I am looking to put heat in my garage and really don't have the room in my
electrical panel to take up a slot for an electric heater, not to mention
the cost to run one, and really don't want to go through the hassle of
digging up the yard , not to mention the expense of running a gas line , to
install a gas heater. I was wondering anyone's opinion on installing a wood
burning stove. Although I guess a wood burning stove would use electricity
also, but would probably be less expensive to run. Any suggestions?
Thank You
Rich Petruso
you make mistake using wood stove you go BOOOOOM..
"Richard J Petruso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am looking to put heat in my garage and really don't have the room in my
> electrical panel to take up a slot for an electric heater, not to mention
> the cost to run one, and really don't want to go through the hassle of
> digging up the yard , not to mention the expense of running a gas line ,
to
> install a gas heater. I was wondering anyone's opinion on installing a
wood
> burning stove. Although I guess a wood burning stove would use electricity
> also, but would probably be less expensive to run. Any suggestions?
> Thank You
> Rich Petruso
>
>
"mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>>
> Used furnaces are all over the place. I have a couple horizontal propane
> furnaces that I am trying to get rid of. They both worked when they came
> out, but I was figuring on one for working, and one for parts. I never
did
> hook them up, because I figured forced hot air would be a sawdust problem.
> They're still upstairs over my shop sitting there. Any takers? Saratoga
> NY area....
>
>
Forced air heat is not a problem for wood shops. Put good air filters on
them and change when dirty. End of problem!
Greg
"Richard J Petruso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am looking to put heat in my garage and really don't have the room in my
> electrical panel to take up a slot for an electric heater, not to mention
> the cost to run one, and really don't want to go through the hassle of
> digging up the yard , not to mention the expense of running a gas line ,
to
> install a gas heater. I was wondering anyone's opinion on installing a
wood
> burning stove. Although I guess a wood burning stove would use electricity
> also, but would probably be less expensive to run. Any suggestions?
> Thank You
> Rich Petruso
>
>
Wood may be a code and/or insurance problem.
If you have gas or propane the best bet is a ceiling hung unit heater.
Reznor is a popular brand, Modine makes a Hot Dawg that is popular too.
Either one is realitvely easy to install if you are handy with tools.
Greg
"mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> > Forced air heat is not a problem for wood shops. Put good air filters on
> > them and change when dirty. End of problem!
> > Greg
> >
> I meant not that they would get dirty, but that a blast of hot air coming
> out of a vent would blow stuff around.
>
>
Not if installed properly.
I see alot of shops in the area use either forced air or ceiling hung unit
heaters. Both blow air around. Neither are a problem.
Greg
"mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > Not if installed properly.
> > I see alot of shops in the area use either forced air or ceiling hung
unit
> > heaters. Both blow air around. Neither are a problem.
> > Greg
>
> I wasn't sure of my ability to install it 'properly' then. Plus, it
required
> cutting holes in my roof for a chimney pipe. It's an 85,000 btu furnace,
> and like I said I have a 16x24 shop. Seemed like overkill, but it
> definitely would have been FAST. I also have a furnace blower (squirrel
> cage) on a stand that I use for quick ventilation of paint fumes and what
> not, and I know it's pretty powerful. I just couldn't imagine that much
air
> coming out of a heat duct in my ceiling.
>
>
Putting a 85,000 btu furnace in a 16x24 shop would not be a proper install!
A 30,000 btu would be over kill, unless the walls were made of screen.
Greg
"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:tWxdd.6201$EZ.604@okepread07...
> >
> The cousin's was an updraft and he added a 2-direction plenum (no other
> ducts) to the top that spreads the heat around his 1,400 sq ft shop. They
> do take up a little space. My current garage shop is a little too tight
to
> give up the space. I just move the cars out and get the heaters going.
>
> Next shop - furnace again.
>
>
I have a ceiling hung, horizontal, residential style gas furnace in my
garage, with central air too.
Does not take up any floor space, nice relatively quiet heating.
Only thing better would be radiant floor heat!
Greg
Well, someone who's willing could certainly diffuse the air duct. You're
exaggerating the problem anyway, if my two workshop ducts are any example.
As to capacity "overkill," in a space not constantly heated you favor a
high-capacity unit, because you can heat for the human quickly, and not be
so concerned about the loss through the walls. It will be thermostatically
controlled, as well, I would say. If constantly heating, you don't need the
quick gain, because you're mostly there.
"mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > Not if installed properly.
> > I see alot of shops in the area use either forced air or ceiling hung
unit
> > heaters. Both blow air around. Neither are a problem.
> > Greg
>
> I wasn't sure of my ability to install it 'properly' then. Plus, it
required
> cutting holes in my roof for a chimney pipe. It's an 85,000 btu furnace,
> and like I said I have a 16x24 shop. Seemed like overkill, but it
> definitely would have been FAST. I also have a furnace blower (squirrel
> cage) on a stand that I use for quick ventilation of paint fumes and what
> not, and I know it's pretty powerful. I just couldn't imagine that much
air
> coming out of a heat duct in my ceiling.
>
>
Look into the use of a pellet stove, it is efficient and self feeding. It
does use a little electricity but burns very clean with about no emmisions.
Some have powered exhausts, some have no venting. can heat up to 2500 sq
feet.
"Richard J Petruso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am looking to put heat in my garage and really don't have the room in my
>electrical panel to take up a slot for an electric heater, not to mention
>the cost to run one, and really don't want to go through the hassle of
>digging up the yard , not to mention the expense of running a gas line , to
>install a gas heater. I was wondering anyone's opinion on installing a wood
>burning stove. Although I guess a wood burning stove would use electricity
>also, but would probably be less expensive to run. Any suggestions?
> Thank You
> Rich Petruso
>
Other alternatives are:
1) Propane catalytic heater: Advantage - no open flame and good radiant
heat. Disadvantage - pretty darned expensive to run.
2) Kerosene heater (standard flame or "jet engine" type): Advantage - fuel
is more economical than propane. A 20,000 to 24,000 btu heater will do a
good job in 500-700 square foot garage. Disadvantage - Open flame and all
the cautions that go with it.
3) Ceramic Heater(s). Advantage - Lower current draw than the open coil
space heaters. Fairly economic to run. Disadvantage - Fairly limited in
output but do put out a surprising amout of heat.
I have been using a combination of 2 and 3 for years. On non-frigid days I
can usually fire up the kero heater and our small ceramic cube to get the
630 sq ft garage to comfort level and turn off the kerosene heater. Frigid
days (20 degrees or below and wind). I run both. Obviously the open flame
requires some precautions.
- No gasoline in the garage - including the cars (they go outside)
- Heater is separated from the woodworking by about a stall width
- Keep the heater clean
- Turn the heater off several minutes before you open any solvent or
flammable finish cans.
- Keep the sawdust cleaned up and away from the heater.
If you have no heat source you might give gas more thought. You can often
pick up a recycled residential force air furnace for very little money
($25-$100). If you space it off of the floor a foot or two you can overcome
a lot of the flame concerns. A residential furnace will heat up a 600 - 800
square foot garage space in minutes. A cousin just did this and it is
great!
>>I am looking to put heat in my garage and really don't have the room in my
>>electrical panel to take up a slot for an electric heater, not to mention
>>the cost to run one, and really don't want to go through the hassle of
>>digging up the yard , not to mention the expense of running a gas line ,
>>to install a gas heater. I was wondering anyone's opinion on installing a
>>wood burning stove. Although I guess a wood burning stove would use
>>electricity also, but would probably be less expensive to run. Any
>>suggestions?
>> Thank You
>> Rich Petruso
>>
>
Rich, I heat mine with propane. Direct vent, works with no power, just has
a tank out back. My shop is about 16x24. I thought about going the wood
route, but then called my insurance company, and they wouldn't insure the
garage if it had wood heat for some reason. My house is OK, but not the
shop. Go figure. Maybe they assume fumes, sawdust etc. Anyway, I'd check
with your insurance company before you go thru the expense of a wood stove.
If it burns to the ground, you might get nothing. On the plus side, you have
a place to put mistakes.
Easy to figure.
>
> Start wood stove burning. Load it up so it lasts the day while you work.
>
> OK, done work, stove about out. Pull car into garage. Tank has slight
> leak. Wood stove has hot embers. B O O O O M ! ! ! !
>
> Insurance company out a lot of money.
I suppose....they are separate rooms, with an insulated wall and door
between them, but....open flame is bad. Especially if you do anything with
lacquer. At least with the propane, I can warm it up nice, then turn off
the gas and do my spraying.
RonB,
Where did your cousin pick up the furnace? Is there any consistent resource
for this type of thing?
Sounds like a great option.
Thanks
Rob
"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:F6ddd.5898$EZ.5577@okepread07...
> Other alternatives are:
>
> 1) Propane catalytic heater: Advantage - no open flame and good radiant
> heat. Disadvantage - pretty darned expensive to run.
>
> 2) Kerosene heater (standard flame or "jet engine" type): Advantage -
> fuel is more economical than propane. A 20,000 to 24,000 btu heater will
> do a good job in 500-700 square foot garage. Disadvantage - Open flame
> and all the cautions that go with it.
>
> 3) Ceramic Heater(s). Advantage - Lower current draw than the open coil
> space heaters. Fairly economic to run. Disadvantage - Fairly limited in
> output but do put out a surprising amout of heat.
