Routers / Lifts

I've seen and played with the 890. It is the ONE you want!
John

On 12 Dec 2003 09:01:05 -0500, DJ Delorie <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>Greg G. writes:
>> On 11 Dec 2003 20:35:30 -0500, DJ Delorie <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >For example, my previous router table, used with a PC690 plunge router:
>> >
>> >http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/oldtable.jpg
>>
>> ^^ I hope that is a joke...
>
>No, I used that table for about ten years before I built the new one.
>It worked, it did all the things I needed it to do. It was just
>clumsy to use and not very accurate.

I was just reving you up a little bit... ;-)

Greg

stoutman wrote:
> A plunge router designed to be used in a router table.
>
> Sounds like an oxymoron.

Sorry I disagree. My router table has had both a fixed base and plunge
router in it, and the plunge router is superior.

Suppose you have to route a 3/4" deep dado in 16 pieces of wood. The depth
is critial, and you have to make multiple passes to do it.

You finish the job, and realize to your horror that you only did 15 of the
16 pieces. (I have been here with both a fixed base router and a plunge
router mounted in the table. <g>)

-- With a fixed base router, you have to make several passes, and measure
the depth of cut very carefully on the last one to make sure it's the same
depth.

-- With a plunge router, what the h*ll. The max depth is already set.
Drop the router down in the table to a good depth for the first cut, lock
the knob, and route the piece. Raise the height a bit, lock the knob, and
route again. Continue until you can't raise the router anymore because it's
at max. The depth of cut is EXACTLY the same as all the other pieces you
cut.

For the kind of mistakes I make <g> I can't image anything better in a
router table than a plunge router -- an arbitrary number of cuts in an
arbitrary number of pieces of wood to achieve the same depth of cut.

Besides that, the plunge router in a router table is easily made into a
pulley / rope / foot device that can plunge into a piece of wood heald
tightly against the fence. Only once have I tried to
"Carefully lower the piece of wood into the spinning router blade."
The wood jumped all over the place and I came close to bleeding all over the
nice clean router table, and leaving one or two of my fingers on the table.
Scared the snot out of me and I didn't spin the router again for over a
month.

Unless someone holds a gun to my head, and can PROVE that it's loaded <g> I
have no intention of EVER lowering a piece of wood onto a spinning router
bit again as long as I live. It's so trivial to hold the wood against the
fence, press down on a stick with my foot, and have the router bit SAFELY
plunge into the wood. ;-) Hold the wood, press with the foot, move the
wood, release the foot, lift the wood, TRIVIAL and SAFE!

No, IMHO, plunge routers are MADE for use in router tables. Flog me, beat
me, burn me, boil me, drown me, I won't recant. <g> Hahahahahaha.....

-- Mark

On Fri, 12 Dec 2003 02:08:41 GMT, Chris Merrill
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Run to your nearest Woodcraft and check out the Triton! Does everything
>you've mentioned...and doesn't need multiple bases to do it...

Well, I ran to my local distributor and checked out the Triton when it
first came out. Beside it was a stack of returns - and that kind of
put me off. Apparently they had a problem with the electronic speed
controller PCB, but I hear they corrected it, and I don't know if this
is still a problem. Combined with that experience, the custom
accessories, and the (then) $350 price tag...

By the same token, being from Australia, it would be a natural for
mounting down-under a router table... ;-)

Now if they could just get their toilets to flush in the proper
direction,...

Greg

I am new to this woodworking stuff (about a year) and I have read a lot of
contradicting info regarding the use of a plunge router in a table. Some
have posted that no problems result from their use in a table and others say
DON'T DO IT.

