I used the 12 inch grey painted brackets that screw directly to the
wall and ment to hold shelves. They are $1.27 or so at the borg.
Placed ever other stud they will hold a lot of weight. I have three
rows of four each of these and they are holding over 1/2 load of a
small pickup truck of oak. Of course they are not adjustable but the
price is right.
Ken Johnsen wrote:
> "shooter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Woodcraft has this model
>>http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3931
>>for about $165.00. I need to be able to go up against a wall like this
>>one does. Has anyone used this or has another option I should
>>consider?
>
>
> Can't remember where I saw it on the web, but I built a rack out of 3
> vertical 2x4s attached to the floor & ceiling joists. 3' apart (like wall
> studs).
>
> Drilled 1" holes, 16" apart, in the edges at 5 degree angle (pointing up -
> prevents stock from slipping off) and slipped 12" lengths of 1" pipe into
> the holes
>
> Ken
>
>
Was this plumbing pipe or EMT? I seem to recall one using EMT but can't
find it again. I need a rack but only want to make it once.
Joe
Ken Johnsen wrote:
> "Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:42d2b6f3$0$18650$1> >
> Can't remember where I saw it on the web, but I built a rack out of 3
>
>>>vertical 2x4s attached to the floor & ceiling joists. 3' apart (like
>
> wall
>
>>>studs).
>>>
>>>Drilled 1" holes, 16" apart, in the edges at 5 degree angle (pointing
>
> up -
>
>>>prevents stock from slipping off) and slipped 12" lengths of 1" pipe
>
> into
>
>>>the holes
>>>
>>>Ken
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Was this plumbing pipe or EMT? I seem to recall one using EMT but can't
>>find it again. I need a rack but only want to make it once.
>
>
> I used iron pipe, per the instructions. Just checked and it's 7/8" od 5/8"
> id
>
>
Thanks, time to get out the crowbar, small, and start organizing the
shed. Then I work on the upgrade from shop to studio.
Joe
Patriarch wrote:
> Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> <snip>
>
>>Thanks, time to get out the crowbar, small, and start organizing the
>>shed. Then I work on the upgrade from shop to studio.
>
>
> The upgrade from shop to studio is one of the mind, the heart, and your
> skillsets.
>
> Some of the better artists I've met have much more modest facilities than
> I.
>
> Patriarch,
> working on it...
Yes, I need to change from coll^H^H^H^H gathering handplanes and put
them to use, and resume practicing hand cut dovetails.
I have managed to acquire a potential benchtop. Live oak slab 5" x 24"
x 5'. Just need to trim the ends and design a support structure to hold
it. I'm ignoring the 'how to lift it to the top of the legs' for now.
Joe
Patriarch wrote:
> Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> <snip>
>
>>I have managed to acquire a potential benchtop. Live oak slab 5" x
>>24" x 5'. Just need to trim the ends and design a support structure
>>to hold it. I'm ignoring the 'how to lift it to the top of the legs'
>>for now. Joe
>>
>
>
> Couple of stumps would look cool...
The one big piece available weighs about 10,000 lbs.4'+/- across and
10'+ tall. I do have a 6' crosscut saw that might be able to cut it, if
there was a way to set it on blocks to do the cutting, assuming I could
last long enough for the 4 cuts needed, and find someone, or several
someones, foolish enough to run the other end of the saw.
Joe
Patriarch wrote:
> Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in news:42d647c6$0$18648$14726298
> @news.sunsite.dk:
>
>
>>Patriarch wrote:
>>
>>>Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in
>>>news:[email protected]:
>>>
>>><snip>
>>>
>>>>I have managed to acquire a potential benchtop. Live oak slab 5" x
>>>>24" x 5'. Just need to trim the ends and design a support structure
>>>>to hold it. I'm ignoring the 'how to lift it to the top of the legs'
>>>>for now. Joe
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Couple of stumps would look cool...
