Slightly OT - kniFe sharpening

>I practice scary sharp on my chisels and planes, and even have
>sharpened my handsaws, but I don't know how to sharpen our kitchen
>knives.


>Please don't suggest that I learn to sharpen them by hand. It doesn't
>work. It's not a matter of technique it is more a matter of
>motivation. It just doesn't get done. The knives sit there dull and
>SWMBO complains about it. I need a quick, simple sharpener that I can
>run the knives through quickly when they are dull.

oops I almost replied (G) well the chef's choice pro is not too bad. I used one
till I wore it out.
http://netincomeventures.oingo.com/apps/domainpark/results.cgi?cid=GOTO0544&domain_name=sharpening.com&sid=008b72afe7200000&pid=4976&ac=r&s=knife%20sharpener


--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

[email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote in message news:<BGFDb.16528$P%[email protected]>...
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Chris) wrote:
> >Please don't suggest that I learn to sharpen them by hand.
>
> OK, I won't suggest that. Even if it *is* the best way to get them sharp. :-)

Not in my experience. Mechanical aids (including any kind of device
used to hold the blade at a constant angle) are *the* best way to
sharpen any blade. "By hand" is not only too ambigious for most
discussions, but it is highly overrated for almost every machining
operation.

I use the Chef's Choice three wheel sharpener.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00004S1B8/qid=1071604236/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2_etk-kitchen/103-3579240-7020664?v=glance&s=kitchen&n=284507

This is to set the angle of the bevel on the blade. In between times,
get a good hone steel - use it before every use of the knife.

--Stan Graves
[email protected]
http://www.SoundInMotionDJ.com

On 16 Dec 2003 11:57:57 -0800, [email protected] (Stan Graves)
wrote:

>Mechanical aids (including any kind of device
>used to hold the blade at a constant angle) are *the* best way to
>sharpen any blade. "By hand" is not only too ambigious for most
>discussions, but it is highly overrated for almost every machining
>operation.


I disagree. maintaining a constant angle is unnecessary on most tools
and just about irrelevant with kitchen cutlery. even with woodworking
tools, if you are within a few degrees (handwork tolerances) and do
not exceed a critical angle (more degrees than the frog angle of a
plane, for instance) the tool will work just fine. the time used
setting up a jig is better used elsewhere almost every time.
I say this as a 39 year old guy who has been working with sharp tools
(and sharpening them) since I was 8 or 10.

of course, YMMV







>
>I use the Chef's Choice three wheel sharpener.
>
>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00004S1B8/qid=1071604236/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2_etk-kitchen/103-3579240-7020664?v=glance&s=kitchen&n=284507
>
>This is to set the angle of the bevel on the blade. In between times,
>get a good hone steel - use it before every use of the knife.


you mean by hand or with an angle controlling device? ; ^ )



>
>--Stan Graves

Check out the Lansky system. I've been using one for
years and highly recommend it. It is not as fast as the
motorized gizmos, but the resulting edge is far superior.
In just a few minutes I can put a scary sharp edge on
SWMBO's knives. The stones may look wimpy
but it took me 10 years to wear out my first set.

Art

"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I practice scary sharp on my chisels and planes, and even have
> sharpened my handsaws, but I don't know how to sharpen our kitchen
> knives.
>
> So I am thinking of buying a sharpener - one of those automatic
> sharpeners. I have heard that they are mostly crap. However since
> sharpening is mostly a matter of putting a consistant angle on the
> blade it should be very well suited to a mechanical sharpener.
>
> There are some electic diamond wheel sharpeners that sharpen in 2 or 3
> stages. Anyone have any experience with any of these?
>
> Please don't suggest that I learn to sharpen them by hand. It doesn't
> work. It's not a matter of technique it is more a matter of
> motivation. It just doesn't get done. The knives sit there dull and
> SWMBO complains about it. I need a quick, simple sharpener that I can
> run the knives through quickly when they are dull.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris

[email protected] (Chris) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I practice scary sharp on my chisels and planes, and even have
> sharpened my handsaws, but I don't know how to sharpen our kitchen
> knives.