Read what Pat Warner (router man) says about using a plunge router in a
table:


"A plunge router is designed for hand held use. Its wide handled grip, motor
lock, spring loaded head, up and turret stops are all components that work
with gravity and in harmony with the operator's hand and eye. The tool is
especially valuable for multidepth inside hand cuttings where the cutter can
safely stab an excavation in the eye and handily waste it away; something a
fixed base router can only do at risk. To put this tool upside down in a
router table not only ignores its designers intent, its presence there
compromises the integrity of the work surface, frustrates the smooth travel
of the work and complicates the construction of the whole router-table. "


http://www.patwarner.com/plunge_or_fixed.html











<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 17:15:49 -0500, Greg G. wrote:
>
> >On 11 Dec 2003 13:11:29 -0500, DJ Delorie <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >>Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> writes:
> >>> I have a 16 TPI PRL with a PC7518. Can't find anything to complain
> >>> about. ... I use a cordless drill to raise/lower the router. for
> >>> fine adjustments, of course, I break out the supplied hand crank.
> >>
> >>I have a 32 TPI PRL, and haven't yet been so impatient as to consider
> >>using a drill to adjust it. OTOH, I have had occasion to take
> >>advantage of the full accuracy of the 32 TPI adjustment.
> >
> >Thanks Guys, but...
> >
> >I am aware that the PRL is the 'cat's meow', but I am trying to avoid
> >the purchase of such things. As mentioned in the OP, I am attempting
> >to find a router that will function in a table *without* the use of
> >such $300 niceties.
>
> ALL routers will work just fine in a table without any add-ons. pick a
> router in your budget with features you like for above and below the
> table and start making chips. router lifts are nice, gadgety things
> that make life a bit easier if you do a hell of a lot of router table
> work. you don't need one. I use a 10 year old freud 4HP plunge router
> in my table. it works just fine. I made a crank handle that pops on
> and off of the depth knob- makes adjusting the bit depth easier. cost
> was nothing. if you'd like I'll send you a picture.
>
>
>
>
>
> > That is why the interest in the PC890 and the
> >Milwaukee routers - they 'theoretically' allow router table use with
> >built in above the table height adjustments. Mfg web sites are not
> >much use, however, as they give little practical information. How
> >much range of adjustment? How difficult to change bits above the
> >table? What kind of accuracy? etc...
> >
> >This is a hobby, more than a business - and that $300 would be better
> >spent on a better table saw, for instance... Heck, I'm still trying
> >to save up enough $$$ to buy a decent bandsaw...
> >
> >Greg
>
>
>
> get the PC or the milwaukee or another one. go to a real tool store
> (not the borg) and look at a bunch of them side by side. spend the
> $300 on something other than a router lift. if you find yourself doing
> a lot of router table work you'll probably want a bigger router under
> the table and that PC will still be very nice above the table.
> Bridger

Greg wrote:
> I am looking for a new router - primarily for router table use,
> although it will also be used handheld with the second base which is
> included with many/most kits. Variable speed would be a nice
> addition. It would be preferable if at least one of the router base
> designs would eliminate the need for a table lift mechanism.

Run to your nearest Woodcraft and check out the Triton! Does everything
you've mentioned...and doesn't need multiple bases to do it...

--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************

Huh,

You make some good points.

I recant! :)




"Mark Jerde" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> stoutman wrote:
> > A plunge router designed to be used in a router table.
> >
> > Sounds like an oxymoron.
>
> Sorry I disagree. My router table has had both a fixed base and plunge
> router in it, and the plunge router is superior.
>
> Suppose you have to route a 3/4" deep dado in 16 pieces of wood. The
depth
> is critial, and you have to make multiple passes to do it.
>
> You finish the job, and realize to your horror that you only did 15 of the
> 16 pieces. (I have been here with both a fixed base router and a plunge
> router mounted in the table. <g>)
>
> -- With a fixed base router, you have to make several passes, and
measure
> the depth of cut very carefully on the last one to make sure it's the same
> depth.
>
> -- With a plunge router, what the h*ll. The max depth is already set.
> Drop the router down in the table to a good depth for the first cut, lock
> the knob, and route the piece. Raise the height a bit, lock the knob, and
> route again. Continue until you can't raise the router anymore because
it's
> at max. The depth of cut is EXACTLY the same as all the other pieces you
> cut.
>
> For the kind of mistakes I make <g> I can't image anything better in a
> router table than a plunge router -- an arbitrary number of cuts in an
> arbitrary number of pieces of wood to achieve the same depth of cut.
>
> Besides that, the plunge router in a router table is easily made into a
> pulley / rope / foot device that can plunge into a piece of wood heald
> tightly against the fence. Only once have I tried to
> "Carefully lower the piece of wood into the spinning router blade."
> The wood jumped all over the place and I came close to bleeding all over
the
> nice clean router table, and leaving one or two of my fingers on the
table.
> Scared the snot out of me and I didn't spin the router again for over a
> month.
>
> Unless someone holds a gun to my head, and can PROVE that it's loaded <g>
I
> have no intention of EVER lowering a piece of wood onto a spinning router
> bit again as long as I live. It's so trivial to hold the wood against the
> fence, press down on a stick with my foot, and have the router bit SAFELY
> plunge into the wood. ;-) Hold the wood, press with the foot, move the
> wood, release the foot, lift the wood, TRIVIAL and SAFE!
>
> No, IMHO, plunge routers are MADE for use in router tables. Flog me, beat
> me, burn me, boil me, drown me, I won't recant. <g> Hahahahahaha.....
>
> -- Mark
>
>
>

