I am about to finish up a walnut double pedestal desk with raised panels.
My plan for finishing is to fill, stain and finish. The top will be
polyurethane and the base shellac. In the past I have not put this much
time and money into a project and don't want to mess it up. Does this
finishing plan sound OK. Any suggestions for brand to use or ways to do it
would be helpful.
Thanks,
ED
"Ed Clark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Wf0hc.65224$U83.23421@fed1read03...
> I am about to finish up a walnut double pedestal desk with raised panels.
> My plan for finishing is to fill, stain and finish.
<gasp> Did you say stain? ON WALNUT?? ARE YOU CRAZY??!!
How about a splendid recipe of watco oil, polyurethane and mineral spirits.
Wipe on, wet sand, repeat with with as many coats as you can stand (I
usually get tired at 6 coats). Apply wax, buff, stare at the beauty.
SH
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
> Waterlox is the commercial equivalent I use. Tung, BLO, solvent, and
> oil-based varnish. Goes on thin and smooth, dries quickly, stinks less
> than Watco, and is more "protection" than 99% of projects need.
> Lovely stuff, that. Are you saving any money by mixing your own?
> ($35/gal from Russ @ www.woodfinishingsupplies.com) Now that I have
> larger projects in the works, I need to order a gallon. This quart is
> going to go much more quickly than my last. (More good news, eh?)
I'm always looking for an easier method. Being the new dog I am. Which
sheen do you use?
SH
On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 16:20:05 -0700, "Slowhand" <I'm@work> brought
forth from the murky depths:
>
>"Ed Clark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:Wf0hc.65224$U83.23421@fed1read03...
>> I am about to finish up a walnut double pedestal desk with raised panels.
>> My plan for finishing is to fill, stain and finish.
>
><gasp> Did you say stain? ON WALNUT?? ARE YOU CRAZY??!!
>
>How about a splendid recipe of watco oil, polyurethane and mineral spirits.
>Wipe on, wet sand, repeat with with as many coats as you can stand (I
>usually get tired at 6 coats). Apply wax, buff, stare at the beauty.
Muddy walnut wrapped in poly doesn't even come close to resembling
any beauty I've ever seen, suh.
-------------------------------------------
Stain and Poly are their own punishment
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
======================================================
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Muddy walnut wrapped in poly doesn't even come close to resembling
> any beauty I've ever seen, suh.
To be fair, the previous poster described a wiping mix with oil,
poly and solvent, which is too far removed from a mix I've used with
good success. Mine uses BLO, turps and spar varnish in roughly equal
proportions. (Of course I don't wetsand it; I use my trusty planes
for the final surface.)
You can see an example of it on a walnut flybox that I made last
year: http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/flybox01.jpg
Chuck Vance
Chuck Vance responds:
>> Muddy walnut wrapped in poly doesn't even come close to resembling
>> any beauty I've ever seen, suh.
>
> To be fair, the previous poster described a wiping mix with oil,
>poly and solvent, which is too far removed from a mix I've used with
>good success. Mine uses BLO, turps and spar varnish in roughly equal
>proportions. (Of course I don't wetsand it; I use my trusty planes
>for the final surface.)
>
> You can see an example of it on a walnut flybox that I made last
>year: http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/flybox01.jpg
>
Now that truly works!
Charlie Self
"Ambidextrous, adj.: Able to pick with equal skill a right-hand pocket or a
left." Ambrose Bierce
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Waterlox is the commercial equivalent I use. Tung, BLO, solvent, and
> oil-based varnish. Goes on thin and smooth, dries quickly, stinks less
> than Watco, and is more "protection" than 99% of projects need.
> Lovely stuff, that. Are you saving any money by mixing your own?
> ($35/gal from Russ @ www.woodfinishingsupplies.com)
I'm probably not saving much at all. (Spar is ~$15/qt., BLO is
~$4/qt. and turps is ~$7.) But my finishing schedule involves
starting off with a mix that's mostly turps and BLO for the first
coat, and then increasing the proportion of varnish to get the build I
want. By mixing my own I'm in control of the proportions.
> Now that I have
> larger projects in the works, I need to order a gallon. This quart is
> going to go much more quickly than my last. (More good news, eh?)
I hear rumors that you are actually finishing some projects these
days. Could that be true?
> >(Of course I don't wetsand it; I use my trusty planes for the final surface.)
