I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light
checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle.
I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light
field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to
alternate with the hard maple in the field.
The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being
distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern
On Dec 8, 8:05=A0pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 17:10:15 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >> I _do_ bleach my cutting board every time I use it for meat, though.
>
> >You can just wash it with warm water and soap, lots of rinsing and if
> >worried after that wipe it with diluted vinegar. Easier on the wood
> >and accepted/suggested practice by food scientest who have published
> >on this subject.
>
> What part of "plastic cutting boards" did you miss? =A0;)
>
> P.S: How's Godwin?
>
> --
> Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
> are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
> tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the
> existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of
> the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear.
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 -- Thomas Jefferson
Plastic cutting boards are worse than wood.
Here is a clip from the Boos website that mentions this FACT and also
clarifiys that food service industry requires NSF certification and
the list of wood cutting surface items certified happen to ONLY BE
MAPLE.
I can probably find a link to the study the reference if needed to
silence the naves.
Clip: If you care to read rather than live in your ignorance.
For decades the government was tough on wood products and urged the
food service industry to use plastic rather than wood cutting surfaces
in the name of food safety, and for a time it was believed that
plastic would replace wood. Dr. Dean Cliver, a PHD researcher at the
University of Wisconsin in the 1990s, proved that wood was safer than
plastic for food preparation, and the properties that first made
plastic attractive motivated the return to wood as the most desirable
cutting surface. Hard Maple remains the preferred hardwood for butcher
blocks because it is resilient, durable, sanitary, knife-friendly,
easily cleaned, and inhibits bacteria growth. JB&C also uses other
hardwood species like Appalachian red oak, American cherry and
American walnut in addition to North American hard rock maple.
As the Food Service industry in the USA follows strict guidelines and
regulations, JB&C metal and wood products can be found listed with the
National Sanitation Foundation (NSF), the leader in sanitation
agencies for approving equipment to be installed in foodservice and
supermarket operations. The products must bear the NSF seal of
approval to be accepted by the industry.
On Dec 5, 9:21=A0am, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:
> I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light
> checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle.
>
> I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light
> field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to
> alternate with the hard maple in the field.
>
> The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being
> distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern
Things to consider:
1. Disimilar woods expand/contract at different rates and can easily
destroy this type of glue up. I have seen it break edge laminated
table tops.
2. Cutting boards need to use nonpours woods, thus the use of Hard
Maple as the standard? How porous or not is Purple Heart?
3. Some woods can have toxic and allergic properties. Make sure you
aren't choosing one of those woods.
On Mon, 05 Dec 2011 12:21:16 -0500, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:
>I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light
>checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle.
>
>I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light
>field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to
>alternate with the hard maple in the field.
>
>The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being
>distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern
I hear Hemlock works well for such applications. Better check it out
though.
On Monday, December 5, 2011 11:46:23 PM UTC-5, blueman wrote:
> "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> writes:
> > On Dec 5, 9:21=A0am, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light
> >> checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle.
> >>
> >> I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light
> >> field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to
> >> alternate with the hard maple in the field.
> >>
> >> The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being
> >> distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern
> >
> > Things to consider:
> > 1. Disimilar woods expand/contract at different rates and can easily
> > destroy this type of glue up. I have seen it break edge laminated
> > table tops.
> > 2. Cutting boards need to use nonpours woods, thus the use of Hard
> > Maple as the standard? How porous or not is Purple Heart?
> > 3. Some woods can have toxic and allergic properties. Make sure you
> > aren't choosing one of those woods.
>=20
> Actually, Purple Heart was suggested and used in a Cutting Board on the
> Wood Wisperer's web site - Now perhaps he didn't do the research... but
> he seemes to be otherwise relatively competent...
>=20
> I might consider alternatively using Walnut for my pattern pieces...