A plunge router designed to be used in a router table.

Sounds like an oxymoron.


"Chris Merrill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> stoutman wrote:
> > Read what Pat Warner (router man) says about using a plunge router in a
> > table:
> >
> > "A plunge router is designed for hand held use.
>
> That was written years ago. Since then several routers have come on
> the market that were _designed_ to be used under a table - including
> two Milwaukee models, the PC 890 series and the Triton.
>
> Try to keep up with the times!
>
> --
> ************************************
> Chris Merrill
> [email protected]
> (remove the ZZZ to contact me)
> ************************************
>

:) I'm a impatient kinda guy, which is why they made the 16 TPI version.
I too, take full advantage of the accuracy of the PRL, which is a
gnat's ass. I don't need it any more accurate than it is. With ZERO
backlash in the chain drive, I can easily set it within .001. Didn't we
go over this months ago?? :)

dave

DJ Delorie wrote:

> Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> writes:
>
>>I have a 16 TPI PRL with a PC7518. Can't find anything to complain
>>about. ... I use a cordless drill to raise/lower the router. for
>>fine adjustments, of course, I break out the supplied hand crank.
>
>
> I have a 32 TPI PRL, and haven't yet been so impatient as to consider
> using a drill to adjust it. OTOH, I have had occasion to take
> advantage of the full accuracy of the 32 TPI adjustment.

On Thu, 11 Dec 2003 17:15:49 -0500, Greg G. wrote:

>On 11 Dec 2003 13:11:29 -0500, DJ Delorie <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> writes:
>>> I have a 16 TPI PRL with a PC7518. Can't find anything to complain
>>> about. ... I use a cordless drill to raise/lower the router. for
>>> fine adjustments, of course, I break out the supplied hand crank.
>>
>>I have a 32 TPI PRL, and haven't yet been so impatient as to consider
>>using a drill to adjust it. OTOH, I have had occasion to take
>>advantage of the full accuracy of the 32 TPI adjustment.
>
>Thanks Guys, but...
>
>I am aware that the PRL is the 'cat's meow', but I am trying to avoid
>the purchase of such things. As mentioned in the OP, I am attempting
>to find a router that will function in a table *without* the use of
>such $300 niceties.

ALL routers will work just fine in a table without any add-ons. pick a
router in your budget with features you like for above and below the
table and start making chips. router lifts are nice, gadgety things
that make life a bit easier if you do a hell of a lot of router table
work. you don't need one. I use a 10 year old freud 4HP plunge router
in my table. it works just fine. I made a crank handle that pops on
and off of the depth knob- makes adjusting the bit depth easier. cost
was nothing. if you'd like I'll send you a picture.





> That is why the interest in the PC890 and the
>Milwaukee routers - they 'theoretically' allow router table use with
>built in above the table height adjustments. Mfg web sites are not
>much use, however, as they give little practical information. How
>much range of adjustment? How difficult to change bits above the
>table? What kind of accuracy? etc...
>
>This is a hobby, more than a business - and that $300 would be better
>spent on a better table saw, for instance... Heck, I'm still trying
>to save up enough $$$ to buy a decent bandsaw...
>
>Greg



get the PC or the milwaukee or another one. go to a real tool store
(not the borg) and look at a bunch of them side by side. spend the
$300 on something other than a router lift. if you find yourself doing
a lot of router table work you'll probably want a bigger router under
the table and that PC will still be very nice above the table.
Bridger

On 11 Dec 2003 20:35:30 -0500, DJ Delorie <[email protected]> wrote:

>[email protected] writes:
>> ALL routers will work just fine in a table without any add-ons.
>
>For example, my previous router table, used with a PC690 plunge router:
>
>http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/oldtable.jpg


^^ I hope that is a joke...

