get "Setting Tile" by Michael Byrne.
The only way to make a counter tile job last is to use cement backer board.
Make a sandwich of 5/8" or 3/4" exterior grade CD plywood, then a layer of
backer board (wonder or durock) of 1/4" - 1/2" depending on your final
counter target thickness. Secure the cement board to the plywood with a layer
of latex modified thinset (Versabond at the HD is good) followed by cad
plated drywall screws (gold colored) spaced every 8". Lay your tiles on top
of this surface with the same thinset (caulk the joint between the counter
and backsplash with a good silicon sealer before each layer of backer board
and tile)
The biggest gripe with tile counters is the grout turning nasty. The best bet
is to use epoxy grout (latticrete) but it is difficult to work with. At the
very least use a sealer monthly.
-Bruce
NO! Not even close. Go to this link: http://www.usg.com/brands/drck.asp
It is a cementitious underlayment for laying tiles. Use it in a shower
for the walls, on the ceiling, on the floor. Use 1/2 for walls, 3/8 for
counter tops, 3/8 or 1/4 for floors if you need it low as possible to
mate up with surrounding floor coverings.
dave
Faustino Dina wrote:
>>(Durock is one brand name - comes in at least 3 thicknesses: 1/4
>>3/8 1/2)
>
> Is Durock the same as Sheetrock?
>
>
>
>
>
don't use mdf either
Faustino Dina wrote:
>>I'd stay away from particle board though. I hate that stuff. OSB, maybe,
>>sometimes, MDF probably, but particle board? Bleah.
>
>
> But it is supposed particleboard is more ressistant to the water than
> MDF. Is it? That is why I selected particleboard to the top.
yep. this is a good beginner to intermediate tile setting book. clear
and to the point.
Bridger
On Mon, 08 Dec 2003 21:53:28 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>if you aren't familiar with these products I urge you to pick up a copy
>of "Setting Tile" by Michael Byrne. You might become an expert if you
>read it from cover to cover.
>
>dave
>
>Faustino Dina wrote:
>
>>>(Durock is one brand name - comes in at least 3 thicknesses: 1/4
>>>3/8 1/2)
>>
>> Is Durock the same as Sheetrock?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
use water resistant ply (3/4" or better) for strength and then backer
board (Durock is one brand name - comes in at least 3 thicknesses: 1/4
3/8 1/2) on top of that. use thinset with a latex additive for
additional moisture resistance. DON'T USE PB!
dave
Faustino Dina wrote:
>>I'd tend to use plywood rather than particle board. Particle board is
>>prone to sagging with a permanent "set" under load, and it aslo hates
>>water. Depends what you're making...
>
>
> I'm making the tops of kitchen's base cabinets, including one for the
> sink. The tiles are wide, 19.3 inches each side, so they rest on the
> walls of the cabinets so I hope the particleboard top will not get all
> the load. My first concern is the long term reaction of the
> particleboard to the glue's humidity. My hope is to seal enought the
> space between splits that the sink's water will not reach the
> particleboard underneath. So I was thinking that may be a water
> ressistant glue such as epoxies could' seal the particleboard surface
> as well as glue the tiles. Is it?
Wonderboard is ANOTHER brand of cementitious underlayment. Both of
these are waterproof. cement and fiberglass panels you score and snap
kinda like sheetrock, but the product isn't like sheetrock.
dave
Faustino Dina wrote:
>>(Durock is one brand name - comes in at least 3 thicknesses: 1/4
>>3/8 1/2)
>
> Is Durock the same as Sheetrock?
>
>
>
>
>
"Faustino Dina" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
|
| Is Durock the same as Sheetrock?
Simple answer? No. Sheetrock and Durock are both trade names for various
materials and so we have to be careful to know what you're really asking.
Sheetrock typically means a sandwich of a gypsum core surrounded by a heavy
paper lining, used for walls and ceilings. The common term for this is
"drywall". There is a type of drywall with a green outer lining that is
approved for use as wall and ceiling facing material in high humidity
environments such as kitchens and bathrooms. It is not water-PROOF, which
is why it cannot be used for surfaces destined for splashing or standing
water.
Durock is a trade name for a sandwich of synthetic fiber and a type of
ceramic. The other common trade name for this type of material is
Wonderboard. In many U.S. jurisdictions it is the only approved material to
which ceramic tile can be bonded, and this may be in the national code now.
--Jay
mastic
"Faustino Dina" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> I want to put a ceramic tile top over a particleboard base. Which glue
> should I use to stick the tile to the wood?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> --
> Faustino Dina
> --------------------------------------------------------
> If my email address starts with two 'f'
> drop the first 'f' when mailing me.
>
>
Thanks you Dave, you really cleared my mind... I even localized two Durock
providers on my area. I was asking about Sheetrock 'cause it is a
remodelation going on at my office and I'm really amazed how easy and fast
the guys are creating new walls with sheetrock and the smootheness of the
final surface. Nice materials.
Thanks
Faustino
sure! Bruce mentioned additional details like using thinset (modified)
under the Durock to secure it to the plywood. That is how I do it also.
I use the screws designed for Durock, available at HD. Only use the
square drive version; the others will cam out. Make the thinset thinner
for this, then when you set the tiles; otherwise the durock will be
wavy. The screws will pull it tight, but if the thinset is too thick,
between the screws it will be bowed up.
dave
Faustino Dina wrote:
> Thanks you Dave, you really cleared my mind... I even localized two Durock
> providers on my area. I was asking about Sheetrock 'cause it is a
> remodelation going on at my office and I'm really amazed how easy and fast
> the guys are creating new walls with sheetrock and the smootheness of the
> final surface. Nice materials.
