Length of miter bar slots cut into an outfeed table?

>> Seems to me they don't need to run the entire length of the table -
>> if the table's outfeed distance is greater than the length of the
>> miter bar, right?
>>
>> First Question: Wouldn't the proper way to size the outfeed miter
>> slots be - to run the miter gauge fence up to (or slightly past) the
>> arbor, then see how much of the bar protrudes off the table???
>>
>> You don't really need to keep pushing the gauge forward, once the cut
>> is completed, right?

I wouldn't try and make them act as miter slots, just provide clearence for
the bar (maybe make the slots 1" wide). The reason is if you make the slots
the same size as the table slots, the miter will either bind or be deflected
when it enters the outfeed table slots. Unless you make the outfeed table out
of the same material (cast iron?), it will never align exactly.

-Bruce

On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 01:18:55 GMT, "mttt" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Seems to me they don't need to run the entire length of the table - if the
>table's outfeed distance is greater than the length of the miter bar, right?

Nope, but it's easier just to run them all the way.

>Second Question: Is there a good reason to make the outfeed slots using
>T-track, or some other snug fitting apparatus?

I used leftover hardwood for high wear and low cost. Commercial track
will work, as will a groove directly in the top material.

<http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/outfeed.jpg>

Barry

>Subject: Length of miter bar slots cut into an outfeed table?
>From: "mttt" [email protected]
>Date: 01/13/2004 6:18 PM US Mountain Standard Time
>Message-id: <[email protected]>
>
>Seems to me they don't need to run the entire length of the table - if the
>table's outfeed distance is greater than the length of the miter bar, right?
>
>First Question: Wouldn't the proper way to size the outfeed miter slots be -
>to run the miter gauge fence up to (or slightly past) the arbor, then see
>how much of the bar protrudes off the table???
>
>You don't really need to keep pushing the gauge forward, once the cut is
>completed, right?
>
>
>Second Question: Is there a good reason to make the outfeed slots using
>T-track, or some other snug fitting apparatus? Or should I just cut a slot
>that reasonably matches the width and depth of the slot in the CI table?
>
>Thanks!
Just getting the material past the spinning blade will give you an idea how
far to cut the tracks into the outfeed table. They don't need to be tight to
the bar. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....

I made my slots 1" wide and slightly longer than what would be
required to have the wood clear the blade. I also drilled a 1" hole
at the end of the slot to stop sawdust buildup. The dust gets pushed
to the end of the slot and falls through.

I think that I would try not push it far enough that I dadoed my face.




"Nick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 01:18:55 GMT, "mttt" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Seems to me they don't need to run the entire length of the table - if
the
> >table's outfeed distance is greater than the length of the miter bar,
right?
> >
> >First Question: Wouldn't the proper way to size the outfeed miter slots
be -
> >to run the miter gauge fence up to (or slightly past) the arbor, then see
> >how much of the bar protrudes off the table???
> >
> >You don't really need to keep pushing the gauge forward, once the cut is
> >completed, right?
>
> For safety, shouldn't you push the wood past the very sharp, very
> fast, spinning, carbide tipped blade?
>
> Nick
>

[email protected] (Ken) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I also drilled a 1" hole at the end of the slot to stop sawdust buildup. The dust gets pushed to the end of the slot and falls through.

Wow, great idea. I'm gonna do that on mine....

"mttt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Seems to me they don't need to run the entire length of the table - if the
> table's outfeed distance is greater than the length of the miter bar,
right?

Right

>
> First Question: Wouldn't the proper way to size the outfeed miter slots
be -
> to run the miter gauge fence up to (or slightly past) the arbor, then see
> how much of the bar protrudes off the table???

Almost right. Allow enough to clear the blade.


> You don't really need to keep pushing the gauge forward, once the cut is
> completed, right?

I like to be able to get past the blade before removing the piece in most
cases. Yes, if I'm cutting thin stock I just draw it back, but not always.


> Second Question: Is there a good reason to make the outfeed slots using
> T-track, or some other snug fitting apparatus? Or should I just cut a
slot
> that reasonably matches the width and depth of the slot in the CI table?

Right, just allow some clearance.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 01:18:55 GMT, "mttt" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Seems to me they don't need to run the entire length of the table - if the
>table's outfeed distance is greater than the length of the miter bar, right?
>
>First Question: Wouldn't the proper way to size the outfeed miter slots be -
>to run the miter gauge fence up to (or slightly past) the arbor, then see
>how much of the bar protrudes off the table???
>
>You don't really need to keep pushing the gauge forward, once the cut is
>completed, right?

For safety, shouldn't you push the wood past the very sharp, very
fast, spinning, carbide tipped blade?

Nick

mttt wrote:
> Seems to me they don't need to run the entire length of the table -
> if the table's outfeed distance is greater than the length of the
> miter bar, right?
>
> First Question: Wouldn't the proper way to size the outfeed miter
> slots be - to run the miter gauge fence up to (or slightly past) the
> arbor, then see how much of the bar protrudes off the table???
>
> You don't really need to keep pushing the gauge forward, once the cut
> is completed, right?

Lots of folks have sliding tables whose runners are longer than the standard
miter bar.

-- Mark

On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 01:18:55 GMT, "mttt" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Seems to me they don't need to run the entire length of the table - if the
>table's outfeed distance is greater than the length of the miter bar, right?
>
>First Question: Wouldn't the proper way to size the outfeed miter slots be -
>to run the miter gauge fence up to (or slightly past) the arbor, then see
>how much of the bar protrudes off the table???

make them a bit longer than the bars would indicate. the dead end
slots will get some sawdust packed into the ends, and you don't want
your sled to stop short.


>
>You don't really need to keep pushing the gauge forward, once the cut is
>completed, right?

correct.



>
>
>Second Question: Is there a good reason to make the outfeed slots using
>T-track, or some other snug fitting apparatus?

you could do this, but it seems like a lot of extra effort for no real
benefit.



> Or should I just cut a slot
>that reasonably matches the width and depth of the slot in the CI table?
>
>Thanks!
>


give yourself a little clearance

In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Ken) wrote:

> I made my slots 1" wide and slightly longer than what would be
> required to have the wood clear the blade. I also drilled a 1" hole
> at the end of the slot to stop sawdust buildup. The dust gets pushed
> to the end of the slot and falls through.

That sounds like an excellent idea.

Another hint I picked up somewhere is to make the hardwood runners not
quite as deep as the slots. If you leave a little clearance (1/16 is
probably enough), the runner rides right over the sawdust that collects
without binding.

In article <[email protected]>, Bridger <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 01:18:55 GMT, "mttt" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>Seems to me they don't need to run the entire length of the table - if the
>>table's outfeed distance is greater than the length of the miter bar, right?
>>
>>First Question: Wouldn't the proper way to size the outfeed miter slots be -
>>to run the miter gauge fence up to (or slightly past) the arbor, then see
>>how much of the bar protrudes off the table???
>
>make them a bit longer than the bars would indicate. the dead end
>slots will get some sawdust packed into the ends, and you don't want
>your sled to stop short.
>
Drilling a hole through the outfeet table at the end of the slot would
allow the sawdust to fall out, eliminating that problem.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?