Having done a number of dovetails by hand, I felt that I am getting better
with each attempt. Now, I am working on a small (2-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 2") box,
and I had a leftover piece of Walnut that had enough material for the job.
My problem is: seeing the lines that I mark to make the saw cuts and chisel
trim down to markings. I have made marking knife cuts, .5mm pencil marks,
and combinations of the two. I have squinted by overhead flourescent
lighting, propped up a portable flourecent fixture in precarious positions
nearby, etc.
The work that I have completed is not up to the standard that I would be
proud of, and I attribute this to the difficulty in seeing where I am at.
Is there some marking method for dark colored woods that I have overlooked?
Please don't suggest chalk, as that is wider than some of the pins. ;-)
Thanks,
Godzilla
"Jay" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Support your local Monkee...
>
> fine point White-out pens:
>
> http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do?level=SK&id=256014
I'm glad to see they finally have decided to make a non shake/non squeeze
model. I'm there! Thanks.
SH - in the 21st century
For dark wood, use a marking knife, then run a white pencil over the scribed
line - just the opposite of light wood, where you can use a regular pencil to
highlight the knife line.
JeffB
Godzilla wrote:
> My problem is: seeing the lines that I mark to make the saw cuts and chisel
> trim down to markings. I have made marking knife cuts, .5mm pencil marks,
> and combinations of the two. I have squinted by overhead flourescent
> lighting, propped up a portable flourecent fixture in precarious positions
> nearby, etc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Godzilla
>
>
Godzilla <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Having done a number of dovetails by hand, I felt that I am getting better
> with each attempt. Now, I am working on a small (2-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 2") box,
> and I had a leftover piece of Walnut that had enough material for the job.
>
> My problem is: seeing the lines that I mark to make the saw cuts and chisel
> trim down to markings. I have made marking knife cuts, .5mm pencil marks,
> and combinations of the two. I have squinted by overhead flourescent
> lighting, propped up a portable flourecent fixture in precarious positions
> nearby, etc.
>
> The work that I have completed is not up to the standard that I would be
> proud of, and I attribute this to the difficulty in seeing where I am at.
> Is there some marking method for dark colored woods that I have overlooked?
> Please don't suggest chalk, as that is wider than some of the pins. ;-)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Godzilla
Support your local Monkee...
fine point White-out pens:
http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do?level=SK&id=256014
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
> Having done a number of dovetails by hand, I felt that I am getting better
> with each attempt. Now, I am working on a small (2-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 2") box,
> and I had a leftover piece of Walnut that had enough material for the job.
>
> My problem is: seeing the lines that I mark to make the saw cuts and chisel
> trim down to markings. I have made marking knife cuts, .5mm pencil marks,
> and combinations of the two. I have squinted by overhead flourescent
> lighting, propped up a portable flourecent fixture in precarious positions
> nearby, etc.
>
> The work that I have completed is not up to the standard that I would be
> proud of, and I attribute this to the difficulty in seeing where I am at.
> Is there some marking method for dark colored woods that I have overlooked?
> Please don't suggest chalk, as that is wider than some of the pins. ;-)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Godzilla
Check your local art supply store or teacher's center. Look for white or
yellow colored pencils. Or just swipe them from the kid's collection
when they're not looking.
I've also used garment marking chalk- super fine edge, but waxy.
Vic
On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 08:54:53 -0500, Godzilla <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Is there some marking method for dark colored woods that I have overlooked?
>Please don't suggest chalk, as that is wider than some of the pins. ;-)
White or yellow colored pencils, crayons, or china markers, OVER the
marking knives' mark. The knife provides the precision, the white or
yellow provides the visibility.
I frequently use lumber crayons to denote faces, top/bottom, jointer
or planer feed direction, even on light woods.
Barry
Sharpie puts out "Metallic" fine point permanent marker. . .silver in color.
I use it around the shop for marking dark materials like the inside of
sanding cylinders. It is permanent so be careful to mark just the cut side.
It might be worth a try.
--
Ed. O.
My woodworking projects at:
http://www.amiigas.com
Make you marks with the striking knife then go over the wood with a piece of
light chalk. The cuts should show up as dark lines.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Godzilla" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Having done a number of dovetails by hand, I felt that I am getting better
> with each attempt. Now, I am working on a small (2-1/2" x 2-1/2" x 2")
box,
> and I had a leftover piece of Walnut that had enough material for the job.
>
> My problem is: seeing the lines that I mark to make the saw cuts and
chisel
> trim down to markings. I have made marking knife cuts, .5mm pencil marks,
> and combinations of the two. I have squinted by overhead flourescent
> lighting, propped up a portable flourecent fixture in precarious positions
> nearby, etc.
>
> The work that I have completed is not up to the standard that I would be
> proud of, and I attribute this to the difficulty in seeing where I am at.
> Is there some marking method for dark colored woods that I have
overlooked?
> Please don't suggest chalk, as that is wider than some of the pins. ;-)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Godzilla
>
>