave in Northern Colorado
> >
>
>
Bob -
Write some books please.
Respectfully,
-jbd
"Bob S." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dave,
>
> All the posts I've read so far offered some excellent suggestions - now
all
> you need to do is practice. 1/32nd of an inch may be a to an aggressive
cut
> for you right now since you haven't learned the technique just yet. I
have
> my jointer set to take off .015 (15 thou / ~1/64th") is all and I leave it
> there. I've milled a lot of rough sawn hardwood at that setting and
> although I have to take some extra swipes to get any cupping out, it works
> for me and I reduce tearout.
>
> Get a 8', 2x4 from the borg and cut 2ea 2' sections leaving a 4' section
to
> practice on. Try to find one that doesn't have big knots which may nick
your
> knives but one that has some cupping, bowing, twisting will help you
master
> the technique.
>
> Once you have the 2x4 cut up, look at the grain direction. You want the
> cathedrals on the grain pointing away from the knives (see below). Place
> the test board (2' section) with the grain as shown and any cupping with
the
> concave side facing down. Any twist or bow will slowly be worked out as
you
> joint the board flat. I can't explain every situation but as you do the
> following basic steps it will become intuitive on what you need to do to
> make one side of a board flat and one edge perpendicular to that.
>
> Using the push blocks to hold the wood down flat to the infeed table and
you
> standing to the side (left foot forward of the right foot) and using only
> the slightest amount of downward pressure on the push blocks while they're
> on the infeed side, push the board forward slowly but evenly into the
> knives. As the first push block goes over the knives - DO NOT - exert any
> more downward pressure. Only after the pushblock has gone past the knives
> do you apply moderately more pressure.
>
> With the one push block now past the blades - push down on that block
> (moderately) to keep that end of the board flat against the outfeed table.
> Now move the right hand block up and place it just behind the left hand
> block (all this happens in one fluid motion - keeping pressure on the
> outfeed side as well as keeping the board moving). It's now hand over
hand,
> keeping one push block always on the board just past the knives on the
> outfeed side.
>
> Keep the moderate pressure steady and the forward movement consistent.
Mark
> some long pencil marks on the length of the board near the edges to use as
a
> reference. After making a few passes, you will see where the pencil marks
> remain indicating the low spots on the board.
>
> To joint one edge - turn the board so the flat side is up against the
fence
> and joint as above. The technique is the same for a longer piece so use
the
> 4' section to practice on after you're comfortable with the 2' sections.
> Get a rhythm going, stand comfortably and relax and you'll soon find that
> it's harder to describe how to do it than actually doing it.
>
> There are more tips and tricks to learn on how to make the best of a lousy
> board but ask for those once you get the basics down.
>
> 1. No you cannot make the sides or edges of a board parallel to their mate
> on a jointer - unless you're real good!
> 2. The board will begin to get a taper on it and it's the reason behind #1
> above.
> 3. If you have a hard time figuring out which way the grain is primarily
> running on a board from the visual clues - think of petting a cat or dog.
> Run your hand in one direction along the board, if it feels rough - you're
> going against the grain, smoother is with the grain. You do not want the
> knives cutting into the rough direction. See below
>
> Grain cathedrals on board >>>>, Direction you push the board <-------
>
>
> ( board laying on jointer)
> |---------------------------------------------------|
> |>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>| Grain
> |---------------------------------------------------|
> <------- you push right to left
>
> If the grain is reversed above, the knives will lift the grain, causing
> tearout.
>
> If none of this makes any sense.... dial 1-800-God-Help
>
> Bob S.
>
>
> "Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
> > the group, but need to ask a question now.
> >
> > I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
> > the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
> > on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
> > little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> > work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
> >
> > I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
> > still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
> > pushing down too hard or what?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> >
> > Dave in Northern Colorado
> >
>
>
Dave <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
...
> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
...
Hi Dave,
I'm probably right down the road from you. Be glad to spend a couple
of minutes with you if it would help. I use a Sunhill jointer, but
all the 6" jointers are pretty similar.
