what is ABPW?
yeah, I need to "see" it ;-)
On Thu, 2 Dec 2004 08:43:25 -0600, "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'll be astounded if you can understand this from the description. I am
>posting a pic of a shelf support in our old side-by-side on ABPW.
>
>RonB
>
>
>"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:0lFrd.81200$EZ.60682@okepread07...
>> If the bookshelf design is more traditional you might try movable cleats
>> supported on forward and aft upright strips. The uprights will have
>> corresponding raduis or 'sawtooth' cutouts every 2-3" to accept similar
>> shaped cleat ends. You can put a dowel in the bottom of the shelf, near
>> each end, to help contain the cleat in its vertical holder - a lot of them
>> didn't even use this. This was used in a lot of the old side-by-sides,
>> secretaries and other antique furniture and is pretty neat.
>>
>> RonB
>>
>>
>>
>
If the bookshelf design is more traditional you might try movable cleats
supported on forward and aft upright strips. The uprights will have
corresponding raduis or 'sawtooth' cutouts every 2-3" to accept similar
shaped cleat ends. You can put a dowel in the bottom of the shelf, near
each end, to help contain the cleat in its vertical holder - a lot of them
didn't even use this. This was used in a lot of the old side-by-sides,
secretaries and other antique furniture and is pretty neat.
RonB
Thu, Dec 2, 2004, 1:42am (EST-2) [email protected]
whispered:
for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
shelf support to use?
The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.
Pegs.
But, don't know why one would want a bookshelf adjustable. Unless
it wasn't used for books. Moving books can be a major PITA.
JOAT
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind dont
matter, and those who matter dont mind.
- Dr Seuss
I made a jig using a 5/8 drill on a drill press. I drilled 5/8 holes every 1
1/4 using a fence and an indexing peg. The jig is 4 feet long. I added a
tailpiece that was threaded so I can index at the bottom of the work piece.
The jig was 6 inches wide and the holes were drilled 2 inches on center in
from an edge. You can align either edge against your work and get a 2 inch
or 4 inch inset. The jig took a couple of hours to make and the hard parts
were the edge guides and tailpiece.
Oh yeah, you use a plunge router with a 5/8 template guide. You can use 1/4
inch spiral or 5 mm or whatever size you want in the router. I then drew
lines through every other hole so I can choose to skip a hole of use them
all.
max
> for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
> shelf support to use?
>
> The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
> shelf support to use?
>
> The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.
I generally use the slotted metal rails that I put into a routed channel,
but if this is what you're say will not work, then how about a little more
information. A better description of the project would be helpful, as would
the reasons why various solutions would be inappropriate.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:20859-41B0AFB7-10@storefull-
>
> But, don't know why one would want a bookshelf adjustable. Unless
> it wasn't used for books. Moving books can be a major PITA.
Maybe all the books aren't the same height and some shelves need to be
adjusted to compensate. Or maybe the bookshelf might be configured for
figurines or something in the future. I probably would have them adjustable
either, but I can envision times when you might want it.
J T wrote:
> stack them. And, I don't put figurines or other stuff on a bookshelf -
> otherwise it'd be a "stuff" shelf.
You've been divorced and single too long, JOAT.
It ain't like we have a CHOICE in these matters. :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
Fri, Dec 3, 2004, 7:43pm [email protected] (Upscale) says:
Maybe all the books aren't the same height and some shelves need to be
adjusted to compensate. <snip>
I always make the top shelf open at the top, for the oversize
books. Works out fine. Alternately, you could just lay them flat, and
stack them. And, I don't put figurines or other stuff on a bookshelf -
otherwise it'd be a "stuff" shelf.
JOAT
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind dont
matter, and those who matter dont mind.
- Dr Seuss
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I always make the top shelf open at the top, for the oversize
> books. Works out fine. Alternately, you could just lay them flat, and
> stack them. And, I don't put figurines or other stuff on a bookshelf -
> otherwise it'd be a "stuff" shelf.
I guess. Unless the shelving is designed solely for books, then it's likely
going to have all sorts of stuff put on it. It's convenient to be able to
accommodate the preferences of the individual user.
> for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
> shelf support to use?
> The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.
Can you drill 1/4" holes spaced every inch or so and use shelf pins to
support the shelves? The pins come in plastic and metal and a variety of
shapes and colors.
Shelf pins don't provide the fine adjustability that the metal shelf
standards do, but they work great for most situations.
Anthony
this is kinda where I was leaning, but wanted to get some other ideas
On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 14:23:00 GMT, HerHusband <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
>> shelf support to use?
>> The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.
>
>Can you drill 1/4" holes spaced every inch or so and use shelf pins to
>support the shelves? The pins come in plastic and metal and a variety of
>shapes and colors.
>
>Shelf pins don't provide the fine adjustability that the metal shelf
>standards do, but they work great for most situations.
>
>Anthony
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking and the is a ABPFurniture also.
On Fri, 03 Dec 2004 11:02:33 -0700,
[email protected] wrote:
>what is ABPW?
>
>yeah, I need to "see" it ;-)
On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 01:42:00 -0700,
[email protected] wrote:
>The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.
How about metal rail with clips ? I've seen one system that used a
narrow, deep channel-section rail that went into a groove and wasn't
visible from the front. Don't know where it came from though.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] wrote:
> for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
> shelf support to use?
>
> The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.
I posted a rendering in ABPW, I hope you can see it.
I use this design in all kinds of sizes.
Rob
the rails are out because I have already glued up the sides/tops and
installed the back ;-) I suppose I could route a groove but it would
be offset from the back by the router baseplate.
it's a very basic bookshelf, 48 high, 36 wide, 9 deep
from 2x pine building lumber, but selected for clear stock
basically it was a honey-do project that I chose to try out my biscuit
jointer, bandsaw (to resaw some parts), and router.
I resawed some 2x4s to get clear stock for the overhaning top and the
trim at the base.
So in light of "exploration", I'm looking for some interesting options
to support the shelves.
On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 12:24:07 GMT, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable
>> shelf support to use?
>>
>> The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.
>
>I generally use the slotted metal rails that I put into a routed channel,
>but if this is what you're say will not work, then how about a little more
>information. A better description of the project would be helpful, as would
>the reasons why various solutions would be inappropriate.
I'll be astounded if you can understand this from the description. I am
posting a pic of a shelf support in our old side-by-side on ABPW.
RonB
"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0lFrd.81200$EZ.60682@okepread07...
> If the bookshelf design is more traditional you might try movable cleats
> supported on forward and aft upright strips. The uprights will have
> corresponding raduis or 'sawtooth' cutouts every 2-3" to accept similar
> shaped cleat ends. You can put a dowel in the bottom of the shelf, near
> each end, to help contain the cleat in its vertical holder - a lot of them
> didn't even use this. This was used in a lot of the old side-by-sides,
> secretaries and other antique furniture and is pretty neat.
>
> RonB
>
>
>
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 19:43:59 -0500, "Upscale" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>
>"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:20859-41B0AFB7-10@storefull-
>>
>> But, don't know why one would want a bookshelf adjustable. Unless
>> it wasn't used for books. Moving books can be a major PITA.
>
>Maybe all the books aren't the same height and some shelves need to be
>adjusted to compensate. Or maybe the bookshelf might be configured for
>figurines or something in the future. I probably would have them adjustable
>either, but I can envision times when you might want it.
>
I usually build them adjustable unless there is a specific need
otherwise. it's easier....
On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 01:42:00 -0700,
[email protected] wrote:
>The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.
I like drilling 1 1/2" holes in a strip, ripping it in half, and
gluing it inside the case. A moving support is the fashioned to fit
into the slots between the 1/2 circles. The shelf sits on the
support.
Barry