>>
>>The one big piece available weighs about 10,000 lbs.4'+/- across and
>>10'+ tall. I do have a 6' crosscut saw that might be able to cut it, if
>>there was a way to set it on blocks to do the cutting, assuming I could
>>last long enough for the 4 cuts needed, and find someone, or several
>>someones, foolish enough to run the other end of the saw.
>>Joe
>>
>
>
> Block & tackle? Forklift? Chain saw? Levers?
>
> You visit here and wonder if you could find a few fools? Not been paying
> close attention, have you?
>
> Patriarch,
> one of many...
Well, it's been raining a bit lately, and the Lull, rough terrain
forklift, sinks in so far when it tried to pick it up last time it
couldn't move. Maybe when it dries out a little.
Half rounds from the trunk to support the top, sounds interesting.
Joe
"shooter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Woodcraft has this model
> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3931
> for about $165.00. I need to be able to go up against a wall like this
> one does. Has anyone used this or has another option I should
> consider?
>
> Thanks in advance.
I got very similar for a lot less money from Grizzly. I can do chin-ups on
the 12" brackets. IIRC earlier this year I bought 4-4" standards, 12-12"
brackets, and 4-18" brackets for about $110.00 delivered.
Look here
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H2535
On Mon, 11 Jul 2005 09:01:50 -0500, the opaque Patriarch
<[email protected]> clearly wrote:
>"shooter" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Woodcraft has this model
>> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3931
>> for about $165.00. I need to be able to go up against a wall like this
>> one does. Has anyone used this or has another option I should
>> consider?
>>
>
>How many tubafors can you buy for $165?
'boutahunnert.
---------------------------------------------------
I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol.
---------------------------------------------------
http://www.diversify.com Refreshing Graphic Design
"shooter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Woodcraft has this model
> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3931
> for about $165.00. I need to be able to go up against a wall like this
> one does. Has anyone used this or has another option I should
> consider?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Ronnie Aldrich
> Birmingham, Alabama
>
Some extra information about this rack system
This is the same type supports that the telephone companies use in their
manholes and offices to support cables.
They will hold a huge amount of weight and they use all different sizes of
the brackets, from the short 6" ones to
the longer 16 and longer.
You might check at any of the storerooms around your area and talk with any
of the foreman there to see if you
can scrounge through their metal scrap bins to salvage some of the thrown
away hangers and uprights.
Once they pull them out.. they are tossed and usually a scrap company comes
by once in a while and picks up
the scrap metal to get it out of their way
Some of the racks may have to be cleaned, but usually the galvanized metal
is in very good condition and can be salvaged and
easily used.
A little looking around your local area's may get you a rack system like
this for the price of a little time only
With that in mind, check with some of the salvage yards also, They may be
one that is picking up the scrap matal and will
probably sell it by the pound rather cheeply
CC
"Stephen M" <[email protected]> writes:
>Easy, if you design with a front support. This means that long boards need
>to be threaded in from the end or at an angle. This would not be possible if
>your lumber rack were on a 12' wall.
>
>Would a 2x4 handle a fully cantilevered design? If it did how deep you you
>make your verticle members? A 2-by on the flat would not have enough meat in
>front of the fastener for my taste. Idunno, but it sounds like a reasonable
>appllication for steel to me.
When I built my shed, I doubled up the wall studs on one
wall (at 0', 4' and 8'). I notched the inside faces of each paired stud
with a 3/4" deep by 3.5" high by 3.5" wide notch. Insert an 18" length of
two-by-four, secure with a couple of 16d sinkers and you have a
cantilevered lumber storage rack. Have three levels, at 1' from
the floor, 2.5' and 4' from the floor. Each holds an amazing amount
of lumber.
>
>-Steve
>
>"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:ZjwAe.162164$nG6.108942@attbi_s22...
>> Why in the world would you pay big bucks for one when you can build your
>own
>> out of 5 or 6 2x4's and scrap lumber for 10 bucks or so??