>
> Two much better ploys, for sure. Wetsanding is too much like painting
> AFAIC. I'd love to see someone mask a walnut project, wetsand half and
> just scrape/finish the other half, then take a picture.
A totally different look, for sure. But I imagine some folks like
the filled-pore look (not me).
Chuck Vance
[email protected] (Patrick Olguin) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> [email protected] (Conan the Librarian) wrote in message:
> > You can see an example of it on a walnut flybox that I made last
> > year: http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/flybox01.jpg
>
> Beautiful, Chuck.
Thanks, mano. That piece of walnut came from Mike Mastin (Curly
Woods). I needed some thick stuff for another project, and didn't
even want figured wood. That was on the end of one piece that was
otherwise pretty plain. I just love that kind of figure in walnut.
> As Charlie already said, perform the entire finishing schedule on a
> representative piece of scrap and see how you like it.
Or as Paully would say: Practice on scrap or you *will* be
practicing on your project.
> Filled walnut
> isn't so bad, but it will have a very formal look. I'm satisfied with
> the small open pored look with walnut. For example, here's a project
> that was completed nearly in the dark, just a few minutes before it
> was time to open presents. The look on the recipient's face tells the
> story, and whether or not the finishing schedule (pure tung oil,
> thinned with turpentine, wiped off, and then a few coats of 2# dewaxed
> orange shellac - brushed on with a Golden Taklon brush)worked:
>
> http://www.klownhammer.org/photos/xmas_project.jpg
Very cool, and you're right, the look on SWIATAABOC's face tells
the story. But who's the big goofy-looking guy in the picture?
> You can see the tool marks, which in retrospect, I kinda like. There
> is also some serious sapwood, which I really really like.
Sapwood in walnut can definitely be a good thing. Back when I was
just starting out, I made a little box for my L-N #164 (low-angle
smoothing plane, Keef). I had a nice piece of walnut with a fair
amount of sapwood, but rather than cutting the stuff off, I chose to
feature it: http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/LNbox2.gif
It's good to see someone else who's not afraid of the stuff.
> Ain't woodfinishing discussions fun?
> O'Deen
Strangely enough, I actually enjoy them. I blame you and Paully
Rad for that. These days I can't wait to see the piece when I first
hit it with BLO or shellac or whatever. And to think I used to wish I
could hire someone else to do my finishing for me.
Chuck Vance
BTW, I've been driving around for weeks with a big hunk of
mesquite sitting in a box on the passenger's side of my van. I wonder
if I should maybe get by the stinking post office and send the darned
thing out to Cahleeforneeya. Whaddaya think?
[email protected] (Conan the Librarian) wrote in message:
> You can see an example of it on a walnut flybox that I made last
> year: http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/flybox01.jpg
Beautiful, Chuck.
As Charlie already said, perform the entire finishing schedule on a
representative piece of scrap and see how you like it. Filled walnut
isn't so bad, but it will have a very formal look. I'm satisfied with
the small open pored look with walnut. For example, here's a project
that was completed nearly in the dark, just a few minutes before it
was time to open presents. The look on the recipient's face tells the
story, and whether or not the finishing schedule (pure tung oil,
thinned with turpentine, wiped off, and then a few coats of 2# dewaxed
orange shellac - brushed on with a Golden Taklon brush)worked:
http://www.klownhammer.org/photos/xmas_project.jpg
You can see the tool marks, which in retrospect, I kinda like. There
is also some serious sapwood, which I really really like.
Ain't woodfinishing discussions fun?
O'Deen
ODeen notes:
>As Charlie already said, perform the entire finishing schedule on a
>representative piece of scrap and see how you like it. Filled walnut
>isn't so bad, but it will have a very formal look. I'm satisfied with
>the small open pored look with walnut. For example, here's a project
>that was completed nearly in the dark, just a few minutes before it
>was time to open presents. The look on the recipient's face tells the
>story, and whether or not the finishing schedule (pure tung oil,
>thinned with turpentine, wiped off, and then a few coats of 2# dewaxed
>orange shellac - brushed on with a Golden Taklon brush)worked:
>
>http://www.klownhammer.org/photos/xmas_project.jpg
>
>You can see the tool marks, which in retrospect, I kinda like. There
>is also some serious sapwood, which I really really like.