As other posters noted, don't push down too hard on the infeed side.
You're just trying to whack off the high spots on each pass through
the jointer. It really doesn't take too much downward pressure at
all. If you have a bowed board, do it concave side down. If you have
a twisted board, be careful not to rock it as you are doing the pass.
Cheers,
Nate Perkins
Fort Collins, CO
Dave <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On 13 Jan 2004 06:06:57 -0800, [email protected] (Nate Perkins)
> wrote:
>
>...
> >
> >Hi Dave,
> >
> >I'm probably right down the road from you. Be glad to spend a couple
> >of minutes with you if it would help. I use a Sunhill jointer, but
> >all the 6" jointers are pretty similar.
> >
...
> Hi Nate,
>
> I am in Greeley. Whereabouts in Fort Collins? About the only place I
> go to over there is the Sears Trostle store over by old towne. Are
> there any other places around to find good wood?
>
> How are you liking our January weather?
Hi Dave,
I'm in southeast Ft Collins, behind the new hospital. Give me a call
if you want to come by and test out jointers (I'm in the book).
Yeah, January is sometimes a bit cold out in shop (which is located in
the third bay of my garage). I recently got a ceiling-mounted IR
heater that is a big help. Lately I'm just building small stuff
(boxes with marquetry and the like, and trying to get practiced at
hand-cut mitered dovetails). SWMBO is talking about getting me to
build a dining room buffet for her, though (wahoo!). I am ready to
make real piles of sawdust again.
Sears Trostel has a woodworking class that they have run the last
couple of months that covers techniques with several power tools,
including the jointer.
Cheers,
Nate Perkins
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>
Take off less - back off from 1/32nd to 1/64...
Don't push down hard, just slide across.
> Dave in Northern Colorado
>
Also in the general vicinity of N. Colorado...
Shouldn't need much if any downward push, especially on the infeed side.
Those cheap push-blocks are only meant to give you forward movement. You
can put a little more pressure on the outfeed table but don't over do that
either. If the tables are aligned properly (get the owner's manual out for
that one) and the knives are sharp (new machine so should be ok), then let
the machine do the work.
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>
> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>
> I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
> still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
> pushing down too hard or what?
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>
> Dave in Northern Colorado
>
Actually Dave you shouldn't be pushing down at all, at least not with any
more pressure then it takes to move the stock. Just let the stock slide
naturally over the blades. Pushing down hard causes a situation that defeats
the purpose of the jointer. You want a naturally flat face that doesn't have
cup, bow, etc reappearing when the pressure is taken off the stock.
Rough cut stock, if that is what you are using, will also move with fits and
starts that will smooth out as the face gets smoothed. And, of course, there
is waxing the jointer bed to eliminate friction.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>
> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>
> I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
> still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
> pushing down too hard or what?
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>
> Dave in Northern Colorado
>
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 03:30:25 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Dave wrote:
>> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
>> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>>
>> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
>> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
>> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
>> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
>> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>
>Have you waxed the tables? It makes quite a difference. The first time I
>waxed my table saw it was like I'd removed sandpaper from the table surface.
>
> -- Mark
>
>
Mark,
I did put a little beeswax on the table right after cleaning all the
gook off it. I am waiting for the weather to improve, and then I was
planning on cleaning it really well and applying a thin coat of
shellac. I had read Tom Watson's post on that and it sounded like a
very good way to prevent rust and provide a slickery surface.
Thanks for the info.
Dave
Bob,
Let 2nd or 3rd or 4th the suggestion that you write a book!
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 14:46:49 GMT, "Bob S." <[email protected]> wrote:
>Dave,
>
>All the posts I've read so far offered some excellent suggestions - now all
>you need to do is practice. 1/32nd of an inch may be a to an aggressive cut
>for you right now since you haven't learned the technique just yet. I have
>my jointer set to take off .015 (15 thou / ~1/64th") is all and I leave it
<snip>
I was curious about that. It seemed like 1/32nd was a pretty hefty
chunk. I will raise it up to 1/64th tonight.
