This may be a dumb question, but here goes. I have a piece of alum. .125"
thick that I was using as a splitter on my TS. I bought a Frued thin kerf
blade and need a thinner splitter, so I need to mill about .025" off the
splitter and was thinking I could do it with an end mill with a 1/2" shank
in my router and holding the splitter to the work bench with double sided
tape. Does this sound safe enough to do? Thanks.
--
Paul O.
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>, Paul O.
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Does this sound safe enough to do? Thanks.
Perfectly safe, after you write me into your will...
--
Okay, so this is my new sig line, eh?
"Paul O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Does this sound safe enough to do? Thanks.
>
> --
Post a video when you try it to ABPW!!
I would not try it!
Greg
"Greg Millen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Paul,
>
> forget it, use a file. Yesterday I made a few hundred cuts (using a 100
> tooth aluminium cutting blade) and have a few more left to do. After I am
> finished cutting I will be cleaning the shop for the rest of the day,
> aluminium is everywhere, it looks surreal in there, like in a movie or
> something.
>
> Anyway, use a file. Cutting aluminium is best done with a lubricant
anyway,
> and with a router spinning at 6000 rpm minimum there's going to be a huge
> mess.
>
> --
>
I don't have a problem routing aluminum, just with the operation he wants to
do!
I have used carbide router bits, and slow speed to route aluminum. Just the
other day I used a 1/8" round over bit on some 1/4" aluminum plate. Used my
PC 7539 on slow speed, 10,000 RPM with no problems. Chips are hot and fly
all over! Safety glasses are definately required!
Greg
"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Greg Millen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Paul,
> >
<snip>
> > Anyway, use a file. Cutting aluminium is best done with a lubricant
> anyway,
> > and with a router spinning at 6000 rpm minimum there's going to be a
huge
> > mess.
> >
> > --
> >
>
> I don't have a problem routing aluminum, just with the operation he wants
to
> do!
> I have used carbide router bits, and slow speed to route aluminum. Just
the
> other day I used a 1/8" round over bit on some 1/4" aluminum plate. Used
my
> PC 7539 on slow speed, 10,000 RPM with no problems. Chips are hot and fly
> all over! Safety glasses are definately required!
> Greg
>
FYI the recommended cutting speed for a 1/2" 2 flute end mill is 3000RPM,
that is at a feed of 3"/min with a max depth of cut of 1/4". The problem
with what the OP is sugesting is the method of holding the work.
Routing Aluminum itself isn't a problem, I did my own table insert out of
1/4" plate using a circle cutting attachment 1/4" bit and wd40 as a
lubricant. Pat Warner (patwarner.com) has several references to routing
Aluminum, his site is apparantly down at the moment.
I agree with Greg, I cut al on my tablesaw, up to 2" thick, lubricate with
wd40 and wear a full face shield because those chips are hot.
Bernard R
"xrongor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:A03ec.8415$wP1.27193@attbi_s54...
>
<snip>
> cutting aluminum on a table saw is one thing. shaving .025 off is
something
> else entirely.
>
> randy
>
>
I am talking personal experience but seeing as people like to see things in
print I suggest DAGS 'aluminum routing' there are about 65,000 replies.
The problems that the OP had were probalbly using too large a bit and the
method of holding down the work. If for example he had a way of screwing
down the work with counter sunk screws and limited the bit to say 3/8" he
wouldn't have had any problems. A 0.025" cut would be the proverbial knife
through butter.
This reference http://astro.umsystem.edu/atm/ARCHIVES/APR00/msg00747.html
gives the data for calculating speeds and feeds as well as other useful
information, it also discusses using standard woodworking bits.
Bernard R
"xrongor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:A03ec.8415$wP1.27193@attbi_s54...
>
> >
> cutting aluminum on a table saw is one thing. shaving .025 off is
something
> else entirely.
>
> randy
>
>
Agreed, that is why I would not do what he want to try.
Routing aluminum is possible, what he wants to do is suicide!
Greg
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't know where you got your feed and speed info from but it is way
low.
> Average book speed (generally low. a safe starting point) is 600 sfm. This
> comes out to 4583 RPM with a 1/2" HSS 2 flute endmill. At that RPM,
minimum
> feed would be 9" per minute. I typically run them at 6000 RPM at 30 to 35"
> per minute feed.