The BEST sharpener I've ever owned and still own is a $8 item which
have a "V" groove made of some sort of hardened steel that you draw
over the knife.

Here you go, I found it

http://www.accusharp.com/


I have sharpened knives which barely could slice through butter to a
point where they glide through a soft tomato.

I'd suggest taking them to a professional to get a really good edge on
them then keeping up with them by using a sraight steel (The rough
rods that come with most knife sets).

I know you don't want to do it manually, but...

If you have good knives and they start sharp, maintaining the edge is
nothing more that running the steel over them every time you wash
them. This will keep a good edge for about a year, when you can bring
them back to the sharpener for a tune-up.

Before you hand dry them, run them over the steel 10 times,
alternating sides and maintaining an eyeball 20 degree angle. Speed
doesn't matter.

If you have average knives, they sell these hand sharpeners that have
overlapping wheels that take care of the angle for you. Just start at
the handle and draw backwards, keeping the knife at perpendicular. The
good ones have two wheels, usually a brown, coarser whell, and a white
finish wheel.

In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] (Chris) wrote:
>I practice scary sharp on my chisels and planes, and even have
>sharpened my handsaws, but I don't know how to sharpen our kitchen
>knives.
>
[snip]
>Please don't suggest that I learn to sharpen them by hand.

OK, I won't suggest that. Even if it *is* the best way to get them sharp. :-)

>It doesn't
>work. It's not a matter of technique it is more a matter of
>motivation. It just doesn't get done. The knives sit there dull and
>SWMBO complains about it. I need a quick, simple sharpener that I can
>run the knives through quickly when they are dull.
>
Since you prefer quick and simple to sharp, just use the knife-grinder on your
electric can opener. Or buy a can opener that has one. It's not a very good
way to sharpen knives, but it's a darn sight better than leaving them dull. If
you strop them with an old belt afterward, you can get a decent edge.

We sharpen ours on the Tormek grinder in the workshop, and hone them
occasionally with the ceramic hone that came with my fish-filleting knife.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

I too have been a carpenter and wood worker for over 40 years. I do not
whet and strop kitchen cutlery. A fine edge is not appreciated by SWMBO
when she hacks at something still a bit frozen or uses it instead of a
screwdriver, or tries to pry the lid off whatever. I think after this many
years she is unteachable about these things, but, bless her heart, she means
well and I will probably keep her.

I went looking for a picture of the one I like and googled my way right to
here:
http://www.epinions.com/other_small_appliances-type_knife_sharpeners/_redir_att__~1
and found the one I like here:
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Knife_Sharpeners-AccuSharp-Accusharp_Knife_Sharpener

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
DanG


"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I practice scary sharp on my chisels and planes, and even have
> sharpened my handsaws, but I don't know how to sharpen our kitchen
> knives.
>
> So I am thinking of buying a sharpener - one of those automatic
> sharpeners. I have heard that they are mostly crap. However since
> sharpening is mostly a matter of putting a consistant angle on the
> blade it should be very well suited to a mechanical sharpener.
>
> There are some electic diamond wheel sharpeners that sharpen in 2 or 3
> stages. Anyone have any experience with any of these?
>
> Please don't suggest that I learn to sharpen them by hand. It doesn't
> work. It's not a matter of technique it is more a matter of
> motivation. It just doesn't get done. The knives sit there dull and
> SWMBO complains about it. I need a quick, simple sharpener that I can
> run the knives through quickly when they are dull.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris

"Chris" writes:

> I practice scary sharp on my chisels and planes, and even have
> sharpened my handsaws, but I don't know how to sharpen our kitchen
> knives.
>
> So I am thinking of buying a sharpener - one of those automatic
> sharpeners. I have heard that they are mostly crap.

IMHO, you are correct.

> However since
> sharpening is mostly a matter of putting a consistant angle on the
> blade it should be very well suited to a mechanical sharpener.

It is.