>
>
"Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:42d2b6f3$0$18650$1> >
Can't remember where I saw it on the web, but I built a rack out of 3
> > vertical 2x4s attached to the floor & ceiling joists. 3' apart (like
wall
> > studs).
> >
> > Drilled 1" holes, 16" apart, in the edges at 5 degree angle (pointing
up -
> > prevents stock from slipping off) and slipped 12" lengths of 1" pipe
into
> > the holes
> >
> > Ken
> >
> >
> Was this plumbing pipe or EMT? I seem to recall one using EMT but can't
> find it again. I need a rack but only want to make it once.
I used iron pipe, per the instructions. Just checked and it's 7/8" od 5/8"
id
"shooter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Woodcraft has this model
> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3931
> for about $165.00. I need to be able to go up against a wall like this
> one does. Has anyone used this or has another option I should
> consider?
Can't remember where I saw it on the web, but I built a rack out of 3
vertical 2x4s attached to the floor & ceiling joists. 3' apart (like wall
studs).
Drilled 1" holes, 16" apart, in the edges at 5 degree angle (pointing up -
prevents stock from slipping off) and slipped 12" lengths of 1" pipe into
the holes
Ken
"shooter" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Woodcraft has this model
> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3931
> for about $165.00. I need to be able to go up against a wall like this
> one does. Has anyone used this or has another option I should
> consider?
>
How many tubafors can you buy for $165?
Patriarch
Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> Thanks, time to get out the crowbar, small, and start organizing the
> shed. Then I work on the upgrade from shop to studio.
The upgrade from shop to studio is one of the mind, the heart, and your
skillsets.
Some of the better artists I've met have much more modest facilities than
I.
Patriarch,
working on it...
Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> I have managed to acquire a potential benchtop. Live oak slab 5" x
> 24" x 5'. Just need to trim the ends and design a support structure
> to hold it. I'm ignoring the 'how to lift it to the top of the legs'
> for now. Joe
>
Couple of stumps would look cool...
Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in news:42d647c6$0$18648$14726298
@news.sunsite.dk:
> Patriarch wrote:
>> Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>> <snip>
>>
>>>I have managed to acquire a potential benchtop. Live oak slab 5" x
>>>24" x 5'. Just need to trim the ends and design a support structure
>>>to hold it. I'm ignoring the 'how to lift it to the top of the legs'
>>>for now. Joe
>>>
>>
>>
>> Couple of stumps would look cool...
> The one big piece available weighs about 10,000 lbs.4'+/- across and
> 10'+ tall. I do have a 6' crosscut saw that might be able to cut it, if
> there was a way to set it on blocks to do the cutting, assuming I could
> last long enough for the 4 cuts needed, and find someone, or several
> someones, foolish enough to run the other end of the saw.
> Joe
>
Block & tackle? Forklift? Chain saw? Levers?
You visit here and wonder if you could find a few fools? Not been paying
close attention, have you?
Patriarch,
one of many...
Why in the world would you pay big bucks for one when you can build your own
out of 5 or 6 2x4's and scrap lumber for 10 bucks or so??
"Stephen M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32144&cat=1,43326
>
> The supported brackets eat too much space, but it 14" depth is enough for
> your application, then item C (14" double bracket) could get you a similar
> system. I ddi not do the math on the woodcraft set, but the individual
> pieces are considerably more expensive than the LV. Personally I would
> rather have a shelving system with all the same depth shelves.
>
>
> -Steve
>
>
>
> "shooter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Woodcraft has this model
> > http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3931
> > for about $165.00. I need to be able to go up against a wall like this
> > one does. Has anyone used this or has another option I should
> > consider?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Ronnie Aldrich
> > Birmingham, Alabama
> >
>
>
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ZjwAe.162164$nG6.108942@attbi_s22...
> Why in the world would you pay big bucks for one when you can build your
> own
> out of 5 or 6 2x4's and scrap lumber for 10 bucks or so??