>
>Ain't woodfinishing discussions fun?
Yeah. I seem to recall that the OP wanted to use the walnut for a desktop. Now,
even my computer desk finds me pushing away at a ballpoint from time to time,
so a filled surface is probably a good idea, though the walnut open grain ain't
nowhere near as open as red oak, where your pen point falls in and stays in.
Charlie Self
"Ambidextrous, adj.: Able to pick with equal skill a right-hand pocket or a
left." Ambrose Bierce
I'm not saying it won't work but it isn't a finishing schedule I'd follow.
In the first place, if I wanted something to look like walnut and had spent
the money to by actual walnut I sure would not be planning on stain.
Mixing finishes will probably give you an obvious mismatch to start with and
almost certainly will as the piece ages.
My opinion about walnut is that it was especially created to be oiled and
waxed. I'd use a Danish or Varnish oil, natural. If I wanted to darken
things a bit I'd use a dark or antiqueing wax. I'd use a desk pad or glass
on the desk top. Note, I'd use either/or even if I were to, not that it
would happen, poly the surface.
The really nice thing about all that is that since you are not filling,
staining, or building a surface finish it's almost impossible to screw up
the finish.
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Ed Clark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Wf0hc.65224$U83.23421@fed1read03...
> I am about to finish up a walnut double pedestal desk with raised panels.
> My plan for finishing is to fill, stain and finish. The top will be
> polyurethane and the base shellac. In the past I have not put this much
> time and money into a project and don't want to mess it up. Does this
> finishing plan sound OK. Any suggestions for brand to use or ways to do
it
> would be helpful.
>
> Thanks,
>
> ED
>
>
> My preferred finish is General Finishes Arm-R-Seal or Bartleys Gel
Varnish.
>
I am staining a project with Bartleys gel varnish and will have to buy some
varnish anyhow, so maybe I will try their gel varnish also.
I have found that the stain takes a certain amount of work to get the excess
off. Is the gel varnish like that also, or is it easier to apply? A
wipe-on polyurethane is the easiest thing in the world; how does the gel
varnish compare?
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> > My preferred finish is General Finishes Arm-R-Seal or Bartleys Gel
> Varnish.
> >
> I am staining a project with Bartleys gel varnish and will have to buy
some
> varnish anyhow, so maybe I will try their gel varnish also.
>
> I have found that the stain takes a certain amount of work to get the
excess
> off. Is the gel varnish like that also, or is it easier to apply? A
> wipe-on polyurethane is the easiest thing in the world; how does the gel
> varnish compare?
>
>
With the Bartley Gel stain and the varnish, you wipe it on and "IMMEDIATELY"
wipe it off. Do not apply more than a square foot or two before wiping.
Also the product should have the consistency of Vaseline. If it is any
thicker it is probably old and the product tends to be harder to wipe off.
If you are having a difficult time wiping it off you may be waiting too
long to remove the excess. If you have smudges, simply reapply more in the
same spot and wipe. I have been using Bartleys since the 80's and it works
great once you learn to work fast and not let it set too long between
application and wiping off.
Ed, I think I would not stain the walnut.
My personal preference is to not fill the grain and let the surface show the
natural grain texture.
My preferred finish is General Finishes Arm-R-Seal or Bartleys Gel Varnish.
"Ed Clark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Wf0hc.65224$U83.23421@fed1read03...
> I am about to finish up a walnut double pedestal desk with raised panels.
> My plan for finishing is to fill, stain and finish. The top will be
> polyurethane and the base shellac. In the past I have not put this much
> time and money into a project and don't want to mess it up. Does this
> finishing plan sound OK. Any suggestions for brand to use or ways to do
it
> would be helpful.
>
> Thanks,
>
> ED
>
>
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> > My preferred finish is General Finishes Arm-R-Seal or Bartleys Gel
> Varnish.
> >
> I am staining a project with Bartleys gel varnish and will have to buy
some
> varnish anyhow, so maybe I will try their gel varnish also.
>
> I have found that the stain takes a certain amount of work to get the
excess
> off. Is the gel varnish like that also, or is it easier to apply? A
> wipe-on polyurethane is the easiest thing in the world; how does the gel
> varnish compare?