> There are some electic diamond wheel sharpeners that sharpen in 2 or 3
> stages. Anyone have any experience with any of these?

I don't.


> Please don't suggest that I learn to sharpen them by hand.

OK, I won't.

Several years ago got a knife sharpening kit developed by a guy in his
garage.

It is still available, but just not from him.

Found this link on Google.

Check out the "rod guided systems" section.

www.ameritech.net/users/knives/thankyou.htm

It works for me.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures

In article <[email protected]>, Jeremy Brown <[email protected]> writes:
> Something to be careful of is the angle of the edge wrt the face. I have
> read that different types of knives have different angles and using a
> sharpener that tries to put a different angle on the edge than what is
> already there can be trouble.

You want knife edges to be "hollow ground" i.e slightly concave to give a
thin sharp edge. To do this you sharpen with the edge of a grinding wheel,
nit the flat or the circumference. Commercial knife grinders do this and
hold the knife at the proper angle. I've got one that belonged to my
grandparents back in the 50s. Not commercial, but it does the job for
everything but my cleaver.

If you can't be bothered with this, ask your local butcher where they take
their knives for sharpening, and do so once a year or so. Our local Sears
Hardware store has a professional sharpener come in about once a month.

> If your knives are not very good quality, I'd recommend considering a
> new set. You can get a 7 piece set of Henckels 4 star, 5 star, pro s or
> Wüsthof classic or grand prix on Amazon for around $200. I got mine
> there for $140 because someone else had returned it. You could probably
> do the same after christmas. The 7 piece sets only have 4 knives, but
> that really is enough for most cooking. The only thing I've added is a
> bread knife. If you use the sharpening steel once in awhile, the knives
> stay very sharp. It only took me a couple tries to figure out how to use
> it, and it takes just a few seconds. I have had my set more than a year
> and use one knife in particular almost daily. It's still very sharp.

Year old Henckels aren't even broken in. Mine are now 23 years old, and
still in brand new condition, except for minor grainyness on the handles. If
you can afford them go with either the 4 or 5 star. The knives are
identical, only the handles differ. 4 star was all they had back when I
bought mine. Commercial grade full tang heavy duty stuff, but with treated
wooden handles. If you're running a restaraunt, and have to runthe knives
through a commercial dishwasher, go with the 5 star plastic handles. THat
will prevent the minor degridation I've seen on the handles.

Minimal set: 8" chef, 6" utility, 4" paring, steel. I've also got an 8" thin
slicing knife, a 7" bread knife, both a boning and fileting knife, a tomato
knife, and a cleaver. And the matching fork.

IMHO fancy steak knives are a waste of money. I wish we hadn't bought the
set we did, as we NEVER use them. If I can't cut a piece of meat with a
regular table knife, I don't want to eat it or serve it to guests!

While holiday gift shopping, I discovered that Henckels now has a lower
grade made in Spain that appear to be almost the same quality as the regular
stuff, but much less expensive. I can't yet comment on the quality. I'd be
VERY cautious of any knives from Japan or China...

Bob Kaplow NAR # 18L TRA # "Impeach the TRA BoD"
>>> To reply, remove the TRABoD! <<<
Kaplow Klips & Baffle: http://nira-rocketry.org/LeadingEdge/Phantom4000.pdf
www.encompasserve.org/~kaplow_r/ www.nira-rocketry.org www.nar.org

Save Model Rocketry from the HSA! http://www.space-rockets.com/congress.html

Chris wrote...
> I really just wanted sharp knives - I didn't want to become an expert
> (sigh).

Oh. Then you'd have no interest in this page:

http://forums.egullet.com/index.php?showtopic=26036

(G)

Jim

DCH's post reminded me of something else.

Lanskys systems come with one Multi Angle Knife Clamp
and it works great for short knives like paring knives. For
the longer knives I bought a second clamp and use 2 when
sharpening them.

