Just wrapping up my first piece of Mission furniture: coffee table.
For fun, I used 3/8" walnut dowels through the legs to pin the lower
stretchers, instead of concealed MT, or through MT. Looks fine, but
I've since discovered square pegs, which look better . . .
I'm tempted to drill out the 3/8" dowels, and re-do it with square
pegs. However, according to the archives, square peg technique
apparently has me rounding the peg, leaving the visible end square.
If this is true, I'm tempted to simply make a square inlay at the
surface, and leave the round dowel in place. I'd like to retain the
Mission A&C ethic, so I need someone to tell me this is an ethical way
to achieve my goal! Or not.
;>)
Since it's already together, fake it. And don't tell anybody.
John
Scott wrote:
>Just wrapping up my first piece of Mission furniture: coffee table.
>For fun, I used 3/8" walnut dowels through the legs to pin the lower
>stretchers, instead of concealed MT, or through MT. Looks fine, but
>I've since discovered square pegs, which look better . . .
>
>I'm tempted to drill out the 3/8" dowels, and re-do it with square
>pegs. However, according to the archives, square peg technique
>apparently has me rounding the peg, leaving the visible end square.
>If this is true, I'm tempted to simply make a square inlay at the
>surface, and leave the round dowel in place. I'd like to retain the
>Mission A&C ethic, so I need someone to tell me this is an ethical way
>to achieve my goal! Or not.
>
>;>)
>
>
personal opinion, what makes you happy is the correct thing to do. I
would probably just leave them round.
BRuce
Scott wrote:
> Just wrapping up my first piece of Mission furniture: coffee table.
> For fun, I used 3/8" walnut dowels through the legs to pin the lower
> stretchers, instead of concealed MT, or through MT. Looks fine, but
> I've since discovered square pegs, which look better . . .
>
> I'm tempted to drill out the 3/8" dowels, and re-do it with square
> pegs. However, according to the archives, square peg technique
> apparently has me rounding the peg, leaving the visible end square.
> If this is true, I'm tempted to simply make a square inlay at the
> surface, and leave the round dowel in place. I'd like to retain the
> Mission A&C ethic, so I need someone to tell me this is an ethical way
> to achieve my goal! Or not.
>
> ;>)
very nice, I don't see a problem with the round ones. I would leave em,
put the finish on and start my next project.
BRuce
Scott wrote:
> RB <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
>
>>If the current piece is well made leave it alone. Experiment on your
>>next project. (Or, If it ain't broke don't fix it 'cause it will be then.)
>>
>>RB
>>
>
>
> Yeah, good advise. Below is a pic of the dowels in the present
> unstained condition:
>
> http://home.att.net/~slurban3/Photos/Coffee-table1-480.jpg
>
> I was thinking that square pegs would look better because the piece
> itself is entirely rectangular in design. I'll consider square pegs,
> and maybe through-tenons on the next project: nightstands for the
> bedroom.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Scott
--
---
BRuce
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>
> The same technique, but just drilling over the existing peg to a depth of
> 1/4" in or so, ought to allow you to glue in a square "peg head".
>
> ... and, if you really want to obsess, make the "peg head" so that it
> sticks out above the surface about 1/4" and bevel it . ;>)
Ooh . . . noooo . . . just when I thought I'd get some sleep tonight . . .
;>)
"Mike Hide" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<tnEWb.12201$uV3.30629@attbi_s51>...
>
> Square pegs were used so that the corners would bite into the hole and stay
> put through the years. The hole was initially drilled without the tennon
> inserted. Then the tennon was then fitted and the drill inserted so that it
> would just mark the tennon .The tennon was removed and the hole drilled
> perhaps 1/32" inboard of the mark so when the peg was inserted the slight
> hole missalignment drew the tennon in, making the joint tight....mjh
> --
>
>
Interesting . . . thanks for the info.
Scott
RB <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> If the current piece is well made leave it alone. Experiment on your
> next project. (Or, If it ain't broke don't fix it 'cause it will be then.)
>
> RB
>
Yeah, good advise. Below is a pic of the dowels in the present
unstained condition:
http://home.att.net/~slurban3/Photos/Coffee-table1-480.jpg
I was thinking that square pegs would look better because the piece
itself is entirely rectangular in design. I'll consider square pegs,
and maybe through-tenons on the next project: nightstands for the
bedroom.
Cheers,
Scott
If the current piece is well made leave it alone. Experiment on your
next project. (Or, If it ain't broke don't fix it 'cause it will be then.)
RB
Scott wrote:
> Just wrapping up my first piece of Mission furniture: coffee table.