That is what I get for changing nyms...
Everyone assumes the newbie is a moron. :-|

I can tell this is getting COMPLETELY out of hand, and off topic.
Perhaps I should have been more specific and precise in my query.

I currently HAVE a homemade router table made with 1/4" steel plate,
and a crappy plunge router - albeit one with excessive play in the
mechanism and a bit underpowered. It works, but is somewhat
inaccurate. I built a height adjuster out of threaded rod and steel
tubing, and put a handle on it. It works O.K., but the slop in the
plunge mechanism makes accurate adjustment a bit iffy. Differing feed
pressure can produce different results, etc.

What I am trying to do is increase accuracy and repeatability by
buying a NEW router, and gain the ability to precisely adjust the bit
height from above the table, change bits above the table, and have
minimal slop in the mechanism - without 'plunging' another $300 for a
Mast-R-Lift. I don't want to have to reach under the table into the
dust collection box to adjust height, or pull the router motor for bit
changes.

With this in mind...
Several router MFGs are touting their routers as being able to perform
these tasks. i.e.- Porter Cable 890 series, Milwaukee, etc.

Has anyone actually USED one of these routers, and if so, how do they
perform as a top adjusting, table mounted router?
How much adjustment depth (range)?
How easy are the bit changes?

Thanks, (I think...)
Greg
(Dr. Know)

On 11 Dec 2003 13:11:29 -0500, DJ Delorie <[email protected]> wrote:

>Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> writes:
>> I have a 16 TPI PRL with a PC7518. Can't find anything to complain
>> about. ... I use a cordless drill to raise/lower the router. for
>> fine adjustments, of course, I break out the supplied hand crank.
>
>I have a 32 TPI PRL, and haven't yet been so impatient as to consider
>using a drill to adjust it. OTOH, I have had occasion to take
>advantage of the full accuracy of the 32 TPI adjustment.

Thanks Guys, but...

I am aware that the PRL is the 'cat's meow', but I am trying to avoid
the purchase of such things. As mentioned in the OP, I am attempting
to find a router that will function in a table *without* the use of
such $300 niceties. That is why the interest in the PC890 and the
Milwaukee routers - they 'theoretically' allow router table use with
built in above the table height adjustments. Mfg web sites are not
much use, however, as they give little practical information. How
much range of adjustment? How difficult to change bits above the
table? What kind of accuracy? etc...

This is a hobby, more than a business - and that $300 would be better
spent on a better table saw, for instance... Heck, I'm still trying
to save up enough $$$ to buy a decent bandsaw...

Greg

On Fri, 12 Dec 2003 19:23:47 -0500, Terry Sumner <[email protected]>
wrote:

>If you can somewhere, go check out the Milwaukee 5625-20 three and a
>half horsepower unit.

Yes, I considered it, but the price and weight kind of put me off.
I do have a couple of Milwaukee tools, and they are all fine - unlike
the B&D and Skil crap I have been given (and returned) over the
years...

Just when I get totally fed up with Delta/PC quality and service and
start shopping elsewhere, they will do something to make up for it.
Hopefully the PC890 is such an effort, and it better be Made In U.S.A.

Greg

If you can somewhere, go check out the Milwaukee 5625-20 three and a
half horsepower unit.

This is truly a great router and ideal for under a table. Electronic
variable speed, which keeps the RPM's at the speed you initially set,
soft start, and a really nice above-the-table height adjustment
feature. Comes with both collets and 2 sub-bases...one eith the PC
size hole for the PC system of bushings.

In my (now-soon-to-be-gone) job at a WWW store, I've gotten to use a
bunch of routers in my demos for customers and woodworking classes I
was teaching. This includes all the PC's, Triton, Makita, DeWalt,
Bosch and Milwaukee's. Since the darn stores are all going out of
business and I won't have the in-store shop to work in anymore, I
found myself wanting to purchase a new router for my own shop,

The 3 1/2 horse Milwaukee was my head and shoulders above the rest
choice.