<snip>
Got the part about the cupped side down ok, but what I was missing was
the standing to the side. I was at the back of the board pushing it
with one hand and holding down with the other! Only when I got within
a couple of inches of the blades did I move the right hand to the
outfeed side.
>Using the push blocks to hold the wood down flat to the infeed table and you
>standing to the side (left foot forward of the right foot) and using only
>the slightest amount of downward pressure on the push blocks while they're
>on the infeed side, push the board forward slowly but evenly into the
>knives. As the first push block goes over the knives - DO NOT - exert any
>more downward pressure. Only after the pushblock has gone past the knives
>do you apply moderately more pressure.
<snip>
The edge jointing I was getting good results on. It seemed natural to
stand almost dead center on the jointer and move the board past the
knives with a hand to hand motion.
<snip>
Dog hates it when I pet him backwards!
>3. If you have a hard time figuring out which way the grain is primarily
>running on a board from the visual clues - think of petting a cat or dog.
>Run your hand in one direction along the board, if it feels rough - you're
>going against the grain, smoother is with the grain. You do not want the
>knives cutting into the rough direction. See below
>
<Snip>
With resources like you on this group, who needs an 800 number!?
Thanks for the excellent info!
Dave
>
>Bob S.
>
>
>"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
>> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>>
>> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
>> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
>> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
>> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
>> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>>
>> I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
>> still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
>> pushing down too hard or what?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>
>> Dave in Northern Colorado
>>
>
On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 20:30:25 -0800, "RWM" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
>> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>>
>> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
>> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
>> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
>> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
>> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>>
>> I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
>> still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
>> pushing down too hard or what?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>
>> Dave in Northern Colorado
>
>I would make sure that you have really cleaned up the bed & fence first. If
>you have not already done it use a solvent like WD 40 or mineral spirits to
>really clean all cast surfaces. After everything is clean put a few coats
>of wax on.
>
>If you have already done the above then I would check to make sure that the
>depth of cut is really 1/32". The other thing to check is that your knives
>are all set at the same height. A lose belt can also effect the cut. I
>have a tape that does a great job of showing how to tune-up a jointer. I
>would gladly loan it to you if you like.
>
>Bob McBreen - Yarrow Point, WA
>
Bob,
One of the first things I did was get out the WD40 and get all the
gook off. After having done it, I was worried that maybe I should
have used something different, like some kind of orange oil cleanser
or something. Glad to hear the WD40 is an approved cleaner. <g>
Some of the other responses have led me to what I believe is my
problem, namely poor form in feeding the stock.
Thanks for the info, and the offer of the tape. Unfortunately, since
we got the new dvd player, I can't remember how to hook up the VCR!
Need to get one of my kids over to show me how again!
Dave
On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 03:01:12 GMT, Nova <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Dave wrote:
>
>> Tom,
>>
>> I followed the destructions that came with the jointer for aligning
>> the tables, and on shorter pieces it seems to work ok. The problems I
>> am having is when I try to face an 8 or 9 foot piece of red oak. From
>> some of the other posts, I think I have "seen the light"
>
>Does the project you have planned require 8' to 9' long stock? I cut the stock
>to slightly longer than required before surfacing. It makes things much easier.
Jack,
The current project does not, but the next one will require some 6' to
7' lengths. I agree, when the stock is shorter, the jointing is much
easier.
On the brighter side, I have gotten some in/outfeed stands, and with
the input I have gotten from everyone, I think the next round will go
much better.
Thanks for the info.
Dave
Hi Clarke,
Just east of you a bit on 34. In Greeley.
Dave
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 00:28:59 -0700, Clarke Echols <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Where in Northern CO? I'm in Loveland
>
>Dave wrote:
>>
>> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
>> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>>
>> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
>> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
>> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
>> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
>> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>>
>> I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
>> still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
>> pushing down too hard or what?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>
>> Dave in Northern Colorado
Tom,
I followed the destructions that came with the jointer for aligning
the tables, and on shorter pieces it seems to work ok. The problems I
am having is when I try to face an 8 or 9 foot piece of red oak. From
some of the other posts, I think I have "seen the light"
Thanks for the info!
