I am sure I'll catch all kinds of heck for this idea, but here it is.
Brush on stain and leave modestly wet over night. Mostly, but not
completely dry to the touch the next morning. Then wipe down with
acetone to remove excess stain. Acetone drys very fast. Sand and clear
coat.
Well it might be stupid, but I am going to try it. I need the clear
coat to prevent tear out so I CNC machine the next step of the project.
Clear coat doesn't start to help with that until its been applied for
nearly a week. After machining clear coat again if desired. I could go
to an epoxy clear coat and machine in 24hrs, but epoxy tends to be
negatively affected by minor heat during the machining process. Can't
run liquid coolant on a wood project. LOL.
You guys should have fun with this one.
On Saturday, September 7, 2019 at 9:56:46 AM UTC-7, Bob La Londe wrote:
> I am sure I'll catch all kinds of heck for this idea, but here it is.
>
> Brush on stain and leave modestly wet over night. Mostly, but not
> completely dry to the touch the next morning. Then wipe down with
> acetone to remove excess stain. Acetone drys very fast. Sand and clear
> coat.
>
> Well it might be stupid, but I am going to try it.
Have you considered a polyester resin base for the stain? You can
apply it wet, leave it wet overnight, and then... remove
excess with squeegee and/or rags, spritz with
the part B hardener and it firms up fast.
The industrial folk have UV-curing resins that will set up fast on
demand, too.
The acetone will remove stain from the surface, but might also
dissolve sap, and/or leave streaks that a simple clean rag wouldn't.
I chose the wrong wood for a stirring stick, for contact cement, and
it bled red into my glue.
On 9/7/2019 9:56 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> I am sure I'll catch all kinds of heck for this idea, but here it is.
>
> Brush on stain and leave modestly wet over night. Mostly, but not
> completely dry to the touch the next morning. Then wipe down with
> acetone to remove excess stain. Acetone drys very fast. Sand and clear
> coat.
>
> Well it might be stupid, but I am going to try it. I need the clear
> coat to prevent tear out so I CNC machine the next step of the project.
> Clear coat doesn't start to help with that until its been applied for
> nearly a week. After machining clear coat again if desired. I could go
> to an epoxy clear coat and machine in 24hrs, but epoxy tends to be
> negatively affected by minor heat during the machining process. Can't
> run liquid coolant on a wood project. LOL.
>
> You guys should have fun with this one.
>
>
>
>
Well, the wipe dry only sorta worked. It "looks" bone dry about 15
seconds after the acetone wipe, but it still feels like their is some
moisture in it to the touch 2 hrs later. I suppose if I'd set the
pieces out in the sun this time of year they would have dried faster. LOL.
I wonder if I can get some SolarZ based stain. HA!