But ANY of the other routers mentioned by the other posters will do
the job. IMHO, it just comes down to which one YOU like the feel of
the best.

Terry Sumner

On Fri, 12 Dec 2003 02:18:17 GMT, "stoutman" <[email protected]> wrote:

>I am new to this woodworking stuff (about a year) and I have read a lot of
>contradicting info regarding the use of a plunge router in a table. Some
>have posted that no problems result from their use in a table and others say
>DON'T DO IT.
>
>Read what Pat Warner (router man) says about using a plunge router in a
>table:
>
>
>"A plunge router is designed for hand held use. Its wide handled grip, motor
>lock, spring loaded head, up and turret stops are all components that work
>with gravity and in harmony with the operator's hand and eye. The tool is
>especially valuable for multidepth inside hand cuttings where the cutter can
>safely stab an excavation in the eye and handily waste it away; something a
>fixed base router can only do at risk. To put this tool upside down in a
>router table not only ignores its designers intent, its presence there
>compromises the integrity of the work surface, frustrates the smooth travel
>of the work and complicates the construction of the whole router-table. "
>
>
>http://www.patwarner.com/plunge_or_fixed.html



whether or not to put a plunge router in a table is one of those
religious issue kind of things. Some folks will lambast you for it-
but enough woodworkers like it that the router makers have started
including table specific features in their plunge routers.


Pat Warner is a very competent woodworker who has made his specialty
in the field of routers- he's very knowledgeable, very generous with
his knowledge and certainly one of the best sources of information
around. his religious persuasion just happens to be of the no plunge
routers in the table variety. I'm not even saying he's wrong, just
that my personal experience with using my plunge router in my table
doesn't bear out the statements you quoted from his site.

I have 2 router tables (more or less). one has a plunge router in it,
the other has a fixed base router in it. I use them for different
things, although that has more to do with the size of the motors than
whether they plunge or not.

Bridger

stoutman wrote:
> Read what Pat Warner (router man) says about using a plunge router in a
> table:
>
> "A plunge router is designed for hand held use.

That was written years ago. Since then several routers have come on
the market that were _designed_ to be used under a table - including
two Milwaukee models, the PC 890 series and the Triton.

Try to keep up with the times!

--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************

I am also looking at buying a new router for a router table.

I am considering the Milwaukee 5616-20
It has more power (2.25 hp, 13 amp) than the 5615-21 and it is not that much
more expensive.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00009LI4L/103-9447778-3741463
?v=glance




<Greg G.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Well, I've read about routers until my head should explode, and still
> have no practical experience on which to base a decision.
>
> I am looking for a new router - primarily for router table use,
> although it will also be used handheld with the second base which is
> included with many/most kits. Variable speed would be a nice
> addition. It would be preferable if at least one of the router base
> designs would eliminate the need for a table lift mechanism.
>
> The PC 890 kit looks interesting, and seems to allow one to dismiss
> the need for a router lift. This would be a savings of $200-$300 on
> the cost of purchasing a Rockwell or Jessem Mast-R-Lift. Or am I in
> error on this? I can't look at one personally, as the local
> distributors apparently won't have this until after Christmas. Then
> there is the 'new model' syndrome, where the customer provides beta
> testing for new tools...
>
> I looked briefly at the Milwaukee 5615-21, but it didn't seem as
> versatile or well made. Do they hold up? How do they perform in a
> router table?
>
> Any other brands/models I am unaware of that might meet this criteria?
>
> Any input is appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Greg
>

"IMHO, it just comes down to which one YOU like the feel of
> the best."

-Not to mention how many Benjamins you walk in the door with. :)
The 5625-20 is not a cheap router.