Art

"Wood Butcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:3sIDb.572198$Fm2.535658@attbi_s04...
> Check out the Lansky system. I've been using one for
> years and highly recommend it. It is not as fast as the
> motorized gizmos, but the resulting edge is far superior.
> In just a few minutes I can put a scary sharp edge on
> SWMBO's knives. The stones may look wimpy
> but it took me 10 years to wear out my first set.
>
> Art
>
> "Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I practice scary sharp on my chisels and planes, and even have
> > sharpened my handsaws, but I don't know how to sharpen our kitchen
> > knives.
> >
> > So I am thinking of buying a sharpener - one of those automatic
> > sharpeners. I have heard that they are mostly crap. However since
> > sharpening is mostly a matter of putting a consistant angle on the
> > blade it should be very well suited to a mechanical sharpener.
> >
> > There are some electic diamond wheel sharpeners that sharpen in 2 or 3
> > stages. Anyone have any experience with any of these?
> >
> > Please don't suggest that I learn to sharpen them by hand. It doesn't
> > work. It's not a matter of technique it is more a matter of
> > motivation. It just doesn't get done. The knives sit there dull and
> > SWMBO complains about it. I need a quick, simple sharpener that I can
> > run the knives through quickly when they are dull.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > -Chris
>
>

[email protected] (Chris) wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> I need a quick, simple sharpener that I can
> run the knives through quickly when they are dull.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris
>

Chris,

For quick and simple, I found this for SWMBO last year:

http://www.fiskars.com/US/crafts/lookupItem.do?cat=1&itemNumber=31849&fam=5

(watch for wrap). The item is Fiskars 'Roll Sharp Knife Sharpener', #
40127097

It was about $8 at a kitchen gadgets shop. This works really, really well
-- you guide the knife blade through at 90 degrees; the wheel is 'canted'
at the correct angle to get an edge.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

JT

Greeting...

I too use a Lansky to sharpen my pocket knives, and I think it works very
well, for the kitchen knives I use couple of long whetstones, followed
but a ceramic rod, the results are pretty nifty, sharpening by hand is
just being able to do the same thing over and over, much like using a
jig, except your hands become the jig...and IMO it just takes
practice...and patience...lots of that....but once you get it..it becomes
much easier...

hope this helps...

DCH




Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 16:53:59 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
> <[email protected]> suggested:
>
>>
>>"Chris" writes:
>>
>>> I practice scary sharp on my chisels and planes, and even have
>>> sharpened my handsaws, but I don't know how to sharpen our kitchen
>>> knives.
> <snip>
>>Several years ago got a knife sharpening kit developed by a guy in his
>>garage.
>>
>>It is still available, but just not from him.
>>
>>Found this link on Google.
>>
>>Check out the "rod guided systems" section.
>>
>>www.ameritech.net/users/knives/thankyou.htm
>>
>>It works for me.
>
> Me too. The Lansky system is the one I use, after trying stones, belt
> sanders, the LVT guide. Coarse diamond stone to shape the angle, then
> though the coarse, medium and sometimes fine stones. Perfect edge you
> can shave with. The only problem is that the stones are pretty small
> for my big paws. A few licks with a steel keeps the edge good for a
> while. No, if only I could convince the LOML to use the f... steel!
>
> Luigi
> Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address
>

Something to be careful of is the angle of the edge wrt the face. I have
read that different types of knives have different angles and using a
sharpener that tries to put a different angle on the edge than what is
already there can be trouble.

If your knives are not very good quality, I'd recommend considering a
new set. You can get a 7 piece set of Henckels 4 star, 5 star, pro s or
Wüsthof classic or grand prix on Amazon for around $200. I got mine
there for $140 because someone else had returned it. You could probably
do the same after christmas. The 7 piece sets only have 4 knives, but
that really is enough for most cooking. The only thing I've added is a
bread knife. If you use the sharpening steel once in awhile, the knives
stay very sharp. It only took me a couple tries to figure out how to use
it, and it takes just a few seconds. I have had my set more than a year
and use one knife in particular almost daily. It's still very sharp.

A lot of sharpeners can cost as much as a set of nice knives, so I think
buying new is good option for lots of people.