Well, I've used the Bartley Gel Varnish on two projects now, and from my
experience, you can throw the directions on the can out the window. I
happen to be taking woodworking classes at a place here in Chicago that does
custom woodwork and their experience is the same as mine. Their method of
use is to apply the varnish in small areas and then rub with a paper towel
until dry. Repeat 10 or 20 times. It worked great for me, as I could never
keep rag marks off the surface the way the instructions say. Obviously, the
build is slower, but the results are easier to obtain, IMHO.
todd
Ed Clark wrote:
> I am about to finish up a walnut double pedestal desk with raised panels.
> My plan for finishing is to fill, stain and finish. The top will be
> polyurethane and the base shellac. In the past I have not put this much
> time and money into a project and don't want to mess it up. Does this
> finishing plan sound OK. Any suggestions for brand to use or ways to do
> it would be helpful.
Staining walnut is a crime against nature. The Woodworking Gods will punish
you with a sentence requiring that you use no wood other than Jummy (pine)
for the next 15 years.
Covering walnut with poly is another crime agaist nature, with a similar
sentence. Sentences served back to back.
Unless you want to be using Jummywood for the next 30 years, I suggest you
throw away the stain and triple up on the shellac.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Silvan responds:
>Staining walnut is a crime against nature. The Woodworking Gods will punish
>you with a sentence requiring that you use no wood other than Jummy (pine)
>for the next 15 years.
>
>Covering walnut with poly is another crime agaist nature, with a similar
>sentence. Sentences served back to back.
>
>Unless you want to be using Jummywood for the next 30 years, I suggest you
>throw away the stain and triple up on the shellac.
Oh, bullshit, Michael. If he likes the look, then there's no reason on earth
not to do it that way. I'd strongly suggest an experiment on scrap, but not
doing something because of someone else's prejudices is not a good way to go,
no matter comically they're phrased.
Charlie Self
"Ambidextrous, adj.: Able to pick with equal skill a right-hand pocket or a
left." Ambrose Bierce
> Oh, bullshit, Michael. If he likes the look, then there's no reason on
earth
> not to do it that way. I'd strongly suggest an experiment on scrap, but
not
> doing something because of someone else's prejudices is not a good way to
go,
> no matter comically they're phrased.
>
> Charlie Self
Eloquently put Charlie. Couldn't have said it better myself.
Take care
Mike
--
Mike G.
[email protected]
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
Charlie Self wrote:
>>Unless you want to be using Jummywood for the next 30 years, I suggest you
>>throw away the stain and triple up on the shellac.
>
> Oh, bullshit, Michael. If he likes the look, then there's no reason on
Yeowch.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
On Mon, 19 Apr 2004 19:53:15 -0700, Ed Clark <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am about to finish up a walnut double pedestal desk with raised panels.
> My plan for finishing is to fill, stain and finish.
Why would you use walnut if you're goint to stain it?
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Conan the Librarian) writes:
> A totally different look, for sure. But I imagine some folks like
> the filled-pore look (not me).
Me neither (with walnut, anyway). Don't filled pores give you zits?
--
Jeff Thunder
Dept. of Mathematical Sciences
Northern Illinois Univ.
jthunder at math dot niu dot edu
Jeff Thunder asks:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] (Conan the Librarian) writes:
>> A totally different look, for sure. But I imagine some folks like
>> the filled-pore look (not me).
>
>Me neither (with walnut, anyway). Don't filled pores give you zits?
Only if your nuts are ready to be shelled. :)
Charlie Self
"Property is not the sacred right. When a rich man becomes poor it is a
misfortune, it is not a moral evil. When a poor man becomes destitute, it is a
moral evil, teeming with consequences and injurious to society and morality."
Lord Acton
Better check with your local authorities. In many states it is illegal to
use anything but tung oil on Walnut. Should be a federal statute, but the
feds tend to move slowly.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
"Ed Clark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Wf0hc.65224$U83.23421@fed1read03...
> I am about to finish up a walnut double pedestal desk with raised panels.
> My plan for finishing is to fill, stain and finish. The top will be
> polyurethane and the base shellac. In the past I have not put this much
> time and money into a project and don't want to mess it up. Does this
> finishing plan sound OK. Any suggestions for brand to use or ways to do
it
> would be helpful.
>
> Thanks,
>
> ED
>
>
On 22 Apr 2004 15:37:11 GMT, [email protected] (Jeffrey
Thunder) wrote:
>Me neither (with walnut, anyway). Don't filled pores give you zits?