> While there are circumstances that double sided tape can be used as a hold
> down in a milling operation, this isn't one of them.
>
<snip>
Thanks CW, I was being lazy and used the Rockford quick calculator (got to
delete that thing). I agree about the method of hold down, just seemed
that the general tone of the thread was that routing Al was in the same
category as sticking your hand in acid.
Bernard R
In article <Wf5ec.114866$w54.827994@attbi_s01>, [email protected]
says...
> > > cutting aluminum on a table saw is one thing. shaving .025 off is
> > something
> > > else entirely.
>
>
Not a problem. . .With it screwed securely to a piece of stock, I can
get all the accuracy I need for a splitter.
Kim
"xrongor" wrote in message ...
> accuracy has nothing to do with it. using a table saw for this is like
> using a table saw to slice bread. it may be possible, but why?
Randy, you may wish to re-read the thread. I don't recall anyone said to use
a TS. When a thread gets long enough, Chinese whispers kick in.
cheers,
Greg
"Bernard Randall" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Greg Millen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Paul,
> > >
> <snip>
> > > Anyway, use a file. Cutting aluminium is best done with a lubricant
> > anyway,
> > > and with a router spinning at 6000 rpm minimum there's going to be a
> huge
> > > mess.
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> >
> > I don't have a problem routing aluminum, just with the operation he
wants
> to
> > do!
> > I have used carbide router bits, and slow speed to route aluminum. Just
> the
> > other day I used a 1/8" round over bit on some 1/4" aluminum plate. Used
> my
> > PC 7539 on slow speed, 10,000 RPM with no problems. Chips are hot and
fly
> > all over! Safety glasses are definately required!
> > Greg
> >
>
> FYI the recommended cutting speed for a 1/2" 2 flute end mill is 3000RPM,
> that is at a feed of 3"/min with a max depth of cut of 1/4". The problem
> with what the OP is sugesting is the method of holding the work.
>
> Routing Aluminum itself isn't a problem, I did my own table insert out of
> 1/4" plate using a circle cutting attachment 1/4" bit and wd40 as a
> lubricant. Pat Warner (patwarner.com) has several references to routing
> Aluminum, his site is apparantly down at the moment.
>
> I agree with Greg, I cut al on my tablesaw, up to 2" thick, lubricate with
> wd40 and wear a full face shield because those chips are hot.
>
> Bernard R
cutting aluminum on a table saw is one thing. shaving .025 off is something
else entirely.
randy
sounds like a recipe for disaster to me.. if you must, just use sandpaper
and sand it.
randy
"Paul O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This may be a dumb question, but here goes. I have a piece of alum. .125"
> thick that I was using as a splitter on my TS. I bought a Frued thin kerf
> blade and need a thinner splitter, so I need to mill about .025" off the
> splitter and was thinking I could do it with an end mill with a 1/2" shank
> in my router and holding the splitter to the work bench with double sided
> tape. Does this sound safe enough to do? Thanks.
>
> --
> Paul O.
> [email protected]
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> I bought a Frued thin kerf
> blade and need a thinner splitter, so I need to mill about .025" off the
> splitter and was thinking I could do it with an end mill with a 1/2" shank
> in my router and holding the splitter to the work bench with double sided
> tape.
>
Risky! What I've done using a piece of 1 1/2" aluminum angle is to cut
off a piece as long as the splitter will be, screw it firmly to the edge
of a flat 2"x4" (the leg that will be the splitter is vertical, the
other leg is horizontal and has the screw through it), hold this
assembly against the miter gauge (clamping would be a good idea), and
push it past the blade. Trims it nicely.
Kim
if it was something i had to do, i'd find some thinner material and
trace and make a new splitter. then you would have both.
Paul O. wrote:
> This may be a dumb question, but here goes. I have a piece of alum. .125"
> thick that I was using as a splitter on my TS. I bought a Frued thin kerf
> blade and need a thinner splitter, so I need to mill about .025" off the
> splitter and was thinking I could do it with an end mill with a 1/2" shank
> in my router and holding the splitter to the work bench with double sided
> tape. Does this sound safe enough to do? Thanks.
>
"Kim Whitmyre" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <Wf5ec.114866$w54.827994@attbi_s01>, [email protected]
> says...