I just finished the maple and purpleheart cutting board from the WW site. =
It looks great, but what a job. One thing I can tell you when you make thi=
s (or any other end grain board) is get those cuts as accurate as possible.=
I didn't, because I thought I could run the final thing through the plane=
r. Luckily I found out how disastrous that would have been before I did i=
t. I tried the belt sander but soon realized what an amazingly long practi=
ce that was going to be. So I ended up making a 2.5" frame around it from =
MDF and bought 2 pieces of angle iron for tracks to sit on top and used my =
router and a 3/4" straight bit to get the bloody thing level. This worked =
great, but a lot of it could have been avoided if I had just made very accu=
rate cuts.
Jim
On 12/5/2011 11:21 AM, blueman wrote:
> I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light
> checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle.
>
> I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light
> field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to
> alternate with the hard maple in the field.
>
> The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being
> distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern
Keep in mind that when you sand the surface you will get bleeding from
the dark to light colors...
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 12/5/2011 11:21 AM, blueman wrote:
>> I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a
>> light checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually
>> words) in the middle.
>>
>> I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple
>> for the light field but I would like to have *another*
>> good choice of light wood to alternate with the hard maple
>> in the field.
>>
>> The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while
>> also being distinctly lighter than the purple heart
>> pattern
>
> Keep in mind that when you sand the surface you will get
> bleeding from the dark to light colors...
>
You must also keep in mind that if actually used as a cutting
board, you should be able to eat off of it without getting
sick. I've never seen purpleheart used and don't know about
it's properties but I would definitely check into it before
using it.
From a wikipedia article... "Exposure to the dust generated by
cutting and sanding purpleheart can cause iritation and
nausea, possibly due to the presence of dalbergione
(neoflavonoid) compounds in the wood. This also makes
purpleheart wood unsuitable to most people for use in
jewelry."
Not sure I would want to eat off of that...
Be sure you have a helleva belt sander, it will definitely get
a workout before you're through, sanding end grain is a bitch.
Larry
Jack <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> I think you all got it wrong. Live in a pure environment and you soon
> need to live in a bubble. Everyone I know has survived eating food cut
> on both wood and plastic cutting boards. Quit wringing your hands and
> eat your pound of dirt...
Yep. Clean is good enough. Sterile is so, well, sterile ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I _do_ bleach my cutting board every time I use it for meat, though.
I use usually a plastic cutting board or a ceramic dish for meat. It gets
immediately brushed clean with soap and hot water. Bleach just gives PCBs
<grin>.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On 12/5/2011 11:21 AM, blueman wrote:
> I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light
> checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle.
>
> I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light
> field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to
> alternate with the hard maple in the field.
>
> The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being
> distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern
Standard woods for top quality cutting boards and butcher blocks, (DAGS
"John Boos") are hard maple, cherry, and walnut.
Stick with one of those and you can't go wrong.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 17:10:15 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> I _do_ bleach my cutting board every time I use it for meat, though.
>>
>
>You can just wash it with warm water and soap, lots of rinsing and if
>worried after that wipe it with diluted vinegar. Easier on the wood
>and accepted/suggested practice by food scientest who have published
>on this subject.
What part of "plastic cutting boards" did you miss? ;)
P.S: How's Godwin?
--
Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the
existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of
the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear.
-- Thomas Jefferson
First lets caution that many woods are poisonous or is such
that you are attacked while working on it. Smoke, dust, touch, oils.
Wood for cutting boards seems to be a natural. However, cutting into
them leaves a slice - a place for food poison. My wife's grandfather
was a butcher (after larger farms bought him out) and had to clean
his large blocks after scraping them every day then cleaning each with
ammonia.
Housewife's don't do that. The worse are the built in ones - rancid
oils...
I have a program that indicates issues - and another file (somewhere)
I used while turning some years ago - have to get back into it - been
busy lately.
Martin
On 12/5/2011 11:21 AM, blueman wrote:
> I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light
> checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle.
>
> I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light
> field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to
> alternate with the hard maple in the field.
>
> The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being
> distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern
blueman wrote:
> I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light
> checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle.
>
> I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light
> field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to
> alternate with the hard maple in the field.
Hickory sap wood
Birch
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Mon, 05 Dec 2011 21:26:07 -0600, Martin Eastburn wrote:
> Wood for cutting boards seems to be a natural. However, cutting into
> them leaves a slice - a place for food poison. My wife's grandfather
> was a butcher (after larger farms bought him out) and had to clean his
> large blocks after scraping them every day then cleaning each with
> ammonia.
