I've just downloaded the user manual for the Powermatic 8" jointer.
Much better value than the inscrutable Taiwanese manual that came with
my 8" copy of this fine machine.
I read with interest the sharpening technique in this manual and they
said to use a hard Arkansas stone. I can't find such a stone at my
local woodie shop, and wondered if it went by another name.
I then wondered if the "scary sharp" technique could be used for this
purpose. The wet-n-dry could be left off the glass that rubbed on the
table, and the blades would be the only things that cop a sharpen.
If this is a viable way, what grit would folks use to touch up the
blades every week of use, or so?
Dunne E. Dawe wrote:
>I've just downloaded the user manual for the Powermatic 8" jointer.
>Much better value than the inscrutable Taiwanese manual that came with
>my 8" copy of this fine machine.
>I read with interest the sharpening technique in this manual and they
>said to use a hard Arkansas stone. I can't find such a stone at my
>local woodie shop, and wondered if it went by another name.
>I then wondered if the "scary sharp" technique could be used for this
>purpose. The wet-n-dry could be left off the glass that rubbed on the
>table, and the blades would be the only things that cop a sharpen.
>If this is a viable way, what grit would folks use to touch up the
>blades every week of use, or so?
>
>
You might try a sporting goods shop. KA-BAR supplies both soft and hard
arkansas stones for knife sharpening. I was given a KA-BAR kit that
contains both stones and honing oil. I don't know how old this kit is,
but the instructions say 'Rev. 79'. I checked at the KA-BAR site and
don't see the kit there, but they do sell the stones separately. You can
check for local dealers by inserting a zip code or go to a catalog site.
See the stones under 'Products' - 'Accessories', and the dealers/catalog
under 'Where to Buy'.
https://www.kabar.com/
--
Bill
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 13:43:30 GMT, Bill Schnakenberg
<[email protected]> posted:
>Dunne E. Dawe wrote:
>
>>I've just downloaded the user manual for the Powermatic 8" jointer.
>>Much better value than the inscrutable Taiwanese manual that came with
>>my 8" copy of this fine machine.
>>I read with interest the sharpening technique in this manual and they
>>said to use a hard Arkansas stone. I can't find such a stone at my
>>local woodie shop, and wondered if it went by another name.
>>I then wondered if the "scary sharp" technique could be used for this
>>purpose. The wet-n-dry could be left off the glass that rubbed on the
>>table, and the blades would be the only things that cop a sharpen.
>>If this is a viable way, what grit would folks use to touch up the
>>blades every week of use, or so?
>>
>>
>You might try a sporting goods shop. KA-BAR supplies both soft and hard
>arkansas stones for knife sharpening. I was given a KA-BAR kit that
>contains both stones and honing oil. I don't know how old this kit is,
>but the instructions say 'Rev. 79'. I checked at the KA-BAR site and
>don't see the kit there, but they do sell the stones separately. You can
>check for local dealers by inserting a zip code or go to a catalog site.
>See the stones under 'Products' - 'Accessories', and the dealers/catalog
>under 'Where to Buy'.
>https://www.kabar.com/
Thanks Bill.
I tried some of the links but could not get the products one to work.
Anyways, I'm in Australia and it looks like stones big and flat to
sharpen jointer knives are quite expensive, so unless someone gives me
a good reason not to try the scary sharp method, I will give that a
try. I think I've got a bunch of 1200 grit wet-and-dry which I hope
will be suitable.
Yes, it eliminates the back clearance. The only time I would use the
technique is when the knives are initially set. It would ensure that they
are all at exactly the same height. The small land that this would generate
would not be noticeable performance wise but I wouldn't do it on a regular
basis, it would just accelerate the need for sharpening. Zero clearance will
make it act like a dull cutter.
"Dunne E. Dawe" <[email protected]> wrote in message > Thanks Dave
> I always thought this method reduced the clearance behind the edge,
> but I suppose this doesn't matter much if you are only taking off a
> tiny amount to restore the edge. Eventually I guess you are going to
> have to restore the proper bevel. I wonder what the symptoms are when
> you have insufficient clearance and need a regrind.
>
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 13:59:55 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
posted:
>go to a hardware store and get a 6" stone; it doesn't HAVE
>to be specifically an Arkansas stone. I use a double sided
>oil stone on my Powermatic. nothing expensive or exotic.
>It works great if for no other reason that it makes the
>blades totally parallel to the tables even if you didn't
>lock them into the head absolutely straight (course you have
>to get it within a few thousandths; you won't be taking much
>off with the stone).
Thanks Dave
I always thought this method reduced the clearance behind the edge,
but I suppose this doesn't matter much if you are only taking off a
tiny amount to restore the edge. Eventually I guess you are going to
have to restore the proper bevel. I wonder what the symptoms are when
you have insufficient clearance and need a regrind.
>Dunne E. Dawe wrote:
>
>> I've just downloaded the user manual for the Powermatic 8" jointer.
>> Much better value than the inscrutable Taiwanese manual that came with
>> my 8" copy of this fine machine.
>> I read with interest the sharpening technique in this manual and they
>> said to use a hard Arkansas stone. I can't find such a stone at my
>> local woodie shop, and wondered if it went by another name.
>> I then wondered if the "scary sharp" technique could be used for this
>> purpose. The wet-n-dry could be left off the glass that rubbed on the
>> table, and the blades would be the only things that cop a sharpen.
>> If this is a viable way, what grit would folks use to touch up the
>> blades every week of use, or so?
Most likely a big nick will be the determinining factor in
having to regrind rather than hone. As you said, the honing
should be removing only a TINY bit of the edge.
dave
Dunne E. Dawe wrote:
> On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 13:59:55 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
> posted:
>
>
>>go to a hardware store and get a 6" stone; it doesn't HAVE
>>to be specifically an Arkansas stone. I use a double sided
>>oil stone on my Powermatic. nothing expensive or exotic.
>>It works great if for no other reason that it makes the
>>blades totally parallel to the tables even if you didn't
>>lock them into the head absolutely straight (course you have
>>to get it within a few thousandths; you won't be taking much
>>off with the stone).
>
>
> Thanks Dave
> I always thought this method reduced the clearance behind the edge,
> but I suppose this doesn't matter much if you are only taking off a
> tiny amount to restore the edge. Eventually I guess you are going to
> have to restore the proper bevel. I wonder what the symptoms are when
> you have insufficient clearance and need a regrind.
>
>
>
>
>>Dunne E. Dawe wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I've just downloaded the user manual for the Powermatic 8" jointer.
>>>Much better value than the inscrutable Taiwanese manual that came with
>>>my 8" copy of this fine machine.
>>>I read with interest the sharpening technique in this manual and they
>>>said to use a hard Arkansas stone. I can't find such a stone at my
>>>local woodie shop, and wondered if it went by another name.
>>>I then wondered if the "scary sharp" technique could be used for this
>>>purpose. The wet-n-dry could be left off the glass that rubbed on the
>>>table, and the blades would be the only things that cop a sharpen.
>>>If this is a viable way, what grit would folks use to touch up the
>>>blades every week of use, or so?
>
>
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 22:13:56 +0800, Dunne E. Dawe <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 13:59:55 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]>
>posted:
>
>>go to a hardware store and get a 6" stone; it doesn't HAVE
>>to be specifically an Arkansas stone. I use a double sided
>>oil stone on my Powermatic. nothing expensive or exotic.
>>It works great if for no other reason that it makes the
>>blades totally parallel to the tables even if you didn't
>>lock them into the head absolutely straight (course you have
>>to get it within a few thousandths; you won't be taking much
>>off with the stone).
>
>Thanks Dave
>I always thought this method reduced the clearance behind the edge,
>but I suppose this doesn't matter much if you are only taking off a
>tiny amount to restore the edge. Eventually I guess you are going to
>have to restore the proper bevel. I wonder what the symptoms are when
>you have insufficient clearance and need a regrind.
>
it stops cutting.
I prefer to send them to a commercial sharpening service. I own a printing
company and the knifes we use to cut paper have to be sharp enough to shave
with. I can get eh same edge by sending my planer and jointer knifes to
them. Call and ask if they sharpen paper cutter knifes. then ask is they can
put the same edge on your wood working knifes. Keep 2 sets, one to have out
being sharpened and one in the machine. I spend enough time sharpening
chisels and gouges. I need more time to make shavings. This is the way.
--
Dennis W. Ewing Sr
210/653-1276
[email protected]
delete an r to reply
"Dunne E. Dawe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've just downloaded the user manual for the Powermatic 8" jointer.
> Much better value than the inscrutable Taiwanese manual that came with
> my 8" copy of this fine machine.
> I read with interest the sharpening technique in this manual and they
> said to use a hard Arkansas stone. I can't find such a stone at my
> local woodie shop, and wondered if it went by another name.
> I then wondered if the "scary sharp" technique could be used for this
> purpose. The wet-n-dry could be left off the glass that rubbed on the
> table, and the blades would be the only things that cop a sharpen.
> If this is a viable way, what grit would folks use to touch up the
> blades every week of use, or so?
On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 22:09:46 +0800, Dunne E. Dawe <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Thu, 03 Jun 2004 13:43:30 GMT, Bill Schnakenberg
><[email protected]> posted:
>
>>Dunne E. Dawe wrote:
>>
>>>I've just downloaded the user manual for the Powermatic 8" jointer.
>>>Much better value than the inscrutable Taiwanese manual that came with
>>>my 8" copy of this fine machine.
>>>I read with interest the sharpening technique in this manual and they
>>>said to use a hard Arkansas stone. I can't find such a stone at my
>>>local woodie shop, and wondered if it went by another name.
>>>I then wondered if the "scary sharp" technique could be used for this
>>>purpose. The wet-n-dry could be left off the glass that rubbed on the
>>>table, and the blades would be the only things that cop a sharpen.
>>>If this is a viable way, what grit would folks use to touch up the
>>>blades every week of use, or so?
>>>
>>>
>>You might try a sporting goods shop. KA-BAR supplies both soft and hard
>>arkansas stones for knife sharpening. I was given a KA-BAR kit that
>>contains both stones and honing oil. I don't know how old this kit is,
>>but the instructions say 'Rev. 79'. I checked at the KA-BAR site and
>>don't see the kit there, but they do sell the stones separately. You can
>>check for local dealers by inserting a zip code or go to a catalog site.
>>See the stones under 'Products' - 'Accessories', and the dealers/catalog
>>under 'Where to Buy'.
>>https://www.kabar.com/
>
>Thanks Bill.
>I tried some of the links but could not get the products one to work.
>Anyways, I'm in Australia and it looks like stones big and flat to
>sharpen jointer knives are quite expensive, so unless someone gives me
>a good reason not to try the scary sharp method, I will give that a
>try. I think I've got a bunch of 1200 grit wet-and-dry which I hope
>will be suitable.
if you are thinking of using scary sharp to hone the blades out of the
jointer, yes, absolutely. it works great, as long as your jig prevents
the blade from flexing.
if you are considering it for the bit of applying an abrasive to the
blades while the cutterhead is spinning (which is what it looks like
from your OP) I'd think it wouldn't work too well. the paper would
likely tear and the possibility of glass breakage is too great.
if you are thinking of a honing jig that touches up each blade one at
a time, it should be doable- but I think I'd try to get a granite
countertop cutoff instead of glass.
go to a hardware store and get a 6" stone; it doesn't HAVE
to be specifically an Arkansas stone. I use a double sided
oil stone on my Powermatic. nothing expensive or exotic.
It works great if for no other reason that it makes the
blades totally parallel to the tables even if you didn't
lock them into the head absolutely straight (course you have
to get it within a few thousandths; you won't be taking much
off with the stone).
dave
Dunne E. Dawe wrote:
> I've just downloaded the user manual for the Powermatic 8" jointer.
> Much better value than the inscrutable Taiwanese manual that came with
> my 8" copy of this fine machine.
> I read with interest the sharpening technique in this manual and they
> said to use a hard Arkansas stone. I can't find such a stone at my
> local woodie shop, and wondered if it went by another name.
> I then wondered if the "scary sharp" technique could be used for this
> purpose. The wet-n-dry could be left off the glass that rubbed on the
> table, and the blades would be the only things that cop a sharpen.
> If this is a viable way, what grit would folks use to touch up the
> blades every week of use, or so?