My other suggestion would be checking your local grocery stores.
Sometimes their butcher departments will sharpen your knives cheap or
free. One near me even advertises free knife sharpening on the radio.



Chris wrote:
> I practice scary sharp on my chisels and planes, and even have
> sharpened my handsaws, but I don't know how to sharpen our kitchen
> knives.
>
> So I am thinking of buying a sharpener - one of those automatic
> sharpeners. I have heard that they are mostly crap. However since
> sharpening is mostly a matter of putting a consistant angle on the
> blade it should be very well suited to a mechanical sharpener.
>
> There are some electic diamond wheel sharpeners that sharpen in 2 or 3
> stages. Anyone have any experience with any of these?
>
> Please don't suggest that I learn to sharpen them by hand. It doesn't
> work. It's not a matter of technique it is more a matter of
> motivation. It just doesn't get done. The knives sit there dull and
> SWMBO complains about it. I need a quick, simple sharpener that I can
> run the knives through quickly when they are dull.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Chris

Chris,

I recommend you go to www.lansky.com. Lansky makes reasonably priced
knife sharpening systems that work great with no learning curve
involved. I am not affiliated with them but I am a very satisfied
customer. I think I bought mine through Amazon. I sharpened all of my
kitchen knifes in a little over an hour after years of putting up with
dull knives.

I've found that for kitchen knives and even most general use pocket
knives that a diamond steel followed by a few passes on a ceramic
stick is the best way to get a shaving sharp edge. Usually about 4 or
5 passes on the diamond get the edge good and then the ceramic
smoothes the roughness out of the edge.

Dean

Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 18:48:31 GMT, "Wood Butcher" <[email protected]>
> scribbled
>
> >Check out the Lansky system. I've been using one for
> >years and highly recommend it. It is not as fast as the
> >motorized gizmos, but the resulting edge is far superior.
> >In just a few minutes I can put a scary sharp edge on
> >SWMBO's knives. The stones may look wimpy
> >but it took me 10 years to wear out my first set.
> >
> >Art
>
> I did wear out (actually put a bow) in the coarse stone when I redid
> the angles on all the kitchen knives. I now use a diamond stone first
> for that reason. I haven't been able to flatten the coarse stone.
> Sandpaper just glazed it, no matter how coarse. The concrete floor
> didn't work either.
>
> Other than that, it's a great system.
>
> Luigi
> Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address

Juergen Hannappel <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> [email protected] writes:
>
>
> [...]
>
> >
> > a sharpening steel is a very quick way to keep an edge on kitchen
> > knives. if they are very dull you'll need to do something more
> > agressive, but for the most part a file works great for that.
>
> ... but should not be used on laminated japanese knives, and some of
> the more fancy western knives (like ceramic or specially coated) might
> also get problems with them. Otherwise it's a *very* handy and quick
> thing, only a few strokes are needed at a time.

http://groups.google.com/groups?q=knife+FAQ+group:rec.crafts.metalworking&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&group=rec.crafts.metalworking&selm=50mifvsf2et707214eb6tg050ue4cnc2m5%404ax.com&rnum=1

Watch the word wrap. That's the Knife Sharpening FAQ in
rec.crafts.metalworking. I learned a lot from it, and I consider
myself kinda in the know on sharpening.

A word on steels...They don't actually *do* any sharpening. As the
fine edge of the knife gets "folded over" the knife feels dull. The
steel stands the edge back up again, for a little more use. When the
edge actually gets dull, no amount of steeling is going to do you any
real good.

-Phil Crow

[email protected] (Bob Kaplow) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> In article <[email protected]>, Jeremy Brown <[email protected]> writes:
>
> If you can't be bothered with this, ask your local butcher where they take
> their knives for sharpening, and do so once a year or so. Our local Sears
> Hardware store has a professional sharpener come in about once a month.
>

I remeber when I was a kid, the Sharpener used to drive through the
neighborhood periodically, ringing his bell... We took our Henkels to
Chef Central for sharpening and they charged $20+ for sharpening that
was IMO not very well done.