> > > > cutting aluminum on a table saw is one thing. shaving .025 off is
> > > something
> > > > else entirely.
> >
> >
> Not a problem. . .With it screwed securely to a piece of stock, I can
> get all the accuracy I need for a splitter.
>
> Kim
accuracy has nothing to do with it. using a table saw for this is like
using a table saw to slice bread. it may be possible, but why?
randy
I don't know where you got your feed and speed info from but it is way low.
Average book speed (generally low. a safe starting point) is 600 sfm. This
comes out to 4583 RPM with a 1/2" HSS 2 flute endmill. At that RPM, minimum
feed would be 9" per minute. I typically run them at 6000 RPM at 30 to 35"
per minute feed.
While there are circumstances that double sided tape can be used as a hold
down in a milling operation, this isn't one of them.
"Bernard Randall" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> FYI the recommended cutting speed for a 1/2" 2 flute end mill is
3000RPM,
> that is at a feed of 3"/min with a max depth of cut of 1/4". The problem
> with what the OP is sugesting is the method of holding the work.
>
> Routing Aluminum itself isn't a problem, I did my own table insert out of
> 1/4" plate using a circle cutting attachment 1/4" bit and wd40 as a
> lubricant. Pat Warner (patwarner.com) has several references to routing
> Aluminum, his site is apparantly down at the moment.
>
> I agree with Greg, I cut al on my tablesaw, up to 2" thick, lubricate with
> wd40 and wear a full face shield because those chips are hot.
>
> Bernard R
>
>
>
There are a lot of speed and feed calculators around and some of the worst I
have seen are on the internet. See a Kennametal dealer and get one of there
slide-card type calculators. They not only do feed and speed but depth of
cut and horsepower requirements for the process.
Routing aluminum works but the method the OP was thinking of was a recipe
for disaster. There is a major aircraft manufacturer that, up until
recently, made extensive use of router tables doing aluminum. These were
standard router tables, standard fixed speed routers and the parts were fed
by hand. Noisy and messy but it worked.
"Bernard Randall" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
> Thanks CW, I was being lazy and used the Rockford quick calculator (got to
> delete that thing). I agree about the method of hold down, just seemed
> that the general tone of the thread was that routing Al was in the same
> category as sticking your hand in acid.
>
> Bernard R
>
>
Here is a reply to a dumb question with another dumb answer . have you ever
heard of a thing called a file .....????? mjh
--
http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
"Paul O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This may be a dumb question, but here goes. I have a piece of alum. .125"
> thick that I was using as a splitter on my TS. I bought a Frued thin kerf
> blade and need a thinner splitter, so I need to mill about .025" off the
> splitter and was thinking I could do it with an end mill with a 1/2" shank
> in my router and holding the splitter to the work bench with double sided
> tape. Does this sound safe enough to do? Thanks.
>
> --
> Paul O.
> [email protected]
>
>
"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> xrongor wrote:
>
> > accuracy has nothing to do with it. using a table saw for this is
> > like using a table saw to slice bread. it may be possible, but why?
>
> I always use a bandsaw. Lathe is good for cinnamon rolls. <g>
>
> -- Mark
ya i think ill route me out some chocloate chip cookies!!
radny
Paul O. wrote:
> This may be a dumb question, but here goes. I have a piece of
> alum. .125" thick that I was using as a splitter on my TS. I
> bought a Frued thin kerf blade and need a thinner splitter, so
> I need to mill about .025" off the splitter and was thinking I
> could do it with an end mill with a 1/2" shank in my router
> and holding the splitter to the work bench with double sided
> tape. Does this sound safe enough to do? Thanks.
No. Don't do it! You'd give an entirely new meaning to the
expression "being PO'd". Double-sided tape isn't a secure
workholder. The metalworking guys can supply numbers and details;
but you would want lower RPMS, a bit designed specifically for
cutting aluminum, a secure workholder, and some kind of cooling
at the workpiece/tool interface.
The safe solution would probably be to take the old splitter to a
local machine shop and have 'em make you another 0.100" thick.
That way you'd still have the old one; and you'd have a new one
to use with the thin kerf blade.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
"Greg O" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "xrongor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:A03ec.8415$wP1.27193@attbi_s54...