For me the 5 or 6 2 x's would cost $26. The steel ones from Grizzly are
about $110 but you get adjustability with out needing tools to move the
brackets and the brackets are only about 1" tall where the 2x4's are taking
up much more space at 3.5" per bracket. With 4 shelves you loose 14 inches
of storage height vs. 4". For me that was worth the price difference.
I fastened a 1 x 4 to every other stud on one wall in my shop then
drilled holes to accept short pieces of 1/2" pipe. Drilled through
the 1 x 4, drywall, and about 1-1/2" into the stud. Stuck short
pieces of 1/2" pipe in and loaded it up. Drilled the holes at a
slight angle so to precamber for the load.
cost very little, works very well.
Wall has not fallen in yet.
Frank
On 11 Jul 2005 06:42:47 -0700, "shooter"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Woodcraft has this model
>http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3931
>for about $165.00. I need to be able to go up against a wall like this
>one does. Has anyone used this or has another option I should
>consider?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Ronnie Aldrich
>Birmingham, Alabama
I built mine out of 2x4's and liquid nails etc. I braced the shelves with
2x4". My shelves are 2 feet a part and 18 inches deep. I have 4 shelves
which is adequate for me. Not bad for 10 or 12 bucks. Any scraps that I
needed I got by diving into a contractors dumpster in our subdivision.
There's a bunch of houses being built around here. I also got some nice
cherry and oak boards out of em.
"Ken Johnsen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "shooter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Woodcraft has this model
> > http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3931
> > for about $165.00. I need to be able to go up against a wall like this
> > one does. Has anyone used this or has another option I should
> > consider?
>
> Can't remember where I saw it on the web, but I built a rack out of 3
> vertical 2x4s attached to the floor & ceiling joists. 3' apart (like wall
> studs).
>
> Drilled 1" holes, 16" apart, in the edges at 5 degree angle (pointing up -
> prevents stock from slipping off) and slipped 12" lengths of 1" pipe into
> the holes
>
> Ken
>
>
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32144&cat=1,43326
The supported brackets eat too much space, but it 14" depth is enough for
your application, then item C (14" double bracket) could get you a similar
system. I ddi not do the math on the woodcraft set, but the individual
pieces are considerably more expensive than the LV. Personally I would
rather have a shelving system with all the same depth shelves.
-Steve
"shooter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Woodcraft has this model
> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3931
> for about $165.00. I need to be able to go up against a wall like this
> one does. Has anyone used this or has another option I should
> consider?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Ronnie Aldrich
> Birmingham, Alabama
>
Easy, if you design with a front support. This means that long boards need
to be threaded in from the end or at an angle. This would not be possible if
your lumber rack were on a 12' wall.
Would a 2x4 handle a fully cantilevered design? If it did how deep you you
make your verticle members? A 2-by on the flat would not have enough meat in
front of the fastener for my taste. Idunno, but it sounds like a reasonable
appllication for steel to me.
-Steve
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ZjwAe.162164$nG6.108942@attbi_s22...
> Why in the world would you pay big bucks for one when you can build your
own
> out of 5 or 6 2x4's and scrap lumber for 10 bucks or so??
Scott,
It sounds as though you have a you have a good design that works well for
you. I was certainly incorrect to question the carrying capacity of a
cantelievered 2x4.
However, the point of post was to refute wzhat was suggested by Dave's post
that it was silly to invest in a steel rack system. I was trying to point
out that a 2x4-based system is not the best choice in some cases.
In my shop, by lumber storage rack is above my jointer. I have less than 3
verticle feet of wall space to work with. Also, I have finished walls
(Sheetrock). Unless I tore apart the walls, the verticles would be proud of
the wall. It may sound silly, but an extra 3"x10' is a footprint which I
would rather not surrrender in my shop.
-Steve
"Scott Lurndal" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Stephen M" <[email protected]> writes:
> >Easy, if you design with a front support. This means that long boards
need
> >to be threaded in from the end or at an angle. This would not be possible
if
> >your lumber rack were on a 12' wall.