"Terry Sumner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you can somewhere, go check out the Milwaukee 5625-20 three and a
> half horsepower unit.
>
> This is truly a great router and ideal for under a table. Electronic
> variable speed, which keeps the RPM's at the speed you initially set,
> soft start, and a really nice above-the-table height adjustment
> feature. Comes with both collets and 2 sub-bases...one eith the PC
> size hole for the PC system of bushings.
>
> In my (now-soon-to-be-gone) job at a WWW store, I've gotten to use a
> bunch of routers in my demos for customers and woodworking classes I
> was teaching. This includes all the PC's, Triton, Makita, DeWalt,
> Bosch and Milwaukee's. Since the darn stores are all going out of
> business and I won't have the in-store shop to work in anymore, I
> found myself wanting to purchase a new router for my own shop,
>
> The 3 1/2 horse Milwaukee was my head and shoulders above the rest
> choice.
>
> But ANY of the other routers mentioned by the other posters will do
> the job. IMHO, it just comes down to which one YOU like the feel of
> the best.
>
> Terry Sumner

On 11 Dec 2003 20:35:30 -0500, DJ Delorie <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>[email protected] writes:
>> ALL routers will work just fine in a table without any add-ons.
>
>For example, my previous router table, used with a PC690 plunge router:
>
>http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/oldtable.jpg



I recommend a table like that as a first router table. use it for a
while and figure out what features you want, what size top, what
height, etc.... then build that and repeat the process. in no time
you'll have a router table that actually suits how you work.
Bridger

And just exactly which way does the water swirl when you flush???

--
This space for rent.
Jerry© The Phoneman®
<Greg G.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 12 Dec 2003 02:08:41 GMT, Chris Merrill
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Run to your nearest Woodcraft and check out the Triton! Does everything
> >you've mentioned...and doesn't need multiple bases to do it...
>
> Well, I ran to my local distributor and checked out the Triton when it
> first came out. Beside it was a stack of returns - and that kind of
> put me off. Apparently they had a problem with the electronic speed
> controller PCB, but I hear they corrected it, and I don't know if this
> is still a problem. Combined with that experience, the custom
> accessories, and the (then) $350 price tag...
>
> By the same token, being from Australia, it would be a natural for
> mounting down-under a router table... ;-)
>
> Now if they could just get their toilets to flush in the proper
> direction,...
>
> Greg
>

I have a 16 TPI PRL with a PC7518. Can't find anything to complain
about. As a matter of fact, the only person I can recall who has a bad
word to say about the PRL anywhere in the western world is Keeter;
ignore him. :) I use a cordless drill to raise/lower the router. for
fine adjustments, of course, I break out the supplied hand crank.

dave

Greg wrote:

> Well, I've read about routers until my head should explode, and still
> have no practical experience on which to base a decision.
>
> I am looking for a new router - primarily for router table use,
> although it will also be used handheld with the second base which is
> included with many/most kits. Variable speed would be a nice
> addition. It would be preferable if at least one of the router base
> designs would eliminate the need for a table lift mechanism.
>
> The PC 890 kit looks interesting, and seems to allow one to dismiss
> the need for a router lift. This would be a savings of $200-$300 on
> the cost of purchasing a Rockwell or Jessem Mast-R-Lift. Or am I in
> error on this? I can't look at one personally, as the local
> distributors apparently won't have this until after Christmas. Then
> there is the 'new model' syndrome, where the customer provides beta
> testing for new tools...
>
> I looked briefly at the Milwaukee 5615-21, but it didn't seem as
> versatile or well made. Do they hold up? How do they perform in a
> router table?
>
> Any other brands/models I am unaware of that might meet this criteria?
>
> Any input is appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Greg
>

Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> writes:
> I have a 16 TPI PRL with a PC7518. Can't find anything to complain
> about. ... I use a cordless drill to raise/lower the router. for
> fine adjustments, of course, I break out the supplied hand crank.

I have a 32 TPI PRL, and haven't yet been so impatient as to consider
using a drill to adjust it. OTOH, I have had occasion to take
advantage of the full accuracy of the 32 TPI adjustment.

Greg G. writes:
> On 11 Dec 2003 20:35:30 -0500, DJ Delorie <[email protected]> wrote:
> >For example, my previous router table, used with a PC690 plunge router:
> >
> >http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/oldtable.jpg
>
> ^^ I hope that is a joke...

No, I used that table for about ten years before I built the new one.
It worked, it did all the things I needed it to do. It was just
clumsy to use and not very accurate.

[email protected] writes:
> ALL routers will work just fine in a table without any add-ons.

For example, my previous router table, used with a PC690 plunge router:

http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/oldtable.jpg

Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> writes:
> Didn't we go over this months ago?? :)

Probably ;-)