Not if you fill them with Poropac.
Prolly just gives ya cancer.
Or, makes ya look like Michael Jackson.
(which'd be worser.)
On 22 Apr 2004 05:04:00 -0700, [email protected] (Conan the Librarian)
brought forth from the murky depths:
> I'm probably not saving much at all. (Spar is ~$15/qt., BLO is
>~$4/qt. and turps is ~$7.) But my finishing schedule involves
>starting off with a mix that's mostly turps and BLO for the first
>coat, and then increasing the proportion of varnish to get the build I
>want. By mixing my own I'm in control of the proportions.
I'm happy with everything about Waterlox except the crust it forms
from sitting too long with air in the can. But that hasn't been a
problem with the last can.
>> Now that I have
>> larger projects in the works, I need to order a gallon. This quart is
>> going to go much more quickly than my last. (More good news, eh?)
>
> I hear rumors that you are actually finishing some projects these
>days. Could that be true?
Are you sitting down? OK, it is true.
>> >(Of course I don't wetsand it; I use my trusty planes for the final surface.)
>>
>> Two much better ploys, for sure. Wetsanding is too much like painting
>> AFAIC. I'd love to see someone mask a walnut project, wetsand half and
>> just scrape/finish the other half, then take a picture.
>
> A totally different look, for sure. But I imagine some folks like
>the filled-pore look (not me).
We like the nuance of a clearcoat-filled pore to give it the
elegant shadow it deserves.
-
Don't be a possum on the Information Superhighway of life.
----
http://diversify.com Dynamic Database-Driven Websites
On 20 Apr 2004 14:39:03 GMT, Dave Hinz <[email protected]> brought
forth from the murky depths:
>On Mon, 19 Apr 2004 19:53:15 -0700, Ed Clark <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I am about to finish up a walnut double pedestal desk with raised panels.
>> My plan for finishing is to fill, stain and finish.
>
>Why would you use walnut if you're goint to stain it?
...or poly it, or fill the lovely pores with plain face dust?
--------------------------------------
PESSIMIST: An optimist with experience
--------------------------------------------
www.diversify.com - Web Database Development
On Wed, 21 Apr 2004 14:35:13 -0700, "Slowhand" <I'm@work> brought
forth from the murky depths:
>
>"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
>
>> Waterlox is the commercial equivalent I use. Tung, BLO, solvent, and
>> oil-based varnish. Goes on thin and smooth, dries quickly, stinks less
>> than Watco, and is more "protection" than 99% of projects need.
>> Lovely stuff, that. Are you saving any money by mixing your own?
>> ($35/gal from Russ @ www.woodfinishingsupplies.com) Now that I have
>> larger projects in the works, I need to order a gallon. This quart is
>> going to go much more quickly than my last. (More good news, eh?)
>
> I'm always looking for an easier method. Being the new dog I am. Which
>sheen do you use?
I degloss any of them, but have used the satin and medium sheens.
I like the medium sheen better because a bit less deglossing is
required. I love Waterlox for several reasons:
1) you can wipe it on with an old sock and it looks GREAT.
2) the oil pops the grain and gives a minimal amber hue.
3) the varnish provides a good skin.
4) both tung oil and varnish are tough.
5) it denibs/sands easily and touches up in minutes.
6) it stinks less/is safer than Watco's metal driers.
-
Don't be a possum on the Information Superhighway of life.
----
http://diversify.com Dynamic Database-Driven Websites
I found this method of wet sanding using spar varnish on fine woodworking.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00117.asp
I've tried it on walnut and it does a real nice job.
Rick
--
webservant for
Web design for churches http://www.gibs-web.ca
Wycliffe Bible Translators Caribbean http://www.wycliffecaribbean.org
Journaling / mental health http://www.pipcom.com/~jpeacock/
Bothwell Baptist Church http://www.forministry.com/CAONBCOOQBBC1
"Ed Clark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Wf0hc.65224$U83.23421@fed1read03...
> I am about to finish up a walnut double pedestal desk with raised panels.
> My plan for finishing is to fill, stain and finish. The top will be
> polyurethane and the base shellac. In the past I have not put this much
> time and money into a project and don't want to mess it up. Does this
> finishing plan sound OK. Any suggestions for brand to use or ways to do
it
> would be helpful.