>
> I have been using a combination of 2 and 3 for years. On non-frigid days
> I can usually fire up the kero heater and our small ceramic cube to get
> the 630 sq ft garage to comfort level and turn off the kerosene heater.
> Frigid days (20 degrees or below and wind). I run both. Obviously the
> open flame requires some precautions.
>
> - No gasoline in the garage - including the cars (they go outside)
> - Heater is separated from the woodworking by about a stall width
> - Keep the heater clean
> - Turn the heater off several minutes before you open any solvent or
> flammable finish cans.
> - Keep the sawdust cleaned up and away from the heater.
>
> If you have no heat source you might give gas more thought. You can often
> pick up a recycled residential force air furnace for very little money
> ($25-$100). If you space it off of the floor a foot or two you can
> overcome a lot of the flame concerns. A residential furnace will heat up
> a 600 - 800 square foot garage space in minutes. A cousin just did this
> and it is great!
>
"fsteddie" <epearlatprexardotcom> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> you make mistake using wood stove you go BOOOOOM..
>
Makes you wonder how woodworking shops have been heated for hundreds and
hundreds of years with wood doesn't it? On second thought, I'm sure you've
never wondered.
Frank
> Not if installed properly.
> I see alot of shops in the area use either forced air or ceiling hung unit
> heaters. Both blow air around. Neither are a problem.
> Greg
I wasn't sure of my ability to install it 'properly' then. Plus, it required
cutting holes in my roof for a chimney pipe. It's an 85,000 btu furnace,
and like I said I have a 16x24 shop. Seemed like overkill, but it
definitely would have been FAST. I also have a furnace blower (squirrel
cage) on a stand that I use for quick ventilation of paint fumes and what
not, and I know it's pretty powerful. I just couldn't imagine that much air
coming out of a heat duct in my ceiling.
On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 10:37:06 -0500, "Richard J Petruso"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I am looking to put heat in my garage and really don't have the room in my
>electrical panel to take up a slot for an electric heater, not to mention
>the cost to run one, and really don't want to go through the hassle of
>digging up the yard , not to mention the expense of running a gas line , to
>install a gas heater. I was wondering anyone's opinion on installing a wood
>burning stove. Although I guess a wood burning stove would use electricity
>also, but would probably be less expensive to run. Any suggestions?
>Thank You
>Rich Petruso
>
I did heat my shop with a wood stove at first...BUT it just scared me
to no end ... always afraid to leave the shop at night with a fire
still going.... Only good thing I recall about using it was that it
made quick work of scrap hardwood ...
Went out and purchased a propane heater about 20 years ago and run if
off of a couple of 100 pound tanks ...use one tank, keep one full tank
in reserve... worked out pretty well...as long as I kept a spare tank
full. Running a line (10 foot) only involved drilling a hole in the
shops wall ....no big deal... tanks are kept outside naturally.
BUT Propane is NOT cheap ... I have a total electric home
and ELECTRIC is not cheap either... lol
Bob Griffiths
"mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I thought about going the wood route, but then called my insurance
> company, and they wouldn't insure the garage if it had wood heat for some
> reason. My house is OK, but not the shop. Go figure.
Easy to figure.
Start wood stove burning. Load it up so it lasts the day while you work.
OK, done work, stove about out. Pull car into garage. Tank has slight
leak. Wood stove has hot embers. B O O O O M ! ! ! !
Insurance company out a lot of money.
"Richard J Petruso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
.
> I was wondering anyone's opinion on installing a wood burning stove.
> Although I guess a wood burning stove would use electricity also, but
> would probably be less expensive to run. Any suggestions?
> Thank You
> Rich Petruso
Solid fuel stoves in an attached garage are against the national fire code.
You are probably OK with detached, but check.
Wood burning stoves may or may not use electricity. Mine does not.
"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> 3) Ceramic Heater(s). Advantage - Lower current draw than the open coil
> space heaters. Fairly economic to run.
I don't understand this. Watts is watts and electric heat is 100%
efficient. What makes the ceramic heaters allegedly better than an open
coil types? What am I missing?
I too am interested on where he picked up the furnace. My garage does have
gas already (+H2O) so I am interested in my best options.
"77clearly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> RonB,
>
> Where did your cousin pick up the furnace? Is there any consistent
resource
> for this type of thing?
> Sounds like a great option.
>
> Thanks
> Rob
>
> "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:F6ddd.5898$EZ.5577@okepread07...
> > Other alternatives are:
> >
> > 1) Propane catalytic heater: Advantage - no open flame and good radiant
> > heat. Disadvantage - pretty darned expensive to run.
> >
> > 2) Kerosene heater (standard flame or "jet engine" type): Advantage -
> > fuel is more economical than propane. A 20,000 to 24,000 btu heater
will
> > do a good job in 500-700 square foot garage. Disadvantage - Open flame
> > and all the cautions that go with it.
