I am to the point of installing 3/4" MDF vertical sides into the two drawer spaces
below my new workbench. After installation the I.D. will be about 24" and each of the
6 or so drawers on the left side would be about 23" O.D. There will be only two
drawers in the right side opening.
How do I measure for the positioning/installation of the drawer slides such that each
drawer will be dead nuts level and all lined up with their fronts vertical?
I am considering clamping the two sides together and drilling very tiny holes in each
MDF side before they are installed. Each hole would be the location of the first
screw in each slide.
Perhaps I should buy the slides first so I can see what I am up against.
Is the above the best way to do this? If not, I seek your experienced comments and
help.
TKS,
Hoyt W.
Robert Bonomi wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]> wrote:
> >I am to the point of installing 3/4" MDF vertical sides into the two
> >drawer spaces
> >below my new workbench. After installation the I.D. will be about 24"
> >and each of the
>
> I.D. ?? obviously not 'inside diameter'.
>
> >6 or so drawers on the left side would be about 23" O.D. There will be only two
> >drawers in the right side opening.
>
> same question, re: O.D obviously not 'outside diameter'
>
> >
> >How do I measure for the positioning/installation of the drawer slides
> >such that each
> >drawer will be dead nuts level and all lined up with their fronts vertical?
>
> I use a tool known as a 'level'. <grin>
>
> First, make sure that where the workbench is sitting is level -- few things
> more -annoying- than installing the drawers 'level to the world', and then
> discovering that the floor is crooked.
>
> Then, put the level at the line of the drawer, and mark on both -faces- where
> the level point is.
>
> then apply the level to the inside of the frame, aligned with the mark on
> the face. that line is the screw-line for the slides.
>
> >
> >I am considering clamping the two sides together and drilling very tiny
> >holes in each
> >MDF side before they are installed. Each hole would be the location of the first
> >screw in each slide.
> >
> >Perhaps I should buy the slides first so I can see what I am up against.
>
> *good* idea! :)
>
> Most slide mechanisms have some 'adjustment' capability (i.e. 'elongated'
> screw holes), so you can tweak to fit.
Robert, I should have given my usage of I.D. and O.D. in this instance. My intention
was that I.D. = interior dimension and O.D. = outside dimension. That may be contrary
to common usage, but I do not know.
Thank you for your helpful comments.
Hoyt W.
Robert Bonomi wrote:
<snip,snip>
> Note: if you have already built the drawers, you'll have to measure closely
> and then shop carefully for the slide hardware you will use. standard slides
> need 1/2" +/- 1/32" for each side. If you're under that clearance, shopping
> will be a challenge. If over it, obviously you can shim.
>
> Also, several places -- e.g. (without looking) Rockler, Lee Valley, etc. -- sell
> jigs/templates for lining up the screw points for drawer slides. I've never
> been able to justify the price, for _my_ level of use.
Thank you Robert. I ordered 7 Accuride series 3832, 24" Slides and the appropriate
Jig it from Rocker last Thursday. They should arrive about the time I finish
installing the 3/4" MDF vertical side supports. I agree with your previous suggestion
to just use a level. I have a 24" wooden one which will be good enough for this
application. I have not yet built the drawers. One step at a time is the way I am
approaching this project.
Hoyt W.
Robert Bonomi wrote:
<snip,snip>
> Note: if you have already built the drawers, you'll have to measure closely
> and then shop carefully for the slide hardware you will use. standard slides
> need 1/2" +/- 1/32" for each side. If you're under that clearance, shopping
> will be a challenge. If over it, obviously you can shim.
>
> Also, several places -- e.g. (without looking) Rockler, Lee Valley, etc. -- sell
> jigs/templates for lining up the screw points for drawer slides. I've never
> been able to justify the price, for _my_ level of use.
Thank you Robert. I ordered 7 Accuride series 3832, 24" Slides and the appropriate
Jig it from Rocker last Thursday. They should arrive about the time I finish
installing the 3/4" MDF vertical side supports. I agree with your previous suggestion
to just use a level. I have a 24" wooden one which will be good enough for this
application. I have not yet built the drawers. One step at a time is the way I am
approaching this project.
Hoyt W.