>
> Thanks,
>
> ED
>
>
On Wed, 21 Apr 2004 19:01:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>>"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
>>
>>> Waterlox is the commercial equivalent I use. Tung, BLO, solvent, and
>>> oil-based varnish. Goes on thin and smooth, dries quickly, stinks less
>>> than Watco, and is more "protection" than 99% of projects need.
>>> Lovely stuff, that. Are you saving any money by mixing your own?
>>> ($35/gal from Russ @ www.woodfinishingsupplies.com) Now that I have
>>> larger projects in the works, I need to order a gallon. This quart is
>>> going to go much more quickly than my last. (More good news, eh?)
>>
>> I'm always looking for an easier method. Being the new dog I am. Which
>>sheen do you use?
>
>I degloss any of them, but have used the satin and medium sheens.
>I like the medium sheen better because a bit less deglossing is
>required. I love Waterlox for several reasons:
>
>1) you can wipe it on with an old sock and it looks GREAT.
>2) the oil pops the grain and gives a minimal amber hue.
>3) the varnish provides a good skin.
>4) both tung oil and varnish are tough.
>5) it denibs/sands easily and touches up in minutes.
>6) it stinks less/is safer than Watco's metal driers.
>
I agree Larry. If the material is not going to be exposed to water or
alcohol, and I want a high gloss, I'll quickly throw on 3 coast of 2#
shellac and rub it out. I could do the sam with a couple more coast
of Waterlox, but the shellac dries faster.
Cape Cod Bob
Visit my web site at http://home.comcast.net/~bobmethelis
Delete the two "spam"s for email
On 21 Apr 2004 05:12:48 -0700, [email protected] (Conan the Librarian)
brought forth from the murky depths:
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
>
>> Muddy walnut wrapped in poly doesn't even come close to resembling
>> any beauty I've ever seen, suh.
>
> To be fair, the previous poster described a wiping mix with oil,
>poly and solvent, which is too far removed from a mix I've used with
>good success. Mine uses BLO, turps and spar varnish in roughly equal
>proportions.
Waterlox is the commercial equivalent I use. Tung, BLO, solvent, and
oil-based varnish. Goes on thin and smooth, dries quickly, stinks less
than Watco, and is more "protection" than 99% of projects need.
Lovely stuff, that. Are you saving any money by mixing your own?
($35/gal from Russ @ www.woodfinishingsupplies.com) Now that I have
larger projects in the works, I need to order a gallon. This quart is
going to go much more quickly than my last. (More good news, eh?)
>(Of course I don't wetsand it; I use my trusty planes for the final surface.)
Two much better ploys, for sure. Wetsanding is too much like painting
AFAIC. I'd love to see someone mask a walnut project, wetsand half and
just scrape/finish the other half, then take a picture.
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On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 00:04:16 -0400, Cape Cod Bob
<[email protected]> brought forth from the murky depths:
>I agree Larry. If the material is not going to be exposed to water or
>alcohol, and I want a high gloss, I'll quickly throw on 3 coast of 2#
>shellac and rub it out. I could do the sam with a couple more coast
>of Waterlox, but the shellac dries faster.
Right, 15 instead of 30 minutes.
But I never put on more than one coat a day (after the first two, a
sealer and first coat) so it really doesn't matter what I use. I
learned very early on to NEVER rush a finish. It just flat does NOT
work. Warm, ventilated work area, a minimum of a day to dry, low
hummerditty, etc.
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"Ed Clark" wrote in message
> I am about to finish up a walnut double pedestal desk with raised panels.
> My plan for finishing is to fill, stain and finish. The top will be
> polyurethane and the base shellac. In the past I have not put this much
> time and money into a project and don't want to mess it up. Does this
> finishing plan sound OK. Any suggestions for brand to use or ways to do
it
> would be helpful.
No stain, hand rubbed oil/varnish finish on walnut is beautiful, IMO.
And in the future, you only have to take the necessary care that the wood
rightly deserves in the first place.
--
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Last update: 4/13/04
On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 04:35:30 GMT, "Greg Millen" <[email protected]>
brought forth from the murky depths:
>"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ...
>> > I hear rumors that you are actually finishing some projects these
>> >days. Could that be true?
>>
>> Are you sitting down? OK, it is true.
>
>Thud!
Wouldn't that be "Boink!" Don't you fall up Down Under?
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