Dave
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 03:39:15 GMT, "Tom Kohlman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Shouldn't need much if any downward push, especially on the infeed side.
>Those cheap push-blocks are only meant to give you forward movement. You
>can put a little more pressure on the outfeed table but don't over do that
>either. If the tables are aligned properly (get the owner's manual out for
>that one) and the knives are sharp (new machine so should be ok), then let
>the machine do the work.
>
>"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
>> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>>
>> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
>> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
>> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
>> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
>> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>>
>> I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
>> still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
>> pushing down too hard or what?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>
>> Dave in Northern Colorado
>>
>
I made the mistake of pushing down into the blade when I got my jointer.
Made a lot of scrap that way. I have a standard set of pushblocks myself.
Feed the stock into the blade with light pressure from the infeed side and
firmer pressure from the outfeed side, making sure not to put pressure on
the stock directly over the turning blades. you are sure to have uneven
pressure at some point of the stock when over the blade causing an uneven
cutting pattern. Make sure that you are keeping the stock directly against
the fence. Also, make sure that the outfeed table is at the exact height of
the cutting blade at the apex. Make sure to balance both blades so that
they rest exactly level to the outfeed table. This makes a huge difference.
Hope this helps.
John V ( Still very much a newbie)
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>
> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>
> I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
> still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
> pushing down too hard or what?
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>
> Dave in Northern Colorado
>
> The
> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>
Like someone said, you don't have to push down; you have to push across.
You should have push blocks that grab the back end of the piece.
http://shopping.capelinks.com/amazon/asinsearch_B0000223V6.html
I am not recommending this particular pushblock or the company; I just
wanted an illustration of what you should be using.
Dave wrote:
> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>
> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
Have you waxed the tables? It makes quite a difference. The first time I
waxed my table saw it was like I'd removed sandpaper from the table surface.
-- Mark
John,
I was doing exactly that, and like you say, it makes for a lot of
scrap! I was also standing way to the right of the outfeed table and
shoving the board into the blade.
Thanks for the tips!
Dave
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 08:07:43 GMT, "JohnV"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I made the mistake of pushing down into the blade when I got my jointer.
>Made a lot of scrap that way. I have a standard set of pushblocks myself.
>Feed the stock into the blade with light pressure from the infeed side and
>firmer pressure from the outfeed side, making sure not to put pressure on
>the stock directly over the turning blades. you are sure to have uneven
>pressure at some point of the stock when over the blade causing an uneven
>cutting pattern. Make sure that you are keeping the stock directly against
>the fence. Also, make sure that the outfeed table is at the exact height of
>the cutting blade at the apex. Make sure to balance both blades so that
>they rest exactly level to the outfeed table. This makes a huge difference.
>Hope this helps.
>
>John V ( Still very much a newbie)
>
>
>"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
>> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>>
>> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
>> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
>> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
>> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
>> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>>
>> I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
>> still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
>> pushing down too hard or what?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>>
>> Dave in Northern Colorado
>>
>
On 13 Jan 2004 06:06:57 -0800, [email protected] (Nate Perkins)
wrote:
>Dave <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>...
>> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
>> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
>> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
>> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
>> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>...
>
>Hi Dave,
>
>I'm probably right down the road from you. Be glad to spend a couple
>of minutes with you if it would help. I use a Sunhill jointer, but
>all the 6" jointers are pretty similar.
>
>As other posters noted, don't push down too hard on the infeed side.
>You're just trying to whack off the high spots on each pass through
>the jointer. It really doesn't take too much downward pressure at
>all. If you have a bowed board, do it concave side down. If you have
>a twisted board, be careful not to rock it as you are doing the pass.