In article <[email protected]>,
Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]> wrote:
>Robert Bonomi wrote:
>
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >I am to the point of installing 3/4" MDF vertical sides into the two
>> >drawer spaces
>> >below my new workbench. After installation the I.D. will be about 24"
>> >and each of the
>>
>> I.D. ?? obviously not 'inside diameter'.
>>
>> >6 or so drawers on the left side would be about 23" O.D. There will
>be only two
>> >drawers in the right side opening.
>>
>> same question, re: O.D obviously not 'outside diameter'
>>
>> >
>> >How do I measure for the positioning/installation of the drawer slides
>> >such that each
>> >drawer will be dead nuts level and all lined up with their fronts vertical?
>>
>> I use a tool known as a 'level'. <grin>
>>
>> First, make sure that where the workbench is sitting is level -- few things
>> more -annoying- than installing the drawers 'level to the world', and then
>> discovering that the floor is crooked.
>>
>> Then, put the level at the line of the drawer, and mark on both -faces- where
>> the level point is.
>>
>> then apply the level to the inside of the frame, aligned with the mark on
>> the face. that line is the screw-line for the slides.
>>
>> >
>> >I am considering clamping the two sides together and drilling very tiny
>> >holes in each
>> >MDF side before they are installed. Each hole would be the location
>of the first
>> >screw in each slide.
>> >
>> >Perhaps I should buy the slides first so I can see what I am up against.
>>
>> *good* idea! :)
>>
>> Most slide mechanisms have some 'adjustment' capability (i.e. 'elongated'
>> screw holes), so you can tweak to fit.
>
>Robert, I should have given my usage of I.D. and O.D. in this instance.
>My intention
>was that I.D. = interior dimension and O.D. = outside dimension. That
>may be contrary
>to common usage, but I do not know.
I dunno about 'common' -- First time _I've_ encountered those abbreviations
other than dealing with "round stuff". May speak more to what I've been
exposed (or *not* exposed) to. <grin>
Anyway, I wasn't getting anywhere trying to make sense of things, even
when I guessed inside/outside 'something', cuz the 'outside' measure
was smaller than the 'inside' one.
*NOW* I realize they were measures on two _different_ things, with the
'outside'-measured item fitting _inside_ the 'inside'-measured one. And
all becomes clear.
Note: if you have already built the drawers, you'll have to measure closely
and then shop carefully for the slide hardware you will use. standard slides
need 1/2" +/- 1/32" for each side. If you're under that clearance, shopping
will be a challenge. If over it, obviously you can shim.
Also, several places -- e.g. (without looking) Rockler, Lee Valley, etc. -- sell
jigs/templates for lining up the screw points for drawer slides. I've never
been able to justify the price, for _my_ level of use.
In article <[email protected]>,
Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am to the point of installing 3/4" MDF vertical sides into the two
>drawer spaces
>below my new workbench. After installation the I.D. will be about 24"
>and each of the
I.D. ?? obviously not 'inside diameter'.
>6 or so drawers on the left side would be about 23" O.D. There will be only two
>drawers in the right side opening.
same question, re: O.D obviously not 'outside diameter'
>
>How do I measure for the positioning/installation of the drawer slides
>such that each
>drawer will be dead nuts level and all lined up with their fronts vertical?
I use a tool known as a 'level'. <grin>
First, make sure that where the workbench is sitting is level -- few things
more -annoying- than installing the drawers 'level to the world', and then
discovering that the floor is crooked.
Then, put the level at the line of the drawer, and mark on both -faces- where
the level point is.
then apply the level to the inside of the frame, aligned with the mark on
the face. that line is the screw-line for the slides.
>
>I am considering clamping the two sides together and drilling very tiny
>holes in each
>MDF side before they are installed. Each hole would be the location of the first
>screw in each slide.
>
>Perhaps I should buy the slides first so I can see what I am up against.
*good* idea! :)
Most slide mechanisms have some 'adjustment' capability (i.e. 'elongated'
screw holes), so you can tweak to fit.
On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 21:52:20 -0500, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Robert, I should have given my usage of I.D. and O.D. in this instance. My intention
>was that I.D. = interior dimension and O.D. = outside dimension. That may be contrary
>to common usage, but I do not know.
>
>Thank you for your helpful comments.
>
>Hoyt W.
I understood ya....