>
> While holiday gift shopping, I discovered that Henckels now has a lower
> grade made in Spain that appear to be almost the same quality as the regular
> stuff, but much less expensive. I can't yet comment on the quality. I'd be
> VERY cautious of any knives from Japan or China...
>
I think I saw these too. The handles were a very cheap plastic and
they did not feel very solid. Felt like something you would buy from
a TV ad. Now maybe they cut very well and hold an edge great, but
frankly I was suprised that Henckel would put their name on something
so shoddy.

-Chris

Thanks everyone for the good information.

I just wanted some advice about the automatic sharpeners, such as the
Chef's Choice. Several responded as such and I thank you.

Many others responded (as I predicted) about other methods, such as
the Lansky System, and I curse you. I wanted a simple method, but as
usually is the case, I found the best method might not be the simplest
method and I usually opt for best over simplest (that's MY curse).
Seems like the Lansky might be best for me since I am not very good
with just a plain stone (can't seem to keep the dang angle consistant
- same reason I have a jig for "scary sharp."

I am also going to check out rec-metalworking.sharpening (or whatever
the group was) for a little more info.

I really just wanted sharp knives - I didn't want to become an expert
(sigh).

-Chris

On 16 Dec 2003 16:55:15 -0800, [email protected] (Phil Crow)
wrote:

>A word on steels...They don't actually *do* any sharpening. As the
>fine edge of the knife gets "folded over" the knife feels dull. The
>steel stands the edge back up again, for a little more use. When the
>edge actually gets dull, no amount of steeling is going to do you any
>real good.

Having seen electron microscope pictures of knife edges both before
and after steeling I think it is a lot more complex than just
"standing the edge back up". The pictures seem to show metal being
flowed back along the blade from the edge, if overdone it showed slabs
of steel that were overlaying the sides of the blade and which would
break off as soon as the knife was used, making it duller than when it
started. I've used both smooth and serrated steels and the smooth ones
seem to be prone to the over-steeling problem while the serrated ones
remove metal from the edge so don't do the same thing. In short, a
smooth steel is a completely different tool from a serrated one and
does a similar job in a completely different way.

In most cases if 5-6 strokes on each side with the steel doesn't
restore a razor edge you need to go back to the stone.

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

On 16 Dec 2003 16:55:15 -0800, [email protected] (Phil Crow)
wrote:


snip link to sharpening info


>
>A word on steels...They don't actually *do* any sharpening. As the
>fine edge of the knife gets "folded over" the knife feels dull. The
>steel stands the edge back up again, for a little more use. When the
>edge actually gets dull, no amount of steeling is going to do you any
>real good.
>
>-Phil Crow


Phil-
here's a little test you can do to confirm that your steel is (or
isn't) removing metal. they aren't all the same, ya know, and most
*do* remove some.

get a largeish sheet of white paper and some paper towels. clean your
steel before you start. take a nice dull knife and holding it and the
steel over the paper sharpen away at the knife. check yourself often,
and don't be afraid of using a bit of pressure. sooner or later the
knife will show signs of improving sharpness. then take a damp paper
towel and wipe the steel. look for black marks on the towel- that's
metal from the knife. now fold the paper and shake the filings down
into the crease. that's also metal from the knife....
Bridger

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 18:48:31 GMT, "Wood Butcher" <[email protected]>
scribbled

>Check out the Lansky system. I've been using one for
>years and highly recommend it. It is not as fast as the
>motorized gizmos, but the resulting edge is far superior.
>In just a few minutes I can put a scary sharp edge on
>SWMBO's knives. The stones may look wimpy
>but it took me 10 years to wear out my first set.
>
>Art

I did wear out (actually put a bow) in the coarse stone when I redid
the angles on all the kitchen knives. I now use a diamond stone first
for that reason. I haven't been able to flatten the coarse stone.
Sandpaper just glazed it, no matter how coarse. The concrete floor
didn't work either.

