HDPE for TS inserts?

On 2008-01-29 11:42:01 -0500, RicodJour <[email protected]> said:

> On Jan 29, 11:22 am, - Colonel - <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Hey, all,
>>
>> I have a sheet of 3/4" GE "Starboard" (white hi-density polyethylene
>> with UV blockers) that I was originally going to use on a boat, but
>> didn't.
>>
>> I was considering using it for various woodworking jigs, but I wondered
>> also whether it would be suitable for making zero-clearance tablesaw
>> inserts for dadoing, running various molding head cutters, etc.
>>
>> Has anyone used HDPE for this? Is it stiff enough? Any problems?
>
> That's a crap load of table saw inserts! At 3/4" and a small span
> it's certainly stiff enough for a TS insert, but it's also thicker
> than it needs to be and way more expensive. Starboard also has a bit
> of a texture to it and I'm not sure if that would help or hurt. Have
> you considered selling the sheet and just picking up scrap for your
> inserts?

Well, I would have to run it through the jointer or planer to get it
thinned down enough to fit my Powermatic 64A, that would take the
textured surface off.

I hadn't really thought much about selling it. It's one idea...

On Jan 29, 11:22 am, - Colonel - <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hey, all,
>
> I have a sheet of 3/4" GE "Starboard" (white hi-density polyethylene
> with UV blockers) that I was originally going to use on a boat, but
> didn't.
>
> I was considering using it for various woodworking jigs, but I wondered
> also whether it would be suitable for making zero-clearance tablesaw
> inserts for dadoing, running various molding head cutters, etc.
>
> Has anyone used HDPE for this? Is it stiff enough? Any problems?

That's a crap load of table saw inserts! At 3/4" and a small span
it's certainly stiff enough for a TS insert, but it's also thicker
than it needs to be and way more expensive. Starboard also has a bit
of a texture to it and I'm not sure if that would help or hurt. Have
you considered selling the sheet and just picking up scrap for your
inserts?

R

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 16:22:54 GMT, – Colonel – <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>I was considering using it for various woodworking jigs, but I wondered
>also whether it would be suitable for making zero-clearance tablesaw
>inserts for dadoing, running various molding head cutters, etc.
>
>Has anyone used HDPE for this? Is it stiff enough? Any problems?
>
>Thanks-
>
HDPE will work fine.

On Jan 29, 11:01 am, - Colonel - <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Well, I would have to run it through the jointer or planer to get it
> thinned down enough to fit my Powermatic 64A, that would take the
> textured surface off.

Don't forget to wear your gloves!

Robert

<<Well, I would have to run it through the jointer or planer to get it
thinned down enough to fit my Powermatic 64A, that would take the
textured surface off.>>

Unless you have really good dust collection, it will also make your workshop
look like a snowstorm took place in there.

Lee

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_________________________________
Lee Gordon
http://www.leegordonproductions.com

On 29 Jan, 18:37, "Lee Gordon" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Unless you have really good dust collection, it will also make your workshop
> look like a snowstorm took place in there.

Test this out first by sucking up a dozen gophers and a couple of
Grateful Dead fans through your dust extraction. If it copes with
this, it'll cope with the swarf from HDPE. Certainly when I bandsaw
the stuff I don't use the dust extraction - there's a wire guard in
there and HDPE swarf catches straight onto it (or any protrusion) and
makes the dust bunny from hell.

I'd be a bit worried about this thing sagging if left loaded for a
long period. HDPE will creep over time. Rather than thinning it down,
I'd machine it out on a router. If your insert is anything like mine,
then 3/4" thickness is nothing to it, except for a narrow strip over
the arbor and four little mounting pads in the corners.