> >
> > 3) Ceramic Heater(s). Advantage - Lower current draw than the open coil
> > space heaters. Fairly economic to run. Disadvantage - Fairly limited
in
> > output but do put out a surprising amout of heat.
> >
> > I have been using a combination of 2 and 3 for years. On non-frigid
days
> > I can usually fire up the kero heater and our small ceramic cube to get
> > the 630 sq ft garage to comfort level and turn off the kerosene heater.
> > Frigid days (20 degrees or below and wind). I run both. Obviously the
> > open flame requires some precautions.
> >
> > - No gasoline in the garage - including the cars (they go outside)
> > - Heater is separated from the woodworking by about a stall width
> > - Keep the heater clean
> > - Turn the heater off several minutes before you open any solvent or
> > flammable finish cans.
> > - Keep the sawdust cleaned up and away from the heater.
> >
> > If you have no heat source you might give gas more thought. You can
often
> > pick up a recycled residential force air furnace for very little money
> > ($25-$100). If you space it off of the floor a foot or two you can
> > overcome a lot of the flame concerns. A residential furnace will heat
up
> > a 600 - 800 square foot garage space in minutes. A cousin just did this
> > and it is great!
> >
>
>
Infrared lamp. A wood burning stove will work well, but leaving a
burning stove unattended is unwise.
On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 10:37:06 -0500, "Richard J Petruso"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I am looking to put heat in my garage and really don't have the room in my
>electrical panel to take up a slot for an electric heater, not to mention
>the cost to run one, and really don't want to go through the hassle of
>digging up the yard , not to mention the expense of running a gas line , to
>install a gas heater. I was wondering anyone's opinion on installing a wood
>burning stove. Although I guess a wood burning stove would use electricity
>also, but would probably be less expensive to run. Any suggestions?
>Thank You
>Rich Petruso
>
Wow - Quite a string. Answers to two questions:
> I don't understand this. Watts is watts and electric heat is 100%
> efficient. What makes the ceramic heaters allegedly better than an open
> coil types? What am I missing?
Watts may be watts but the ceramic cube or console heaters put out a lot of
heat with low consumption. They also have a small blower that pushes air
through the console. Also, they do not have the glowing coils that can, in
themselves, cause a fire concern. The same 10" cube I use to supplement my
kerosene heater is also used in our 32' 5th wheel. Once the furnace brings
trailer temp up the cube can handle most heating needs. Our 13 year old
cube is small compared to the ones available now.
> Where did your cousin..............
Check with building material salvage operations, heating contractors, or the
classifieds for a used furnace. The one my cousin used became undersized
for a residential remodel/add-on. About 25 years ago I also got one from a
friend who had to up-size because of a remodel and he sold his old one for
$25. He even had his heat contractor inspect the firebox before he sold it.
In a garage you should check with local code or the fire department. They
will likely want you to raise it off of the floor a foot or two to get the
flame as high has possible (gasoline fumes tend to settle). We both had
simple angle & pipe stands made to elevate them. Mine was a down-draft
furnace and it was used in a very small shop. I just let it blow out the
bottom onto the floor (when the blower came on you could actually hear the
windows rattle a little in the 220 sq ft building. It could take the
temperature from 30 degrees to 65 in a matter of 10-15 minutes).
The cousin's was an updraft and he added a 2-direction plenum (no other
ducts) to the top that spreads the heat around his 1,400 sq ft shop. They
do take up a little space. My current garage shop is a little too tight to
give up the space. I just move the cars out and get the heaters going.
Next shop - furnace again.
"77clearly" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> RonB,
>
> Where did your cousin pick up the furnace? Is there any consistent
> resource for this type of thing?
> Sounds like a great option.
>
> Thanks
> Rob
Used furnaces are all over the place. I have a couple horizontal propane
furnaces that I am trying to get rid of. They both worked when they came
out, but I was figuring on one for working, and one for parts. I never did
hook them up, because I figured forced hot air would be a sawdust problem.
They're still upstairs over my shop sitting there. Any takers? Saratoga
NY area....
"Frank Ketchum" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Makes you wonder how woodworking shops have been heated for hundreds and
> hundreds of years with wood doesn't it? On second thought, I'm sure
> you've never wondered.
>
> Frank
But in most shops, they did not park a pickup truck loaded with 30 gallons
of gas in the tank, maybe a 5 gallon tank for the chainsaws or snowmobile in
the back.
Interesting you should bring it up. It has been 50 years since we had a
fire in our house from gasoline brought into the garage. Less than a gallon
that my brother poured out of an outboard motor tank. It has been a long
time but I can still recall the mess it made.