> For fun, I used 3/8" walnut dowels through the legs to pin the lower
> stretchers, instead of concealed MT, or through MT. Looks fine, but
> I've since discovered square pegs, which look better . . .
>
> I'm tempted to drill out the 3/8" dowels, and re-do it with square
> pegs. However, according to the archives, square peg technique
> apparently has me rounding the peg, leaving the visible end square.
> If this is true, I'm tempted to simply make a square inlay at the
> surface, and leave the round dowel in place. I'd like to retain the
> Mission A&C ethic, so I need someone to tell me this is an ethical way
> to achieve my goal! Or not.
>
> ;>)
Lawrence L'Hote wrote:
> "Eddie Munster" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:%[email protected]...
>
>>Since it's already together, fake it. And don't tell anybody.
>>
>>John
>
>
> I agree. Can you tell what is fake with this joint?
>
> http://home.mchsi.com/%7Elarrylhote/mirrorpage/mirror5big.JPG
>
> Larry
My guess the tennon? The grain looks different.
-Bruce
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
"Lawrence L'Hote" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:CJvWb.279239$xy6.1423727@attbi_s02...
>
> "Eddie Munster" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:%[email protected]...
> > Since it's already together, fake it. And don't tell anybody.
> >
> > John
>
> I agree. Can you tell what is fake with this joint?
>
> http://home.mchsi.com/%7Elarrylhote/mirrorpage/mirror5big.JPG
>
> Larry
Not a through tenon. You faked the tenon - probably pinned both sides with
the pegs.
Jon E
"Eddie Munster" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> Since it's already together, fake it. And don't tell anybody.
>
> John
I agree. Can you tell what is fake with this joint?
http://home.mchsi.com/%7Elarrylhote/mirrorpage/mirror5big.JPG
Larry
--
Lawrence L'Hote
Columbia, MO
http://home.mchsi.com/~larrylhote
http://home.mchsi.com/~llhote
No.
I could only guess.
John
Lawrence L'Hote wrote:
>"Eddie Munster" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:%[email protected]...
>
>
>>Since it's already together, fake it. And don't tell anybody.
>>
>>John
>>
>>
>
>I agree. Can you tell what is fake with this joint?
>
>http://home.mchsi.com/%7Elarrylhote/mirrorpage/mirror5big.JPG
>
>Larry
>
>
I have two ealy walnut chairs, circa 1730 all tennons have square pegs and
to the best of my knowledge no glue. The heads of the pegs are proud of the
surface, as the wood shrinks the pegs get squeezed . that is one way of
authenicating that the pegs are real.When refinishing such pieces the last
thing you need to do is to sand them flat to the surface .
Square pegs were used so that the corners would bite into the hole and stay
put through the years. The hole was initially drilled without the tennon
inserted. Then the tennon was then fitted and the drill inserted so that it
would just mark the tennon .The tennon was removed and the hole drilled
perhaps 1/32" inboard of the mark so when the peg was inserted the slight
hole missalignment drew the tennon in, making the joint tight....mjh
--
"Scott" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> >
> > The same technique, but just drilling over the existing peg to a depth
of
> > 1/4" in or so, ought to allow you to glue in a square "peg head".
> >
> > ... and, if you really want to obsess, make the "peg head" so that it
> > sticks out above the surface about 1/4" and bevel it . ;>)
>
>
>
> Ooh . . . noooo . . . just when I thought I'd get some sleep tonight . . .
>
> ;>)
"Scott" wrote in message
> Just wrapping up my first piece of Mission furniture: coffee table.
> For fun, I used 3/8" walnut dowels through the legs to pin the lower
> stretchers, instead of concealed MT, or through MT. Looks fine, but
> I've since discovered square pegs, which look better . . .
>
> I'm tempted to drill out the 3/8" dowels, and re-do it with square
> pegs. However, according to the archives, square peg technique
> apparently has me rounding the peg, leaving the visible end square.
> If this is true, I'm tempted to simply make a square inlay at the
> surface, and leave the round dowel in place. I'd like to retain the
> Mission A&C ethic, so I need someone to tell me this is an ethical way
> to achieve my goal! Or not.
You are correct, square ended pegs are traditional, but I wouldn't obsess
over it.
You are also correct in that the pegs are actually square to begin with,
whittled or sanded round, leaving the last 1/4" or so square, and driving
into a round hole, the end of which has been squared with a square ended
punch of the correct size.
The same technique, but just drilling over the existing peg to a depth of
1/4" in or so, ought to allow you to glue in a square "peg head".
... and, if you really want to obsess, make the "peg head" so that it
sticks out above the surface about 1/4" and bevel it . ;>)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/05/04