> >
> >Would a 2x4 handle a fully cantilevered design? If it did how deep you
you
> >make your verticle members? A 2-by on the flat would not have enough meat
in
> >front of the fastener for my taste. Idunno, but it sounds like a
reasonable
> >appllication for steel to me.
>
> When I built my shed, I doubled up the wall studs on one
> wall (at 0', 4' and 8'). I notched the inside faces of each paired stud
> with a 3/4" deep by 3.5" high by 3.5" wide notch. Insert an 18" length
of
> two-by-four, secure with a couple of 16d sinkers and you have a
> cantilevered lumber storage rack. Have three levels, at 1' from
> the floor, 2.5' and 4' from the floor. Each holds an amazing amount
> of lumber.
>
> >
> >-Steve
> >
> >"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:ZjwAe.162164$nG6.108942@attbi_s22...
> >> Why in the world would you pay big bucks for one when you can build
your
> >own
> >> out of 5 or 6 2x4's and scrap lumber for 10 bucks or so??
> >
> >
"CC" <lamp dot [email protected]> wrote:
>
>"shooter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Woodcraft has this model
>> http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3931
>> for about $165.00. I need to be able to go up against a wall like this
>> one does. Has anyone used this or has another option I should
>> consider?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Ronnie Aldrich
>> Birmingham, Alabama
>>
>
>Some extra information about this rack system
>This is the same type supports that the telephone companies use in their
>manholes and offices to support cables.
>They will hold a huge amount of weight and they use all different sizes of
>the brackets, from the short 6" ones to
>the longer 16 and longer.
>You might check at any of the storerooms around your area and talk with any
>of the foreman there to see if you
>can scrounge through their metal scrap bins to salvage some of the thrown
>away hangers and uprights.
>Once they pull them out.. they are tossed and usually a scrap company comes
>by once in a while and picks up
>the scrap metal to get it out of their way
>Some of the racks may have to be cleaned, but usually the galvanized metal
>is in very good condition and can be salvaged and
>easily used.
>A little looking around your local area's may get you a rack system like
>this for the price of a little time only
>With that in mind, check with some of the salvage yards also, They may be
>one that is picking up the scrap matal and will
>probably sell it by the pound rather cheeply
>CC
I work for the local telco, I park 20ft from the metal scrap bin. In
nine years I've scavenged a grand total of four of the longer wall
straps. Two were bent, all were mangled on the ends when they were
driven into the ground as temporary supports while splicing damaged
cables. I've found two short 4" brackets - I think someone cleaned out
their truck and tossed what they never used. This is an excellent
system, but once installed in a manhole or cable vault, it stays in
place just about forever. I got mine from Lee Valley. Prices are
about the same at the various woodworking catalogs, but check prices
on shipping - these are VERY heavy.
If you get this system, take the time to level the brackets. I used a
straight edge across three or four at a time, first at the wall, and
again near the tips. At the wall, loosen the lag bolts and slide the
straps up or down, retighten the lag bolts. The angles on the
brackets can vary a bit, making a difference of a 1/4" or more at the
tip. Find the high tips, and lightly grind the back bottom edge where
it presses against the wall strap. Failure to establish a plane across
the brackets WILL result in wavy lumber.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I got very similar for a lot less money from Grizzly. I can do chin-ups
on
> the 12" brackets. IIRC earlier this year I bought 4-4" standards, 12-12"
> brackets, and 4-18" brackets for about $110.00 delivered.
Don't know about cost or quality, but I've seen similar brackets available
at Home Depot. As a matter of fact, the HD I go to was using them for some
of their racks.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> I got very similar for a lot less money from Grizzly. I can do chin-ups
> on
>> the 12" brackets. IIRC earlier this year I bought 4-4" standards, 12-12"
>> brackets, and 4-18" brackets for about $110.00 delivered.
>
> Don't know about cost or quality, but I've seen similar brackets available
> at Home Depot. As a matter of fact, the HD I go to was using them for some
> of their racks.
The Grizzly ones that I bought are very heavy duty. The steel is 3/16"
thick.