I've been restoring antique radios as a hobby for a number of years, and
have had reasonably good success using Minwax stains and coatings. But one
problem that has always bugged me is the inability to match the depth of the
original color. On most cabinets from the 40s and earlier, the coloring is
in the finish itself - the wood itself is not stained at all.
A fellow radio enthusiast has told me that Mohawk toners are what the
professionals use to replicate the original deep, rich color. I'm
considering ordering some of these but first, I'd like some advice. First of
all, which kind? There are pigment-based and dye-based, and perhaps others
just from Mohawk alone. Second, is the toner spray enough to produce the
desired effect, or should the wood also be stained prior to toning? And
finally, is there a better way to make a thick, rich-looking top coat other
than applying 6-8 coats of conventional finish?
This is obviously going to take some practice so I could use any advice I
can get.
--
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"Chris F." wrote in message
> I've been restoring antique radios as a hobby for a number of years, and
> have had reasonably good success using Minwax stains and coatings. But one
> problem that has always bugged me is the inability to match the depth of
the
> original color. On most cabinets from the 40s and earlier, the coloring is
> in the finish itself - the wood itself is not stained at all.
> This is obviously going to take some practice so I could use any advice
I
> can get.
IIRC, there is a guy that posted recently on abpw named "Stewart Schooley",
who posted some masterful restoration work he does on antique radios. The
subject had to do with "Roll top desks..." and it was around the first week
of the month.
You might want to head over there and see if your news server still has them
retained, or at least DAGS the name and see if you can contact him.
Would be worth it, IIRC.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/06/07
You can use dyes from Homestead finishing (Transtint) and they can be
added to most clear finishes such as lacquer, poly, shellac. Mix it
darker and you need fewer coats. Getting even coats is very important
and that is one reason to go with a lighter mix and more coats so
mistakes are less dramatic and can be evened out with subsequent coats.
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm
Chris F. wrote:
> I've been restoring antique radios as a hobby for a number of years, and
> have had reasonably good success using Minwax stains and coatings. But one
> problem that has always bugged me is the inability to match the depth of the
> original color. On most cabinets from the 40s and earlier, the coloring is
> in the finish itself - the wood itself is not stained at all.
> A fellow radio enthusiast has told me that Mohawk toners are what the
> professionals use to replicate the original deep, rich color. I'm
> considering ordering some of these but first, I'd like some advice. First of
> all, which kind? There are pigment-based and dye-based, and perhaps others
> just from Mohawk alone. Second, is the toner spray enough to produce the
> desired effect, or should the wood also be stained prior to toning? And
> finally, is there a better way to make a thick, rich-looking top coat other
> than applying 6-8 coats of conventional finish?
> This is obviously going to take some practice so I could use any advice I
> can get.
>
> --
> To reply via Email, remove NOSPAM from the address
You can use dyes from Homestead finishing (Transtint) and they can be
added to most clear finishes such as lacquer, poly, shellac. Mix it
darker and you need fewer coats. Getting even coats is very important
and that is one reason to go with a lighter mix and more coats so
mistakes are less dramatic and can be evened out with subsequent coats.
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm
Chris F. wrote:
> I've been restoring antique radios as a hobby for a number of years, and
> have had reasonably good success using Minwax stains and coatings. But one
> problem that has always bugged me is the inability to match the depth of the
> original color. On most cabinets from the 40s and earlier, the coloring is
> in the finish itself - the wood itself is not stained at all.
> A fellow radio enthusiast has told me that Mohawk toners are what the
> professionals use to replicate the original deep, rich color. I'm
> considering ordering some of these but first, I'd like some advice. First of
> all, which kind? There are pigment-based and dye-based, and perhaps others
> just from Mohawk alone. Second, is the toner spray enough to produce the
> desired effect, or should the wood also be stained prior to toning? And
> finally, is there a better way to make a thick, rich-looking top coat other
> than applying 6-8 coats of conventional finish?
> This is obviously going to take some practice so I could use any advice I
> can get.
>
> --
> To reply via Email, remove NOSPAM from the address
You can use dyes from Homestead finishing (Transtint) and they can be
added to most clear finishes such as lacquer, poly, shellac. Mix it
darker and you need fewer coats. Getting even coats is very important
and that is one reason to go with a lighter mix and more coats so
mistakes are less dramatic and can be evened out with subsequent coats.
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm
Chris F. wrote:
> I've been restoring antique radios as a hobby for a number of years, and
> have had reasonably good success using Minwax stains and coatings. But one
> problem that has always bugged me is the inability to match the depth of the
> original color. On most cabinets from the 40s and earlier, the coloring is
> in the finish itself - the wood itself is not stained at all.
> A fellow radio enthusiast has told me that Mohawk toners are what the
> professionals use to replicate the original deep, rich color. I'm
> considering ordering some of these but first, I'd like some advice. First of
> all, which kind? There are pigment-based and dye-based, and perhaps others
> just from Mohawk alone. Second, is the toner spray enough to produce the
> desired effect, or should the wood also be stained prior to toning? And
> finally, is there a better way to make a thick, rich-looking top coat other
> than applying 6-8 coats of conventional finish?
> This is obviously going to take some practice so I could use any advice I
> can get.
>
> --
> To reply via Email, remove NOSPAM from the address
Chris, if you're interested in foreign makes, I have a Grundig console,
ca. 1960s I think, from Germany, you can have... free. I tried giving
it away a year ago via online sites, but no takers. It's a nice
console in good shape, that why I haven't junked it. The stereo still
works. The turntable needs work...no needle and no needle casing. If
you know of anyone that might be interested in this sort of thing, I
prefer giving it away, rather than tossing it out. Pics are readily
obtainable, if need be.
Sonny
On Fri, 19 Jan 2007 15:13:41 -0600, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Chris F." wrote in message
>> I've been restoring antique radios as a hobby for a number of years, and
>> have had reasonably good success using Minwax stains and coatings. But one
>> problem that has always bugged me is the inability to match the depth of
>the
>> original color. On most cabinets from the 40s and earlier, the coloring is
>> in the finish itself - the wood itself is not stained at all.
>
>> This is obviously going to take some practice so I could use any advice
>I
>> can get.
>
>IIRC, there is a guy that posted recently on abpw named "Stewart Schooley",
>who posted some masterful restoration work he does on antique radios. The
>subject had to do with "Roll top desks..." and it was around the first week
>of the month.
>
>You might want to head over there and see if your news server still has them
>retained, or at least DAGS the name and see if you can contact him.
>
>Would be worth it, IIRC.
try here: http://pages.cthome.net/ptf/photofin/photofinish.html
Thanks but I think I'll pass, I have one of those myself in really nice
shape and I don't think it's of any greater value. I could pick it up if you
lived in NB, otherwise the shipping would be too expensive.
"Sonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Chris, if you're interested in foreign makes, I have a Grundig console,
> ca. 1960s I think, from Germany, you can have... free. I tried giving
> it away a year ago via online sites, but no takers. It's a nice
> console in good shape, that why I haven't junked it. The stereo still
> works. The turntable needs work...no needle and no needle casing. If
> you know of anyone that might be interested in this sort of thing, I
> prefer giving it away, rather than tossing it out. Pics are readily
> obtainable, if need be.
>
> Sonny
>