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I built a jig for my plunge router to do mortises. Found the
design in FWW.
<br>My problem is the router rides on a 3/4" piece of plywood and the work
piece clamps below it. So in order to reach the work piece and then
the depth of the mortise I have to pull the router bit out of the collett
further than I usually do in other applications.
<br>How much of the shank needs to be in the collett? I don't want
the bit to wobble, or come out and tear up the work, the jig or me.
<p>Thanks for advise.
<p>Bruce</html>
Somewhere I read a minimum of 1". I use a router jig where the workpiece
clamps even with the router. It is very simple and works well. You might
try another type of jig. BTW, I also own a Powermatic mortiser and since I
tried the router mortising jig, the Powermatic doesn't get near as much use.
Preston
"Bruce Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
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I built a jig for my plunge router to do mortises. Found the design in
FWW.
My problem is the router rides on a 3/4" piece of plywood and the work piece
clamps below it. So in order to reach the work piece and then the depth of
the mortise I have to pull the router bit out of the collett further than I
usually do in other applications.
How much of the shank needs to be in the collett? I don't want the bit to
wobble, or come out and tear up the work, the jig or me.
Thanks for advise.
Bruce
There has been a lot of conversation regarding this in the past. A search of
this group should give a several different perspectives. I try to keep at
minimum 2/3 of the shank in the collet for several of my jigs. I have
several jigs of this nature so over time I have bought proper bit length to
match the intended job and recommend doing the same.
EJ