>
> Thanks
> Faustino
>
>
>
"Faustino Dina" <[email protected]> wrote
> Hi,
>
> I want to put a ceramic tile top over a particleboard base. Which glue
> should I use to stick the tile to the wood?
>
> Thanks in advance
It is not recommended to put tile on a PB base. If you must do it use
ceramic tile adhesive. It would be better to glue and screw tile
backer board to the base first using all purpose adhesive spread with
a notched trowel.
Mike
> I'd tend to use plywood rather than particle board. Particle board is
> prone to sagging with a permanent "set" under load, and it aslo hates
> water. Depends what you're making...
I'm making the tops of kitchen's base cabinets, including one for the
sink. The tiles are wide, 19.3 inches each side, so they rest on the
walls of the cabinets so I hope the particleboard top will not get all
the load. My first concern is the long term reaction of the
particleboard to the glue's humidity. My hope is to seal enought the
space between splits that the sink's water will not reach the
particleboard underneath. So I was thinking that may be a water
ressistant glue such as epoxies could' seal the particleboard surface
as well as glue the tiles. Is it?
don't bother. particle board, chipboard,mdf... all of those are going
to be a 1 or 2 year product in that location. if you're looking to
slap it together as cheap as possible for quick sale, well, you're on
your own. if this is supposed to last, use the right stuff.
deck: exterior grade plywood.
vapor barrier: black builder's paper of tyvek.
setting surface: cementitious tile backer board.
adhesive: thinset.
I really suggest that you do more research before you get started....
Bridger
On 8 Dec 2003 06:31:21 -0800, [email protected] (Faustino Dina)
wrote:
>> I'd tend to use plywood rather than particle board. Particle board is
>> prone to sagging with a permanent "set" under load, and it aslo hates
>> water. Depends what you're making...
>
>I'm making the tops of kitchen's base cabinets, including one for the
>sink. The tiles are wide, 19.3 inches each side, so they rest on the
>walls of the cabinets so I hope the particleboard top will not get all
>the load. My first concern is the long term reaction of the
>particleboard to the glue's humidity. My hope is to seal enought the
>space between splits that the sink's water will not reach the
>particleboard underneath. So I was thinking that may be a water
>ressistant glue such as epoxies could' seal the particleboard surface
>as well as glue the tiles. Is it?
On 8 Dec 2003 06:31:21 -0800, [email protected] (Faustino Dina)
wrote:
>I'm making the tops of kitchen's base cabinets, including one for the
>sink.
OK, as a minimum you need to look at good grades of water-resistant
plywood. For a sink surround, you need to use a good grade where you
either read the markings on the sheet yourself, or you trust the
supplier, because a lot of "waterproof" plywood is anything but. And
remember that it's _your_ phone number the customer has !
Then standard tile adhesive and a waterproof (bathroom grade) grout
will work fine.
Another material that's worth looking at is Aquapanel (a UK brand).
This is a "cement and fibreglass" board that handles like heavier
drywall, but is especially suited to making shower enclosures. It's
not especially strong (support it wth plywood underneath) but it
really doesn't mind water long-term. I've used it for outdoor raised
garden ponds - butyl rubber liner inside, tiled outside.
You _really_ don't want to use particle board or MDF on a job like
this. Two years down the line and the client is going to hate you...
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
Andy Dingley wrote:
> I'd tend to use plywood rather than particle board. Particle board is
> prone to sagging with a permanent "set" under load, and it aslo hates
> water. Depends what you're making...
I think I'd stay away from any water-based adhesive on particle board if it
were me. You ain't just whistling Dixie when you say that it hates water.
I'm thinking I might use some kind of Liquid Nails product in a caulk tube.
Some solvent based sticks on your clothes, wash after wash type thing.
I'd stay away from particle board though. I hate that stuff. OSB, maybe,
sometimes, MDF probably, but particle board? Bleah.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
Stay away from anything water based. Bare minimum you should seal the
particle board for better adhesion. If you want to do it the right way,
you should glue and screw cement backer board to the part board (i.e.
Durock) and then use thinset to adhere the tiles to the backer board. I
hope this isn't for a kitchen counter?
Faustino Dina wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I want to put a ceramic tile top over a particleboard base. Which glue
> should I use to stick the tile to the wood?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
if you aren't familiar with these products I urge you to pick up a copy
of "Setting Tile" by Michael Byrne. You might become an expert if you
read it from cover to cover.
dave
Faustino Dina wrote:
>>(Durock is one brand name - comes in at least 3 thicknesses: 1/4
>>3/8 1/2)
>
> Is Durock the same as Sheetrock?
>
>
>
>
>
On Sat, 6 Dec 2003 15:13:50 -0600, "Faustino Dina"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I want to put a ceramic tile top over a particleboard base. Which glue
>should I use to stick the tile to the wood?
Almost anything. Tiles are porous (on the back), which makes them easy
to glue.
Personally I use normal tile adhesive, same as you'd use to stick them
to a wall. Grout afterwards with the standard tile grout.
I've seen others use white PVA (the cheap builder's grade, not
woodworker's, because it needs to be thick and you use plenty of it).
I've even seen polyurethane glue used.
I'd tend to use plywood rather than particle board. Particle board is
prone to sagging with a permanent "set" under load, and it aslo hates
water. Depends what you're making...
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods