loyde,
would you be willing to post pictures or plans of your machine? i am in
the process of planning to build a drum sander.
thanks,
--- dz
Loyde Berkholtz wrote:
> I have a double 36 inch drum sander which I built.It works very well.The
> only problem I would like to resolve is how to prevent or remove pitch or
> glue from the spiral wrap sanding paper on the drums to extend the life of
> the paper.
>
>
Well, the crepe rubber seems to work on other machines, though LP apparently
disagrees. Trouble is you have to put your body at considerable risk to use
it on a drum sander. Seems I also saw a version of the crepe rubber cleaner
for drum sanders in the Klingspor catalog, though I can't find it just now.
FWIW, here's an alternative which works very well on softwood for me:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=46294&category=1,41182,45204&ccurrency=2&SID=
I doubt that stearated papers would be an alternative for the drum sander as
they are for other powered sanding.
"LP" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 23 Dec 2003 17:13:43 -0800, "Loyde Berkholtz"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I have a double 36 inch drum sander which I built.It works very well.The
> >only problem I would like to resolve is how to prevent or remove pitch or
> >glue from the spiral wrap sanding paper on the drums to extend the life
of
> >the paper.
> >
>
> Good luck. The only sure cure I know of is to not sand pitchy woods.
>
> Typically the friction heat melts the resin, allowing it to collect on
> the paper, where the very structure of the paper gives it a very
> toothy surface to grab on to, and it becomes almost a permanent part
> of the paper.
>
> All those gizmos sold to remove this are, IMNSHO, right up there with
> witchcraft and voodoo, and are composed of 100 percent marketing
> bullshit.
>
> If you're sanding a lot of pine or other pitchy woods you just have to
> bite it and expect that your paper costs are going to escalate, and
> quite dramatically.
>
If you are diligent with the application of a crepe rubber cleaning bar
during use you can greatly inhibit the build up and when the job is done
soaking the rolls in warm water and soap will loosen the rest to where a
file card will easily clean up the rest.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Loyde Berkholtz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a double 36 inch drum sander which I built.It works very well.The
> only problem I would like to resolve is how to prevent or remove pitch or
> glue from the spiral wrap sanding paper on the drums to extend the life of
> the paper.
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
Loyde Berkholtz <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a double 36 inch drum sander which I built.It works very well.The
>only problem I would like to resolve is how to prevent or remove pitch or
>glue from the spiral wrap sanding paper on the drums to extend the life of
>the paper.
>
Soak them for an hour or so in water & Simple Green then use a brass
wire brush to clean off the caked spots. The paper for my Performax
doesn't seem to be effected by water - even when I've forgotten and left
it in the jar for a few days.
--
Scott Post [email protected] http://home.insightbb.com/~sepost/
On Tue, 23 Dec 2003 17:13:43 -0800, "Loyde Berkholtz"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a double 36 inch drum sander which I built.It works very well.The
>only problem I would like to resolve is how to prevent or remove pitch or
>glue from the spiral wrap sanding paper on the drums to extend the life of
>the paper.
>
Good luck. The only sure cure I know of is to not sand pitchy woods.
Typically the friction heat melts the resin, allowing it to collect on
the paper, where the very structure of the paper gives it a very
toothy surface to grab on to, and it becomes almost a permanent part
of the paper.
All those gizmos sold to remove this are, IMNSHO, right up there with
witchcraft and voodoo, and are composed of 100 percent marketing
bullshit.
If you're sanding a lot of pine or other pitchy woods you just have to
bite it and expect that your paper costs are going to escalate, and
quite dramatically.
Not the answer you wanted, I'm sure, but once you accept that there
just isnt any good way to remove that resin glaze, and accept that
paper changes are going to come more frequently, life gets a little
easier.
Note: I hear good things about the new 3M and Mirka papers but have
no experience with them so perhaps they may alleviate this problem a
bit. I dont think they'll make the problem disappear.