>
>Cheers,
>Nate Perkins
>Fort Collins, CO
Hi Nate,
I am in Greeley. Whereabouts in Fort Collins? About the only place I
go to over there is the Sears Trostle store over by old towne. Are
there any other places around to find good wood?
How are you liking our January weather?
Dave
Mike,
I am using rough cut stock, and it was certainly "fitsing and
starting". To the extreme that I had waves in the surface that had
just gone across the knives. I think I undeerstand what I was doing
wrong now, and will have to go get some more stock so that I can try
out all the good advice gotten here.
Want to mention that I have gotten some excellent info from your posts
(along with a number of other folk) from just lurking. Having asked a
question, I am pleased to report that the quality of information is
still very high.
Thanks for the help (Past, current and future!)
Dave
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:37:30 -0500, "Mike G"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Actually Dave you shouldn't be pushing down at all, at least not with any
>more pressure then it takes to move the stock. Just let the stock slide
>naturally over the blades. Pushing down hard causes a situation that defeats
>the purpose of the jointer. You want a naturally flat face that doesn't have
>cup, bow, etc reappearing when the pressure is taken off the stock.
>
>Rough cut stock, if that is what you are using, will also move with fits and
>starts that will smooth out as the face gets smoothed. And, of course, there
>is waxing the jointer bed to eliminate friction.
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 22:18:56 GMT, "mttt" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
>> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>>
>
>Take off less - back off from 1/32nd to 1/64...
>Don't push down hard, just slide across.
>
>> Dave in Northern Colorado
>>
>
>Also in the general vicinity of N. Colorado...
>
Whereabouts? I am in Greely. (If you have a sensitive nose, don't
come this way!)
Dave
Dave,
All the posts I've read so far offered some excellent suggestions - now all
you need to do is practice. 1/32nd of an inch may be a to an aggressive cut
for you right now since you haven't learned the technique just yet. I have
my jointer set to take off .015 (15 thou / ~1/64th") is all and I leave it
there. I've milled a lot of rough sawn hardwood at that setting and
although I have to take some extra swipes to get any cupping out, it works
for me and I reduce tearout.
Get a 8', 2x4 from the borg and cut 2ea 2' sections leaving a 4' section to
practice on. Try to find one that doesn't have big knots which may nick your
knives but one that has some cupping, bowing, twisting will help you master
the technique.
Once you have the 2x4 cut up, look at the grain direction. You want the
cathedrals on the grain pointing away from the knives (see below). Place
the test board (2' section) with the grain as shown and any cupping with the
concave side facing down. Any twist or bow will slowly be worked out as you
joint the board flat. I can't explain every situation but as you do the
following basic steps it will become intuitive on what you need to do to
make one side of a board flat and one edge perpendicular to that.
Using the push blocks to hold the wood down flat to the infeed table and you
standing to the side (left foot forward of the right foot) and using only
the slightest amount of downward pressure on the push blocks while they're
on the infeed side, push the board forward slowly but evenly into the
knives. As the first push block goes over the knives - DO NOT - exert any
more downward pressure. Only after the pushblock has gone past the knives
do you apply moderately more pressure.
With the one push block now past the blades - push down on that block
(moderately) to keep that end of the board flat against the outfeed table.
Now move the right hand block up and place it just behind the left hand
block (all this happens in one fluid motion - keeping pressure on the
outfeed side as well as keeping the board moving). It's now hand over hand,
keeping one push block always on the board just past the knives on the
outfeed side.
Keep the moderate pressure steady and the forward movement consistent. Mark
some long pencil marks on the length of the board near the edges to use as a
reference. After making a few passes, you will see where the pencil marks
remain indicating the low spots on the board.
To joint one edge - turn the board so the flat side is up against the fence
and joint as above. The technique is the same for a longer piece so use the
4' section to practice on after you're comfortable with the 2' sections.
Get a rhythm going, stand comfortably and relax and you'll soon find that
it's harder to describe how to do it than actually doing it.
There are more tips and tricks to learn on how to make the best of a lousy
board but ask for those once you get the basics down.
