You can make the same thing in a about 5 minutes with a small piece of scrap
in your pile. Using a 1x3 by 6" or so, cut a square notch out of the end
grain and round it. Lay that piece of wood on top of another that is only
about 2". Place and clamp your new jig on the table so that the cut out
portion is around the blade. The piece you want to duplicate runs against
the cut out portion and the piece you are cutting runs under it to be cut by
the blade. Clear as mud?
Don
"Ace" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:PfDjd.380850$D%.258870@attbi_s51...
>I see where Lee Valley has it for $19.95. What do you think about it, is it
> worth getting?
> Thanks
>
>
Ace,
If it's the one that is a long 'pin' attached to the blade guide, I can give
you a bit of my experience.
If you intend to only make pieces like Mike Latcha - straight or wide,
sweeping curves - it MAY work out. However, my attempt cost me a ruined
template.
I wanted to make a Rose Arbor for Joanne, for over our front entrance walk.
It was to be from 2x4 stock. The top frames had corbels on their ends, and
six more corbels had to be cut - 3 for each side - to go between the ends.
The idea was to stack two or three of the 6in long blanks, attach the 1/4in
template and cut them out. It would be quick and they would all match.
There was no instructions with the 'duplicator' but it looked straight
forward, with the picture on the package. I set it up and started to cut a
'practice sample' from some 3/4 scrap. Because of the unavoidable gap
between the pin and the teeth of the blade, it WILL NOT follow any kind of
short curve. As the pin followed the template, the blade cuts another -
changing - path . . . and cut a large chunk off the template !!
I've tried to attached it a couple of different ways . . . it simply won't
'copy' as I expected. The device that seems to have the best potential, is
the simple self-made jig illustrated in several of the books. Basically, a
narrow piece of stock with a flat, shallow 'notch' filed in the end.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"Ace" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:PfDjd.380850$D%.258870@attbi_s51...
> I see where Lee Valley has it for $19.95. What do you think about it, is
it
> worth getting?
> Thanks
>
>
"Ace" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:PfDjd.380850$D%.258870@attbi_s51...
>I see where Lee Valley has it for $19.95. What do you think about it, is it
> worth getting?
> Thanks
I was faced with the prospect of making 6 sets of these:
http://www.hwtears.com/woodpieces.htm
for my kid's school out of 1/4" Baltic plywood. After I got the patterns
(which were free), I spent about 2 hours making templates of the curved
pieces, as near to perfect as I could. Once the templates were done, I
taped together the plywood and cut the pieces, 6 at a time (with a new 1/4"
Timberwolf), guided the Lee Valley duplicator. Got everything cut out in a
day, very little sanding, even have half the double-sided tape left that
came with the duplicator.
I'm not sure when I'll use it again, but it really came through for me.
Michael Latcha - at home in Redford, MI
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 15:27:01 GMT, "Ron Magen" <[email protected]>
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Apart from the caft that there are wooden makeups that work, I can't
understand why that gap is "unavoidable" except for the shortcomings
of the design. It should be adjustable, right up to the blade IMO.
>'practice sample' from some 3/4 scrap. Because of the unavoidable gap
>between the pin and the teeth of the blade, it WILL NOT follow any kind of
>short curve. As the pin followed the template, the blade cuts another -
>changing - path . . . and cut a large chunk off the template !!
*****************************************************
Dogs are better than people.
People are better than dogs for only one purpose. And
then it's only half of ofthe people. And _then_ most
of them are only ordinary anyway. And then they have a
headache.........
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 15:27:01 GMT, "Ron Magen" <[email protected]>
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Ah! Good. My impression is borne out.
>Ace,
>If it's the one that is a long 'pin' attached to the blade guide, I can give
>you a bit of my experience.
>
>If you intend to only make pieces like Mike Latcha - straight or wide,
>sweeping curves - it MAY work out. However, my attempt cost me a ruined
>template.
snip
>There was no instructions with the 'duplicator' but it looked straight
>forward, with the picture on the package. I set it up and started to cut a
>'practice sample' from some 3/4 scrap. Because of the unavoidable gap
>between the pin and the teeth of the blade, it WILL NOT follow any kind of
>short curve. As the pin followed the template, the blade cuts another -
>changing - path . . . and cut a large chunk off the template !!
*****************************************************
Dogs are better than people.
People are better than dogs for only one purpose. And
then it's only half of ofthe people. And _then_ most
of them are only ordinary anyway. And then they have a
headache.........
On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 05:13:19 GMT, "Ace" <[email protected]> vaguely
proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>I see where Lee Valley has it for $19.95. What do you think about it, is it
>worth getting?
>Thanks
>
$20 for that? hmmm..
IMO (not IME)
- it would still take some skill and a steady hand to use to get a
really good result.
- as shown it would need an interesting template to do fine work.
*****************************************************
Dogs are better than people.
People are better than dogs for only one purpose. And
then it's only half of ofthe people. And _then_ most
of them are only ordinary anyway. And then they have a
headache.........