>
> Housewife's don't do that. The worse are the built in ones - rancid
> oils...
I think you've got it backwards - the plastic ones are the problem. See:
<http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/faculty/docliver/Research/
cuttingboard.htm>
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On 12/6/2011 12:45 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Mon, 05 Dec 2011 21:26:07 -0600, Martin Eastburn wrote:
>
>> Wood for cutting boards seems to be a natural. However, cutting into
>> them leaves a slice - a place for food poison. My wife's grandfather
>> was a butcher (after larger farms bought him out) and had to clean his
>> large blocks after scraping them every day then cleaning each with
>> ammonia.
>>
>> Housewife's don't do that. The worse are the built in ones - rancid
>> oils...
>
> I think you've got it backwards - the plastic ones are the problem. See:
>
> <http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/faculty/docliver/Research/
> cuttingboard.htm>
I think you all got it wrong. Live in a pure environment and you soon
need to live in a bubble. Everyone I know has survived eating food cut
on both wood and plastic cutting boards. Quit wringing your hands and
eat your pound of dirt...
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 20:17:43 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Dec 8, 8:05 pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>> On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 17:10:15 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >> I _do_ bleach my cutting board every time I use it for meat, though.
>>
>> >You can just wash it with warm water and soap, lots of rinsing and if
>> >worried after that wipe it with diluted vinegar. Easier on the wood
>> >and accepted/suggested practice by food scientest who have published
>> >on this subject.
>>
>> What part of "plastic cutting boards" did you miss? ;)
>>
>> P.S: How's Godwin?
>
>Plastic cutting boards are worse than wood.
>
>Here is a clip from the Boos website that mentions this FACT and also
>clarifiys that food service industry requires NSF certification and
>the list of wood cutting surface items certified happen to ONLY BE
>MAPLE.
>
>I can probably find a link to the study the reference if needed to
>silence the naves.
>
>Clip: If you care to read rather than live in your ignorance.
>For decades the government was tough on wood products and urged the
--snip--
<blink, blink> Swingy's right.
<new filter engaged>
--
Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the
existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of
the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear.
-- Thomas Jefferson
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> writes:
> On Dec 5, 9:21Â am, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light
>> checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle.
>>
>> I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light
>> field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to
>> alternate with the hard maple in the field.
>>
>> The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being
>> distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern
>
> Things to consider:
> 1. Disimilar woods expand/contract at different rates and can easily
> destroy this type of glue up. I have seen it break edge laminated
> table tops.
> 2. Cutting boards need to use nonpours woods, thus the use of Hard
> Maple as the standard? How porous or not is Purple Heart?
> 3. Some woods can have toxic and allergic properties. Make sure you
> aren't choosing one of those woods.
Actually, Purple Heart was suggested and used in a Cutting Board on the
Wood Wisperer's web site - Now perhaps he didn't do the research... but
he seemes to be otherwise relatively competent...
I might consider alternatively using Walnut for my pattern pieces...
On 07 Dec 2011 18:41:27 GMT, Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>Jack <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> I think you all got it wrong. Live in a pure environment and you soon
>> need to live in a bubble. Everyone I know has survived eating food cut
>> on both wood and plastic cutting boards. Quit wringing your hands and
>> eat your pound of dirt...
>
>Yep. Clean is good enough. Sterile is so, well, sterile ...
Sure. The 7 Second Rule. If it's on the ground for fewer than seven
seconds, pick it up, blow it off, and eat it. Not a problem.
I _do_ bleach my cutting board every time I use it for meat, though.
--
Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the
existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of
the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear.
-- Thomas Jefferson
On Mon, 05 Dec 2011 12:21:16 -0500, blueman <[email protected]> wrote:
>I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light
>checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle.
>
>I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light
>field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to
>alternate with the hard maple in the field.
>
>The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being
>distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern
I just posted photos on APBW of what I made from walnut, cherry,
maple. I made a half dozen of them for gifts a couple of years ago.