Other than that, it's a great system.

Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address

Yup, that's how I wear mine out. I put a dish in the middle of each
stone. However I found that the cheap diamond hones from HF
(#36799) level them right out. They do leave small scratches in the
fine stone but it doesn't seem to affect it's ability to give a razor sharp
edge.

Art

"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
> I did wear out (actually put a bow) in the coarse stone when I redid
> the angles on all the kitchen knives. I now use a diamond stone first
> for that reason. I haven't been able to flatten the coarse stone.
> Sandpaper just glazed it, no matter how coarse. The concrete floor
> didn't work either.

On 16 Dec 2003 07:27:58 -0800, [email protected] (Chris)
wrote:

>I practice scary sharp on my chisels and planes, and even have
>sharpened my handsaws, but I don't know how to sharpen our kitchen
>knives.
>
>So I am thinking of buying a sharpener - one of those automatic
>sharpeners. I have heard that they are mostly crap. However since
>sharpening is mostly a matter of putting a consistant angle on the
>blade it should be very well suited to a mechanical sharpener.
>
>There are some electic diamond wheel sharpeners that sharpen in 2 or 3
>stages. Anyone have any experience with any of these?
>
>Please don't suggest that I learn to sharpen them by hand. It doesn't
>work. It's not a matter of technique it is more a matter of
>motivation. It just doesn't get done. The knives sit there dull and
>SWMBO complains about it. I need a quick, simple sharpener that I can
>run the knives through quickly when they are dull.
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Chris




Chris-

a sharpening steel is a very quick way to keep an edge on kitchen
knives. if they are very dull you'll need to do something more
agressive, but for the most part a file works great for that.

yes, there is some skill involved. not much, but some. it's worth it,
though. the steel lives with the knives. I check the sharpness as part
of the dish washing- the idea is that no knife gets put away dull, so
they are ready to go when needed...
Bridger

On Wed, 17 Dec 2003 02:30:39 GMT, "Wood Butcher" <[email protected]>
scribbled

>Yup, that's how I wear mine out. I put a dish in the middle of each
>stone. However I found that the cheap diamond hones from HF
>(#36799) level them right out. They do leave small scratches in the
>fine stone but it doesn't seem to affect it's ability to give a razor sharp
>edge.

Gotta try that diamond hone trick, if I can still find to old coarse
stone - I might have tossed it. The others (fine & medium) are in good
shape as I only use them to hone the blade, rather than to shape the
angle.

Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 16:53:59 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> suggested:

>
>"Chris" writes:
>
>> I practice scary sharp on my chisels and planes, and even have
>> sharpened my handsaws, but I don't know how to sharpen our kitchen
>> knives.
<snip>
>Several years ago got a knife sharpening kit developed by a guy in his
>garage.
>
>It is still available, but just not from him.
>
>Found this link on Google.
>
>Check out the "rod guided systems" section.
>
>www.ameritech.net/users/knives/thankyou.htm
>
>It works for me.

Me too. The Lansky system is the one I use, after trying stones, belt
sanders, the LVT guide. Coarse diamond stone to shape the angle, then
though the coarse, medium and sometimes fine stones. Perfect edge you
can shave with. The only problem is that the stones are pretty small
for my big paws. A few licks with a steel keeps the edge good for a
while. No, if only I could convince the LOML to use the f... steel!

Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address

[email protected] (Bob Kaplow) writes:


[...]

> stuff, but much less expensive. I can't yet comment on the quality. I'd be
> VERY cautious of any knives from Japan or China...

Why? Because they are so extremely sharp? Or because the expensive
ones are not stainless?
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23

[email protected] writes:


[...]

>
> a sharpening steel is a very quick way to keep an edge on kitchen
> knives. if they are very dull you'll need to do something more
> agressive, but for the most part a file works great for that.

... but should not be used on laminated japanese knives, and some of
the more fancy western knives (like ceramic or specially coated) might
also get problems with them. Otherwise it's a *very* handy and quick
thing, only a few strokes are needed at a time.


--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23