1. No you cannot make the sides or edges of a board parallel to their mate
on a jointer - unless you're real good!
2. The board will begin to get a taper on it and it's the reason behind #1
above.
3. If you have a hard time figuring out which way the grain is primarily
running on a board from the visual clues - think of petting a cat or dog.
Run your hand in one direction along the board, if it feels rough - you're
going against the grain, smoother is with the grain. You do not want the
knives cutting into the rough direction. See below
Grain cathedrals on board >>>>, Direction you push the board <-------
( board laying on jointer)
|---------------------------------------------------|
|>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>| Grain
|---------------------------------------------------|
<------- you push right to left
If the grain is reversed above, the knives will lift the grain, causing
tearout.
If none of this makes any sense.... dial 1-800-God-Help
Bob S.
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>
> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>
> I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
> still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
> pushing down too hard or what?
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>
> Dave in Northern Colorado
>
JGS,
I have one of those push sticks and thought about using it, but on an
8 to 9 foot piece, my arms aren't long enough!
Thanks,
Dave
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 05:14:12 -0500, JGS <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I would only use that type of push stick for a TS. Once there is enough of
>the board on the outfeed table that is where you provided the locomotion. JG
>
>Toller wrote:
>
>> > The
>> > little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
>> > work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>> >
>> Like someone said, you don't have to push down; you have to push across.
>> You should have push blocks that grab the back end of the piece.
>> http://shopping.capelinks.com/amazon/asinsearch_B0000223V6.html
>>
>> I am not recommending this particular pushblock or the company; I just
>> wanted an illustration of what you should be using.
Good luck Dave
Keeping the thing tuned and sharp knives are important (wait until you have
to replace the latter...OUCH!!!) LOL But I can say that I did a big project
over the summer on my Delta 6" where I "abused" it so the $50 for new knives
after two years of relatively regular moderate use was expected.
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Tom,
>
> I followed the destructions that came with the jointer for aligning
> the tables, and on shorter pieces it seems to work ok. The problems I
> am having is when I try to face an 8 or 9 foot piece of red oak. From
> some of the other posts, I think I have "seen the light"
>
> Thanks for the info!
>
> Dave
> On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 03:39:15 GMT, "Tom Kohlman"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Shouldn't need much if any downward push, especially on the infeed side.
> >Those cheap push-blocks are only meant to give you forward movement. You
> >can put a little more pressure on the outfeed table but don't over do
that
> >either. If the tables are aligned properly (get the owner's manual out
for
> >that one) and the knives are sharp (new machine so should be ok), then
let
> >the machine do the work.
> >
> >"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
> >> the group, but need to ask a question now.
> >>
> >> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
> >> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
> >> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
> >> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> >> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
> >>
> >> I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
> >> still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
> >> pushing down too hard or what?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> >>
> >> Dave in Northern Colorado
> >>
> >
>
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Been lurking for a while. I have gotten lots of good information from
> the group, but need to ask a question now.
>
> I got a Grizzly G0500 jointer a couple of months ago and finally got
> the gar^H^H^Hshop wired for 220V so I could use it. Jointing a face
> on 4/4 8"wide red oak has not gone as well as I would have hoped. The
> little yellow push blocks that came with the jointer don't seem to
> work very well, or I am doing something wrong.
>
> I have the infeed table set 1/32nd lower than the outfeed, but am
> still having problems feeding the stock thru without hesitation. Am I
> pushing down too hard or what?
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>
> Dave in Northern Colorado
I would make sure that you have really cleaned up the bed & fence first. If
you have not already done it use a solvent like WD 40 or mineral spirits to
really clean all cast surfaces. After everything is clean put a few coats
of wax on.
If you have already done the above then I would check to make sure that the
depth of cut is really 1/32". The other thing to check is that your knives
are all set at the same height. A lose belt can also effect the cut. I
have a tape that does a great job of showing how to tune-up a jointer. I
would gladly loan it to you if you like.
Bob McBreen - Yarrow Point, WA