> >
> > >
> > cutting aluminum on a table saw is one thing. shaving .025 off is
> something
> > else entirely.
> >
> > randy
> >
> >
>
> Agreed, that is why I would not do what he want to try.
> Routing aluminum is possible, what he wants to do is suicide!
> Greg
>
ya, little metal thing flying, bouncing, ouch!
i feel pretty confident with a file and a sanding block, and some money on
it, and you let me get it mounted securely first, i could get .025 off that
thing in less time than it would take to read every post in this thread,
outloud and legibly. <g>
randy
"Paul O." <[email protected]> wrote in message ...
> I could do it with an end mill with a 1/2" shank
> in my router and holding the splitter to the work bench with double sided
> tape. Does this sound safe enough to do? Thanks.
>
Reminds me of the old redneck joke that starts with what were the redneck's
last words? "Hey, watch this. . . . ."
Ed
> "Paul O." <[email protected]> wrote in message ...
> > I could do it with an end mill with a 1/2" shank
> > in my router and holding the splitter to the work bench with double
sided
> > tape. Does this sound safe enough to do? Thanks.
> >
>
> Ok folks, thanks for the replies. Will get around it another way.
--
Paul O.
[email protected]
Paul,
forget it, use a file. Yesterday I made a few hundred cuts (using a 100
tooth aluminium cutting blade) and have a few more left to do. After I am
finished cutting I will be cleaning the shop for the rest of the day,
aluminium is everywhere, it looks surreal in there, like in a movie or
something.
Anyway, use a file. Cutting aluminium is best done with a lubricant anyway,
and with a router spinning at 6000 rpm minimum there's going to be a huge
mess.
--
Greg (who yesterday bore an uncanny resemblance to a shiny sasquatch)
"Paul O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This may be a dumb question, but here goes. I have a piece of alum. .125"
> thick that I was using as a splitter on my TS. I bought a Frued thin kerf
> blade and need a thinner splitter, so I need to mill about .025" off the
> splitter and was thinking I could do it with an end mill with a 1/2" shank
> in my router and holding the splitter to the work bench with double sided
> tape. Does this sound safe enough to do? Thanks.
On Sat, 10 Apr 2004 11:06:49 -0700, "Paul O." <[email protected]>
wrote:
>This may be a dumb question, but here goes. I have a piece of alum. .125"
>thick that I was using as a splitter on my TS. I bought a Frued thin kerf
>blade and need a thinner splitter, so I need to mill about .025" off the
>splitter and was thinking I could do it with an end mill with a 1/2" shank
>in my router and holding the splitter to the work bench with double sided
>tape. Does this sound safe enough to do? Thanks.
Hi Paul,
Safety issues are often a judgment call, but here's mine:
"No." I would not do it.
That router is spinning at something like 22000 RPM if the tape let go
for any reason the splitter would be a flying blade.
I would go in the direction of making a splitter to use with the thin
blade, or perhaps better yet:
Why not clamp the splitter at one end and file the other, then switch.
If you are trying to remove only .025" or so, filing it would be
reasonable, and safe.
HTH,
--
Kenneth
If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
In article <FPeec.116526$w54.830965@attbi_s01>, [email protected]
says...
> accuracy has nothing to do with it. using a table saw for this is like
> using a table saw to slice bread. it may be possible, but why?
>
>
It's simple and safe in my experience, YMMV. . .
Kim
There is no such thing as a dumb question. The only dumb question is the
one not asked.
Just belt sand it down to the rough thickness. It's only a slitter -
doesn't have to be perfect
"Mike Hide" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Kw_dc.5288$xn4.25608@attbi_s51...
> Here is a reply to a dumb question with another dumb answer . have you
ever
> heard of a thing called a file .....????? mjh
>
> --
> http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
> "Paul O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > This may be a dumb question, but here goes. I have a piece of alum.
.125"
> > thick that I was using as a splitter on my TS. I bought a Frued thin
kerf
> > blade and need a thinner splitter, so I need to mill about .025" off the
> > splitter and was thinking I could do it with an end mill with a 1/2"
shank
> > in my router and holding the splitter to the work bench with double
sided
> > tape. Does this sound safe enough to do? Thanks.
> >
> > --
> > Paul O.
> > [email protected]
> >
> >
>